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A. Ellen Stanton 



MY LIFE IN PARIS 
FIFTY YE ARS AGO 

From the Journal of 

A. ELLEN STANTON 

PARIS, 1868-1869 




1922 

The Stratford Co., Publishers 

Boston, Massachusetts 



5 s 



Copyright, 1922 

The STRATFORD CO., Publishers 

Boston, Mass. 



FEB -1 1S22 

Alpine Press, Boston, Mass., U, S. A. 

©CU653717 



My Pupils 

in 
French 

this book is affectionately 
dedicated 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 

A. Ellen Stanton Frontispiece 

Monsieur Jean Jacques Leopold Chevalier ''Pal" ... 3 

Madame Chevalier 3 

Master Robert Olyphant and His Tutor, Mr. Louis Lampman . 4 

The Louvre 11 

Prince Leon Mniszech 38 

The Empress Eugenie . 42 

Rev. Monsieur Bercier 56 

The Louis Phillippe Clock 82 

Mr. and Mrs. Griswold, Little Annie and Mrs. Gleason . . 96 

Mr. Mong Shaw Loo 106 

The Column Vendome Ill 

Mong Shaw Loo, M. D 115 

Master Robert Olyphant (Monsieur Bobe) 2 Photos . . . 136 

Miss Ellie Loise Stanton (Mile. Hellie) 147 

The Prince Imperial 148 

Mrs. Hubbard .184 

Napoleon HI 196 

Dr. Dodd 197 

Mrs. Dr. Dodd 197 

Hotel de Yille 210 

Mr. Samuel Stanton (Samu) . , 222 

Mrs. Samuel Stanton (Louey) . . . . . • . 222 

Monsieur Laboulaye 263 

The Cocotte • 277 

The Sainte Chapelle . . .353 

Mr. Bingham 357 

Dr. Raymond 363 

Dr. Bernette 385 

The Arc de Triomphe 423 



'^ NULLA DIES SINE LINE A" 

1867 

Wednesday, October 3 

Left London this morning at 7.20 with Louis, Cecil, and 
Ellie for Paris. The boys are to remain in Paris until the 
Exposition closes, but Ellie and I during the winter. 

After bidding good-by to No. 17, we started in a cab for 
The Ludgate Hill Station, Sam accompanying us. We had a 
carriage quite to ourselves and enjoyed the ride to Dover ex- 
ceedingly, as the morning was bright and beautiful and the 
country lovely. "We passed many country seats, and at Canter- 
bury had a very good view of the Cathedral. 

The train stopped a few minutes at Fair Oaks, and Cecil 
made use of his historical knowledge by reminding us that it 
was at this place that Jack Cade and nine of his followers were 
hung. We regaled ourselves on sandwiches which had been 
put up for us with cakes and fruit which we found very nice. 
Louis ate sparingly in anticipation of his voyage across the 
Channel. 

Arrived at Dover, we left the train which took us to the 
pier and embarked for Calais. Our sail of just two hours was 
delightful and calm, and none of us were seasick except Louis, 
who was a victim during the last half hour. I fled from place 
to place on deck as travelling companions in my immediate 
vicinity threatened to disturb my ecLuanimity and at last I 
became quite oblivious to the sights and sounds on deck and 

[I] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

"leaned over the vessers side/' to watch the beautiful colors 
in the water. 

The chalk cliffs of Dover at last grew dim in the distance, 
and for a little time we were out of sight of land. Then the 
shores of la telle France came into view, and we had our first 
glimpse of the continent of Europe. I found Louis stretched 
out on a settee as white as a chalk cliff, with dark blue rings 
around his eyes. So Ellie and I strapped up our travelling 
wrappings to the best of our ability as the steamer arrived at 
Calais. Our baggage, which had been registered and there- 
fore required no looking after from us, we saw promenading 
off on the shoulders of a porter. We soon followed and were 
seated on the train for Paris, where we arrived at about six 
'clock. There was a young lady in the carriage with us who 
reminded me very much of Marianne Tasker. We found Mr. 
Griswold, as calm and collected as usual, awaiting us at the 
station. Our baggage passed lightly through the hands of the 
custom-house officials and was soon capping the climax of the 
cab in which we were seated. We first drove to the Hotel de 
VAthenSe to give two of our return excursion tickets into the 
hands of Mr. Rand, who, with his wife and sister, is soon to 
return to London. As we waited in the cab at the curbstone 
of the hotel while Mr. Gleason took up our tickets, one of the 
g argons came out to see if we wished to come in. I could not 
understand the gibberish, and responded to that effect in Eng- 
lish, at which he went away smiling. From the Hotel de 
I'Athenee we drove to No. 35 Bue de VArc de Triomphe, our 
home for the next several months, passing on our way the new 
Opera House, the Grand Hotel and the Arc de Triomphe. We 
received a pleasant welcome from Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier, as we were ushered into the salon. Dinner was 
waiting, and Mr. Griswold accepted Madame 's invitation to 

[2] 




3 
'o 
a 
o 

V 

J 

0) 

2u i 




MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

stop and dine with us. We were weary, and the clean sheets 
of the curtained bed looked very inviting. Our chamber is 
a prettily carpeted room, furnished with a plate-glass mirror 
door, a mahogany table, covered with green baize with a gilt- 
stamped border, two large stuffed easy-chairs and two small 
chairs covered with blue damask to match the bed and window 
curtains. The windows, which are surrounded by a balus- 
trade, open in the middle like doors and extend from the 
ceiling nearly to the floor. These windows have white muslin 
curtains fastened to them. Over the low marble mantel is a 
handsome gilt mirror reaching to the ceiling and a little 
French clock, chariot-shaped, gilt, and under a glass case. A 
bronze man reclines on his elbow with a book at his feet. He 
has an absorbed expression of countenance as if he took no 
note of time and was quite unaware that the wheels had ceased 
turning at twenty minutes past four precisely. The usual 
toilet apparatus completes the tout ensemble. There are three 
doors, one a closet door which is papered like the walls and 
when closed is hardly perceptible. The opposite one leads into 
Madame Chevalier's chamber and is at present bolted; the 
other opens into the entry. 

Friday, October 4 

Rose this morning just in season to be ready for cafe, 
which is served at eight o'clock. Louis and Cecil went to the 
''Exposition," but Ellie and I remained to unpack, arrange 
our wardrobes, and get rested. There are two boarders here 
besides ourselves, both Americans, one a lawyer, the other a 
divinity student, though as yet, I do not know which is which, 
as neither of them looks especially "diabolique" or divine, 
probably not having been in their chosen professions long 
enough to have acquired the accompanying expression. Such 

[3] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

a jabbering of French is quite confusing to one whose only 
accomplishment in the language consists of Je ne comprends 
pas, but it is entertaining to watch the gestures, and hear 
them all laugh at something funny which has been said. M. 
Chevalier assigned our lessons this evening ; the verb avoir and 
a fable from La Fontaine, ^'La Cigale et la Fourni," which 
he wishes us to learn mot pour mot. As I sat writing in the 
salle a manger, whither I had removed from the salon, as 
Madame had callers, I felt an arm around my neck and a 
cold cheek against mine that proved to belong to Mrs. Gleason, 
who had kindly called. I was delighted to see her, and she 
remained till it began to grow dark. 

Saturday, October 5 

A new boarder to-day, Mrs. Hubbard from Chicago, U. S., 
a young lady who intends to remain some months to acquire 
the language. She is an acquaintance of Mr. Farnham's, the 
lawyer, who sits opposite me at table. Mr. Lampman, the 
divinity-student, Madame informed me, was the first scholar 
in his class at Yale College and is a friend of Mr. Farnham's. 
He amuses us all with his efforts to speak French. I can 
understand him better than I can the natives. He has been 
here only a fortnight, and Madame says the progress he has 
already made is truly remarkable. We have cafe at eight, 
dejeuner at half -past eleven, and diner at half -past six o'clock. 
Madame sits at the head of the table with Mr. Lampman on her 
right and Mr. Farnham on her left hand. Monsieur Chevalier 
sits directly opposite her with Ellie and me on either side. 
Madame helps to the food, carves the meat, etc. The table, ex- 
cept at cafe, is always set with four large decanters, two con- 
taining water, and two wine, while our glasses are filled with 
enough of each to counteract the effect of the other. Monsieur 

[4] 




Master Robert Olyphant 

and his 

Tutor, Mr. Louis Lampman 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

cannot speak English, and it is funny to hear him attempt it. 
He calls Ellie Mademoiselle Ilellie, but has not got the h-ang of 
the rest of our names, though he sometimes succeeds in saying 
'^CeeQul." 

This P. M. we started for the Exposition but only reached 
Bue Chaillot, where the Griswolds reside, and concluded that 
it was too late to go farther. Mr. and Mrs. Griswold were out, 
but Mrs. Gleason was at home. Little Annie was just waking 
from her noonday nap, and is as pretty and sweet as ever. Mrs. 
Gleason showed us over their apartments, which are very 
elegant. 

Sunday, Odtoher 6 

Attended church to-day at the Bue de Berri. The services 
were conducted in English in the Episcopalian form. The 
text was the fifth commandment, and the sermon was especially 
for children. The minister impressed upon them the duty of 
honoring their parents and the reasons why they should do so. 
Told a story of a king who had died suddenly without making 
any disposition of his kingdom. His three sons wished to 
succeed him, and after much quarreling and disputing, it was 
decided to set the dead body of the father up as a target, and 
the one who succeeded in shooting him through the heart was 
to be his successor. A neighboring prince was invited to be 
umpire. The eldest aimed the first shot, but the arrow, glanc- 
ing to one side, did not reach the heart. The second son shot 
with no better success. When it came to the turn of the young- 
est son, he refused to shoot his arrow, saying he would rather 
beg his bread in a strange land and die far from his home 
and kindred, than harm one hair on the head of his dead 
father. The prince exclaimed, ''You alone have hit your 
father's heart ! It beat with love for you when alive, and you 

[5] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

have honored him ; the kingdom is yours ! ' ' There is a Congre- 
gational service at the chapel in the afternoon, but it was 
rainy and cold, and I did not attend. Cecil went and walked 
home with Mr. Lampman, with whom he is delighted. Sunday 
is a high holiday in Paris. Madame Chevalier is a Catholic, 
attends Mass in the morning early and goes from there to the 
market. Had hifteck de cheval for one of the courses at dinner 
to-day, by special request. 

Monday, Odoher 7 

Have another new boarder, "an ancient maiden lady;'' 
I do not know her name but think she is Aunt Betsy Trotwood. 
She made her debut at the second breakfast, evidently having 
just arrived. She talks a good deal, both in French and in 
English, gesticulating much in the meantime. She came to 
dinner in lavender-colored kids, which she removed when she 
began to eat, but immediately resumed after the ceremony, 
wearing them during the evening. She appears very intelli- 
gent and evidently has been quite a traveller. However, she 
was rather officious in assisting Monsieur Chevalier in giving 
our French lessons as if he were not quite competent. Mr., Mrs., 
and Miss Rand called while we were at dinner. I had never 
met them before, as I was in Ireland when they were in Lon- 
don. Mr. Rand is suffering very much from neuralgia. If 
he is able, they intend to leave Paris early to-morrow morning 
for London and soon will return to America. Enjoyed their 
call very much and am sorry they leave so soon. Mrs. Rand says 
Mrs. Lewis, whom I met in London, will call very soon. It 
rained so fast and so continuously that I did not go out to-day. 
Monsieur Chevalier said we did tres Men in our recitation this 
morning. He has given us another fable and a review of the 
verb avoir. His attempts at English are very amusing ; he says 

[6] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

spoking" — but could get no farther, and we were 
left in suspense. 

Tuesday, October 8 

It has rained nearly all day. After dejeuner we took a 
carriage to the Exposition, which we entered at Porte Bapp, 
paying one franc each admittance. The price before ten 
o'clock A. M. is two francs, for the reason that if the Emperor 
has any friends whom he wishes to take in, he goes before that 
time, and the price is raised to prevent a crowd, so says 
Madame. We confined our observations principally to the 
picture department. I saw no landscapes that could compare 
with those of our own artists. Bierstadt's Rocky Mountains 
and Niagara Falls by Church are splendid pictures; the for- 
mer I had seen in Boston. There are two pictures represent- 
ing the fields of grain in autumn, which are beautiful. A 
face in another picture called "Sunday Morning" reminded 
me very much of Krissie Stratton 's with her innocent, demure 
expression and downcast eyes, as she seemed to be listening to 
the reading of the Bible. ''Queen Elizabeth's Toothache" 
represents Her Majesty holding her handkerchief to her face, 
surrounded by her courtiers, one of whom, an old man with no 
teeth to spare, has just undergone the operation of having one 
removed for the purpose of encouraging the Queen. ''Both 
Puzzled": Two figures, a man and a boy, the former looking 
like a country farmer, the other a country urchin. The ex- 
pressions are exceedingly natural. The man sits in a chair, 
evidently having been engaged in teaching the youngster's 
ideas how to shoot, and has thrust out a leg and leaned back 
in his chair with a look as if an idea had suddenly entered 
his own head, which was strikingly new to him. He is look- 
ing at the floor as if he did not see it, with a "That's so" 

[7] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

expression to his mouth. The boy stands near, scratching his 
round head, looking quite as puzzled but as if he were more 
used to it. The cause of their puzzled state is this: ''If once 
nothing is nothing, twice nothing must be something more than 
once nothing, and what is it ? " " The Sleeping Faun, ' ' a piece 
of sculpture by Miss Hosmer, is very fine. It was entertaining 
to see the representatives of so many nations walking about 
and talking in their own languages, French, English, Italians 
and Germans. Priests in their long black robes, or maybe 
monks, solemnlj^ walked about. In the Italian picture-gallery 
were several beautiful Madonnas, the coloring being exquisite, 
so mellow and soft and so perfectly blended. Though the 
Italian masters excel in most instances the American artists, 
they cannot approach them in landscapes. Bierstadt and 
Church in this, stand unrivalled. We remained several hours 
until we were mentally as well as physically tired, and after 
a short stroll in the grounds, admiring a cascade that rushed 
from the foot of a ruined tower into a beautiful little lake 
below, we started for a cab. We were overtaken by a hail- 
storm and detained for some time in a small building in which 
we sought shelter, where were models of different cities. Were 
beset as we left the grounds and approached a cab-stand, by 
numerous individuals who chattered French, whom I could 
understand sufficiently to know they were proffering their 
services to obtain a cab for us expecting in return a pour 
hoire. I shook my head and said, "Non, non," yet in spite 
of the negative, we were assisted into a cab, but when an open 
palm was extended I gave him to understand that I did not 
comprehend the motion, looking as puzzled as possible until it 
was good-naturedly withdrawn. 

Spent the time until dinner, which is at half-past six, 
upon my French lesson. Monsieur Chevalier is usually here at 

[8] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

lunch and dinner but never at cafe excepting Saturdays and 
Sundays. We usually sit nearly two hours at the table. To-day 
we had the courses in this order: First and always, soup; 
second, a leg of mutton; third, a sort of mashed cabbage; 
fourth, potatoes mashed and fried in the shape of doughnuts ; 
fifth, salad prepared in oil; sixth, and finally, grapes and 
pears. It has been cold and stormy. After dinner sat in the 
salon with the others for a little time, then recited my lesson 
and retired. 

Wednesday, Octoher 9 

Mr. Grriswold called just after cafe and invited us to dine 
with them. While I write, there is a man singing in the court. 
He has a fine voice, and I hear the clink of money upon the 
pavement, thrown from the window of some appreciative audi- 
tor. Went to No. 94 Eiie Chaillot directly after dejeuner and 
had a pleasant time at Mr. Griswold's. While there a Mr. 
and Mrs. Valentine called. Little Annie is bewitching and 
says a number of French words, making herself generally 
interesting. 

Studied all the morning upon my lesson of "the frog who 
wished to become as large as the ox." The children all went 
to the Exposition, but I remained indoors. Mrs. Sears called 
in the afternoon. She has been in Paris for the last six 
months, but soon returns to America. She goes to London 
in about a week. Recited my lesson this evening and Monsieur 
said, ''Tres hien.'^ 

Friday, October 11 

This morning was awakened by a street-crier: ^'Mourons 
pour les petits oiseauxV Studied until breakfast, after which 
we walked down the Champs Elysees to the Bue de Berri, 

[9] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

where we took an omnibus to the Exposition. Went into the 
American School-House which looks like those little edifices 
seen back in the country. Went through a western farmhouse 
which, with the schoolhouse, is a representation of the build- 
ings in the vicinity of Chicago. Saw the elegant Gobelin 
tapestries, which look something like paintings in oil, only 
far more beautiful. They are manufactured only for kings' 
houses and cannot be purchased at any price. Saw several of 
^sop 's fables illustrated in tapestry. The most elegant piece 
was ' ' Guido 's Morning. ' ' Another, very beautiful, represented 
a Fortune Teller, In the foreground was a little lake, and 
the reflections in the water were most perfectly represented; 
the shadow of a crow standing on the margin, and a rose 
which had evidently been carelessly thrown down by one of 
the young people seemed to be floating on the surface, its 
petals shattered by the fall. Called at the office of the "Red, 
White, and Blue," or, as it is called here, the "Rouge, Blanc, 
et Bleu/' to see Capt. Hudson. He was not there, but the 
young man in attendance went to look for him and was suc- 
cessful in finding him. Saw some of the natives weave India 
matting, a very interesting sight. In a jewelry department 
was a tiny box, out of which a brilliant bird flew, sang a 
sweet song, and then disappeared. 

Saturday, October 12 

Rainy and cold. Went to the Grand Hotel, EUie and I, to 
call upon Mrs. Lewis, Madame Chevalier very kindly going 
with us to the Arc de TriompJie to see us safely seated in an 
omnibus which passes the hotel. It was raining fast when we ar- 
rived there. Found No. 466, Mrs. Lewis's room, without much 
difficulty. Mr. Lewis was just opening the door, hat in hand. 
Mrs. Lewis had almost ceased to expect us, and it was raining 

[10] 




^^ 



The Louvre 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

so fast that we were quite undecided whether to go to the 
Louvre, as we had planned, or not. After sitting awhile we 
finally started with the intention of procuring a cab if it con- 
tinued, to rain. On our way out we looked into the reading- 
room and the dining-salon ; the latter is a most magnificent 
room, said to be the finest of the kind on the continent. We 
stood upon the platform for some time hoping to secure a 
close cab, but all of those which drove up had been previously 
engaged. We sent one of the several little gargons in bright 
brass buttons who stood about as appendages to the hotel, to 
secure one for us, but he was unsuccessful; said there were 
two-seated cabs and open carriages but none with four seats. 
We gave him a few sous for his trouble and started off under 
our umbrellas for No. 40, Rue Godot de Mauroi, where the 
buckwheat cakes, pumpkin pies, and gingerbread are manu- 
factured in real American style. Dined on broiled steak and 
buckwheat cakes and then started for the Louvre. Looked 
into the shop windows as we passed along the Rue de Rivoli. 
The dolls made a grand display. One window is fitted up as 
a salon where the dolls are having a reception, and their 
toilettes are in the extreme height of the Paris fashions. An- 
other window represents the interior of a church where the 
people are assembled to witness a marriage ceremony. The 
bride and bridegroom are kneeling before the altar, while a 
priest is performing the rite. A strip of silk drapery is held 
over their heads by two of the party mounted on chairs on 
either side. The bride is in the full glory of satin, lace and 
orange blossoms, and wears exactly the right expression. 

Arrived at the Louvre and left our umbrellas in charge 
of a man who wore a ^^ Napoleon chapeau and stood near a 
little office at the entrance. Went up the stairs, which were 
waxed, as well as the floors, which is the fashion here. Saw 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

more of the Gobelin tapestries. We were too tired after our 
long walk to enjoy the pictures very much. A Madonna by 
Murillo was inexpressibly beautiful. She stands upon a cres- 
cent surrounded by little angel-faces which peer from the 
clouds. We spent about three hours in looking at the works 
of the old masters, Michel Angelo, Raphael, Guido, and others 
too numerous to mention. An Italian Beggar Boy by Murillol 
was too true to life to be beautiful, as he sits ragged and 
dirty in the light of a window picking off lice. We arrived 
home in season to rest awhile before dinner. There is a new 
boarder, a young gentleman who looks very much as Colie 
Blodgett used to. Mademoiselle Barrett, the ancient maiden 
lady, who has not joined the rest of the family for several 
days, takes her meals in her room; remains in bed for the 
most part of the time, but is afflicted with an excellent appe- 
tite. After tea we went into the salon where I became inter- 
ested in the puzzle of ' ' the nine rings. ' ' Monsieur Chevalier at- 
tempted to initiate me into its mysteries, but got quite puzzled 
himself. He suggested that we have a game of "whisk" as Mr. 
Lampman, and soon after Mrs. Hubbard, came in. I was busy 
on the puzzle when Mr. Lampman said he would show me how 
it was done, which he did, although that puzzled me more than 
ever. Monsieur arranged our places for the "whisk"; Mrs. 
Hubbard and himself vis-a-vis, and Mr. Lampman and myself. 
Our side beat every time with one exception. We talked en- 
tirely in French, that is, the others did. 

Sunday, October 13 

Accompanied Mrs. Gleason and Mrs. Griswold to the Con- 
gregational chapel, 23 Bue Eoyale, near the Madeleine. Rev. 
Mr. Hart, an Englishman, was the officiating clergyman, and 
his discourse was very interesting and his prayers earnest, and 

[12] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

I enjoyed the services very much. We stepped into the in- 
terior of the beautiful Madeleine and remained for about half 
an hour to look upon the worshippers. A sergeant de ville 
stood within the entrance to preserve order and to keep the 
aisle clear. In the vicinity of a cross painted upon the floor 
in the center of the aisle sat a man holding a small brush wet 
with holy water, which was extended for the accommodation 
of all who wished to moisten their fingers and cross them- 
selves as they passed. Many fine looking men and women, as 
well as tiny children, went through this ceremony. Some of 
them had a devotional air as they slowly touched their fore- 
head, breast, left and right sides, at the same time moving 
their lips as if saying a prayer, while others dashed hastily 
through, looking about them most undevotionally. 

Dine at Mr. Griswold's and attended a Sunday School con- 
cert at the Rue de Berri. It was conducted in the American 
style and looked more homelike than anything I had seen before. 
The children sang the little hymns from the ' ' Golden Chain ' ' 
to its own golden music. ' ' I '11 rise up early in the morning, ' ' 
''Pilgrims we are to Canaan bound," ''There is no name so 
sweet on earth," "Saviour like a shepherd lead us," "Dear 
Saviour ever at my side," and "Nearer My God to Thee." 
There were short addresses by several American gentlemen. 
One tried to impress upon the minds of the children the im- 
portant fact that they would live forever. His language was 
somewhat metaphorical and too lofty for the children to com- 
prehend for the most part. The remarks of Eev. Mr. King, 
missionary to Greece, were very interesting. He alluded to 
his travels in the Holy Land in a manner so vivid that you 
were carried along with him. He has been a missionary for 
forty-five years. As I sat there I thought of the dear children 
so far away at home who were accustomed to assemble in the 

[13] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

vestry to listen to kind and instructive words from our own 
beloved pastor, and to sing these very hymns. A few minutes' 
walk from the chapel brought us to the Champs Mysees, which 
presented a gay scene, quite unlike one of our quiet home- 
Sundays. People in holiday attire were out for a promenade, 
and the continual stream of carriages rendered it difficult to 
cross the broad avenue. Had dinner a half -hour earlier than 
usual, after which went into the salon for a few minutes and 
listened to the fairy tones of a musical cigar-holder. 

Monday, Odoher 14 

Went with Madame directly after dejeuner to witness a 
grand funeral at Fere la Chaise. Achilles Fould, one of the 
great Parisian bankers and a former Minister of Finance, was 
interred at this celebrated place with great pomp and cere- 
mony. Yfe took a cab which we engaged by the hour, and 
after a long drive, reached the spot where thousands of people 
had assembled. We rode up as far as possible, then left the 
cab and joined the crowd. Although every one was eager to 
see all that was to be seen, there was no rude pushing as there 
is in an English or even an American crowd. Bach seemed 
to have a regard for his neighbor. I was never more impressed 
with French politeness. Madame called my attention to Gen. 
Canrobert, one of the French Marshals who was so active at 
Sebastopol. We were too late to see the funeral cortege enter 
the grounds, but we had a good view of the exit. Some of 
the Paris gamins had climbed into the trees for the view, 
though such a proceeding was quite contrary to the rules. 
They were at last spied by a sergeant de ville, and it was 
amusing to see the rapidity with which they descended and 
scampered away when they saw him coming. ' ' One more un- 
fortunate" being obliged to wait till his predecessors had 

[14] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

made their descent, was received into the arms of the official 
gentleman in Vv^aiting, who, after administering a few ad- 
monitory pinches and tweaks to the ear of the culprit, released 
him, evidently to the satisfaction of both parties, who dis-' 
persed from the scene of action in opposite directions, the 
sergeant de ville grinning expressively and the urchin rubbing 
his ear to restore the interrupted circulation. After the crowd 
had dispersed we went into the enclosure by a side entrance. 
As we wandered about the streets of this silent city of the 
dead, I was reminded of a dream which seemed to be realized 
here. Pere la Chaise was the very facsimile of the silent city 
of my dream. From a rise in the ground we had a fine view. 
The atmosphere was a little misty and the city was before us 
like the New Jerusalem in the picture of Bunyan's Pilgrim. 
It was a wonderful mirage; the Pantheon appeared like a 
temple in the air, and the whole city seemed to be falling 
from the clouds. We visited the tomb of Beranger, the Poet 
Laureate of France. Not far from his is the tomb of the lady 
he loved, Lisette, who died three months before himself. He 
wrote the inscription which graces her tombstone. We gath- 
ered a few ivy leaves from the tomb of Marshal Ney. There 
is no monument erected to his memory. He lies within a small 
enclosure which is ornamented only with beautiful shrubs and 
flowers. Madame mourned that so brave a hero should be so 
neglected by the French people, but said his family would not 
permit a monument to be erected, as they preferred it as it 
was. It did not seem to me neglected but more fresh and 
beautiful than cold marble or granite. We secured some green 
leaves and flowers from the tomb of Abelard and Heloi'se. 
The tomb is said to be built from the stones of the monastery 
where Abelard dwelt as a monk and Heloi'se lived as a nun. 
We saw the tomb of McDonald as well as of several other of 

[15] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Napoleon's Marshals. The avenues of trees are beautiful, their 
branches interlacing overhead and forming a perfect arbor for 
a long distance. It is quite unique, this Pere la Chmse. It 
lies near a little valley at the feet of this most beautiful Paris. 
These two cities, so near and yet so far apart, suggest the 
thought, Paris as it is, Paris as it will be, Paris present, Paris 
future, the one gay, full of life, its joys, its sorrows, its tur- 
moils and cares, the other at rest, silent, its streets deserted 
by its inhabitants, who have gone to their long homes. The 
pattering raindrops startled us from our reverie, and we 
hastened back to our cab, and in good time were set down at 
35 Rue de VArc de Triomphe. We encountered Mr. and Mrs. 
Griswold and little Annie on the stairs on their way home. 
They had come soon after we went away, to spend the after- 
noon. 

Tuesday, Octoljer 15 

A beautiful day. A great many people were at the Expo- 
sition. We visited the garden and the various caves, sat under 
an ivy tree, the top of which was trained to form a most 
beautiful and symmetrical arbor. Saw some remarkable speci- 
mens of fruit ; apples as large as a small-sized pumpkin, mon- 
strous pears, melons, quinces, and crab-apples. It is wonderful 
that all this lovely garden, with its caves, waterfalls, and 
grassy lawns, was, a few months ago, a flat parade ground! 
A little stream runs through it, spanned here and there by 
picturesque bridges. We mounted a flight of rocky steps to 
the top of a small cave and sat down in a comfortable seat, 
formed of the rocks as if by Nature, and listened to a band 
playing at a little distance. We visited the Imperial Pavilion 
in the Exposition grounds. It is not open to the public, but 
through the large windows of plate-glass the magnificent in- 

[i6] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

terior was plainly visible. We started for home at about 5 
o'clock. Our numero for the omnibus was 17, and after wait- 
ing for a place at least an hour, we were at last seated and 
arrived home just in season for dinner. 

Wednesday, Octo'ber 16 

Madame gave me some cotton in which to press the flow- 
ers and leaves that I had gathered at Fere la Chaise. At 
dejeuner Mrs. Hubbard and I arranged to go to the Exposition 
together. She went to the Champs Elysees to call upon some 
friends, and they prevailed upon her to accept an invitation 
she had previously received to a party; so she did not go to 
the Exposition. Ellie and I went, however, and saw many 
new, curious, and wonderful things. In the department of the 
Italian paintings saw some mosaics from the Vatican: The 
''Annunciation" and "Raphael's Madonna of the Chair;" the 
latter especially was exquisite, the fringe of the chair being com- 
posed of mosaics no larger than a small pin-head. We looked 
through the "Belgaic Fine Arts" and found some paintings 
exceedingly beautiful. Savf a curious clock, under the glass case 
of which was a mimic waterfall, and above, some green foliage, 
amongst which a tiny bird hopped about and twittered and 
fluttered its wings while its mate upon the ground seemed to 
be picking at a flower. In a beautiful cage beside the clock 
was a stuffed canary bird that sat upon a perch and sang as 
sweetly and as naturally as if alive, its tail and throat trem- 
bling with the vibrations. In another department were some 
handsome dolls in most elegantly furnished drawing-rooms. 
I am more and more impressed with the magnitude of the 
Exposition each time I visit it, and it would take years to see 
everything there. Mr. Farnham has left to-day for Brussels 
to finish his studies. 

[17] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Thursday, October 17 

111 to-day with sore throat and headache. Madame came 
in and thought a cup of ''feeble tea" would be good for me. 
Mrs. Hubbard gave me chlorate of potassium to gargle. 

Friday, October 18 
Convalescent. Remained indoors. Spent a pleasant half- 
hour with Mrs. Hubbard. Madame came in to inquire how to 
make pumpkin pies. The children went to the Exposition and 
came home dripping wet, as they could not find a carriage. 
Monsieur and Madame did not eat meat at dinner as it was 
Friday. Madame 's pumpkin pie was not a perfect success 
although very good. Madame is a pattern housekeeper. 

Saturday, October 19 

Took a cab to the Grand Hotel to call on Mrs. Lewis. 
Found her in, but just listening to the adieus of some visitors. 
She leaves Paris early Monday morning. "While I was there, 
a daughter of Mrs. Lloyd G-arrison called to see her. She is 
bright, talkative and interesting. She was wondering how her 
father, v/ho sails for America next week in the Java, would 
succeed in getting through the custom-house with all the booty 
with which he was laden. After taking our leave of Mrs. 
Lewis, drove to 49 Boulevard de la Tour Mainbourg to call on 
the Grisv/olds who have gone to housekeeping. Found them in 
quite an unsettled state but very pleasantly located. They 
showed me the rooms which are cozy, and prettily furnished. 
They have not yet purchased all their furniture. Mrs. Gleason 
gave me some ink powder and Madame Chevalier an inkstand 
after I returned home. ' 

[16] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Such a depressing influence as the sale of Mfteck de cheval 
has upon the surviving friends and relatives of the deceased 
is pitiful to behold ! One hardly knows when riding in a cab 
whether the poor beasts are dead or alive. I thought the Lon- 
don cab-horses were slow enough, but they go like steam- 
engines compared with the French steeds. Paris is a wonder- 
ful place ! Even the little children in the streets speak French, 
and the horses understand it when it is addressed to them ! 

Sunday, Octoher 20 
Did not go to church to-day. 

Monday, Octoher 21 
Magnificent day ! 

Tuesday, Octoher 22 

Monsieur Chevalier has learned to say ''Just right," and 
he sported it in great glee at the dinner-table, much to the 
amusement of all present. He attempted to say ''Peter 
Piper, ' ' and I repeated to his extreme edification ' ' Theophilus 
Thistle. ' ' He expressed his delight by saying, ' ' Justt rright, 
justt rright!" 

We had for first course soup, for second, macaroni cooked 
with cheese for flavoring, very delicious; third, veal; fourth, 
a kind of mush called chicory; fifth, a potato pudding, and 
sixth, fruit. 

Wednesday, October 23 

The Emperor of Austria arrived in town to-day, and the 
children went to witness the reception. After dinner Madame 
Chevalier showed us some new clocks she had purchased at an 

[19] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

auction, also some mousseline curtains. A clock seems to be an 
indispensable article of furniture, there being one in every 
room excepting the kitchen. 

Thursday, October 24 

Went after dejeuner to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. 
The day was bright but not very clear ; so our view was rather 
limited, though we could see nearly half the circle of the 
horizon. Paris is indeed a most beautiful city. The Arc de 
Triomphe, which is 152 feet high, 137 feet wide, and 68 feet 
deep, is the nucleus of a star from which radiate twelve 
avenues. Beginning at the Champs Ely sees and walking to 
the right, we come to them in the following order: Avenue 
Josephine, D'lena, du Roi de Rome, D^Eylau, de L'lmpera- 
trice, de la Grande Armee, d'Essling, Prince Jerome, Wagram, 
de la Reine Hortense, Friedland. There are 275 steps to the 
top of the Arc. This Arc, which is the largest in the world, 
was erected in honor of the armies of the Empire. The first 
stone was laid on the anniversary of the birthday of Napoleon 
I., Aug. 15, 1806. It was a fine sight, the gay equipages that 
passed along the Champs Ely sees; beautifully dressed ladies in 
carriages, on horseback; ladies a la promenade, soldiers on 
foot, and soldiers a cheval. The Avenue de la Grande Armee 
is composed of seven divisions, the central one being for car- 
riages, three on either side for promenade, and those on either 
side again like the usual sidewalks. We spent nearly two 
hours in watching the people, who looked like pygmies from 
our elevated position. 

Friday, October 25 

Monsieur Chevalier very kindly offered to escort us to wit- 
ness the review of 50,000 soldiers which took place to-day at 

[20] 



I MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Longchamps in the Bois de Boulogne, in honor of the visit of 
the Austrian Emperor. We armed ourselves with two diction- 
aries in order to be able to converse, and started immediately 
after Monsieur had given Mrs. Hubbard her French lesson, 
about two o'clock. We found on arriving at the Av de I'lm- 
peratrice, that the royal carriage had already passed. Walked 
rapidly to the railway station, where we arrived just in season 
to see the train leave, which, however, proved to be going in 
the opposite direction from that we wish to take. We walked 
across the chemin de fer contrary to rule, and found ourselves 
on the wrong platform, and as the guard would not allow us 
to retrace our steps, we were obliged to ascend the stairs and 
begin again by descending on the other side, as at first, much 
to our amusement. While waiting for the train we promenaded 
back and forth. Monsieur talking French, which he explained 
in very broken English, to which I responded, '^Je ne com- 
prends pas, Monsieur,'' a phrase which frequent use has en- 
abled me to render quite with the Paris accent. After a ride 
of about ten minutes, we arrived on the spot. It was a most 
charming place. The troops were already on parade in the 
field. The French Emperor and his royal guest stood upon 
the balcony of a little chateau in the background, while the 
soldiers marched to and fro, their steel helmets and arms 
flashing in the sunshine, and their gay uniforms presenting 
one of the most brilliant scenes I ever witnessed. After the 
review was over, the troops passed from the field and Monsieur 
pointed out to us the distinguished personages as they rode by 
on horseback; one of whom was Gen. Canrobert whom I had 
seen before at Pere la Chaise. The royal carriages passed 
while the people shouted ''Vive TEmpereur!" Monsieur 
Chevalier did not shout with the others, and on being asked the 

[21] 



MY LIFE IN PAEIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 






reason for his silence answered that the others spoke for him 
while he thought. 

As we were walking along one of the lovely avenues of 
the Bois de Boulogne, there was a flourish from a small detach- 
ment of infantry, and we stepped aside, while the carriage 
in which v/ere seated the Prince Napoleon, the cousin of the 
Emperor, his wife and the Princess Clotilde, daughter of the 
King of Italy, passed by. The soldiers were the bodyguard 
of the Prince. Gen. Murat passed immediately behind on 
horseback. From the Bois de Boulogne at the end of the Av. 
de la Grande Armee, the Rue de I'Arc de Triomphe via Rue 
des Acacias is only a twelve-minute walk. Monsieur left us at 
the foot of the Rue and proceeded on his way to the house of 
one of his pupils, and we were very glad to avail ourselves of 
the hour and a half before dinner in resting. As we entered 
the court, the concierge, who, by the way, is a necessary ap- 
pendage to every house, tending the door, waxing the floors, 
transporting luggage, etc., met us and inquired if we had seen 
the Austrian Emperor. By means of the dictionary I suc- 
ceeded in making her understand that we had had a good time. 
At dinner we learned a few forms of table etiquette. Always 
grasp the decanter firmly with the right hand in pouring out 
the wine or water. Never raise your glass to your lips with 
your left hand. The French are very particular in the ob- 
servance of these rules. 

Saturday, October 26 
Mr. d 'Amour called to-day with a package from London. 

Sunday, October 27 

Attended service in the morning at the Rue de Berri, 
where Rev. Dl*. Eldridge preached from the text, ' ' Thou shalt 

[22] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

not steal." Spoke of Frederick the Great as a thief, for hav- 
ing taken the lands of Maria Theresa, as one of the examples 
among many. Seems to consider the right of conquest in the 
same light as petty larceny. The singing was fine. 

Monday, October 28 

Mr. Lamp man had his ' ' skull-and-bones " pin in still a 
different location. It has been traveling over the broad ex- 
panse of his shirt-bosom for several days and has at last 
located itself in the angle of his vest. He is usually late at 
cafe, but for a wonder was in his place when I arrived, and 
took the opportunity, which he seemed much to enjoy, of in- 
forming me that I was late. Had for dejeuner different kinds 
of meat arranged upon a platter : chicken, ham, veal, sausage, 
hare, tongue, with pickles and a sort of meat jelly. Spent the 
afternoon at the Exposition. 

Tuesday, October 29 

Went to the Exposition accompanied by Louis. Heard 
Boscovitz play on the American pianos. He is a perfect 
genius. His very motions are musical; has a "sweet foot." 
I was much interested in a chocolate folding-machine, which 
seemed really intelligent, the different sections coming upon 
the stage and performing their parts, then retiring to give 
place to others. Visited the bakery frangais and regaled our- 
selves upon some excellent hot rolls which almost melted in 
one's mouth. Drank a glass of soda-water, walked to Mr. 
Griswold's, as it was impossible to obtain a carriage at the 
Exposition. Met Mr. Lewis, the "cousin John" Mrs. Gleason 
had so often mentioned, a very intelligent and agreeable 
gentleman who has traveled over the world and for the last 

[23] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

few years has resided in Paris. Mr. Lewis will see the boys 
safely started for London. 

Just after cafe this morning, Mr. and Mrs. Gross of New- 
ton Center called with a package from London. They were 
in Paris at the opening of the Exposition and have since 
been travelling over Europe. They are to be in Paris for a 
few weeks and hoped to be able to obtain board at Monsieur 
Chevalier 's, but on making inquiries, concluded that the hours 
at which we have our meals would be inconvenient for their 
sight-seeing and decided to go elsewhere, as they did not wish 
particularly to acquire the language. Went after dejeuner 
to the Exposition with Mrs. Hubbard. We talked French 
"mostly." Visited the beautiful bronzes and afterwards 
walked in the grounds where I met Mr. Griswold, who said the 
rest of the family were there, and I agreed to meet them in the 
inner court at three o'clock. Purchased a Testament for Mrs. 
Mason. Found the Griswolds and ' ' Cousin John ' ' at the time 
appointed, sat down in one of the chairs by the round build- 
ing, and while recruiting our energies, watched the thousand 
and one people as they passed, of all nations and tongues. 

We went to see the manufacture of felt hats ; very inter- 
esting. The felt dust is blown from a sort of machine with 
much force upon a perforated brass or copper form, for 
which it seemed to have a mysterious attraction as every 
particle of dust was drawn towards it, the air from within 
the form being exhausted by means of an air pump. After 
the revolving form was completely covered, it was thrust into 
a cauldron of boiling water, after which it was pressed etc. 
Saw also the manufacture of French flowers and glass bou- 
quets, both processes being very interesting. Saw a most 
exquisite statue of a sleeping lady in Parian marble. Spent 
a few moments in the picture department and again admired 

[24] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Rosa Bonheur's Cattle of Brittany. By the way, Madame 
Chevalier says she has often met her ; she lives not far from 
Paris, and is about fifty years old. Monsieur says she is 
considered the first among the French artists, especially in 
animal painting. Waited with Mrs. Gleason and Mrs. Gris- 
wold near the entrance of Porte Rapp nearly an hour while 
Mr. Griswold went in search of a cab. He was finally success- 
ful in obtaining one and we arrived home in time for dinner. 
The conversation at the table to-day was a droll mixture of 
French and English. A discussion upon Italian affairs was 
carried on between Monsieur Chevalier and Mr. Lampman, the 
latter being rather at a disadvantage owing to his limited com- 
mand of the language. He would begin a sentence very 
bravely, but after a few words would almost unconsciously 
glide into his native tongue, when Monsieur Chevalier would 
exclaim. '^Parlez frangais! parlez frangais! Je ne comprends 
pas Vanglaisf' And then Madame Chevalier would have to 
come in as an interpreter. The discussion was given up at 
last, as Mr. Lampman 's feelings became too deep for utterance. 
Monsieur Chevalier pronounces Garbaldi a fou. We sat at 
the table nearly two hours and a half and Monsieur suggested 
to Madame the propriety of rising before we all became tired. 
She appealed to me if it was not a good way, as the more we 
talked, the more French we should acquire. In the course of 
the conversation I said, "All the better," which seemed to 
strike Monsieur, and he repeated ''All the butter," and ap- 
pealed to Louis with "N'est-ce pas?" and Louis replied, ''Oui, 
Monsieur, all the butter," and Monsieur echoed, ''AH the 
butter" until we were all laughing, and Madame said, "better, 
not butter. ' ' But he seemed to think Louis the better author- 
ity persisted in saying "All the butter," as Louis wickedly 

[25] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

repeated it, until in a few Frencli words Madame told him what 
he was saying, whereat Monsieur looked quite sold and 
regarded deprecatingly his false teacher. 

Octoher 31 

Called for Mrs. Gleason according to agreement, to 
visit the tomb of Napoleon which is only a short distance 
from the Boulevard de le Tour Mainbourg. It is grand, 
simple, and beautiful. The sarcophagus is of porphyry, 
plain and elegant. The day was lovely, bright, warm and 
sunshiny. Was again impressed with the beauty of this 
most beautiful city, and the taste displayed on every side. 
Even the butchers stalls are arranged with an eye to beauty. 
The most common and ugly things are made to contribute to 
the general effect, and I am convinced that the French 
taste is unrivalled. An enormous pile of wood advertised 
for sale was piled in such a way as to assume an aspect of 
architectural grandeur quite in harmony with its surround- 
ings. Anywhere else, I fancy, the same materials would have 
been a blot upon the landscape. 

We went into one of the pretty public gardens which 
stood invitingly open, and after walking about awhile, 
stopped to watch some busy little seamstresses plying their 
needles as they sat beside their grandmothers, for aught I 
know, on one of the rustic settees, who set them an example 
of industry. They looked shyly up as we passed, their black 
eyes laughing at us from under their brows. We sent the 
boys for a cab and went home with Mrs. Gleason to wait for 
it. They were unsuccessful in obtaining an open one, but the 
cocker was very accommodating and could speak a little 
English, and drove his horses in a civilized manner so that in 
two hours we did considerable sight-seeing. Drove first to 

[26] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the Cathedral of Notre Dame. The priests in robes of crim- 
son velvet were performing their duties, and the choir was 
chanting the services. "We did not patronize the holy water 
which was extended to us on the bristles of a small long- 
handled brush by an old man who sat in a stall near the 
door, but passed along the aisles uncrossed. A richly-toned 
organ was sending its notes through the arches. On either 
side of the church was a figure of the Virgin before which 
was burning a small candelabrum of wax tapers which 
were every now and then renewed as they became too brief, 
by the women who tended them. We passed many persons 
who were kneeling at their prayers before some saint who 
looked down upon them from its niche with anything but a 
saintly expression of countenance. Louis and Cecil went up 
into the tower to see the big bell, while Ellie and I occupied 
the time in looking at the beautiful arches and the stained 
glass windows through which the sun poured in many 
colored lights. It was here that Napoleon I. was married to 
Josephine by Pope Pius VI. Notre Dame is built on the site 
of an ancient Roman temple. 

From this place we were driven to the Morgue near by, 
at which we made a hasty call. All the bodies found in the 
Seine, or within the jurisdiction of the Prefecture of Police, 
that are unrecognized are brought here, where they remain 
three days if not claimed sooner by their friends. There 
were two bodies in waiting. The room is hung with cloth- 
ing which has been taken from time to time from the bodies 
brought there. We took a hasty glance at the sickening 
sight and then hurried back to the cab, which we had scarcely 
left. Our cocker asked, ''N'est-ce pas joli?" comprehending 
our expeditious return. We drove to the Place de la Bas- 
tille, passed the Louvre, the palace and garden of the 

[27] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuileries, and the Place de la Concorde, in the center of 
which is the Obelisk of Luxor brought from the ruins of 
Thebes; it is covered with hieroglyphics. Here the unfortu- 
nate Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were guillotined. 
Drove up the Champs Elysees just after the lamps were 
lighted and in good time to meet the gay equipages return- 
ing from the Bois. After dinner did the packing, as the boys 
leave early in the morning for London. 

November 1 

The cab did not come in season to drive around for Mr. 
Griswold, as arranged, so Monsieur Chevalier kindly offered 
to accompany us to the station and see them safely started 
on their way. After we had bade them good-bye. Monsieur 
proposed that, as he had a holiday, we should go on a tonne 
promenade. Accordingly we first proceeded to Montmarte, 
and although the atmosphere was not clear, we felt well 
repaid for our labor of climbing up the hill which is 110 
yards above the level of the Seine. The view from here in a 
clear day must be almost unlimited. We saw in the distance 
the blue train of smoke and steam which proceeded from the 
locomotive that was carrying Louis and Cecil along the 
Chemin de Fer du Nord. We next proceeded to the cemetery 
of Montmartre, one of the three large burying-grounds of 
Paris. It is like Pere la Chaise, a city of the dead, though 
not quite so large. This is La Toussaint or All Saints Day 
and a preparation for the morrow, which is the Fete des 
Morts or All Soul's Day, when prayers are offered for the 
dead. The street leading to the principal entrance was 
lined on both sides with stalls on which were displayed all 
sorts of mourning wreaths, many of yellow immortelles upon 
which were embroidered in black the word ' ' Souvenir, ' ' also 

[28] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

wreaths of beads black and white, or both combined. Many 
of the friends of the departed were hurrying to their tombs 
with these tokens of remembrance. After entering the 
grounds, we came to a large cross at the foot of which many 
persons were kneeling. As we passed. Monsieur devoutly 
raised his hat. We spent more than an hour wandering along 
the streets and avenues, some of which are lined with trees, 
their branches interlacing overhead. A few faded leaves, 
with now and then a bright one interspersed, lingered be- 
hind their companions which lay scattered upon the ground. 
There was one beautiful avenue of some kind of evergreen 
tree, I do not know whether of cedar or spruce, if either. 
Several funeral trains wound their way slowly by us. The 
carriages are open so as to expose the bodies, which are 
covered with black or white palls as the deceased are married 
or single. A wreath of immortelles is usually placed at the 
head. Some of the tombs are decorated with flowers, fra- 
grant and beautiful roses, fuchsias and heartsease. Many 
of them are built like little Gothic chapels, with windows of 
stained glass whose colored lights fall upon the images of 
saints placed there doubtless for the spiritual benefit of the 
departed. We visited the tombs of several persons of dis- 
tinction : Marshal Lannes, the Cavaignac family, and the 
poet Legouve. The Jewish burying-ground is separated from 
the other by a fence. In this was a handsome marble statue 
of Halevy, the musician. I noticed upon the tombs in this 
place many stones of different sizes, and asked of Monsieur 
the significance, but could only understand from what he 
said that it was a Jewish custom. I asked Madame after we 
returned and she said she believed it had some significance 
relative to the stoning of Christ by the Jews. We came home 
by the Pare de Mongeau, through which we walked, a most 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

charming place, and arrived at 35 Rue de I'Arc de Triomphe 
with excellent appetites for breakfast, which we found 
nearly ready. 

November 2 

Was awakened this morning by the bells ringing a call 
to prayers for the dead. A lovely day only rather cold. Did 
not go out, having sprained my ankle yesterday, I am too 
lame. The Exposition which was extended for three days 
closes to-morrow. Mademoiselle Barret's maid arrived to- 
day to take charge of her mistress to London. Madame Cheva- 
lier will not be sorry when they are gone. This evening, while 
reciting my lesson to Monsieur Chevalier, we were interrupted 
by a call from Mr. and Mrs. Griswold. They had been sitting 
in the salon a few minutes when Madame, unconscious of their 
arrival, entered with a leg of mutton which she came in to 
exhibit to '^Leopold" that had just been brought by her 
butcher who lives sixty miles from Paris. It was droll to 
witness her astonishment as she spied them, and we had a 
good laugh at her expense, in which she joined, and, grace- 
fully begging pardon for the remarkable display, left 
the room to lay aside her prize. After their departure I 
finished my lesson and then, Mrs. Hubbard and Mr. Lampman 
coming in. Monsieur proposed a game of "whisk," Monsieur 
and Mrs. Hubbard playing for France; Mr. Lampman and I 
for Prussia. Prussia came off victorious in the first battle, but 
was defeated in the second, France winning with flying colors. 
We concluded to postpone the rubber, as it was getting too. late' 
to decide the contest that evening. 

Sunday, November 3 
Did not go out to-day. Sat in the salle-a-manger after 

[3o] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

dinner with Madame, Ellie, and Master Robert Olyphant. 
The last individual exhibited to our astonished gaze a won- 
derful "multum in parvo," a perfect toolchest of a knife 
v/hich he had purchased at the Exposition. Madame told him 
it was a hostler's knife. He is a droll chap, very original. 
The conversation turned on extracting teeth, when he re- 
marked, ''I think, Madame, the only proper way to extract 
teeth is to tie one's tooth to a cannon ball and then fire it 
off." This remark followed a harrowing description of a 
man who had his tooth "dug out", the officiating dentist 
using one instrument after another in performing the opera- 
tion. He was relating some items of observation during his 
residence in China. He says the Portuguese in China wear 
their shirt-tails hanging down under their short jackets. 
*' Shirt-tails ! " said Madame, ''shirt-tails! vat is that?" 
''Why," hesitatingly, "will you explain to her, Mademoiselle 
Stanton, what shirt-tails are?" Mademoiselle Stanton was 
taken with a fit of laughing, and Master Olyphant continued, 
"Why, Madame, shirt, you know what a shirt is," touching 
his collar and bosom by way of illustration, "well, it is the 
other end, you know. That hangs down, the tail, Madame." 
"0 yes," said Madame, "they wear tails hanging down from 
their heads." At this Master Olyphant went off into a 
paroxysm of laughter and gave up all attempts at a more 
lucid explanation. 

Monday, Noveniher 4 

To-day at dinner Monsieur introduced to us a college 
friend of his, in whose presence he seemed to find great de- 
light. He sat at Madame 's right hand and politely carved 
the meat for her. His manner occasionally during the con- 
versation was very enthusiastic. Once he grasped Madame 's 

[31] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

hand in both his and pressed it very sentimentally. Monsieur 
Chevalier took it all as a matter of course ; so I conclude it is 
the custom. We had for dinner in course, salad prepared in 
oil, as usual, cream cakes, frosted butter-cakes, cheese, apples, 
pears, rusks; claret and champagne were brought, in honor 
of his presence, to which he did full justice, especially to the 
former beverage, of which he drank at least eight glasses! 
Mr. Lampman proposed the health of Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier in a glass of champagne, which was enthusiasti- 
cally drunk with the preliminary clinking of glasses. After 
dinner Madame invited us all into the salon, herself leading 
the way, as she accepted the arm of the ''college friend." 
She was followed by Mr. Lampman who escorted Mrs. Hubbard. 
Monsieur Chevalier offered me his arm, and Ellie and Master 
Olyphant brought up the finale. I begged to be excused at the 
door of the salon, as I did not understand French sufficiently 
to enjoy a salon conversation, though I get along very well at 
the table. Ellie came dovv^n in about half an hour. Said the 
three gentlemen were smoking after their coffee, which was 
brought in immediately. Mrs. Hubbard made me a short call ; 
she is very lady-like and agreeable. 

Tuesday, Noveniber 5 

Walked this morning with Ellie to the Griswolds'. They 
were just taking their French lesson. Mr. Griswold is going to 
London ; starts this afternoon. Mrs. Griswold told me of her 
visit to Pere la Chaise on All Saints' Day. After my lesson 
this evening played whist, or "whisk," as Monsieur calls it. As 
we speak French all the time, it is quite as good as a French 
lesson. 

[32] 






MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, November 6 

Very cold to-day; did not go out at all. After my 
lesson had another game of ''whisk." 

Thursday, Novemher 7 

After breakfast called to see if Mrs. Gleason would 
accompany us to the Pantheon. She had just returned from 
the Hotel des Invalides; so we decided to go to-morrow to 
the Pantheon. They invited us to dine with them to-morrow. 
Before returning home took a drive in the Bois, which we 
enjoyed exceedingly. It is a lovely place. The trees send 
out a fragrant odor, and the foliage, though not to be com- 
pared to our Autumn colors at home, was yet very gay. The 
broad avenues were alive with elegant carriages and ladies 
and gentlemen on horseback, and with promenaders. Some 
of the horses were the handsomest I ever saw. The shadows 
deepened, and the moon and one bright star came out. We 
admired the twilight effect on a beautiful lake in which the 
shadow reflections were almost as distinct as the realities. The 
duck inhabitants were unusually noisy. As we emerged from 
the Bois, we were again struck with the beautiful effect of the 
lights which extended along the broad avenues which radiate 
from the Are de Triomphe nearly as far as the eye can 
reach. This evening Monsieur criticized the flourishes in my 
French copy, and I laughed till I cried at his comical man- 
ner. He was interrupted in his "wicked career," as his nez 
required immediate attention. He apologized for the neces- 
sity by remarking that he had a very disagreeable cold. I 
told him I had also, and I had been sneezing the prinicpal 
part of the day, when he immediately suggested, half in 
pantomime, that that accounted for the extra flourishes in 
my copy. He is tres-mechant ! The "whisk" party came in 

[33] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

as nsual, but I begged to be excused as I could not spare the 
time without neglecting Nettie's letter, which, was not to 
be thought of for a moment, and Master Olyphant and Madame 
Chevalier could fill my place and make up the party. 

Friday, November 8 

Sent word to Mrs. Gleason that I could not go to-day to 
the Pantheon or dine with them on account of my letters. 
Took my lesson, and just after, Mr. Lampman came in with a 
message from Mrs. Plubbard inviting us to her room to have a 
game of whist. The Prussians were defeated with the loss of 
all their diamonds and hearts to say nothing of their farming 
utensils and weapons of defense. 

Saturday, November 9 

Foggy to-day. Monsieur Chevalier has volunteered his 
escort to see some of the sights of Paris. He is very good. After 
dinner Monsieur Chevalier and Mr. Lampman had a funny 
duet. Monsieur handles his pipe with a grace which is un- 
approachable by Mr. Lampman. Whist afterwards, France 
and Prussia winning equally. 

Sunday, November 10 

Attended the American Chapel, Rue de Berri. Rev. Dr. 
Eldridge preached from the tenth commandment. Attended 
Sunday School concert in the same place and seemed again 
to be at home. The exercises opened by singing '^Hail, hail 
this happy day," which was followed by reading from the 
Scriptures and prayer by Dr. Eldridge. Many American 
gentlemen were present, among whom were Rev. Mr. 
Sawyer of Boston and Rev. Mr. Saunders, missionary to 
Ceylon. The remarks of the last named gentleman were very 

[34] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

interesting. He has been in America for the past two years 
and is now on his way to Ceylon. He gave ns a description 
of the native children, of the way they build their school- 
houses, which cost about $2.50 when completed. There are 
over 240 letters in the native alphabet. After singing ''111 
rise up early in the morning," ''Lo! our dear Sunday 
School," there was an address by a gentleman from Chicago. 
This being the last Sabbath that the Supt. Mr. L. F. Mellen, 
would be present, as he starts to-morrow for England and 
returns to America, Rev. Dr. Eldridge read some "Resolu- 
tions," which were unanimously accepted by the children, 
wherein was an expression of appreciation of his past services 
and kind wishes for his future welfare. On the way home we 
saw Mrs. Gross and Mrs. Gleason who had also been to the 
concert. Mrs. Gross is exceedingly pretty and bears a strik- 
ing resemblance to Mrs. Frank Eaton. Mr. Lampman and 
Master Olyphant were not at dinner this evening. After 
dinner we went to the salon where coffee was served im- 
mediately. 

Monday, November 11 

I had the pleasure of saying ''Bon apres-midi" to Mr. 
Lampman who was very late at cafe. We renewed the subject 
of pumpkin versus squash pies, which was discussed last Satur- 
day at dinner, Mr. Lampman having at that time ordered two 
pies from 40 Rue Godot de Mauroi that Madame might have 
the opportunity of tasting a real Yankee pumpkin-pie. Mr. 
Lampman cannot tell any difference between pumpkin and 
squash when they are made into pies and thinks I am mistaken 
because I can. Said he propounded the question last night 
when he dined at Mr. Thompson's, and all but one agreed 

[35] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

with him that there was no perceptible difference. He 
talks of pumpkin pies made of squashes, a form of expression 
which I took the liberty of criticizing. 

Tuesday, November 12 

Today at dejeuner Madame suggested that we go sight- 
seeing this afternoon, a suggestion highly agreeable to us all. 
Accordingly about 2 o'clock, we, that is Madame Chevalier, 
Mr. Lampman, Master Olyphant, Ellie and myself emerged 
from 35 Rue de TArc de Triomphe and walked as far as the 
Champs Elysees, where we took an open carriage and proceeded 
to the beautiful "temple in the clouds" seen J&rst from Fere 
la Chaise, Sainte Genevieve, Place du Pantheon, where is a 
monument dedicated to the great men of France. After admir- 
ing the beautiful interior, the frescoes and the dome, we des- 
cended to the crypt to see the tombs of Lagrange, Voltaire, 
Rousseau and other great men. Some of the tombs are ceno- 
taphs, but the remains of Voltaire and Rousseau are here. In 
the tomb of the former is a marble statue by Houdon. From the 
tomb of Rousseau is extended an arm and hand holding a 
torch. In some of the vaults above the sarcophagi were niches 
in which were placed urns of stone containing the hearts only 
of those whose names were inscribed. The guide who pre- 
ceded us with a lantern, conducted us to a place where is 
heard a remarkable echo, and after performing for our edifi- 
cation for the space of five minutes, led the way to the higher 
regions, and we soon found ourselves over two hundred feet 
above the surface of the earth, nearly in the center of the 
great city of Paris, of which, and its suburbs, we had a most 
commanding view. The people below looked like Lillipu- 
tians, and a funeral procession that wound slowly along 
might have been a train of black ants judging from the appar- 

[36] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ent size of the moving figures. Just below us was the College 
of Charlemagne, one of the oldest colleges in Paris. Also 
the Church of St. Etienne du Mont, one of the oldest churches. 
The Library of Ste. Genevieve and the old church we visited, 
and then walked to the Palais du Luxembourg and took a 
stroll around the lovely garden. There are innumerable 
avenues of magnificent trees. We stopped long to admire 
the fountain whose waters fall like a cascade into a pretty 
little artificial lake, overarched by the branches of trees 
planted on either side, which in their turn were adorned with 
ivy, which crept from one to another in heavy festoons. 
Over the front of the fountain, in a grotto of ivy were marble 
figures of "Acis and Galatea," who have just been discovered 
by Polyphemus, who is represented in bronze peering at 
them over the top. Statues of many of the kings and queens of 
France adorn the grounds. We feasted our delighted eyes 
until the gathering twilight warned us to linger no longer, 
and we were soon seated in a close cab on our way home. We 
passed a carriage in which was John C. Breckenridge, but as 
the horses attached seemed to be "going by the hour" we 
gave up all hopes of a second glimpse and left him in the 
dim past, as we were going by "the course." At dinner I 
was spared the usual query, "Etes vous sortie aujourd'hui. 
Mademoiselle?" except by Mrs. Hubbard who having been 
away all day, was not in the possession of the remarkable fact 
that I had been out walking. Monsieur informed us that a 
"petit disciple" of his would dine with us to-morrow. After 
reciting our lesson, we retired immediately. 

I November 13 

-4. 

Anna has put up some new mousseline curtains at our 
windows. Studied nearly all day. Just before diner went 

[37] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

out for a honne promenade and ''boxed" the Arc de 
Triomphe. At dinner was assailed with the usual question, 
first by Monsieur, then Mr. Lampman, then Mrs. Hubbard. 
Monsieur upset his glass of wine ; a large portion of the con- 
tents went into his plate and the balance upon the tablecloth 
and his napkin. A nice piece of gateau which was in his plate 
was completely soaked, but he pronounced it a great improve- 
ment. I suggested that the accident befell him as a punishment 
for his teasing propensities, a suggestion which he accepted 
with becoming meekness. However, before dinner was over I 
perceived that it had no lasting effect. The ''petit disciple" 
previously announced proved to be the Polish Prince, Leon 
Mniszech, of whom I had heard and who has been a pupil of 
Monsieur Chevalier's for the last eight years. He is a head and 
shoulders taller than Monsieur, and although he will not be 
eighteen until next month, looks like a man of twenty-five. 
He is six feet in height, light complexioned with heavy 
whiskers. His manners are charming, at once dignified and 
boyish. He speaks English with a pleasing foreign accent. 
French he has spoken since he was two years old, and 
Madame says he speaks German perfectly, and with "such a 
soft, beautiful accent that it is de-li-ci-ous to hear him." His 
native language he has studied but does not speak it and 
says he does not like it. His parents reside a short distance 
from here in an elegant hotel. 

We had a sort of sweet wine, almost a syrup, served in 
the tiniest spangled glasses not much larger than a thimble 
after cafe, which was served in the salon. We had a game of 
"whisk," Mrs. Hubbard and Prince Mniszech playing opposite 
for France and Mr. Lampman and myself for Prussia. As the 
Prince did not understand the game. Monsieur Chevalier over- 
looked his hand and assisted him. The two nations were equally 

[38] 




Prince Leon Mniszech 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

victorious in the four encounters. The party broke up about 
half past ten, Monsieur accompanying his guest home. 
Madame says he has never until last year been allowed to go 
out by himself, and nov7 his parents never like him to be out 
in the evening without an attendant. It seems funny to talk 
of the tall, manly looking person as if he were a boy, but so 
he is. He is intelligent, smart, polished, and handsome. 

Thursday, November 14 

This afternoon an orchestra composed of five men, two 
violins and a guitar, came into the court and we were enter- 
tained for the space of half an hour with the most delightful 
music. From the rattling of the sous upon the pavement I 
think they must have been well repaid. Madame came into 
my room this afternoon. I think she is a lovely woman, so 
kind. She had a severe headache, and I gave her some 
homeopathic medicine, which she laughingly took though 
evidently sans faith. Her health is not very good, and she 
says she thinks more about dying than about living. It is 
fascinating to hear her talk in her broken English. She says ; 
''For what have I to live for? My children all dies; to be 
sure I have my husband; Monsieur Chevalier is one of the 
best of men, and I must help him to sustain himself; men 
cannot bear griefs, but women can always have grief." 

Friday, Novemher 15 

Went out shopping to-day with Madame but did not 
accomplish much. On the Rue Royale Madame met two 
young ladies, friends of hers. As she talked with them, we 
amused ourselves in watching the people crossing the street 
in front of the Madeleine. One old fat woman with a flower- 
pot in her hands "enjoyed great trials" in avoiding the car- 

[39] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

riages and the mud ,and preserving uninjured at the same 
time her green sprig. She at last accomplished the feat and 
stepped upon the sidewalk with an air of triumph quite amus- 
ing. We visited a great many shops but found the prices so 
exhorbitant that we were obliged to withhold our patronage. 
In the vicinity of the Champs Elysees, we passed the hotel of 
Madame the Countess Landskoroinska, pronounced Lan-sko- 
ro-en-ska, aunt of the Polish Prince, the "petit disciple" of 
Monsieur Chevalier's. She is now in mourning for her mother, 
who died a few days ago Madame says, but after the mourning 
is over, she will get permission to take us over her hotel, 
which is magnificently furnished. Her mother, who died so 
recently, was very near the Polish throne. 

We encountered a funeral as we passed down one of the 
narrow streets, and stopped a moment. The large portal 
which opens from the street into a paved porch, as is the 
fashion of the houses here, was hung with black cloth 
trimmed with white fringe, and directly over the door was a 
black shield-shaped device trimmed in the same manner, upon 
which in white was the letter V, the initial of the family 
name of the deceased. The coffin which stood upon a bier in 
the porch was surrounded by lighted candles which were 
removed when it was brought out. Madame says the white 
palls are for the unmarried persons. It is not the custom 
here for ladies to attend funerals ; only women of the lower 
class of society are ever present on such occasions. 

At dinner Mr. Lampman, Monsieur and Madame got into 
quite a religious discussion, which was occasioned by the pro- 
prietors of the establishment abstaining from meat-eating, as it 
was Friday, the reason for such abstinence being demanded 
by Mr. Lampman. It was all very polite and good natured but 
very earnest on both sides. Coffee was brought in, and Mon- 

[40] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sieur and Mr. Lampman ordering their pipes, the discussion 
ended in smoke. Mr. Lampman has a new pipe of which he 
seems quite proud, having purchased it for four sous. 

Saturday, November 16 

Took our lesson to-day just after the second breakfast, 
as company was expected in the evening. At diner Madame 
introduced to us her cousin, a bright-appearing lady in black 
silk with pink bows, who sat at Monsieur Chevalier's left 
hand. She speaks English quite well and reminded me of 
Josie Ayer. After dinner we adjourned to the salon where 
coffee was served. Madame informed us that she was 
searching for a wife for M. Patrico, the college-friend of 
Monsieur's, who dined here a short time ago. On being 
asked if he could not officiate for himself in such a case, 
Madame replied that it is not the custom here in France for 
a lady and gentleman ever to see each other until after they 
are engaged, their partners always being selected for them ! 
Strange country, this ! 

Sunday, November 17 

Paris is in tears, and so almost am I. This is a dull, 
rainy, homesick day, no going out to church. The little 
sparrows hop about discontentedly on the balcony and chirp 
and chatter as if quite out of sorts with themselves. EUie 
and I have read a chapter in our French Testaments. We 
had cafe at one o'clock to-day and dejeuner before twelve, 
and I hardly know what part of the day it is I feel so twisted 
about. The meals to-day are as irregular as a French verb ! 

Monday, November 18 
Went with Monsieur Chevalier, EUie, and Master 

[41] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



i 



Olyphant to the Louvre to see tlie royal carriages pass and re 
pass on their way to and from "L'Ouverture de la Chambre." 
This ceremony occurred earlier than usual on account of the 
disturbances in Italy. The Emperor having sent troops to that 
country on his own responsibility, was obliged to submit the 
procedure to the Deputies. Monsieur took us the longest! 
way round to avoid the mud, to the Champs Elysees, whence 
we took a carriage to the scene of action. Tout le monde had 
already assembled. A double file of soldiers stood on either 
side of the broad avenue, and we secured places as near them 
as possible. I was again impressed with the politeness of a 
French crowd. The approach of the royal carriages was 
announced by a flourish of arms, when they appeared, pre- 
ceded by the white-plumed cavalry known as ''The Emperor's 
Guard." The Empress sat alone in her carriage which was 
lined with white. Directly behind followed the carriage 
occupied by the Emperor and the Prince Imperial. The 
entrance of the Royal party to the Louvre was announced 
by the firing of cannon. As they passed, shouts of ''Vive 
I'Empereur" from a few enthusiastic Frenchmen vibrated 
through the air . We had a very good view of the carriages, 
but the dodging of the heads utterly intercepted our view of 
the inmates. We were more fortunate after patiently waiting 
for about half an hour, during which time the Emperor 
made a speech to the deputies and other people who were so 
fortunate as to be admitted, in reference to his proceedings 
on the Italian affairs. The firing of a big gun announced that 
the important matter in the interior was over, and each and all 
were literally on tip-toe as the royal carriages were about to 
repass. Monsieur Chevalier, in the meantime, had secured 
for us excellent positions, and the obliging man, always 
kind and polite, really seemed willing to make a martyr of 

[42] 




The Empress Eugenie 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

himself in the cause of our obtaining a good view, and 
absolutely entreated us to stand on his toes to assist our 
elevation ! I assured him that I was sure we should be able 
to see perfectly well, and I was not mistaken, for we had so 
good a view of the Royal Family that I should be able to 
recognize them should I meet them in the street. The 
Emperor's carriage was the first to retu.rn. He sat up in a 
dignified and kingly manner. The Prince Imperial was 
dressed in a suit of black velvet with scarlet stockings. He 
is a handsome boy and removed his little cap, bowing in a 
dignified and graceful manner in return to the salutations 
which greeted him on every side. The Empress was grace 
itself, as she sat in her carriage with a little white velvet 
hat trimmed with brown velvet, which matched her elegant 
dress, on her head, which she continually inclined, first 
toward one side and then the other of the carriage, bestow- 
ing her smiles equally upon all. Madame says January is 
the month for the '^ Opening of the Chambers. '^ We walked 
home through the Garden of the Tuileries, which is very 
beautiful. Had no occasion to use my pocket dictionary, 
which I am happy to consider an indication of progress, as I 
understood nearly all that Monsieur said. Recited my 
lesson as usual. 

Tuesday, November 19 

Terribly dull and stupid to-day. Never studied harder 
in my life, and my lesson v/as a complete failure. Was glad 
to retire from Monsieur's presence as soon as possible, and 
the kind man expressed his fears that I was malade. Wish I 
had been, but alas ! it was only stupidity. I am almost dis- 
couraged. 

[43] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, November 20 

This morning my treacherous lesson came to me without 
more study; so it was in my head after all. Went to walk 
the whole length of the Champs Elysees. The sun was warm 
and bright, but the air cold. It is not the custom for French 
ladies to walk out in the morning, or indeed, at all without a 
gentleman escort, but I do not care to conform to French 
customs so long as I am not otherwise annoyed than by being 
started at. The Champs Elysees was filled with nursery 
maids and their pretty little charges, who were running after 
their hoops, (not of the nursery maids), skipping ropes, or 
playing with their dolls or other toys, as happy and as 
bright as possible. One very tall negress in a bright yellow 
turban having two little girls in charge, looked as if she were 
''monarch of all she surveyed." At dejeuner the discussion 
of Madame 's theology was the principal topic, Mr. Lampman 
declaring that if the Romanists took literally the saying, ' ' This 
is my body," they must take also literally all figurative lan- 
guage that our Lord used. The discussion ended as satis- 
factorily as usual. Mrs. Hubbard came into my room after 
breakfast to ask me to go shopping with her directly after 
she should have taken her French lesson. We accordingly 
started at three o 'clock precisely and returned in season for 
dinner at half -past six. The "petit disciple" was again here 
to dinner. He wears well and appeared more boyish than 
ever, but never forgetting his dignity. We played four 
games of whist, Prussia versus France, Prussia winning 
three times out of the four. 

Thursday, November 21 
Dull and rainy. After dejeuner took a walk down the 

[44] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Avenue de I'lmperatrice, which notwithstanding the dull 
weather, was gay with carriages, pedestrians, and horseback 
riders. It seems to me that the Parisian horses excel all 
others that I have ever seen, in beauty. Did not take a lesson ; 
am going to indulge in a conge until Monday and see if I am 
not in a better mood for studying by that time. Did some 
shopping ; bought an umbrella of nice silk with a handle of 
rhinoceros horn, paying only fourteen francs fifty centimes. 
Also bought a purse, some handkerchiefs, and some stationery. 

Friday, November 22 

Rainy and dull. Did not care to go out at all. After 
dinner Monsieur brought out from the salon two large easy- 
chairs for Madame and myself, also his pipe and tobacco box, 
Mr. Lampman in the meantime having gone for his. We all sat 
around the large dining-table, and while Madame was en- 
gaged with her book and knitting. Master Olyphant and Ellie 
amusing themselves with a game of solitaire, Prussia versus 
Prance had another encounter in whist, Prussia coming off 
with fresh laurels. Cafe was brought in, and the evening 
sped away merrily. 

Saturday, November 23 

Studied as usual. Madame has changed the hour for 
Cafe from eight to half-past eight, which is more agreeable 
to all concerned. Just before dinner Mrs. Hubbard came down 
to invite us to sit in her room. We accepted the invitation, 
and found the room perfectly captivating, with its cheerful 
open fire and easy chairs. A sort of competition seemed to 
be going on between the fire and the lamp as to which should 
give the more light, and I may as well add, heat, as from the 
style of the fireplaces here, a fire is more ornamental than 

[45] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

useful, and between the two there was quite an illumination. 
We spent the time until dinner was announced in looking 
over an album of pressed flowers and engravings collected by 
Mrs. Hubbard as souvenirs of her travels. She is a very inter- 
esting lady, refined and agreeable. After dinner the easy 
chairs, pipes, and whist and coffee again, France victorious. 

Sunday, November 24 

Attended service in the morning at the Congregational 
chapel. Rue Royale, numero 23, where the pastor, Rev. S. 
Baron Hart preached an excellent sermon from the text: 
''What is the chaff to the wheat?" saith the Lord. Jer. 23; 
28 1. c. Met Mrs. Gleason, who informed me that little Annie 
has been quite ill. In the afternoon at half -past three, attended 
the American chapel, Rue de Berri. Thanksgiving is to be 
observed on Thursday next, Nov. 28. A service at the Rue 
de Berri and afterwards a real American dinner at Madame 
Chevalier's. Madame, with her usual kindness, has made 
minute inquiries with reference to the bill-of-fare on the 
great occasion and is going to indulge us with a vast turkey 
and all the accompanying et ceteras. This evening Monsieur 
de Lavallette, a cousin of Monsieur Chevalier's, dined with us. 
He is a nice-looking gentleman with iron-grey hair and mus- 
tache. 

November 25 

It has ''spit" a little to-day, it being too cold to rain. 
Studied all the morning on my French lesson. Have finished 
the fable "L'Hirondelle et les petits Oiseaux" to recite in 
the evening with a long grammar lesson. After dejeuner went 
with Mrs. Hubbard to Munroe & Co.'s Rue Scribe, for her 

[46] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

letters, after which, she accompanied me to the ^^ Grand 
Magasin de Louvre,'" where I did some shopping. We con- 
versed nearly all the time in French. Returned just in time to 
write my exercise before d/iner. Monsieur Chevalier pro- 
nounced our lesson ^Hres-hien." When there is anything we 
do not understand, he explains it by means of broken English 
accompanied by vivid pantomiming. While I was reciting, 
Anna brought in on a plate a letter from Nettie. Monsieur 
politely requested me to read it at once, but I concluded to in- 
dulge in the pleasure of anticipation until after my lesson was 
completed. Had a delicious German dish for one of the courses 
at dinner called ''schmalden." There is a green cockatoo at 
the window on the opposite side of the court that chatters in 
French, ''Voyons! voyons ! cockoo!" 

Tuesday, November 26 

Did not go out to-day. Recited my lesson in the evening 
as usual. 

Wednesday, November 27 

Just after dejeuner, Mrs. Gleason called and sat nearly 
two hours. She was just about to go up into the salon to call 
on Madame Chevalier when that lady appeared all dressed to 
go out to give Prince Mniszech his German lesson. She made 
some inquiries of Mrs. Gleason in reference to making pumpkin 
pies and then was obliged to hasten away. A workman came to 
repair the door, which has settled so as to leave a large open- 
ing over the top. He put a piece of wood over the top, which 
proving too thick, he commenced to plane it off, but a nail 
interfering with that method, he fitted the house to the door ! 

[47] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Thursday, November 28 

Thanksgiving. Very cold and a fog unusually thick for 
Paris ; so said Madame at cafe. It was almost a London ' ' pea 
soup" so dense we could hardly see across the street. EUie 
went to church with Mrs. Hubbard, but I did not go out. 
When she returned, she brought with her Mrs. Gleason and 
Mrs. Griswold, who, at Madame 's earnest solicitation went 
up and took cafe with us. The rest of the family not being 
present, we had the salle a manger all to ourselves and were 
presently joined by Monsieur Chevalier who bestowed his pres- 
ence upon us in honor of our National Thanksgiving. Mrs. 
Griswold said it was a sad day for them, as it was the anni- 
versary of her father's burial, and Mr. Griswold who, they 
had hoped would be at home to spend the day, was detained 
in London on business. They remained some time, and while 
they talked with Madame, Monsieur took us to his hihliotheque 
and lent me "La Belle Gabrielle" by Auguste Maquet, which 
as yet I have had no time to read. Madame 's Thanksgiving 
dinner would have done honor to a New England matron. 
The dindon was cooked to a nicety. The pumpkin pies, of 
which there were many, were truly Yankee, and we all did 
them full justice, especially Mr. Lampman who was to the 
pumpkin pies what the sun is to the dewdrops. The ''pope's 
nose ' ' reposed in the midst of its surrounding anatomy resting 
upon the drumsticks in an elevated position. The whole 
affair was said to resemble a fat Cardinal, who was present 
at the assembling of the ''Corps Legislatif." There were 
two invited guests present. Prince Mniszech and M. de 
Lavallette, who were convinced that Thanksgiving dinners 
were ' ' institutions truly agreeable. ' ' Mr. Lampman proposed 
the health of Madame Chevalier, which was joyfully drunk 

[4S] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

after the usual clinking of glasses. Several other healths 
were proposed during the dinner. The pumpkin pies were 
brought in and greeted with roars of laughter, as a whole one 
was appropriated to Master Olyphant and Ellie. A monstrous 
one graced the center of the table, which Mr. Lampman claimed 
as his share. Monsieur Chevalier had one smaller in circum- 
ference but scarcely less in bulk in his hand preparatory to 
cutting; but a brighter idea seemed to strike him suddenly, 
and he deposited it on my plate, as I sat next to him. There 
was no end to the goodies, and after our capacities had been 
satisfied to the utmost, there came on preserves most 
delicious, strawberry and apricot, and most extraordinary 
pears. 

The dinner over, the gentlemen went into Mr. Lampman 's 
room to smoke ; and the ladies with Master Olyphant, who 
seemed to be in a disabled condition owing to the ''pies and 
things" entered the salon. When the gentlemen came in, we 
had a whist party composed of Messieurs Mniszech and 
Lampman, Mrs. Hubbard and myself. The first encounter 
ended with cries of ' ' Vive la Prusse ! ", in which Prince 
Mniszech joined, strong upon the stronger side. Monsieur 
Chevalier invited that gentleman to rise and avenge the wrongs 
of France, which we really feared he would be successful in 
accomplishing, until the last hand, when the Prussians marched 
out completely triumphant. Madame, in the meantime, had 
disappeared; but presently the dining-room door was thrown 
open, and an odor strongly resembling mince pies greeted 
us. On being invited out we perceived that the odor pro- 
ceeded from the vin chaud, a French beverage composed of 
vin ordinaire with spices, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon added 
and all heated to the boiling point and then served in little 
glasses, in which state we found it. Some very nice cakes were 

[49] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

served with it. The hour was late so Mrs. Hubbard and I bade 
them ton soir and retired to our rooms, Ellie and Master 
Olyphant having some time before preceded us. 

Friday, November 29 

Did not go out to-day. Studied and wrote letters. This 
evening at the dinner table we entered into an agreement 
not to speak English at all, and whoever forgot or spoke 
English with malice aforethought should for each word for- 
feit one sou. Mr. Lampman made the rule, to which we all 
agreed. Mr. Lampman paid the first forfeit of two sous. 
Madame has provided a little carved handled panier, (Picture) 
which is to be placed upon the table at every meal. Recited our 
lessons as usual. Madame sat in the room at the same time 
knitting on a very long-legged stocking, the mate to which is 
already completed. She has had them "in tow" for the last 
three years and hopes to finish this one before the week closes. 
They are of a mixed-blue yarn and the knitting must have 
been a work of patience as well as of time. 

Our little panier has received several contributions, and 
Monsieur delights to take it in his hand and jingle the con- 
tents keeping time with the music by chanting, ''Pour les 
pauvres, s'il vous plait," and trying. various means to betray 
us into saying something in English. We have decided that 
the contents of the panier shall be given to the poor. Mrs. 
Hubbard was a victim to-night to the extent of seven words. 
She contributed her sous with a good grace amidst the 
cheers of tout le monde. Monsieur himself was surprised into 
saying one English word, and I had the satisfaction of jingling 
the panier in the vicinity of his ear to his own refrain of, 
"Pour les pauvres, s'il vous plait." Before dinner was over, 
however, he returned the compliment, as by a slip of the 

[50] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tongue, an English mot came out of my mouth. As I had no 
sou, Monsieur very kindly offered to lend me one ; indeed, he 
seemed only too glad to serve me in that way ! 

Sunday, December 1 

Last night the wind blew furiously, and my window 
made such a noise that I was under the painful necessity of 
getting up to close it. It is so rainy that we cannot attend 
church. The day has been very sombre and sad, no letters 
to enliven it, and they were never more wished for. 

Monday, December 2 

We went for a walk to-day and called on Mrs. Griswold. 
The folks were all out. It is very cold. Snowed for a few 
minutes and then cleared away bright. Had a very pleasant 
recitation to-night of more than two hours. We have all 
contributed to the panier; the contributions amount to 
nearly two francs, my donations amounting to two sous. Mrs. 
Hubbard and Mr. Lampman are very anxious about the sou 
lent me by Monsieur, and ask me at every meal if I have paid 
him. They think I have not, and Monsieur and I do not un- 
deceive them. Recited to-night the fable, ''Le Loup et 
I'Agneau." 

December 3 

The ground was covered with snow this morning, and 
it has been a bright cold day, quite American. The panier 
has received contributions from Mrs, Hubbard and Mr. 
Lampman. The usual question was propounded, "Etes-vous 
sortie aujourd'-hui?" Recited my lesson and retired im- 
mediately. * 

[SI] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



Decemher 5 

Did not sleep much last night. Had a wretched face 
ache and could not help crying with the pain. This morning 
was ashamed to go to cafe with my swollen eyes, but went 
nevertheless and passed the fiery ordeal of inquiries and 
sympathetic words. Madame did not at first understand my 
explanations and attributed my strange appearance to the 
effects of sleeping with my window open, a state of air she 
has often warned me against. When she finally compre- 
hended, the dear woman was full of pity and began an 
immediate search for her chloroform. At dejeuner^ Monsieur 
invited us to a donne promenade, as he had a short conge of 
two hours, as Prince Leon Mniszech did not take his usual 
lesson. We started for the Bois, where we had a very pleasant 
walk. Passed the Jar din zoologique d' Acclimatation but did 
not enter. Met a poor invalid lady who was being assisted 
to her carriage. The day v/as charming, but rather cold, 
though not uncomfortable for brisk walking. On our return 
home visited the Chapelle St. Ferdinand on Road de la Re- 
volte which is built on the site of the house where the Due 
d 'Orleans, son of Louis Philippe, died in 1842. It is a beautiful 
little chapel in the form of a Greek cross. Monsieur rang 
the bell at the house of the concierge, which was answered 
by a woman. We v/ere presently joined by an escort, an 
interesting-looking, white-haired man v/ho proceeded with 
us to the Chapelle, which is open every day for service, con- 
sisting of prayers for the repose of the soul of the young 
Duke. The public, however, cannot enter without a prev- 
iously obtained permission. The Chapelle was warm, being 
heated by a furnace. A handsome old cat, probably with 
theological tendencies, lay curled up on one of the cushioned 

[52] 



1 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

seats sleeping cosily. In this Chapelle is a cenotaph of the 
Due d 'Orleans, who is represented extended on a mattress as 
if dying. Keeping guard at his head is a beautiful angel in 
Carrara marble, with wings spread. In front of the altar 
are three praying-chairs most beautifully embroidered, two 
large and one very small, by the Queen Amelia, the Queen of 
Belgium and Duchess of Orleans. On descending three or 
four steps behind the altar we came to a little ante-room in 
which is a painting by Jacquand representing the " dernier s 
moments du due cVOrleans." In the foreground the Duke is 
represented, half reclining on some cushions, his shirt open 
at the throat as if to assist his respiration. At the right and 
kneeling at his feet is his father, Louis Philippe, whose 
sorrow-stricken face is most expressive. At the left, her face 
hidden in the cushions, in an attitude of intense grief, is the 
Queen, his mother. Various other persons surround him, the 
portraits of all being true to life. After leaving the 
Chapelle we entered a house on the opposite side of the court- 
yard, in which among other things of interest, are two clocks, 
the hands of the one indicating ten minutes to twelve, the 
time at which the young Duke fell from his horse mortally 
wounded, and the other ten minutes past four, when he died. 
We parted from Monsieur Chevalier at the foot of the 
Rue des Acacias, v/hich leads into the Rue de I'Arc de 
Triomphe. 

Decemher 4 

The Prince Leon Mniszech dined with us again to-day. 
He contributed to our little panier, more than tvvo 
francs. To begin with, he commenced and counted deliber- 
ately in English up to forty, though he knew each number 

[53] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



1 



was priced at a sou, after which he paid his forfeit with much 
promptness, much to Robert's delight. 

December 5 

This morning found the water in my pitcher frozen. 
Snowy this afternoon. Recited as usual this evening. 

Thursday, December 6 

This morning went to Mrs. Hubbard's room to speak to 
her, grammar in hand preparatory to studying in the salle a 
manger, but she induced me to remain in her room until 
dejeuner was announced. "While I was there, Mr. Lampman 
came in for a moment. I begged permission to be allowed to 
study his ' ' skull and bones ' ' at which he looked quite horrified 
and went out directly. At breakfast the conversation flowed 
into the usual Friday channel, terminating, in a religious dis- 
cussion between Madame and Mr. Lampman. 

Went to Munroe & Co., 7, Rue Scribe, but my errand 
was fruitless, because I was too late for banking hours, 
which are from ten to four; so I must go again to-morrow. 
Called at the Griswolds. Found them at home. Mrs. Gleason 
regaled us on mince pie and sent one by us to Madame 
Chevalier. It being Friday, Madame did not have it for 
dinner, as she is a good Catholic and eats no meat on this 
day and does not allow Monsieur to partake of the viand. 

Madame Chevalier chanced to be going out for a walk, just 
as we had started for Rue Scribe, and our paths were in the 
same direction. Passed the hotel of the Duke of Brunswick, 
cousin to Queen Victoria, of whom Madame gave us a little 
account. Opposite the hotel is a convent. Did not recite our 
lesson this evening, as we had not learned it. 

[54] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, December 7 

Magnificent day. Directly after breakfast went to Rue 
Scribe and exchanged the notes. Went up the stair at the 
head of which is a picture of the Declaration of Independence, 
also a head of Abraham Lincoln as v/ell as of the present 
President of the United States. Opened a door which led 
into a passage wherein were many offices for business; was 
directed from one to another until the right one was gained. 
They were all at dejeuner when we arrived home again. 

In the P. M.. as we were busy with our lessons Monsieur 
tapped at the door; he had lost his French dictionary and 
was searching for it and thought possibly it had strayed into 
our room. As it had not, I lent him mine. He is trying to 
read an English edition of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Recited our 
lesson immediately after dinner. Monsieur was in a hum- 
orous mood and pronounced English with such an air that it 
was impossible to keep from laughing. He sipped his coffee, 
smoked his pipe, manufactured a procession of oiseaux out of 
bits of paper, at the same time giving good attention to our 
lesson. Such pert-looking birds! The faLther-oiseau, the 
moiher-oiseau, and the ''leetle" oiseaux all in a promenade. 
Master Olyphant came in after a while to see if we had 
finished our recitation and was filled with surprise and 
astonishment when Monsieur informed him that we were 
studying natural history also. 

Sunday, Decemher 8 

Attended the French service at the iSglise Evangelique, 
54 Rue de Provence, not far from the Grand Opera, with 
Ellie and Mrs. H. Went first to the Munroe Company, Rue 
Scribe with Mrs. Hubbard, who was expecting letters, but 

[55] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

found the banking-house closed, whence we proceeded to the 
church, which was well-filled. We found seats far up in front. 
The preacher, Rev. M. Bercier is a young man and very elo- 
quent, that is, in his manner, for I could not understand his 
discourse, though I understood many words. His text was in 
Romans 1; 16, ''Car je n'ai point honte de Tevangile de 
Christ; puisque c'est la puissance de Dieu pour le salut de 
tous ceux qui croient, preierement des Juifs et en suite des 
Grecs." 

On our return home encountered tout le monde on the 
Champs Elysees, men and women elegantly dressed, nursery 
maids with babies in their arms, myraids of prettily dressed 
children, some trundling their hoops, skipping ropes, spin- 
ning tops, etc. Met a little goat-team expressly for children, 
a tiny little barouche with seats for four besides the driver, 
drawn by four white goats. "We were tired enough when we 
arrived home. The family had been to cafe, and the salle a 
manger was filled with the fumes of Monsieur's pipe, but 
Armadine soon had our lunch ready for us and the room 
well aired. The proprietor of the establishment retired to 
the salon, from which he emerged after we had finished. 
Helped him to translate into French a part of a page of 
Uncle Tom's Cabin after which he helped me to translate 
into English some of La Belle Gabrielle. Charming day, 
rather cold, clear as a bell. 



Monday, December 9 

To-night while I was reciting my lesson, Anna brought 
me in on a plate a letter from Nettie, a very pleasant inter- 
ruption. Read it while Ellie and Monsieur translated a fable 
and then went out for a few minutes to sit with Mrs. Hubbard 
who was ill with a headache. She had just taken some medicine 

[56] 








Rev. Monsieur Bercier 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

j recommended by Madame and already felt better. Master 

Olyphant who escorted me to her room through Mr. Lampman 's, 

also came in while I remained. He is a droll chicken ! Yester- 

I day morning, as we were standing before the stove in the salle 

' a manger waiting for dejeuner to be served, he remarked upon 

the crusty bread we have to eat and said, ''Wouldn't it be 

[nice if Madame would make some of those nice warm biscuits 

I we have at home! Now I eat a good deal of bread, and it 

i comes rather hard on a fellow not to have hot biscuits once 

in a while ! ' ' 

Tuesday, December 10 

I This morning Mr. Lampman was very late at cafe, and on 
■looking for his ''skull and bones" which were not visible as 
usual, I concluded that he had performed his toilet so hastily 
jthat he had forgotten them, and accordingly remarked that he 
.:had not his most expressive and better teie. He responded, 
"You are mistaken, Mademoiselle," at the same time giving a 
flourish to his coat, which revealed the "grim, ungainly, 
gaunt and ominous looking badge." The gesture was fol- 
lowed by a suppressed laugh from the "dramatis personaB," 
who were in the secret, which was increased to an audible 
crescendo as Madame, who did not at all understand the 
matter in question, innocently corrected my expression, 
which was to the point under the circumstances, mak- 
ing quite a different remark out of the same words. 

After dejeuner walked to Mr. Griswold's to get a package 
jthat awaited us. Had a pleasant call. While we were there, 
|it began to snow and rain, and the streets became a perfect 
j glare of ice rendering it difficult for pedestrians to conduct 
|themselves in a dignified and upright manner. Mr. Griswold 
I called a cab for us, but our progress home was very deliberate 

[57] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

on account of the slippery state of the streets. We passed many 
drivers who had dismounted from their seats to lead their 
horses, some of the animals having fallen down. When we had 
descended about half-way the Rue de TArc de Triomphe our 
cocker followed their example, but even then it was so difficult 
for the poor beast to go along that we were not sorry when the 
cocker asked us to descend from the carriage and walk the re- 
maining distance, he carrying our package for us, and leaving 
his horse for a short time. It is against the rule for a cocker 
to leave his voiture at all. If a carriage is found standing 
without a driver, it is liable to be taken off by a policeman, 
who reports the delinquent to the '^ Company General," 
when he is either discharged from the service or fined. The 
other day in passing a cab-stand, I saw what I supposed to be 
a driver with something thrown over his face as if to protect 
it while sleeping, but the oppressive stillness which possessed : 
the figure caused a second glance, proving it to be only a 
''fig" to keep up an appearance for the benefit of the ser- 
geant de ville until the stray driver returned. 

Very cold to-day. A good deal of ice is floating down 
the Seine, which is a very dark and muddy-looking river. 
Pehaps it is not to be wondered at when we see all along a 
the banks the washing-boats with their proprietors busy at 1 
work splashing the clothes up and down, which seems to be i 
the method of cleasing linen. 

Wednesday, December 11 

Prince Leon dines here every Wednesday as regularly ? 
as an eight-day clock. Says he has been skating a good deal 1 
lately. Madame gives him a lesson in German every Wednes- 
day and Saturday afternoon. Madame gave us some little^^ 
items of French etiquette, for instance, the CountesS| 

[58] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Mniszech, called upon her one day, and not finding her at 
home, left her card, the corner of which was turned down 
to indicate that it was left by the Countess herself and not by 
one of her servants. When you are invited to dine, the hour 
being half -past six, you should never arrive at the house of 
your hostess before twenty minutes after six, that is, ten 
minutes before the time. 

Thursday, December 12 

Was awakened this morning, as I often am, by the noisy 
sparrows which here, as in London at this season, twitter 
and chirp as if their throats were lined with birch. They 
are so tame that they alight upon the window balustrades 
with the greatest impunity. There is a cockatoo in the win- 
dow, that chatters French, I suppose, as I do not understand 
a word. I have a tres-mauvaise habitude of saying ^'It il" 
for ^'11 est, "and Monsieur has taken the matter in hand and 
says I must pay one sou every time I do it. During my 
recitation I used the expression five times this evening to my 
utter confusion and dismay and to Monsieur's evident en- 
joyment. The last time, I bade him a hasty "Bon soir" and 
was about to withdraw to my chamber but was intercepted 
by Monsieur whom I encountered at the door jingling the 
contents of the petit panier to his favorite refrain, "Pour 
les pauvres, s'il vous plait" with an expression of extreme 
glee upon his countenance. As it was impossible to pass him, 
I went into the salon to make my escape by another door 
but encountered him again to my utter confusion. He varied 
his refrain long enough to say, "It il necessaire, mademoi- 
selle," the expression I had unfortunately used. As I re- 
turned to the other door I found it locked, and as he and 
Ellie, who was also trying to prevent my escape, came up, I 

[59] 



My life in PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was caught behind the door. They surrounded me, and being 
tired from standing, I sank softly down upon the floor, when 
they did the same. Monsieur at last stretched himself out in 
a comfortable attitude for keeping guard, when in a moment 
I started up and made my escape, as Monsieur could not rise 
quickly enough. As he vibrated in the entry between the 
doors of the salon and the salle a manger, I knocked softly 
upon Mr. Lampman's door and accepted his invitation to 
^'come in" but did not also ''to sit dov/n,'^ and making a 
hasty excuse for my seemingly strange conduct, passed out 
at another door leaving the gentleman with an expression of 
amused wonder on his figure as he sat in his study-chair with 
his book before him. I passed through the little entry in order 
to reach the stairs, when whom should I encounter but the 
ubiquitous Monsieur with the little panier, and singing the 
ditty with the refrain ''It il necessaire." I was obliged to 
retrace my steps and arrived in the salle a manger simultane- 
ously with Monsieur, who came in by another way. By this 
time. Master Robert, who is always on the lookout for un- 
usual circumstances, made his appearance and joined in the 
affair, and through a misunderstanding in regard to which 
side he favored. Monsieur found himself high and dry at 
the top of the stairs and myself about half-way down. He 
looked quite distressed that I had at last escaped, but I paid 
my five sous before leaving entriely. 

This morning at dejeuner Monsieur was later than usual, 
and I was hurrying away to avoid meeting him, much to the 
amusement of Madame, but on opening the hall door, whom 
should I see but my tormentor in an opposite room, which he 
had evidently just entered. He immediately left whatever 
he was about and hurried after me exclaiming, "Mademois- 
elle Stanton, Mademoiselle Stanton! it il necessaire." But I 

[60] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

shut the door quickly and ran down stairs. Presently the 
bell rang, and when I opened the door, there stood Ellie and 
Monsieur, the latter with his hat and overcoat on. He said 
he had just stopped to say, ''It il necessaire," and then ran 
down stairs. Alas ! it seems as if I should never overcome the 
habit. I have forfeited seven sous to-day. Even Monsieur 
seems incined to overlook it sometimes. If I do not talk at 
the table, he says "It il necessaire." Recited my lesson to- 
night and lost but one sou. Think I am improving. This 
afternoon as I sat in my room studying, there came a rap at 
the door and in answer to ''Come in," Monsieur entered, 
politely removing his hat. He came this time just before 
going out, to ask to look at "Saddler's Conversations," after 
which he thanked me and withdrew but could not resist 

I turning back to say before disappearing, "It il necessaire!" 
Madame says he is a perfect torment, and I am inclined to 

I agree with her. 



December 14 



Was late to cafe this morning, though the first in the 
salle a manger after Madame who was waiting for us. We 
I sat down as the cafe was ordered in immediately and had 
nearly finished before the others joined us. Mrs. Hubbard in- 
vited Ellie and me to come into her room in the afternoon, as 
she was to be quite alone. After dejeuner y Monsieur, having no 
lessons to give, said if I would like, he would read with me in 
La Belle Gahrielle. Of course I was delighted, as it is a very 
agreeable way of studying French ; so tout de suite after break- 
fast, I took my book to the salle a manger, where Monsieur 
already waited me with his pipe, and we read for the next 
two hours. Then I studied until half-past five, after which 
we went to Mrs. Hubbard's room. Mr. Lampman was just 

[6i] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

making his exit but returned in a few minutes. The room 
looked cheerful and inviting as usual with its bright open fire 
and easy chairs. The fire was sufficient without additional 
light, and v/e sat talking about various things. Mrs. Hubbard 
read me a few extracts from Paris en Amerique, a book 
which she is reading. She told me about the Opera of William 
Tell, which she had witnessed the previous evening, and the 
conversation took a theatrical turn; v/e discussed Mrs. Scott- 
Siddons, Rachel, Edwin Forrest, and Shakespeare until Anna 
came to announce dinner. Recited my lesson as usual and 
helped Monsieur to translate in Uncle Tom's Cabin. 

Sunday, December 15 

This afternoon Mr. Griswold called for us to accompany 
him to the Av. des Ternes, numero 88, about two minutes' 
walk from here. Mr. Lockie, one of the deacons at the 
chapel Rue Royale, explained the 4th chapter of Revelation 
in a manner beautiful, plain and practical. He is an Eng- 
lishman and one of the most interesting speakers I ever 
listened to, even if he did occasionally betray his nationality 
by misusing the letter "h." I must make a little note of his 
remarks, as I do not wish to forget them : 

When John was invited by the voice to ''come up 
hither," it is by no means probable that he was taken to 
heaven bodily. His body was still upon the Isle of Patmos, as 
he adds," and immediately I was in the spirit." Our bodies 
are here, but our spirits may be in China or in the most 
remote star etc. It is to be noticed that there is never any 
attempt made to describe the personal appearance of God. 
Such a thing would be impossible ; any such attempt would 
end in a caricature ; it would be sinful. To be sure his glory 
is described in the first clause of the third verse. The jasper 

[62] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

here mentioned is probably the diamond, a beautiful emblem 
of God's purity. It not only gleams in the light but seems to 
be light-giving. The sardonyx stone is red, an emblem of God's 
justice. God is not all mercy ; he is also just. An individual 
to be all-merciful would necessarily be unjust, but He is 
merciful as well. The rainbow is a beautiful emblem of his 
mercy. ''There was a rainbow round about the throne in 
sight like unto an emerald." Green is the color of mercy, 
and it seemed to be the prevailing color there, though not in 
the rainbows which we see. All these colors combined would 
produce white, an emblem of the purity of God. We are 
reminded by this rainbow of the bows and arrows used in 
ancient warfare. The bow is bent in the clouds in such a 
manner that the arrows of wrath would be turned away from 
us. Christ himself received them in his own heart ; they are 
turned from us to Him. The number seven is used to denote 
a perfection of anything. In the 6th verse the word, "beasts," 
is a most unfortunate translation. It probably means min- 
isters, those who have especially given themselves to the 
service of God. In the early days of Christianity, when the 
world was sunk in the darkness of heathenism, those men 
took their lives, as it were, in their hands. The first beast 
was like a lion, an emblem of boldness; the second, like a 
calf, an emblem of patient labor; the third, with a face like a 
man, not an angel. God sends men to preach to us, men like 
ourselves, who have felt as we feel, and can sympathize with 
us ; and the fourth, like a flying eagle, the bird that can fly 
the highest; that is the strongest-winged who goes nearest 
to the sun, fit emblem of what a minister should be. His 
prayers should be frequent and should rise to the very throne 
of God. They repeated ''Holy" three times, once for each of 
the Godhead, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. The 

[63] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

four and twenty elders cast their crowns before the throne. 
Those who are redeemed have each a crown prepared for 
them in heaven. It is there. Our crown will fit no head 
but ours. The throne is ours only, for us to sit upon etc. 

It is impossible to give by this anything more than a 
faint outline of what was said. This meeting was held in a 
pleasant room like the room in a private dwelling-house. A 
coal fire burned in the open grate, which, with the two 
candles placed upon the speaker's desk, was the only light. 
After the service, Mr. Griswold offered a short, earnest 
prayer and the exercises closed with singing. Mr. Griswold 
introduced us to the speaker and inquired respecting his re- 
sources for obtaining such a clear view of this mysterious 
chapter. He said he had a sort of a world-commentary which 
comprised the opinion of all the commentators, and certain 
things upon which they were all agreed he made ' ' note of. ' ' On 
the way home Mr. Griswold told me of a Bible class which meets 
once a week at the house of Rev. Mr, Hart on the Avenue de la 
Grande Armee where they have tea and get so interested in 
their discussions that it is often midnight before they close. 
He is going to call for me some Tuesday evening. Wished 
to know if I would aid them in an effort they are about to 
make to establish a Sabbath school. 

Monday, December 16 

After our lesson this evening. Monsieur proposed that 
we should translate some more of Ujncle Tom's Cabin. 
Monsieur translates very readily and pronounces very well. 
After he has put a sentence into French, he asks me to do 
the same. It is an excellent exercise, and I learn a good many 
words by this means. 

[64] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday, December 17 

Before diner went up to Mrs. Hubbard's room, as she had 
invited us. Master Olyphant was there writing his exercise. 
Mrs. Hubbard has taught me a very good way of tatting, much 
more brief than the one to which I have been accustomed. 
While I was there. Monsieur Chevalier came in to arrange the 
pendicle; the time passed quickly, and Anna soon appeared to 
announce diner. After dinner and while Anna was arranging 
the dining-room as usual for our lesson. Monsieur came to the 
little table where I was sitting, and while stuffing the tobacco 
into his pipe, demanded soberly, ^^Why have not your little 
legs to walk to-day?" He intended to say feet, but got the 
wrong word. I was taken with a sudden fit of laughing, 
and he added, ''Have you comprehended?" I concluded I 
had, better than he. Read two pages in Uncle Tom's Cabin, 
during which time there was an amusing competition about 
finding the words in the dictionary first. While we were thus 
engaged, Mr. Lampman came in for a few minutes to see how 
we were progressing, as he had heard Monsieur reading. Mr. 
Lampman and I have a tacit agreement to disagree always 
when we can conscientiously; therefore we are usually dis- 
puting, and I am sorry to add, he often gets the better of me. 
Said the other day he didn't see whatever I found to write 
about so much in my journal. Now, in the first place, he has no 
authority for knowing that I keep a journal, and in the 
second place, he had no right to make such a remark, and 
added that he could not write more than two or three lines 
a day, and he went out a great deal more than I did. I told 
him the reason was very clear to me; he had not so many 
interesting people to write about as I had. He abruptly left 
the room. ^ 

[6s] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, December 18 

Rainy and disagreeable. Studied all day and had the 
satisfaction of reciting a lesson very commendably, notwith- 
standing the interruptions. To-day at table, while disputing 
as usual with Mr. Lampman, I began a sentence but could not 
think of the next word I wished to use ; so paused a moment 
and then said, ''Misunderstanding, Madame, what is the 
French for that ? ' ' Madame, who did not think of the word 
at once slowly repeated, ''mis-under-standing," and 
Monsieur Chevalier, always ready to credit any allusion to 
one's having broken the rule, immediately presented the little 
pamer upon Mr. Lampman's desk saying, "Three sous for 
the panierV Monsieur pretended to be very much shocked 
when I refused to give the sous, and Mr. Lampman con- 
tinued to declare that mis-under-standing was three English 
words, until I verily believe Monsieur thought I had said 
them. After dinner when I entered the room, he began 
rattling the little panier and presented it for the three sous, 
and as I continued to refuse to pay, he sat down and opened 
the grammar to hear me recite. I happened to glance at 
him when he held up three fingers as a reminder, and each 
time the word trois occurred in the lesson, as it chanced to 
several times, he would repeat it significantly. "Quelque 
s'ecrit de trois manieres," said I, after a short cessation of 
hostilities. "Combien, Mademoiselle?" demanded Monsieur. 
Not thinking, I repeated, "trois," supposing he had not 
heard the number distinctly; when he maliciously repeated, 
"Qui, Mademoiselle, TROIS." While reading over my exer- 
cise, he would pause after every three words and give three 
significant puffs of smoke from his pipe and then continue 
in the same way. He is the most persevering tease I ever met 

m 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

with, notwithstanding which, I heaped coals of fire on his head 
by helping him translate in Uncle Tom's Cabin after the lesson 
was over, though as to that matter, it is quite as useful to me 
as translating a French work. Our employment was inter- 
rupted by Mr. Lampman in the next room, who told Monsieur 
it would afford him the greatest pleasure if he would come in 
and smoke with him. Monsieur thanked him but signified 
that he was more pleasantly engaged, but as it was ten o 'clock, 
I suggested that we pause here and translate another time. 
As I said, ''Bon soir," he remarked that my conscience 
would be more quiet if I paid the three sous, but I did not 
see it in that light. As I passed by the porcelain stove close 
beside the door, I spied his pipe lying on the marble top and 
could not resist the temptation to take it along with me un- 
perceived by the owner, who politely accompanied me to 
the stairs and thanked me with his accustomed grace, when, 
as I descended, I said I hoped he would have a good smoke 
with Mr. Lampman. My conscience almost smote me as I 
heard him overhead pacing hither and thither, probably 
engaged in an unsuccessful search; but then, it is not well 
that the teasing be confined all to one side; besides, he has 
half a dozen other pipes, more or less; but I fancy this is 
his favorite. 

As we sat at cafe, Monsieur entered the salle-a-manger, 
having just come from Master Olyphant's room, where he 
had been giving him a lesson, and where, in the meantime, 
he takes his coffee with his pupil, with his pipe and his 
petit haril of tobacco, with an air of complacent satisfaction 
quite provoking. 

Had company to dinner, Miss Rice, a young lady friend 
of Mrs. Hubbard's and Prince Leon Mniszech. Miss Rice 
was dressed in the height of Paris style, her hair arranged 

m 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

more fashionably than becomingly. She is exceedingly 
plain but ladylike and interesting. Reminded me very much 
of Mary Jane Manahan in voice and manner. Our little 
pawier was considerably enriched from the pocket of Mon- 
sieur Leon before the dinner was over, as is usually the case. 

December 19 

''Rainy and rough sets the day." Did not go out for a 
walk. Recited our lesson as usual and read with Monsieur 
Chevalier in Uncle Tom's Cabin. 

The new hlanchisseuse came to-day with our clothes, 
which looked very nice. Her face was tied up in a handker- 
chief and so swollen on one side that she could hardly see 
out of her eye from toothache. I gave the poor woman some 
''Pain Killer" and hope she will be better. 

This afternoon Madame Chevalier and Ellie having gone 
out for a walk, Mrs. Hubbard called to ask me to accompany 
her to the boulevards, as she wished to find a Christmas present 
for her little Harry. We were very soon ready and started at 
once. "We conversed in French nearly all the way, and I was 
delighted to comprehend nearly everything she said. The 
boulevards looked gay in anticipation of the Fete de Noel, 
which is so near. Tongue cannot tell the names and number 
of the knickknacks and bonbons that are displayed to the de- 
lighted gaze of children, old and young. It far surpasses 
everything I ever before beheld of the sort, and puts London 
quite in the background. Purchased a book for Ellie, ' ' Cecile 
ou la Petite Soeur, ' ' one of the series of the Bihlitheqiie Rose 
by Mme. Julie Gourand, for a Christmas gift. Recited our 
lesson in the evening but did not read in Uncle Tom's Cabin, 
as Monsieur said he had taken it with him to M. Leon's to 
look over a page beforehand that he might be enabled in the 

[68] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

evening to translate with the greater facility, and had for- 
gotten it when he came away. 

December 20 
Stormy and disagreeable. Did not go out. 

December 22 
Had letters from London but none from America. 

December 23 

Recited our lesson, after which I went into Mrs. 
Hubbard's room, where I found Madame Chevalier. Mon- 
sieur came in directly afterwards bringing his chair with 
him. Mrs. Hubbard showed me some letters written by her 
little boys at Fontainebleau. 

Tuesday, December 24 

Went to hear the ^^Messe de Minuit" with Monsieur 
Chevalier, Started about ten o'clock for the beautiful, beau- 
tiful Madeleine. The night was magnificent, and we con- 
cluded to walk. The belt of Orion, diamond-studded, flashed 
with wonderful brilliancy in the deep blue sky as if rejoicing 
in this occasion of ''Peace on earth and good will to men," 
and the drinking-cups seemed polished anew as they per- 
formed their never-ceasing tour around the Polar God, who 
with the same steady, unchanging eye, fixed and calm, had 
looked upon a scene w^hich had transpired more than 1800 
years ago. 

Arrived at the Madeleine, we went to a side-door which 
opened quite in the vicinity of the altar, but found it guarded 
by a sergeant de ville, who refused to admit another person. 
Through the glass doors we took a coup d'oeil at the interior, 

[69] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

blazing with candles and crowded with people, and then 
went round to the front, where we mounted the steps to the 
entrance, and found a little standing-place near the door, of 
which we availed ourselves only for a moment to take another 
view, and then started for the church of Saint Roch, where 
the singing is said to be even finer than at the Madeleine. Tout 
le monde was here assembled and whom should we encounter 
upon entering, but Mrs. Hubbard, Mr. Lampman and Miss 
Rice, who had arrived just in advance of us. By paying a few 
sous to an old woman who guarded the gate which led to the 
seats, we were allowed to pass the barrier and obtained excel- 
lent places in the immediate vicinity of the pulpit. This pulpit, 
by the way, is a unique and elegant affair; it is supported on 
the airy wings of a gilt angel, and over it is a canopy of 
floating marble drapery. Underneath is what at first strikes 
one as '^Daniel in the lions' den," only there is no "blue 
cotton umbrella" and there are four Daniels and only two 
lions, which would seem to suggest the ''lions in Daniel's 
den." They are, in fact, intended to represent the four 
evangelists in bronze. They are more than twice as large as 
life, and only half as natural. 

Opposite the pulpit there is a very large bronze figure 
of Christ upon the cross. Monsieur sat exactly vis-a-vis to 
one of the lions, which we christened "Monsieur Leon." 
Before the services commenced we spent the time in remark- 
ing about the people in our immediate vicinity, after laugh- 
ing at the comical effect of Monsieur's cane which he stood up 
beside the railing as a "tree" for his hat. It bore a startling 
resemblance to its proprietor, only that the extremely 
meager look was rather unnatural. A demoiselle at our right 
amused Monsieur a good deal by the arrangement and decora- 
tions over her hair. In lieu of a bonnet she had a sort of 



[70] 



J 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

girdle over her head, to which was attached a thin veil 
falling over her forehead, but not concealing her eyes, which 
strongly resembled onions as she stared about. 

At half past eleven a Predicateur in a white robe ascended 
the stairs which led to the pulpit and delivered a short 
address commencing, ' ' Nous sommes ici ; " I had the happiness 
of responding, ' ' Beaucoup, Monsieur, ' ' to Monsieur Chevalier, 
who asked ''Comprenez-vous, Mademoiselle?" At midnight 
all the candles were lighted, and the effect was magnificent. 
The different shrines and the paintings were rendered more 
distinctly visible than by daylight. The chanting also com- 
menced, so sweet, so thrilling, but every now and then the 
violent jingling of little bells, a signal for the worshippers to 
bow their heads, broke in discordantly. During the chanting 
the communicants went forward to the altar, where the 
sacrament was administered to them by a priest who slowly 
promenaded to and fro during the ceremony. We left as 
they were chanting the finale, in order to avoid the crowded 
^' exeunt.'^ Monsieur Chevalier was in rather a disputing 
mood on the way home, and Orion vs. Oreeon, scissors vs. canif, 
amiable vs. aimable were the subjects of discord. The little 
pendicle was just chiming two as I entered my chamber. 

December 25 

Decided to lie in bed this morning, rather than rise in 
season for cafe, but fortunately the meals were served in the 
same order as on Sunday, breakfast at ten and coffee at two 
o'clock; so I was up in season for breakfast. 

Mrs. Hubbard's little boys arrived yesterday from Fon- 
tainebleau to spend the holidays with their mamma, Willie 
about nine, and Harry about seven years old. Willie is a very 
handsome boy, and both speak French very nicely. Harry 

[71] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sits at the table between his mamma and me. The French 
manner of expressing themselves when they talk to children 
is particularly charming. Madame calls Harry "mon petit" 
when she asks if he will be helped again; and Ellie and 
Robert, she and Monsieur often address as ''mon enfant." 
This morning beside each plate was placed a stick of candy, 
the children having a double portion, besides each an orange ; 
at which the older ones were tempted to exclaim, '^Oh, would 
I were a child again ! ' ' They were all at table when I entered 
the salle a manger, excepting Mr. Lampman, who is usually 
late. Madame wished me a ''Bonne Fete de Noel," and Mrs. 
Hubbard ' ' A Merry Christmas, ' ' these two words being allowed 
without the usual penalty for speaking English. Monsieur ex- 
tended his little fat hand for a shake, at the same time wish- 
ing me a "good Christmas" for which he was obliged to 
contribute a sou to the panier, as no one had permission to use 
any other expression than "Merry Christmas." he paid the 
forfeit protesting in the meanwhile against the injustice. 
After dejeuner, I read with Monsieur Chevalier in a 
French chemistry until cafe was ready, after which Ellie and 
I went to call on the Griswolds. Met Mr. Lampman and Mr. 
Thompson on the Champs Elysees but did not see them until 
it was too late to return their saluations. At dmer Mr. Lamp- 
man demanded the reason for the "coup," a question not 
understood by Monsieur and Madame, who thinking it bad 
French, attempted to correct Mr. Lampman. But he informed 
them it was an Americanism which I well understood. Found 
the Griswolds all rather blue except the petite Annie, who is a 
charming little creature. Mrs. Griswold had been quite ill, but 
was able to have her sofa wheeled up to the dinner-table to 
celebrate Christmas. In the evening played chess with Mon- 
sieur Chevalier and beat him every time. He tried to detract 

[72] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

from my laurels by saying he had not played for eight years, 
and only remembered how to ''push the pieces." 

Deecemher 26 

Ellie went out with Monsieur and Madame, but I re- 
mained and wrote letters. Prince Leon was here in the even- 
I ing and we had a party of whist as usual. 

December 27 

j This afternoon Monsieur entertained us with French 

' anecdotes. In the evening went with us to see the boule- 
vards. Walked down the Champs Elysees, and the Rue de 

i Rivoli to the Rue de la Paix. The windows were filled with 
everything attractive, curious and beautiful, and we stood 
and admired the jewels, the pictures, the bonbons until we 

[seemed to be living in the days of genii and fairies. It was 
a perfect Arabian-Nights' Entertainment. Aladdin's won- 
derful lamp could not produce effects more gorgeous or 

[things more magnificent. Monsieur was in spirits the most 
vivacious. Took particular pains to keep out of step. If 
by accident he found himself with the left foot right, or the 
right- foot forward, he would immediately give a little hop to 
destroy the harmony. We crossed the streets in the most 
expeditious manner, not to lose any time for seeing the 
helles choses displayed on every side. The jewelers' windows 
were the most brilliant, and we gazed upon pearls, rubies, 

.and diamonds, watches of the most exquisite patterns, some 
no larger than a penny, pins, brooches, rings, and bracelets 
of the most original conception, sometimes tiny birds '-nests of 
gold lacework with eggs of pearl, sometimes brilliant-colored 

i insects. One set, of pin and ear-drops like tiny violins was 
exquisitely fashioned. Charming and bewildering as was 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

this display, it could not be compared to the flashing 
brilliancy of the boulevards. On either side were arranged 
houtiques, the proprietors of which, half hidden by their wares, 
proclaimed to all passers-by their cheapness and utility. Mon- 
sieur was spellbound before some pipes, but BUie succeeded in 
breaking the enchantment, and we passed on. It was eleven 
o'clock before we turned our steps homeward, and we had the 
Champs Elysees to ourselves. Monsieur amused us by singing 
in rather a low voice the Marseillaise, and pretending to defy 
the sergeants de ville, who passed to and fro on their beats 
We were tired enough to exclaim in the words of the poet, ,; 
"Bed, bed, delicious bed! thou heaven on earth to the weary / 
head!" when we entered our chamber. -^ 

Saturday, December 28 

This afternoon read in a French encyclopedia, which 
Monsieur took down from his library, an article on natural | 
history in reference to the chenille. By some turn of the sub- 
ject the "Barques" were introduced, the three weird sis- 
ters who preside over the fate of man ; and as we could only 
recall the name of Atropos, who cut the thread, Monsieur 
took down a mythology to search for the one who holds the 
distaff. Just then a caller was ushered into the salon and I 
continued my reading by myself until dinner was announced. 

Sunday, December 29 

Dull and disagreeable. We went to the Rue Royale and 
listened to an excellent sermon by Mr. Hart upon the wheat 
and the tares. It was solemn and impressive and particu- 
larly appropriate for the last Sabbath of the year. After the 
service, Mrs. Griswold introduced me to Mr. and Mrs. Hart, 
who gave me a very kind invitation to call on them at their I 

[74] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

residence on the Avenue de la Grande Armee. Did not go 
out after cafe, and sat in the salon, as it was too cold to 
sit in my chamber. Monsieur, who seemed to feel it was his 
duty to entertain me, suggested that we play a game of 
chess, a suggestion w^hich, of course, I did not listen to for a 
moment. 

December 30 

Have suffered the last two days with neuralgia in my 
face, and this morning, as the pain had gone away, indulged 
in sleeping until the second breakfast. As we sat at the table 
partaking of the meal. Monsieur entered bringing with him a 
strong smell of burnt paper. He had returned from a dejeuner 
with his "petit disciple," Prince Leon, and in order to be 
sociable, drew up his chair to the table between Mrs. Hubbard 
and Madame. The burning odor became so powerful that each 
began to look anxious, and Madame told Anna, who just then 
entered, to see if it proceeded from the kitchen, which she 
did ; but the voice of Amadine, the cuisiniere, reached us, say- 
ing it was not from her regions. Monsieur then went to look 
into the salon and returned saying there was no fire there. 
Mrs. Hubbard next rose from the table begging to be excused 
to see if, perchance, it came from her room. Just after she 
had left, Anna, who had reentered suddenly exclaimed "0 
Monsieur, Monsieur!" All eyes were turned to the pro- 
prietor of the establishment, who stopped in the midst of his 
investigations and looked bewildered, as Madame caught up 
his coat-tail, from which the smoke was issuing. Mrs. 
Hubbard hearing the hruit, returned to the dining-room, and 
we all regarded him with an expression of momentary con- 
sternation, which was quickly succeeded by a burst of laughter, 
as Madame held up the still smouldering ruins of what was 

[75] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

once the pocket of his coat. Monsieur clapped his hands be- 
hind him saying "Ma pipe! ma pipe!" He had put it into 
his pocket without extinguishing the fire in it, and in con- 
sequence it had burned its way out and completely dis- 
appeared! We came to the conclusion that it was a most 
comical ''tail of woe." Monsieur said he thought it felt a 
little chaud when he sat down. I thought of the illustrations 
in Tom Hood and laughed in spite of myself when I tried to 
look sober. Madame said it was not the first time he had set 
himself on fire with his pipe, and I suggested that he had 
better "beware of the third," or he might "end in smoke." 
Notwithstanding this scene, having occasion to go up to the 
dining room for my dictionary, I found Monsieur in his 
favorite corner by the stove "fuming" as usual. He thinks 
he shall not end in smoke but go to the Champs Elysees. 

Tuesday, Decemher 31 

Went out with Ellie after dinner to search for New 
Year's presents. Did some shopping and succeeded very 
well in making myself understood as well as in understand- 
ing. Walked nearly to the end of the Rue de Rivoli, paus- 
ing to admire the beautiful things in the shop-windows, but 
found it difficult to choose from so great a variety and 
purchased nothing but a pretty little portmonnaie for Ellie. 
Made a hasty call on the Griswolds, and arrived home a few 
moments before dtner. Encountered Anna in the hall, who 
informed us that a gentleman was in the salon who had been 
waiting since three o'clock to see us. Thinking it was the 
gentleman of whom Samu had written, who would bring us a 
package from London, and who would wish probably to board 
here, I began to arrange my toilette. While I was thus en- 
gaged Monsieur Chevalier came down from his chamber and 

[76] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tapped at our door, asking us to come up as soon as possible. I 
thought his manner was rather peculiar, but he did not wait 
to be questioned. I went up with Armadine to the door of 
her province, where she bestowed upon me looks of sympathetic 
delight as she went through an expressive pantomime for my 
edification, saying, "0 Mam'selle, mam'selle, toute suite, toute 
suite." When I entered the room who should greet my eyes, 
as large as life, but my brother Samu himself. Lo ! he was the 
gentleman who ''was acquainted with our cousins in New 
York" and whom we might expect Tuesday or New Year's ! Of 
course we forgave him very readily for this little deception, 
considering its happy termination. After dinner Samu, who 
had travelled all night, retired at an early hour ; so I went up- 
stairs and played chess with Monsieur Chevalier. In the course 
of the game I thought it best to demand a treve, which Mon- 
sieur thought best not to grant ; so we played on, and in conse- 
quence I was beaten. I conclude that Monsieur Chevalier's 
chessmen were manufactured for his own special convenience 
and for the utter confusion of every one who should play 
against him, for the only difference in the appearance of the 
knights and bishops is that the latter have the smaller 
heads ! Monsieur pretended to think I was a long time in 
moving and tried to confuse me as much as possible by say- 
ing the moment it was my turn, "Jouez! jouez. Mademois- 
elle!" Hence I was beaten while he only knew how ''to 
push the pieces ! " In the next game in the third move, I took 
his queen, which he refused to surrender. While we were 
in the midst of an animated discussion, the clock struck 
twelve, to my great consternation, and Monsieur's amuse- 
ment, for neither of us was aware of the lateness of the hour. 
The old year had given place to the New, and the veil which 
separated the dead past from the eternal future was rent, 

[77] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and we stood for a moment on the threshold. With mutual 
wishes for a Happy New Year, we "broke up." Monsieur 
starting for a light to illuminate the way as I descended to 
my room, stumbled over the hat-tree, which he nearly over- 
turned, with an immense racket in his attempts to move 
quietly. 



I 



[78] 



1868 

January 1 

Had a pleasant time at dejeuner this morning, wliich was 
at the same hour as on Sunday. Samu can talk German at 
the table with Madame ; so he does not have to pay fines for 
speaking English. Madame, however, gave us permission to 
speak English if we wished. After dejeuner, as I was too 
tired from my long promenade yesterday to go out this 
morning, Samu and EUie went without me to call on the 
Griswolds. I went up to the salon, and Master Olyphant 
coming in directly after, wanted me to play a game of chess 
with him. He plays very well, and before I was aware of his 
plot, my queen fell a victim, but owing to the little prince 
imperial's being escorted into the king row she was recalled 
to reign in his stead, which she did to the utter confusion of 
the opposing forces. 

In the window of the salon hangs a picture of stained 
glass. As I was standing before it. Monsieur came along and 
told me the story. It is of Saint Elizabeth, a very pious and 
devoted woman who gave many things to the poor. Her 
husband, who was a pagan, did not approve of his wife's acts 
of charity and forbade her to persevere in them. Moreover 
he was very cruel to her, so that she feared him much. She 
thought it right, however, to continue, and notwithstanding 
his command, did so secretly. One day she had started for 
the home of a poor woman who had nothing wherewith to 
buy food for herself and children, with her apron filled with 
bread. On the way she met her wicked husband who, stop- 

[79] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ping her, demanded what she was carrying in her apron. 
The poor woman was so frightened that she let her apron 
fall, when lo ! instead of bread, roses fresh and beautiful 
fell to the ground. Monsieur added devoutly, ''The Bon 
Dieu had changed them to shield the good Sainte Elizabeth 
from the wicked husband." The picture represents Ste. 
Elizabeth just in the act of letting her apron drop, and the 
roses are falling to the ground. 

After cafe we, Samu, Ellie and I, took a cab to the 
Bois de Boulogne to see the skaters. It was very cold, and 
we stood for only a few moments to watch them. Mr. Lamp- 
man and Robert Olyphant were both gliding over the ice, and 
came up to speak to us. The ice was bad, the skates were 
worse, and they found it the ''pursuit of pleasure under 
difficulties." In the vicinity of the ice were spread long 
tables, upon which were placed wine and cakes for the re- 
freshment of all who wished to partake. We soon after re- 
turned to our carriage, which was waiting for us, and pro- 
ceeded to the Tuileries to make the Emperor a New Year's 
call. The palace seemed quite deserted and after riding 
about in the courtyard, we concluded to postpone our call for 
the present, and accordingly dismissing our cocker we prome- 
naded along the gay streets, stopping to admire the pictures 
and see the other beautiful things displayed so lavishly on 
every side. 

Thursday, January 2 

After cafe, went out with Samu on a shopping tour. 
Purchased a little travelling bag for Louey, a feather duster, 
hairbrush, and some portmonnaies. Saw some lovely cycla- 
mens all in bloom, pink, white, and variegated. Samu 
would have purchased one, only it was too cold to transport 

[80] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

it. Went to '^ Charley 's " and breakfasted on buckwheat 
cakes and beefsteak. Met a Mr. Birch and his daughter 
there, of whom I had often heard Mrs. Hubbard speak. Mr. 
Birch and Samu discussed the philosophy of fogs etc. Vis- 
ited the Madeleine, the beautiful, which seems more like a 
theater than a church. The architecture is graceful in the 
extreme. While we were there, an old woman came and 
stood before one of the shrines, devoutly saying her prayers. 
Had I been an artist, I should have sketched the scene, as it 
was most picturesque. Went to Levitsky's, 22 Rue de 
Choiseul, one of the best artists in the city, to sit next day 
for our pictures. Monsieur Leon dined at Madame 's and spent 
the evening. We played whist as usual, Monsieur Chevalier 
and Samu meanwhile being engaged in chess. 

Friday, January 3 

Sat for our pictures and then started for the place for 
buckwheat cakes and pumpkin pies, a cosy little eating- 
saloon, tidy and inviting. A bright fire burned in the grate, 
as it was freezing-cold weather. The room is quite American 
in its furnishings. Upon the wall hangs a picture of Wash- 
ington overshadowed by the Stars and Stripes. Took a cab 
from here and return home, leaving Samu and Ellie to con- 
tinue their peregrinations. Mr. Lampman and Mrs. Hubbard 
took their first German lesson this evening of Madame Cheva- 
lier. Mr. Griswold made us a short call. 

Saturday, January 4 

A day of sightseeing. Visited first the Palais du Lux- 
embourg. A pleasant guide conducted us through the rooms 
open to the public. The Throne Room is beautifully gilded. 
Here and there upon the wall was a large ''N," the initial 

[8i] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of the first Napoleon. The velvet drapery about the room 
was thickly studded with golden bees, which supplant the 
Fleur de Lis of the Bourbons. The floor was so highly 
polished with wax that the reflections were as clear as in 
water. The Senate Chamber is equally elegant, and in de- 
sign not unlike our own at Washington. The floor is covered 
with a carpet of golden bees, which contrast beautifully with 
the groundwork of green. We passed down the aisles be- 
tween the semicircular benches, reading the names of dukes, 
counts, and other titled and noble dignitaries, who officiate 
in the places designated. The guide says it is impossible to 
obtain admission when the body is in session. The chapel, 
which was the last room we visited, is fine in its design 
and execution, graceful, elegant, and in such perfect har- 
mony, the frescoes, the columns, the altar, that you can only 
gaze in silent admiration. Started for the Gobelins, passing 
on our way the old church of St. Etienne-du-Mont, and seeing 
it open, we fortunately entered. It was the Fete of St. 
Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, who, according to the 
legend, saved the city once from fire. They were in the midst 
of the ceremonies as we entered. A procession, composed of a 
motley collection of old and young of both sexes, was march- 
ing through the aisles chanting. The church was beautifully 
decorated with blue draperies and the altar covered with 
flowers, real and artificial. The candles were burning, and 
the image of the patron saint flourished conspicuously. After 
the chanting procession was finished, another was formed 
headed by four demoiselles dressed in white, with lace veils and 
blue ribbons, who bore on their united shoulders a large 
image of the saint standing on a sort of platform. Other 
girls in white followed carrying flags on which were various 
inscriptions. Small boys in clerical robes bore wax tapers, 



[82] 



i 




The Louis Philippe Clock 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and here and there a priest was scattered in to add to the 
general effect. Sergeants de ville were in attendance to keep 
the crowd from filling the aisles and blocking the procession. 
As the image passed the place where we were standing, the 
good Catholics in onr immediate vicinity pressed eagerly 
forward to touch it with their prayer books or handker- 
chiefs, and when they were unable to do it for themselves, 
the sergeants de ville kindly officiated for them. This cere- 
mony over, the priests approached the altar upon which had 
been placed this image, crossed themselves, said something 
in Latin, bowed their heads, etc. etc. A young official, in 
something looking very much like a night-shirt, then brought 
to the priest a brazen censer to which was attached a long 
chain of the same metal. Little boys in a similar undress 
stood on either side holding long tapers. The priest took 
the censer, lighted the incense contained therein, and as it 
smoked, threw the censer in the air in front of the image and 
then returned it to the young official who continued the cere- 
mony while the priest chanted and the people made 
responses. We left them at this stage and proceeded to the 
Gobelins, where our passes were demanded by the guard, 
much to our astonishment, as we were not aware that they 
were required. The guard informed us that the Emperor 
had given orders that through the Exposition it should be 
open to all without passes, but the order had been revoked since 
its close, and passes were required as formerly. Samu told 
him we were Americans, and it was the only opportunity for 
seeing the tapestries before leaving town, which touched the 
heart of the guard, who told us to pass in, which we accord- 
ingly did, and were exceedingly entertained in looking at 
these adornments for kings' houses only, and in watching the 
process of their manufacture. The first piece which we saw 

[83] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was from a painting of Raphael's, ^^L'Assemblee des 
Dieux/' where Love pleads the cause of Psyche before 
Jupiter. There was a beautiful life-sized portrait of the 
Empress Eugenie in court costume, a robe of green velvet, 
with a necklace of pearls and diamonds. Her left hand rests 
lightly upon the crown imperial, which is placed upon a 
table. This tapestry was the work of four years. A corres- 
ponding one of the Emperor Napoleon III. hangs near it. In 
one of the departments they were renewing a piece of 
tapestry made in the time of Louis XIV. When any piece 
of tapestry contains in its design anything especially signi- 
ficant of a certain reign, the next dynasty has it taken out 
and made over. 

We next proceeded to the Hotel de Cluny, where our 
passes were again demanded, but the magic word ''Ameri- 
can" opened the doors. The Hotel de Cluny was built by the 
Abbots of Cluny in the last half of the 15th century. The 
floors, as in all the palaces here, were waxed. The fire- 
places are so huge that a whole forest of Yule logs could 
easily make their exit through the chimney. The fire that 
burned in each failed to dispense much heat outside its im- 
mediate vicinity, and we were nearly frozen when we had 
completed the tour of the rooms. We saw, among many 
other curious and beautiful things, specimens of Cluny lace, 
vases, various utensils from Pompeii, and the Parques about 
whom I chanced to read a few days ago. The eldest holds 
the distaff, the second pulls the thread, and the third cuts it. 
Some carriages of the 17th and 18th centuries, beautifully 
painted and ornamented with gold, sledges, sedan chairs, one 
said to have belonged to Lucretia Borgia, though when the 
guide made this announcement, a German in the party ex- 
pressed his disbelief so sarcastically that my faith tottered. 

[84] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Some very old tapestries adorn the walls of many of the 
rooms. The Hall, especially interesting, was the one in which 
Julian the Apostate was declared President of the Republic. 
A hasty walk through the garden where were many speci- 
mens of architecture brought from Rome, fragments of 
columns etc., finished our visit here. We made a short call 
at Mr. Griswold's and returned home. Spent a pleasant even- 
ing. Samu and Monsieur Chevalier played chess. 

Sunday, January 5 

It snowed all day and we did not go out at all. The 
bright fire in Samu's chamber was more ornamental than 
useful, for we could keep only one side warm at once. After 
dinner. Monsieur expanded on the head of Mr. Lampman's 
giving up French for German, which does not at all meet 
with Monsieur's approval. He thinks Mr. Lampman has al- 
ready lost ground, and called our attention to the unusually 
hesitating manner in which he had conversed at table. 
Samu has made such remarkable progress in French that he 
could understand almost all that Monsieur said. 

Monday, January 6 

Samu left for London this afternoon, Ellie, Madame 
Chevalier, and I accompanying him to the station. Went to 
Munroe & Co. 's to inquire for letters for Mrs. Hubbard ; none 
there. Made a few shopping calls with Madame and then 
drove home. At half -past four went with Monsieur, Madame, 
M^rs. Hubbard, and Ellie to the Convent, the ''Congregation 
of Notre Dame ' ' on the Ave. Hortense to witness the celebra- 
tion in honor of the Magi who went to Jerusalem to worship 
the Infant Jesus. Monsieur put on his white scarf, which he 
dons only on state occasions. However, as no gentlemen are 

[85] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

admitted into the sacred precints of this Holy of Holies ex- 
cepting those who minister in the priest's office, we left him 
outside to continue his promenade, while we, after passing 
through various windings, found ourselves in a gallery over- 
looking a pretty little chapel beautifully lighted. Presently 
a procession of nuns appeared from somewhere and marched 
down the aisle slowly and solemnly, nuns in black and nuns 
in white veils. Some seated themselves at once ; others knelt 
for devotions. The Lady Superior occupied a sort of throne, 
a chair a little apart from the rest. Then scholars belonging to 
the convent came in and seated themselves. Many of the nuns 
Madame informed us, are of high birth, and most of the 
children who attend the school belong to the French nobility. 
An English nun officiated at the organ, which she played with 
much skill. The singing and chanting were beautiful; one 
voice especially was remarkably rich and clear and would 
have done credit to a Prima Donna. A priest then entered 
dressed in his state robes, and mounting a little rostrum, 
discoursed for about half an hour. Madame reported 
that he said the "most excellent and good things." 
After this he descended and went up the steps leading to the 
altar, where he knelt before an image for a few minutes. An 
assistant presently brought a censer filled with incense which 
the priest proceeded to light. He then took it in his hand 
and waved it back and forth before the altar until the air 
was fragrant with the perfume. After more chanting etc., 
the exercises were closed, and we followed the example of 
the nuns and left the chapel. Found Monsieur waiting for 
us outside. After dinner played a game of chess with Mon- 
sieur and beat him. 

[S6] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday, January 7 

Commenced our lessons again. Played two games of 
cliess, Monsieur winning both. He takes great delight in 
confusing me when he has the advantage by saying, ''Jouez! 
jouez !" Madame is not at all well; her lungs are weak, and 
the least exertion wearies her. To-night Monsieur would not 
consent for her to drink her usual cup of coffee after dinner, 
though she asked him with her most fascinating smile. 

Wednesday, January 8 

Dull and disagreeable. Studied all day, and did not go 
out. Monsieur came to our room to arrange the "pendule" 
which is too slow. Played chess after my lesson. One of the 
games was a sort of draw-game, as neither of us would give 
up and move differently, each thinking the other had the 
advantage and ought to give in. I suggested that we turn 
the board round and change sides, to which Monsieur agreed, 
saying it was the same as a new game, and whoever beat 
should have the glory and he would move first. I protested 
and said the one who made the first move would surely get 
beaten. But as he insisted, I accorded and came off tri- 
umphant. 

Thursday, January 9 
Read this evening in La Belle Gahrielle. 

Friday, January 10 

The day passed in the usual way, cafe, study, dejeuner, 
study, dinner, lesson, peiiie lecture in La Belle Gahrielle. Bon 
Soir. , 

D87] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ScDturday, January 11 

Have been suffering for the last two days with a cold, 
and this morning before I was up, Madame sent Armadine 
down with a pleasant medicine composed of eggs, milk and 
sugar boiled together, to be taken while hot. Did not go up 
to cafe, and Madame sent that down also, but I did not take 
it. Rose just in time to dress for dejeuner. Monsieur is hav- 
ing a vacation, his "little disciple" having gone out of town 
for a few days hunting with his papa. So Monsieur accom- 
panied Mrs. Hubbard, Mr. Lampman, Robert, Ellie, and my- 
self to St. Denis, the Westminster Abbey of Paris, where all 
the kings of France have been interred. St. Denis is a very 
dirty town, about fourteen minutes by chemin de fer from 
Paris. The walking was intolerable and the smells compara- 
tively more so. The Cathedral is undergoing extensive 
repairs, and much of it is closed to the public. The guide 
who showed us about had a set of teeth in his head that made 
such a clattering every time he spoke, it was not only difficult 
to understand him but very disagreeable to listen to his 
remarks. He was a nice-looking, elderly person, though, in 
a black velvet smoking-cap. Some of the frescoes and some 
of the stained-glass windows are magnificent. He unlocked 
a suite of cupboards, and by the light of a dripping tallow 
candle, showed us some very interesting things : facsimiles 
of crowns worn by different emperors and kings, and the 
bones of St. Denis and other saints. The room containing the 
oil paintings was unfortunately filled with smoke, so we did 
not much enjoy this part of the sightseeing. The chapel is 
adorned with statues of the twelve apostles. After seeing 
all that was to be seen in the church, we returned to the 
station where we waited about half an hour for the train. 

[88] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Mr. Lampman showed his nationality by peering into every 
nook and corner of the waiting-room in search of something 
new. Mrs. Hubbard and I tried ''hop, skip" while Mr. 
Lampman would delight to intercept us in a very accidental 
manner, Monsieur officiating in the meanwhile as spectator. 
The whistle put an end to these proceedings, and we were soon 
again in Paris. Mr. Lampman and Mrs. Hubbard went to- 
gether in one direction for Munroe and Co.'s while the rest 
of us started for home in another, after making polite adieus. 
On the way we entered the church of St. Vincent de Paul by 
a side-door. Our first glance revealed Mr. Lampman and 
Mrs. Hubbard, who had entered by the front door. The 
church is stiff and angular in its architecture, though rather 
elegant. We walked home and after dinner were tired 
enough to retire early. 

Sunday, January 12 

Mr. Packer of New York, a friend of Mr. Lampman, was 
here at cafe to-day. He is a son of the founder of the famous 
Packer Institute of New York and is very pleasing in his 
manners. In the evening read aloud to Monsieur from a 
French journal while he smoked his pipe. Madame sat down 
at the table with a pack of cards and played the Napoleon 
game of Patience, as she would have done on a week day. 
Retired early. 

Monday, January 13 

Made some paper nuns from a pattern Madame had 
given her by a friend. The pattern represents the nuns of 
the church of St. Vincent de Paul. Read in La Belle Gabri- 
elle and beat Monsieur at chess. 

[«9] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday y January 14 

Tout le monde started for Versailles immediately afteF 
breakfast, Monsieur officiating as escort. After providing our- 
selves with first-class tickets we all for the fun of it rode third- 
class on the top of the wagon. We had a fine view of the sur- 
rounding country as the train dashed along. The top was i 
covered; so we were well protected from the wind, but the i 
tunnels through which we had to pass were not an agreeable 
feature of our journey. As we were now and then in the 
middle of one where the darkness rendered objects invisible, 
we heard sounds somewhat resembling the bursting of a 
torpedo, but when we emerged into the daylight, Mr. Lamp- 
man, the perpetrator, looked about him with astonishment 
and suspicion and an expression of interrogation which set 
us all laughing. 

The Arc de Triomphe loomed up distinctly when we 
were miles from it. Monsieur was a very agreeable travel- 
ling companion, as he gave us little items of interest respect- 
ing the various towns through which we passed. Arrived at 
Versailles, we took a carriage to the Grand Trianon. En- 
joyed the ride through the beautiful park more than the 
half -hour's waiting at the gates for admittance, the gates not 
being open until twelve. A gendarme paced back and forth 
with his gun upon his shoulder, dressed in zouave costume. . 
It was in vain that we suggested to him the propriety of let- 
ting us enter before the time; in vain that Mrs. Hubbard 1 
showed him her watch, which she had set ahead. He smiled I, 
incredulously and shook his head and seemed to enjoy this i 
little variety to his monotonous beat exceedingly. "We ) 
passed the time in explorations, promenades, etc., and when ) 
the public clock at last sounded the hour, instead of opening 

[90] 






MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the gates and bidding us enter, lie laughingly responded to 
our demands as to why he did not let us in by saying that it 
was not his office to open the gates. Of course he was per- 
fectly right in obeying orders, but we were none the less 
annoyed at being kept outside longer than was necessary. 
So Mr. Lampman spying another man, the person designated 
to him as the gate-keeper, by the guard, started off with the 
intention of ''blowing him up." We all followed after, but 
the old man let us in so innocently and unsuspectingly, that 
Mr. Lampman concluded to overlook his negligence this 
time. Went over the rooms which are full of beautiful and 
interesting things. The one most interesting was the sleep- 
ing-room of Napoleon I., prettily but simply furnished, in 
which were the chair and table so much used by him. In 
another department we saw the very state carriage in which 
he conveyed Josephine to Malmaison and another which was 
used on the occasion of his marriage with Marie Louise. 
From here walked through heaps of mud to the Palace of 
Versailles, in which we sav/ the whole history of France in 
miles of pictures, some beautiful beyond description; one, 
for instance, of Joan of Arc with a face full of inspiration. 
A painting by Horace Yernet entitled "The Surprise in the 
Camp of Abdel Kader," in which the principal figure is a 
robber hastening away with a bag of gold, is not especially 
interesting except for the story connected with it. It is re- 
lated that Rothschild requested Vernet to paint his portrait 
but considered the reasonable price asked by the artist as a 
compensation too great a draft upon his meager purse. The 
artist was so disgusted with his parsimony that he told him 
he would paint him for nothing, an offer so pleasing to the 
Jew, that he thanked him for his generosity. Accordingly 
he is represented as the robber hurrying away with the bag 

[91] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of money clutched tightly in his hand, his face painted upon 
the canvas, full front view, and an unmistakable likeness! 
Monsieur, as usual, was an interesting escort, as he had 
French history at his tongue's end, as well as various other 
things too numerous to mention. The gallery of portraits 
in which I was most interested, unfortunately for me came 
last, and we were obliged to hasten through it, only glanc- 
ing at pictures that one might study for hours. One picture 
represented Napoleon I. with the present Emperor upon his 
knees and surrounded by other children. Another, Marie 
Louise and the King of Rome, the latter a beautiful, intellec- 
tual, chubby-faced boy of three years. Another Napoleon I. 
in his robes of state, crimson velvet spotted with gold bees, 
lined and trimmed with ermine, the velvet so perfectly repre- 
sented that it seemed like the real fabric falling in soft, 
heavy folds. The present Emperor with his unreadable, 
neutral face, cold, emotionless, unsusceptible but with such 
a power of latent expression. I never saw such a face. Be- 
side it is one of the Empress Eugenie, the figure dressed in 
state robes of green velvet, always graceful, the face quite 
as difficult to read, though less deep in expression. Others 
of the Princess Matilda, Princess Clotilde and her husband, 
the Prince Napoleon, Princess Matilda, sister of Prince 
Napoleon, has a hotel on the Ave. Friedland, not far from the 
Rue de I'Arc de Triomphe, in front of which a sentinel is 
always pacing. There are portraits of our own countrymen, 
Webster, Clay, Calhoun, Hamilton, Jay, John Q. Adams, 
Franklin and Washington, besides many others too numerous 
to mention. We paused here and there in the deep re- 
cesses of the windows to admire the different views of the 
gardens. The Little Trianon was not open to visitors that 
day, owing to the demoralized state of the roads; therefore 

[92] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

we were disappointed in regard to seeing that most interesting 
place. We started a little after four o'clock for the station, 
attacking on our way a patissier's, where we satisfied the 
cravings of nature with various cakes, pies, etc., in a manner 
sudden and unexpected to the proprietress, who waited upon 
us with French politeness, but who was evidently unaccus- 
tomed to such a raid. After waiting about half an hour 
in the station, found ourselves cosily disposed upon the soft 
cushions of the wagon, the French name for the American 
ear or English carriage, which we found very comfortable 
after our long day of sightseeing. We sang, "In the prison 
cell I sit" and "Hang Jeff Davis to a sour-apple tree" and 
arrived home a little after six. 

After dinner Madame Chevalier, Mrs. Hubbard, and 
Robert Olyphant all chanced to meet in my room. Mrs. 
Hubbard came to see the photographs, Madame to see what 
Mrs. Hubbard thought of them, and Robert because he wan- 
ders about like a comet and chanced to pull up there. We all 
retired early, being too tired to be sociable. 

Wednesday, January 15 

While we were reciting our lesson this evening, Madame 
received some tickets to the theater from the Princess 
Soulkowska, who offered her box also. The tickets were 
brought by her governess, who was to act as escort. Madame 
invited Mrs. Hubbard and me to accompany her, which we 
accordingly did, dressing as expeditiously as possible, as the 
carriage was waiting at the door. We arrived during the 
first act, when two persons were on the stage dressed in the 
costume of the Empire, which is not very unlike the present 
fashion, short dress, short waists, and hair arranged on the 
top of the head. One figure was in white satin, the other in 

[93] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



1 



green. The play was entitled '^Les Treize," and the acting 
was very fine. The scenery in the last act was sublime. It 
represented the ocean in a dark night during a storm. The 
waves rolled and dashed against the rocky cliffs. Upon the 
summit of one of these cliffs was a convent in which one of 
the heroines was shut up. A boat presently appeared upon 
the waves, and when it reached the rocky shore, the occu- 
pants disembarked and scaled the rocks, disappearing from 
view and again appearing upon a higher elevation. It was 
weird and solemn. Another scene in which the heroine was 
obliged to choose between her husband and father, the latter 
a convict, who reminded us of Jean Valjean, was thrilling 
and finely acted. We found Monsieur waiting for us at the 
door after the play was over. He had been present during 
the last act and enjoyed informing us of the fact after 
drawing from us enthusiastic descriptions. On our way 
home we discussed the play and after that the Pope, Madame 
and the Governess of the Princess taking the Catholic side. 
The latter is an English lady, formerly a Protestant but now 
a rigid Catholic. She has been in Paris for nine years and 
speaks French pleasantly and with ease. She informed us 
that she had been presented to the Pope. After leaving her 
at her residence. Monsieur dismounted from his seat beside 
the coachman and came inside. It was after midnight, and 
the next day being market day, the wagons laden with pro- 
duce were arriving from the country, while men and women 
were already busy arranging their various stalls. 



Thursday, January 16 

Monsieur Chevalier offered to accompany us to the 
Louvre, and we took an omnibus for that place at the Arc de 
Triomphe. Spent the time in the room containing the coats, 

[94] 



I 



J 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

hats, swords, and guns, besides many other things which had 
belonged to Napoleon I. Saw his hahit gris, also the handker- 
chief he last touched before he died, his watch, scissors, and 
various other personal articles, his Code, his velvet coat, and 
robes of state. Also saw a slipper worn by Marie Antoinette, 
and some toys, one, a small brass cannon with which 
her children had played. We remained until the officials 
came in to v/arn visitors that the time had arrived for clos- 
ing. 

Traversing the courtyard, we visited the church of St. 
Germain I'Auxerrois, the bell of which rang at the Massacre 
of St. Bartholomew in 1572. It has beautiful stained-glass 
windows and seems a cosy rather than a spacious eglise. Mon- 
sieur dipped his finger in a basin of holy water which stood 
near the entrance and crossed himself. 

January 17 

Studied all day. Read, after our lesson, from the great 
letter ''B" some interesting anecdotes from the life of Bona- 
parte. Played a game of chess, and in the struggle broke 
the neck of the black king. 

Sunday f January 19 

Attended service at a church on the Rue Royale, where 
Lord Radstock, an evangelist preached. He was earnest and 
rather interesting, though he seemed illiterate, mis- 
pronouncing many of his words, like ''jist" for just, which 
appears rather singular for a man in his position. He did not 
have the English brogue at all but spoke with a Yankee 
accent. Read in the evening with Monsieur from the great 
letter '^B." 

[95] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



Monday, January 20 

Lesson all went out of my head to-night, or rather, in 
sisted upon remaining in, instead of coming out by way of my 
mouth. Played two games of chess and was beaten in both. 
A party of singers came into the court and sang most beau- 
tifully for half an hour. The woman of the party had a 
magnificent voice, strong, sweet, clear, and evidently culti- 
vated. Madame said her pronunciation was very fine. The 
sous rained down from the delighted listeners, and they must 
have realized large profits if they are as well compensated 
in every place. 

Tuesday, January 21 

Took a cab, and on our way to Levitsky's called at the 
Griswolds. Found only Mrs. Gleason and Annie at home. 
Showed Mrs. Gleason our photograph proofs. Little Annie 
recognized them all and seemed delighted to see ''uncle," as 
she called Samu. Ellie is to sit again to-morrow if the 
weather is fine. Did some shopping and breakfasted at 
''Charley's" on buckwheat cakes. In the evening at diner, 
when ioui le monde asked of me the usual question, "Etes- 
vous sortie?" Monsieur, as is his custom answered for me. 
He said that he had received news that I had been seen in the 
vicinity of the Madeleine at the head of a grand movement, 
a second Joan of Arc, and probably the evening papers 
would give an account of the proceedings. He had feared as 
we did not return to dejeuner that we were lost, but he had 
received word since that time of our proceedings. It was 
true that near the Madeleine we passed a regiment of sol- 
diers, who were headed by a band, and I wondered how 
Monsieur knew anything about us; but to my inquiries as to 

[96] 



1 



I 




Mr. and Mrs. Griswold, 

"Little Annie," 

and 

Mrs. Gleason 



f 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the source of his information, he said there was a police 
force here who took note of everything that resembled an 
insurrection, and that was all I could get out of him. Did 
not recite a lesson but read in the letter ' ' B. " At dtner there 
was a conspiracy to rob me of a sou for a word that I did not 
say. Monsieur shook the panier before my plate until he was 
tired, then set it down at a suggestive distance. Mrs. 
Hubbard slyly smuggled her hand into my pocket and took 
therefrom my ivory tablet, purse, and a little pocket-pin- 
cushion which I had freshly replenished with pins. Mr. 
Lampman by an agile movement pocketed the latter saying 
it was just what he had needed for a long time. Mrs. 
Hubbard returned as much as possible of the robbery, being 
shocked at the disappearance of the pincushion and having a 
little spark of celestial fire called conscience; but Mr. 
Lampman keeps his booty. He gives me coups de pied sous la 
table, and when I complain to Madame, assumes an innocent 
expression and looks for my feet under his chair and behind 
him ! He and Monsieur entertained the company by trying 
which could tell the biggest story. It began by Monsieur's 
telling of some vegetable which grew remarkably large in 
Prance, rather astonishing, but nevertheless true. Mr. 
Lampman said that was nothing compared to the potatoes 
in America. One of the potatoes on his grandfather's farm 
in Coxsackie grew two years, and at the end of that time it 
was so large that it was almost impossible to pull it up, and 
when at last they succeeded, the shock was so great that the 
whole town was destroyed. It had to be washed in Niagara 
Falls and cooked in one of the great lakes, and his father dis- 
tributed a great deal of it amongst the poor during the 
winter. Monsieur asked how they heated the water in the 
lake to cook the potato. He said, ^'Oh, there was a coal mine 

[97] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

underneath, and they just lighted that!" Monsieur pre- 
tended to believe it all, as America is a wonderful country 
but he did not attempt to match it by telling another. 






Wednesday, January 22 

Madame being ill this morning was not present at cafe, 
at which Monsieur pretended to preside; but "when the 
cat's away, the mice will play," and he was as wild as the 
rest. At dejeuner Madame inquired as to the cause of the 
grand hruit which she had heard, but could obtain no correct 
information, though the most of it was perfectly reliable. 
Went with Ellie, who sat for her pictures and returned just 
in time for dejeuner. As I was seating myself at the table, 
Mr. Lampman, who has, as Madame says, no fear of any- 
thing, congratulated me on my bewitching expression; 
thought I had not lost it since sitting for my picture. I had 
the satisfaction of disabusing his mind from the erroneous 
impression under which it was laboring by informing him 
that not I but Ellie had been sitting for a picture, and it 
must be my natural expression. He makes a great display 
of lending pins to everybody and flourishes my pocket-friend 
in the most provoking manner. After dejeuner talked with 
Madame about music, then about convents. She says if 
Monsieur should die before herself she would enter a con- 
vent; then about Catholicism vs. Protestantism. I think 
Madame is a good Protestant, though she declares she is a 
Catholic, but not good enough. When Monsieur came in, 
he said he would go to walk with us between the lessons of 
Mrs. Hubbard and Monsieur Leon if we could be ready. Of 
course we could. He took us to a new part of the city and showed 
us the plan of what was to be. It was very windy. Went to 
the lake in the beautiful Pare de Monceau and watched the 

[98] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

canards, of which there are several varieties, swimming about. 
The lake has its source in a little spring not far off, which 
bubbles up from the ground. There is a large evergreen 
enclosure around it and seats for those who wish to rest 
themselves. We did not avail ourselves of them, however, 
but visited the artificial cave which is true to nature with its 
stalagmites and stalactites and the water dripping from the 
walls. Explored its depth and then mounted to the top. After 
enjoying the view, started for a picturesque bridge near by, 
where we stood for some time looking over the water. We 
remained here after Monsieur left us for Prince Leon's. 
Troops of happy children skipped along the broad avenues, 
their nurses keeping watch over them. Some of the seats 
were occupied by women with their sewdng. Prince Leon 
dined with us. Gave an account of the chase. He was un- 
successful in his shots and did not capture any game. The 
big stories were recommenced by Mr. Lampman and Mon- 
sieur, the latter telling of some remarkable shots of his on 
the Pyrenees, where one shot killed seven bears, passing into 
the mouth of the first and so on ! Mr. Lampman then related 
the remarkable success which attended the hunting expedi- 
tion of his friend, the Emperor of China ! when they went out 
together. Monsieur Leon informed me that he saw me yester- 
day in a voiture near the Madeleine. . Voild, the source of Mon- 
sieur Chevalier 's information ! 

Thursday, January 23 

Mrs. Hubbard broke to-day a wine glass, spilling the 
contents upon the tablecloth. She was taking some things 
away from Mr. Lampman in retaliation for some of his mis- 
demeanors. At dinner Madame broke a carafe, most of 
the contents of which lodged in her plate. Mr. Lampman 

[99] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

does not like mustard ; so Mrs. Hubbard helps him to some in 
return for the sly coups de pied which he administers to us 
from time to time under the table. Madame gave us an 
interesting account of ''once upon a time" when she went to 
the chase, the company all dressed in costume, the sagacity of 
the dogs, etc. It was a deer hunt. Read in the evening ''A 
Crisis." 

Friday, January 24 
Snow! 

Saturday, January 25 

The mild and pleasant weather which we have enjoyed 
for the past few days has given place to ice and snow. 
Madame had expressed her opinion that the winter was over, 
but she was rather premature. 

Sunday, January 26 

Attended service on the Rue Royale, where Rev. Mr. 
Hart preached from John 4. 42. Sat in the same pew with 
Mrs. Gleason and Mr. and Mrs. Griswold. Spoke with Mr. 
and Mrs. Hart after the service. Walked home via Champs 
Elysees, which was gay with promenaders. Conspicious 
among them were the nurses in their white caps and aprons, 
who looked as if they had just stepped out of a bandbox 
with their babies so fresh and clean. There is evidently a 
sort of competition in this class of society in regard to aprons 
and caps which seem to be their livery. Aprons starched, 
embroidered and ruffled always white as snow ; caps of lace 
or mousseline trimmed with gay ribbons of pink or blue. 
Babies in white, babies in blue, babies in pink in their arms 
for an airing. Met two goat-carriages for the benefit of the 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

children who will patronize them, stylish little outfits with a 
place for the footman behind. Met the handsome Prince 
Leon who raised his hat with extreme grace, as did also the 
gentleman with him. Did not go out after cafe. Sat in the 
salon with Monsieur and Madame. Read in the evening 
from ''Les Bons Enfants." 

Monday, January 27 

In bed all day with face-ache which was anything but 
agreeable. Mrs. Griswold called. Good Madame came in 
and bathed my face with chloroform but with no beneficial 
effect. 

Tuesday, January 28 

Monsieur told me at dinner that it was raining and the 
walking was shocking, but he had to go on a commission 
near the Madeleine, and he thought it would benefit me to 
accompany him! I thought he was joking but verily be- 
lieve he was in sober earnest, as he said I must put on some 
very thick boots, a walking-dress etc. He appealed to 
Madame asking if she did not think it would do me good, 
but she did not agree with him. At dinner Mr. Lampman 
gave us an account of his experience in taking a Russian 
bath. It was very amusing, and Mrs. Hubbard and I decided 
to go ourselves sometime this week. To-night I innocently 
asked Monsieur to allow me to take a little salt from the dish 
with which he was playing, as it was the one intended for 
my use. He hastened to apologize for the monopoly and to 
compensate for the trouble I had had in asking, took all the 
salts in his vicinity and put them by my plate. Mrs. 
Hubbard assisted him by adding two peppers and the mus- 
tard, and Mr. Lampman generously sent over his glass of 

[lOl] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

wine ! It was done so quietly as to escape the notice of 
Madame, who was busily carving the meat, but when I called 
her attention to it, Monsieur pretended to be much alarmed 
and hastened to return the confiscated goods to their proper 
places. To-day Madame Chevalier was filled with joy at 
the reception of a large photograph of her father. She 
hastened at once to show it to Monsieur, who was giving Mr. 
Lampman his lesson. It is a fine, benevolent-looking face. 

Wednesday, January 29 

Splendid day, bright sunshine, birds singing. After de- 
jeuner Monsieur came down to arrange the pendule and told 
me to put on my chapeau tout de suite and go to the Pare de 
Monceau and he would accompany us far as M. Leon's; but 
I still had on my morning-dress and had not time to get 
ready before he would have to start. This evening Prince 
Leon dined here. Although remarkably handsome and pre- 
possessing in appearance at first, he improves on acquaint- 
ance. He has an air of high-bred dignity, and he is so merry 
and genial, perfectly boyish without the usual accompanying 
rudeness. He has been the pupil of Monsieur for eight years, 
who says he has never seen him show the least anger al- 
though he is high-spirited and impulsive. After dinner we 
adjourned to the salon as usual. Madame handed me the 
play of "Les Treize" which she had obtained for us to 
read. Madame accepted a cigarette politely prepared for her 
by Monsieur Leon and smoked with the gentlemen. After the 
pipes we played four games of whist, and after that Mrs. 
Hubbard and Prince Leon played a game of chess, which was 
overlooked by the rest of us. Mrs. Hubbard was evidently 
the better player, so Monsieur Chevalier and Mr. Lampman 
took the part of Prince Leon. Mr. Lampman, who was sitting 

[102] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

just behind Mrs. Hubbard, suddenly exclaimed after the 
latter had moved, ' ' There ! Monsieur Leon just move up your 
queen and put her king in check, and she is checkmated, 
and the game is finished!" The rest did not see it in that 
light and warned him against such a proceeding, but the 
brilliant feat was too irresistible, so, unheeding the warn- 
ings, he followed the advice of his counsellor, when directly 
his queen was pounced upon by an energetic knight, who 
performed the feat in one leap, to the consternation of Mon- 
sieur Leon and the chagrin of his adviser, who offered no 
more suggestions. Mrs. Hubbard at last protested against 
Monsieur Leon's giving advice to her antagonist, who had 
obtained a decided advantage in the last two moves. Her 
lips quivered, and she was evidently so much in earnest that 
I feared the result and almost immediately made my adieus, 
as I did not wish to witness a scene. 

Thursday f January 30 

I learned this morning that Mrs. Hubbard gained in the 
chess play last night. Monsieur Leon had the decided advantage 
when I left, and doubtless could have beaten but was too 
polite. Robert Olyphant was reading aloud to Madame 
''L'Auberge de I'Ange Guardien," one of the series of the 
Bibliotheque Rose. There was in it a description of the 
personal appearance of one of the characters in this wise : 
'^cheveux hlancs, a face rouge a gros ventre/' etc. The last 
word Master Olyphant did not understand, and Madame, 
whose limited knowledge of English sometimes causes a little 
merriment, explained to him that it meant ' ^ a large bellows. ' ' 

Friday, January 31 
Samu sent the card of Mong Shaw Loo, M. D., a young 

[103] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



1 



Burmese who has been for the last ten years in America 
acquiring an education. He is now returning to his native 
land as a missionary to his benighted countrymen, and pur- 
poses spending a week in Paris. Samu has recommended 
him to this place. Monsieur and Madame seem quite inter- 
ested in his coming, and we had a merry time at dinner. Mr. 
Lampman pretends that he knows all about him, thinks him a 
distant relation of his. Monsieur Chevalier rose from the 
table and went behind Mr. Lampman, to see if he had any in- 
dications of a queue, and expressed his opinion that there 
was one just beginning to appear at the back of his neck! 
Played two games at chess with Monsieur this evening and 
was beaten both times. 

Saturday, February 1 

Went immediately after cafe with Mrs. Hubbard to take 
a Russian bath. Madame Chevalier accompanied us. Took 
a voiture on the Champs Elysees and drove to a boat on the 
Seine where it is said they give the veritable hain Busse. We 
paid 2.50 francs 50 centimes at the office and were conducted 
down two flights of steps and ushered into a little dressing- 
room furnished with a lounge and German feather-beds, a 
chair, a mirror, and a little shelf upon which were placed a 
water-bottle, comb and brush. A woman presently brought 
our bathing costume, a droll-looking sort of white night- 
dress and an oilskin cap trimmed with a plaiting of scarlet 
worsted, into which we proceeded to place ourselves. 
Madame Chevalier vibrated between our dressing-rooms to 
see the effect of our toilettes, which caused peals of laughter. 
After we were equipped a woman came for us and led the 
way to a little room in the vicinity completely filled with 
steam. Here Madame left us in the hands of a little red- 



[104] 



1 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

faced woman with a parboiled look, in a very abbreviated 
chemise, who, after placing me upon a sort of board-bed- 
stead, conducted Mrs. Hubbard into an adjourning room 
also filled with steam and similarly furnished. She then 
returned to me, and after nearly scrubbing my skin off with 
a flesh-brush put me under a hot shower-bath, where I was 
nearly scalded to death, hyperbolically speaking. The 
steam at first was almost suffocating, but by holding a sponge 
wet with cold water to my mouth, I manged to respire. I 
was then left to steam while she put Mrs. Hubbard through 
the same course of treatment. The next proceeding was to 
stand under a cold shower-bath where we gasped for breath 
; until nearly frozen. We then put on our costumes and re- 
turned to our little dressing-rooms where we were laid upon 
the lounge and covered with blankets and feather-beds and 
; left to rest and dry for about fifteen minutes. We then rose 
and dressed ourselves and upon stepping out of our rooms, 
encountered the little red dame of the abbreviated chemise 
I elegantly dressed in black silk with a long trail and adorned 
' with a heavy gold chain, quite another individual ! We each 
, paid one franc and fifty centimes to her and left the boat 
concluding that we did not receive half as much for our 
money as did Mr. Lampman and Robert. Took a nap after 
dejeuner. I was so tired and sleepy I could scarcely hold my 
eyes open. In the evening, when we were ready to recite our 
lesson, Monsieur, who was in a very teasing mood, addressed 
; me as he very well knows I don't like to be addressed as 
r^ Mademoiselle Ant, commencez, s'il vous plait." Of course 
I did not please, and we were both so obstinate that I sug- 
gested a compromise, which was that the lesson be postponed 
I until Monday. But Monsieur concluded rather than do that he 
would address me properly. I felt a little ashamed that I 

if [105] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

had not given up myself, but tlie feeling was dispelled v/lien, 
after I had finished reciting, he said, ^^Tres-Men, Mademoiselle 
Ant!" with the most provoking coolness imaginable. "Wrote 
a Mctee about Pekin and had only eight faults, which Mon- 
sieur said V\^as remarkably well-done, as Mrs. Hubbard had 
made eleven in writing the same. After my lesson, read in 
*'Les Treize," or rather looked over while Monsieur read. This 
play was written by a relative of Prince Leon's. 

Sunday f February 2 , M 

Attended service at the Rue Royale Chapel. It is com- 
munion Sunday. Found a letter from Samu on my return, in 
which was enclosed the photograph of Mong Shaw Loo, who ex 
pects to be in Paris to-morrow evening. He spends about a 
week here and then goes to Maulmain, Burmah. It seems his 
father is Governor of Burmah. Some minstrels came into 
the court this afternoon. Their instruments consisted of a 
harp, flute, and violin, and the music was beautiful, though 
not appropriate for Sunday. Yesterday the cuisiniere, Arma- 
dine, came in to ask me to come and talk to a gentleman in 
the salon who could not understand French, and Monsieur 
and Madame Chevalier were both out. He wished to inquire 
about the place and asked a multitude of questions. He 
went away saying he he would call again. If he comes here 
to board, I fear poor Dr. Mong Shaw Loo will have to go 
elsewhere, as he remains too short a time to render it 
advisable to lose a more permanent boarder on his account. 

Monday, February 3 

Dr. Mong arrived in season this evening to dine with 
us, Madame having waited diner for him. We were per- 
mitted to speak English at the table without paying forfeits, 

[io6] 



k 




Mr. Mong Shaw Loo 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

as Dr. Mong did not understand a word of French. Recited 
onr lesson as usual in the salle a manger, while Madame, not 
having a German lesson to give, entertained the new boarder 
in the salon. Read in Les Treize with Monsieur Chevalier 
and we were joined by Mr. Lampman, who came in with his 
pipe to listen and smoke ; and he became so much interested 
that he begged to be notified of the next reading. 

Tuesday, February 4 

Started after cafe with Ellie to escort Dr. Mong to the 
top of the Arc de Triomphe, but found it closed. A sergeant 
de ville in the immediate vicinity informed us that it would 
be open about midi. So we started for the Pare de 
Monceau. After walking about for a while, took a voiture to 
Levitsky's to see about the photographs. Stopped at the 
banker's for the doctor to record his name on the list of new 
arrivals. Reached home just before dejeuner. In the after- 
noon started again for the Arc de Triomphe, our party in- 
creased by Monsieur Chevalier and Robert. Found it still 
closed and, moreover, that it had been closed since the Exposi- 
tion, and it was not known when it would be opened again. 
After a short consultation as to what we should do next, it was 
decided that BUie, Robert Olyphant, and Dr. Mong should go 
to the Jardin des Plantes, and I should return home with 
Monsieur, who would very soon have to go to his "little 
disciple." Concluded that, as the day was superb, the 
''longest way round" would be ''the shortest way home," so 
took a brief promenade in the Bois. Had no lesson this even- 
ing. Played two games of chess with Dr. Mong, the first of 
which was overlooked by Monsieur Chevalier, who gave me the 
benefit of his wisdom, and poor Mong was terribly beaten, 

[107] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

for lie really only knew how to "push the pieces," as Mon- 
sieur says. Read again in Les Treize. 

Wednesday, Fehruary 5 

Took an open carriage after cafe and went with EUie and 
Dr. Mong for a drive in the Bois de Boulogne. The day was 
charming, and instead of returning for dejeuner as we had 
intended, drove to St. Cloud. Left the carriage to wait for 
us while we took a stroll in the beautiful Park. The 
Emperor is at the Tuileries at present, and the Chateau at 
St. Cloud can be entered by obtaining a permit; but as we 
had not provided ourselves with that "open sesame," we 
could not go in. The Park is a charming place with beautiful 
avenues lined with majestic trees. In one part is a magnifi- 
cent fountain and an artificial cascade terminates in a pretty 
little lake. This, however, was "in statu quo" and every- 
thing else about the place seemed to be having a sort of 
standstill air, as if waiting for the royal proprietors. 

On our way to the Park v/e passed the barracks and 
stood upon a small bridge overlooking the drill-yard to 
watch the soldiers practising their evolutions. The village 
of Saint Cloud looks highly picturesque as you drive towards 
it from the Bois. The houses seem all to cluster around a 
church which rises conspicuously from their midst with its 
beautiful spire giving character to the view, which without it 
would be fiat and uninteresting. 

We bought six loaves of bees '-honey cake for twice as 
many sous at one of the various little stalls which we 
passed on leaving the Park, and began eating them in the 
carriage as we drove to the adjoining town of Sevres. A 
few mouthfuls satisfied us that we did not like it; so we 

[108] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

generously gave the rest to the cocker, who gobbled it up as 
the sun would a dewdrop. 

Arrived at Sevres, we visited the celebrated porcelain 
manufactory. The workshops are not open to visitors ; 
therefore we did not witness the process of making this 
exquisite and costly ware, but we were conducted through 
rooms filled with specimens in the most graceful designs. I 
inquired the price of a little cup and saucer of a lace open- 
work pattern, which was a hundred and twenty-five francs, 
$25.00 in gold ! There were tea-sets of fabulous prices, vases 
and pictures and busts ; also some bijouterie including brace- 
lets, earrings and pins, the design of one being a tiny bird 
set in a crystal in imitation of mosaic ; in fact it was a sort 
of mosaic, as the picture was not painted but of real feathers. 
The pictures in porcelain are exquisite, one especially, taken 
from a painting in the Louvre representing the entry of 
Henry IV. into Paris. Every little detail was perfect ; every 
feature would bear the closest scrutiny, and the more closely 
you examined it, the more you were impressed with its 
beauty. The guide informed us that it took five different 
processes of ''cooking" to produce the picture, each one re- 
quiring the greatest care in the observance of the exact tem- 
perature, as a little want of or a little too much heat would 
spoil it. I began to see the reason for the fabulous prices. 

We drove to Paris via the Bois de Boulogne, passing on 
our way many elegant country residences of the French 
nobility, some of them exceedingly picturesque, pointed out 
to us by our cocker, who made himself remarkably interesting 
for one of his species. Here was ''the country seat of Count 
Blank" here, "the Chateau of the Duchess ditto," and here 
the residence of one of the Rothschilds. Now we are again in 
the woods of Boulogne, and here is a procession of Jesuits 

[109] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

winding along by twos in their somber uniforms. The 
Jesuit uniform is mostly composed of a wide-brimmed hat of 
black felt, and a very long-tailed coat of the same color. 
Each has an open book in his hand which he seems to be 
reading as he passes along. "Let him that thinketh he 
standeth take heed lest he fall." And ''If the blind lead the 
blind, shall they not both fall into the ditch?" But there 
are no troublesome ditches in this charming place, and the 
broad walks are kept free from all impediments ; so that even 
these blind Jesuits may walk without fear of a temporary 
trip-up. Here is a troop of young ladies accompanied by 
their governess. Our cocker says they are Anglaises. Theyli 
have time to walk quite out of reach of our vision before we 
leave this lovely lake with its boat-house and cascade, its white 
swans and tame ducks which swim to the water's edge and 
hold up their bills for the bit of bread they are accustomed 
to receive at the hands of visitors. 

Now we have left the Bois and are in the suburbs, where 
the Russians and Poles most do congregate. Their houses 
are models of graceful and unique architecture, and you 
wish you might step inside and see the curious rooms which 
you are sure they must contain. The Arc de Triomphe has 
appeared in view, and now we are on the broad and hand- 
some Avenue de I'lmperatrice. Here on the right is "the 
residence of the Duchess," and that specimen of Italian 
architecture on the left, a little in the distance, "the finest 
house in Paris, ' ' so opines our cocker, who seems to be a man 
of taste, vide the loaf of sweet cake, — and he says it is the 
residence of the ex-King of Naples, who has more than fifty 
horses in his stables and a numerous retinue of servants. The 
day finished as pleasantly as it began. Monsieur Leon was; 
here to dinner, and we celebrated Mr. Lampman 's birthday by 

[no] 




The Column Vendome 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

appearing in our joli ruhan rouge which Monsieur said was 
just the shade of the Legion of Honor. While we were at 
dinner there came a ring at the door, and Mr. Lampman was 
demanded. He obeyed the summons and presently returned 
bearing in his hands a cake-edifice, a veritable "Chateau 
d'Espagne," from the center of which rose a heart-shaped 
banner with this strange device, "Vive Louis." Every one 
looked innocent, but I fancy Monsieur and Madame were 
both accomplices of Prince Leon, who owned to having manu- 
factured the heart. 

Thursday, February 6 

Rainy. Went after dejeuner to the tomb of Napoleon and 
the Hotel des Invalides with Dr. Loo, Robert, and Ellie. Was 
impressed anew with the beauty of the tribute to the memory 
of Napoleon. The light through the windows of stained- 
glass as it fell upon the bronze ornaments of the altar pro- 
duced a most brilliant effect, almost like fire. The sarcophagus, 
which is of the finest porphyry, is perfectly plain and 
elegant. The Hotel des Invalides is to France what Green- 
wich Hospital is to England, the home of her wounded 
soldiers. We were shown over the rooms open to the public 
by one of the veterans, who presented himself as we entered 
and offered his services. The cuisine was in full operation, its 
huge copper utensils polished to the last extremity of careful- 
ness and filled with vegetables, meats, etc. for dinner. We 
were allowed only a peep into the large dining-hall, visible 
through the glass door from the upper piazza which sur- 
rounds the courtyard. The library is a small room but well 
filled with books and pictures. In one part is a model in 
copper of the column in the Place Vendome, exquisitely 
wrought and surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I. Upon 

[III] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the real column, which is a shaft of stone, is a spiral bas- 
relief made of Austrian cannon and representing the princi- 
pal battle-scenes of 1805. The Marshal's Room contains 
portraits of the great men of France. Recited our lesson 
this evening and played a game of chess with Monsieur, and 
for a wonder, won. 

Friday, February 7 

Dr. Mong Shaw Loo went to Versailles this morning, and 
we were thereby enabled to renew our study, which has been 
much interrupted of late. He did not return to dinner, 
according to the program which Monsieur laid out for him 
before he left, and we feared he was lost. 

Saturday, February 8 

' ' The Chinois, ' ' as Mr. Lamp man calls the Burmese gentle- 
man, Mong Shaw Loo, or ''Dr. Noir," as Monsieur Chevalier 
calls him, made his appearance this morning as we sat at cafe. 
Our anxiety in reference to him had ceased, as his boots were 
seen outside his door, according to one of the servants. Mon- 
sieur Chevalier ventilates his English considerably for the 
purpose of conversing with the doctor, and he occasionally 
''brings down the house." Each morning he propounds the 
question slowly and carefully, "What do you propose to do 
to-day, doctor ? ' ' We all have the privilege of speaking Eng- 
lish to the doctor without forfeit, as he remains so short a\ 
time. Dr. Shaw decided to go to call upon his friend. Col. 
Austin. Mrs. Hubbard and I, escorted by the kind Madame 
Chevalier, went for a Russian bath just before dejeuner. We 
found this bath a great improvement upon the one in the 
boat, which we took last Saturday. In the afternoon went out 
to do some shopping, and on our way home, visited the Chapelle 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Expiatoire, built by order of Louis XVIII. to the memory of 
Louis XVL, Marie Antoinette, and other victims of the Revo- 
lution. We were shown about by a pleasant French woman 
in a clean, white lace -cap. This chapel was built over the spot 
where the bodies of those to whose memory it is erected were 
thrown after their execution. Upon the pedestal that supports 
a statue of Marie Antoinette is inscribed the last letter written 
by this unfortunate queen. It is addressed to Madame Eliza- 
beth, her husband's sister, of whom she takes an affectionate 
and touching leave in anticipation of her immediate execution, 
consigning to her care her children. I was able to read it with- 
out difficulty. 

Sunday, February 9 

Attended service on the Rue Royale accompanied by Dr. 
Mong Shaw Loo. Met Prince Leon on the Champs Elysees, who, 
after raising his hat, stopped to shake hands with Mong. In the 
afternoon the doctor addressed the Sunday School concert at 
the Rue de Berri. Tout le monde from trente-cinq turned out 
to hear him, even Monsieur and Madame Chevalier. Monsieur 
Leon was also present. Unfortunately, and for a wonder, too, 
the speakers who preceded ''Loo" took for their theme the 
Catholics, of whom they spoke in no flattering terms, to say the 
least. I could not help regretting that another subject had not 
been chosen, for I daresay Madame will have the idea that the 
principal business of Protestant assemblies is to berate the 
Catholics. ''Shaw's" remarks were more interesting, and he 
acquitted himself very v/ell. He sang two songs in English and 
afterwards in his native language. He was invited to dine 
with Dr. Eldridge. After service I stopped to speak with 
Mrs. Gleason and Mrs. Griswold, who sat a few pews behind 
us. In the evening read with Monsieur in his letter "B'^ 

[113] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

about the Burmese. ''Mong" was just coming up the stairs 
as we were going to our chamber. He came in and sat for a 
while relating the manner in which he had spent his pleasant 
evening. 

Monday, February 10 

After cafe we all adjourned to Robert Olyphant's room to 
listen to the dulcet tones of the doctor's voice. Monsieur 
Chevalier had donned his overcoat and stood hat in hand ready 
to start for Prince Leon's. Some of us were lingering in the 
dining-room for a few last words, when we heard the voice of 
Mr. Lampman shouting in anything but musical tones for us to 
''come along." Monsieur Chevalier, assuming a listening atti- 
tude, expressed his opinion that, judging from the sound, the 
singing had commenced ! We accordingly^ bade him ' ' Bon jour" 
and hastened to Robert 's room, where Mr. Lampman was mak- 
ing an introductory speech, mounted upon the lounge, holding 
in one hand his pipe and gesticulating with the other in com- 
pany with one leg. His remarks were to the effect that we 
had before us the great Burmese lion, whose one extremity 
lashed the Red Sea and the waters of the Indian Ocean, and 
the other, — here he was interrupted by the entrance of Mon- 
sieur Chevalier, who had been allured from his path down- 
stairs by the extraordinary sounds. With one flying leap the 
orator vacated his stand, and his place was instantly filled by 
Monsieur, who delivered a very short extemporaneous yet 
eloquent address in pantomime, after which the singing com- 
menced. First, Dr. Mong Shaw Loo sang a hymn in his native 
language, which Monsieur thought was English until he was 
informed to the contrary ! Then tout le monde sang from the 
''Golden Chain." In the afternoon Dr. Eldridge called on 

[114] 




Dr. Mong Shaw Loo 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

"Mong, '' giving him a twenty-franc piece as a souvenir. Went 
out with ' ' Shaw, ' ' who wished to find a present for one of his 
mothers, for he has two. He purchased some photographs and 
some stereoscopic views of Paris. Had dinner at a quarter 
before six, as the Doctor was to leave the city at eight o'clock, 
and we entered just as they were sitting down to the table. 
Dr. Loo is rather egotistical; has evidently been petted too 
much in America, and seems to be hallucinated with the idea 
that anything about himself will highly interest all who have 
the opportunity of listening. Monsieur Chevalier offered to 
accompany him to the station to see him safely started on his 
journey to Marseilles, and as we had no lesson for the evening, 
at their urgent request, EUie and I went with them. On the 
way ^'Mong" informed me that it had not cost him as much 
as he expected it would; he had given five francs to each of 
the servants, a gratuity to the concierge, besides paying his 
bill. All seemed to be mutually satisfied, and the doctor left 
a good impression of generosity besides some flannel shirts and 
drawers that the hlanchisseuse had not time to get dried. He 
said he would write me something during his voyage to let us 
know how he got along. Arrived at the station. Monsieur 
obtained permission of the guard for us to enter the interior. 
''Mong" took an affectionate leave of us, much to the amuse- 
ment of Monsieur Chevalier, who stood by. We left him just 
outside the door of the wagon wherein was deposited his travel- 
ing-bag, etc., and saw him no more. As we reached the station, 
Monsieur said we could go home in three directions, by the 
quay, by the boulevards, or by the Rue de Rivoli. We decided 
to go by the quay, "where the lights quiver so far down the 
river." The evening was magnificent, and as we looked over 
the water, we seemed to be suspended between a sky above and 
a sky below. After passing the Jardin des Plantes and the 

[115] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Halle aux Tins, (large wine warehouses), we crossed the sus- 
pension bridge and found ourselves on the He St. Louis, where 
Monsieur pointed out to us the house he had lived in when he 
was first married. Passing along the quay we crossed over to 
the He de la Cite, upon which is situated the famous Notre 
Dame, which Monsieur said appeared wonderfully beautiful 
by moonlight. We walked along hoping the moon would rise, 
but as it failed to appear, we took a carriage for home, when 
the first turn revealed the tardy luminary just a few minutes 
above the horizon, much to our chagrin. 

Tuesday, Fehruary 11 

Mr. I'Amour from London called, bringing with him a 
copy of Les MiseraMes, which V\^as imperfect, for us to ex- 
change. He is on his way to his relatives in the south of 
France, where he expects to arrive about midnight. He looked 
pale and tired. Our little panier has become so dilapidated 
that it has been replaced by a smart green tirelire in the shape 
of a barrel. Recited our lesson and wrote a dictee in the 
evening. 

Wednesday, February 12 

Prince Leon dined here, and, for a wonder, was not be- 
trayed into speaking any English, as usual, and therefore 
made no contribution to the tirelire. As we were about com- 
mencing our usual game of whist, Mrs. Hubbard expostulated 
with Monsieur Chevalier in reference to his custom of over- 
looking my hand and telling me how to play, as her partner 
Prince Leon did not know how to play as well as I did, and it 
was necessary for him to assist their side. In spite of the 
new arrangement, our side won. This afternoon Monsieur came 
in on his semi-weekly round with his bunch of keys as usual, 

[ii6] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to arrange the pendicle. He sat for a few minutes and trans- 
lated into French some anecdotes from the Youth's Com- 
panion, which chanced to be lying on the table. In the even- 
ing a question arose as to who was the taller, Mrs. Hubbard 
or myself, which resulted in Monsieur's marking the height 
of each and all on the casement of the door in the salon. 

Thursday, Fehruary 13 

Did not go out to-day. Studied, read, and recited and 
wrote another dictee from the ' ' Hotel de Ville. ' ' 

Friday, February 14 

After dejeuner w^t with Mrs. Hubbard to the Bon 
Marche, where she made some extensive purchases. Saw 
such a quantity of beautiful things ! The bookkeeper at the 
desk gave each of us a pretty little illustrated almanac, 
highly perfumed with musk. Went to the Rue Jacob where 
Les Miserahles is published, and exchanged the imperfect 
copy. Saw a beautiful little girl about three years old on 
one of the rues. She was laughing, and we were so struck 
with her beauty that we had to stop and exclaim. Her hair 
was golden and her face, ''as fair as fair could be," was 
lighted by a brilliant pair of black eyes. She was exceed- 
ingly becoming to her little red riding-hood and seemed to 
be quite on her own responsibility, sitting in a sort of angle 
in the street ; and she was such a darling, sweet-looking little 
fairy elf that I remember her with delight. Mrs. Hubbard 
tried to learn Der liehe lange Tag on our way home, in order 
to surprise Mr. Lampman v/ith her knowledge of German, 
he having begun to sport considerable, shov/ing remarkable 
precocity in one so young. 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, February 15 

Had no lesson this evening, as Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier were obliged to go out. 

Sunday, February 16 

Lord Ragstaff, (or a name that sounded like that,) 
preached at the chapel Rue Royale again. He is an earnest 
and doubtless an excellent man but decidedly illiterate. 
Saw Mr. Gleason and Mr. and Mrs. Griswold. Had an early 
dinner to-day so as to be in season for church service at 
Noire Dames des Victoires, where we accompanied Monsieur 
and Madame. We went in at the grand entrance but found 
it impossible to obtain a good standing-place even; so we 
went out and entered by a side-door in a court, which took 
us close to the choir. We found plenty of seats by the pay- 
ment of a sou, in the chairs upon the first landing of the 
altar. The singing, performed by a choir of boys, was very 
fine. There were three organs in the church, two of them 
as large as ordinary church organs, and a huge one used only 
on state occasions, of which the present was unfortunately 
not one. The predicateur was escorted to the pulpit by a 
Suisse, or beadle, in livery of gold lace (only ''AH is not gold 
that glitter," and "Things are not what they seem"), who 
carried a cane which he thumped before him to clear the way. 
After the predicateur had delivered a short address, he was 
succeeded by a cure, who delivered a long one. During the 
ceremonies, the people were continually entering, now a 
Jesuit in his long, black robes; now a nun, who, kneeling 
upon the steps of the altar and devoutly crossing themselves, 
would afterv/ards mix with the crowd, seat themselves and 
listen to the discourse. A gentleman near us, evidently a 

[ii8] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

stranger, seemed to be much disturbed by a woman who 
knelt before him to say her prayers. He chanced to be sit- 
ting in a direct line with the image upon the altar, and the 
devout damsel, absorbed in her "Ave" was no doubt quite 
oblivious of his presence. After looking about him with a 
startled expression, he suddenly left his seat as if he re- 
garded it as a personal matter and disappeared in the crowd. 
The service over, we walked to the omnibus station via the 
Palais Royale. Met some persons in ball-dresses who seemed 
to wish to attract attention, as they were without shawl or 
hood in ''very full dress." Passed the vegetable stalls from 
which the Emperor's table is supplied and saw through the 
glass the most tempting fruits, apples which I though were 
wax, such splendid red and white complexions they had ; but 
Madame said they were the natural fruit; bananas, pine- 
apples, asparagus, etc., etc. After waiting for an omnibus 
nearly half an hour, we at last saw one coming, and suc- 
ceeded in securing places. Among our travelling companions 
was a woman who began to perform her toilet operations 
for the night. Taking off her belt-ribbon, she carefully 
folded it and put it in her pocket, after which she took out 
her earrings and unhooked her dress. Fortunately at this 
epoch the omnibus arrived at her destination and she left. 

Monday, February 17 

Attended ''a wedding in high life" at the eglise de St. 
Thomas Aquinas. The eldest daughter of the Count of 
Germany was married to a count of the same name, a cousin 
of the bride. We arrived in season to secure good seats for 
the view, near the altar. A carpet for the bridal party 
extended from the altar along the principal aisle, down the 
steps of the church and out to the carriage. Their arrival 

["9] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was announced by the Suisse, who led the way preceded by his 
cane, while a wedding-march pealed from the organ as the 
party walked down the aisle. The bride was dressed in a robe 
of white satin with the corsage high; her hair was arranged 
a la mode, and her figure was enveloped in a lace veil. She 
came in leaning upon the arm of her father. She was tall and 
fair, with a face interesting but not handsome. They 
proceeded up the steps of the altar, where a priest 
in his official robes awaited them, followed by the 
bridegroom, who escorted the mother of the bride. The 
bridegroom was dressed in a suit of black broadcloth which 
Madame Chevalier says, was not a la mode, light pantaloons 
being the style. Then followed the relatives, and all seated 
themselves in the comfortable chairs provided for them. 
The friends and acquaintances sat in the front seats. After 
a series of risings and sittings and kneelings, they arrived 
at that stage in the ceremony when only the priestly 
benediction awaited. This was pronounced, the couple 
kneeling, while two gentlemen of the party, one the brother 
of the bride, held over their heads an embroidered canopy 
of white silk fringed with gold. This being finished, the 
party again seated themselves, when the Suisse ascended the 
steps of the altar, holding in his hand a little contribution 
basket, which he gave into the hands of the sister of the 
bride, a beautiful girl of fifteen years. Being joined by a 
young gentleman of the party, whose hand she held, she 
went about soliciting contributions, preceded by the Suisse, 
who thumped his cane before him and cried, ^^Pour les pauvres, 
s'il vous plait.'' She was as graceful as a nymph, but her 
companion found it a fiery ordeal, judging from his com- 
plexion. After this the bridal party went to an anteroom, 
where they were followed by their friends, who went to offer 

[120] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

their congratulations. The handsome Prince Leon was there. 
Madame directed our attention to a young lady in blue, 
with an intellectual but exceedingly plain face, who was a 
Polish Countess, one of the numerous friends of the bride. 
Madame calls her ''Marie" and says she is breaking the 
hearts of two love-smitten swains for whom she has not the 
least consideration, notwithstanding they are quite wretched, 
and both were present. 

From the church we went to the Petit St. Thomas and 
then to ''Charley's" for buckwheat cakes, Madame going with 
us to taste this celebrated American dish, after which she 
left us. 

Next we went with Mrs. Hubbard to the Hotel de 
I'Athenee and waited in the reading-room while she made a 
short call upon a friend of hers, who is soon to return to 
America. Presently she came to us accompanied by her 
friend, whom she introduced as Mrs. Hines, and we all 
started to see about getting some parasols covered. The 
day was lovely, and the people seemed to be enjoying it very 
much. Here and there on the boulevards were little refresh- 
ment-tables, where gentlemen were cosily chatting over 
their coffee or wine, while waiters in long white aprons were 
busily attending to customers. Recited our lesson as usual 
in the evening and wrote a dictee. 

Tuesday, February 18 

Rainy. Our German students utter things strange and 
unintelligible. Mr. Lampman expanded his usually abridged 
remarks, "Ein wenig brot" to, "Wollen Sie so gut sein mir 
ein wenig brot gaben?" and Anna brought him the bread, 
while Mrs. Hubbard was so astonished that "Der liebe 
lange Tage" all went out of her head. 

[121] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, February 19 

Monsieur came in to arrange the pendule and read for 
about an hour. Lesson in the evening with a dictee more 
lengthy than usuaL 

Thursday, February 20 

Went to the publishing house of J. Hetzel, 18 Rue 
Jacob, to exchange the last copy of Les MiseraMes which also 
proved to be imperfect. We were there for more than an 
hour looking over copies to obtain two free from imperfec- 
tions, and were at last successful. The clerks were polite and 
seemed not only willing but anxious to have the imperfec- 
tions corrected. Said they would repair the copy that Mon- 
sieur had had bound, without noticing that several pages 
were missing. Called at Mr. Griswold's. Found an English 
lady there bolstered up on the lounge, v/hom I had met 
several times at the chapel. Rue Royale. She said the tea- 
party held by the society the Tuesday evening previous was 
a perfect success and a very pleasant affair. Arrived home 
just in season to dress for dinner. Prince Leon dined with us 
and also Mr. Packer, of whom I have spoken before. He 
speaks French quite fluently and easily, but, Madame says, 
' ' with a good deal of accent. ' ' He left very early in the morn- 
ing and made his adieus in a manner so graceful as to charm 
Monsieur and Madame, who expressed themselves highly 
pleased in exclamations of ^^gentil!" etc. Played whist with 
Monsieur Chevalier for a partner, Mr. Lampman having 
accompanied his friend. 

Friday, February 21 
Tout le monde went with Monsieur Chevalier to the 
hotel of Count Mniszech, as Monsieur Leon had invited us 

[122] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to visit it. The Count and Countess are now at Fontainebleau. 
Private houses here are called hotels, and this one is situated 
next the Russian church. It is enclosed in a lovely garden 
and surrounded by a very high wall, covered on the interior 
with ivy. The rooms are so handsome and contain so many 
curious and interesting things that it has become quite 
famous, and strangers often ask permission to visit it. Mon- 
sieur rang the bell at the gate, which was opened by the 
concierge, who lives in a little lodge near the entrance. We 
entered the garden, in the center of which is a fountain, and 
the first thing that attracted our attention was a dear little 
fawn trying to hide itself in the shrubbery. Some peacocks 
strutted about with their gaudy plumage gracefully trailing 
along the v/alks, quite ignoring the presence of the guinea- 
hens that followed after. We ascended the steps leading to 
the grand entrance. The door was opened by a domestic, 
and we were admitted into a vestibule, paved with marble, 
leading to a spacious hall filled with paintings. In it was a 
large round bronze card-receiver in which were numerous 
titled bits of pasteboard. The floor was highly polished with 
wax. As we stood here looking about us, some crimson dra- 
perieswhich led to the stairway were drawn aside and our hand- 
some young host appeared to welcome us. We were conducted 
through suites of elegantly furnished rooms each one differ- 
ing from the others in style and coloring. First, the family 
sitting room, a cheerful, stately apartment, with a handsome 
table in the center, over which was a magnificent chandelier 
of wax candles. A large clock elaborately carved reached 
from the floor to the ceiling. The walls were hung with 
pictures in oil, many of them portraits. An ebony cabinet 
inlaid with ivory stood near a window. A piano, what-nots, 
a large and handsome fireplace ornamented with vases and 

[123] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

various graceful little articles of taste, counteracted the air 
of stateliness and gave to the room a comfortable, homelike 
appearance. One especially beautiful room was oval shaped, 
the ceiling exquisitely frescoed, the cornice carved and 
decorated with a deep, light gilding. A box-window with 
straw-colored draperies with gold trimmings matching 
the walls and furniture, formed one side of the room. A 
pattern carpet of tapestry covered the floor. The walls were 
covered with little ornamental frames composed of pedestals 
which were filled with statuettes. The doors were of 
looking-glass, which repeated the apartment again and 
again. A fireplace with a clock and graceful vases occupied 
nearly the half of another side. A fire-screen of exquisite 
workmanship, a table of strav^^-colored marble upon which 
was a large marble basin, little tables covered with delicate 
bijouterie etc. completed the furnishing of this apartment. 
This room led into the grand salon, beautifully carpeted and 
furnished with light furniture, the ceiling also frescoed; a 
fat little cherub with a laughing face, sprang from one 
corner with a garland of flowers which he seemed about to 
drop on any one who chanced to stand beneath him. Two 
tables, filled with a large collection of exquisitely carved 
ivory, stood upon each side of the fireplace. From this room 
we went into a smaller apartment furnished with crimson, 
everything in perfect keeping, and showing a taste most 
artistic. Opening from this was the dining-hall with a 
waxed floor of a pattern to correspond to the elaborately 
carved ceiling of some sort of dark wood, from the center of 
which was suspended a handsome chandelier, which hung 
over a large dining-table. The chairs of dark wood, carved, 
cushioned, and with high straight backs completed the furni- 
ture. The walls were hung with family portraits, one of 

[124] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Prince Leon's grandfather, Alexander II., King of Poland. 
Some of these portraits officiated as doors to cupboards. We 
passed out into the hall and up stairs, where we were shown 
the chamber of the Countess, a most attractive room with 
light furniture, so pleasant and delightful and comfortable 
with its elegantly curtained bed and easy-chairs and lounge 
and tables filled with curious and wonderful things of art, its 
fireplace and clock, and pleasant window looking out upon 
the garden and the gilded spires of the Russian church, and 
the fountain. A portrait of the Count, a fine looking man, 
hung upon the wall. The chamber of the Count, a room 
opposite, not so pleasant but elegantly furnished in dark 
wood, was filled with paintings, many of them by himself, 
for he is an artist. A life-sized oil portrait of the Countess, 
painted by him seemed just ready to step from its frame. 
Monsieur Leon then took us to his own chamber. Near the 
window was a huge cage in which were some small green 
paroquets that were screeching over the body of a brilliant- 
plumaged cockatoo, which had just departed this life and was 
lying motionless upon his side. Monsieur Leon said he had 
seemed sick for a day or two. Another room near by was 
devoted to cockatoos of different sizes and colors that made 
the place hideous with their screeches at such an invasion of 
their territory by a party of foreigners. One old one seemed 
to be quite crazy with rage as he danced up and down on 
his perch flapping his wings and diving at us with his bill. 
A little one with a philosophical expression regarded us 
from a high shelf outside the cage. We next went into Mon- 
sieur Leon's study, a charming room. In one corner stood 
his easel with a landscape in oil nearly finished. Quite a 
large library occupied one side of the room with two tables 
filled with various et ceteras too numerous to mention. A 

[125] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

handsome fireplace and clock v/ere here, as in all the other 
rooms. Over the table was a collection of the "Napoleonic 
Dynasty ; ' ' near by an American flag, and over the fireplace 
a photograph of President Lincoln. A study-table filled with 
books and writing-material occupied the center of the room. 
The walls were hung with portraits, as w^as also the stair- 
v/ay v/hich we descended, again entering the large hall. 
Here one of the domestics v/ith a tame cockatoo upon her 
finger, which made a most polite bow to Monsieur Chevalier, 
who was evidently an acquaintance of his, hopping upon the 
finger v/hich he extended toward him. Monsieur Leon then 
sent for some dining plates, upon which were painted hens 
and ducks, etc. A visit to the smoking-room completed our 
tour of the grande maison, and then we traversed the garden 
and ascended the narrow stairway of a small building which 
led to the Count's studio. The walls were tapestried and 
adorned with portraits. An unfinished one of a lady was 
upon an easel. We saw two portraits of Monsieur Leon 
painted by his father, one when the Prince was about 
eight years old, and the other recently finished, but not as 
handsome as the original. Then we went into the garden again 
for a walk. Monsieur Chevalier made some advances toward 
the fawn, but they v/ere not received with confidence. The 
shy little creature v/iil come only at the call of Monsieur 
Leon with whom it seems on the most confidential terms. 
Madame gathered up some of the scattered drapery of the 
peacocks v/hich they had left behind them in some of their 
promenades. 

We went to a squirrel-house and watched the gyrations of 
the inhabitants, who were too active to admit of any but 
verbal observations. Our young host said we must have a 
look into the cuisine before we left and proceeded to open a 



[126] 



i 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

door which, led to that region, when he was assailed by 
brooms, brushes, and various other utensils of industry that, 
fatigued no doubt by service, were resting inside the door 
and had rushed out in self-defense on being disturbed ! We 
all started back at this unexpected assault, but, quiet being 
restored, we descended a flight of steps and came into a large 
room with a huge open fireplace, upon which was carved a 
boar's head with a savage-looking tusk. The walls were 
enlivened by various highly polished cooking-utensils in 
copper. Everything looked exquisitely neat and orderly. 
Monsieur Chevalier pointed to the range and said that was 
the place where they cooked his nice omelets. Madame 
Chevalier remained to give Monsieur Leon the lesson in 
German she usually gives on Saturady, and the rest of us 
took our leave. Lesson in the evening minus the dictee. 

Monday, February 22 

Washington's birthday, rainy and shiny like our month 
of April. The gentlemen breakfasted with Monsieur Cheva- 
lier; so Madame Chevalier, Mrs. Hubbard, Ellie and I were 
by ourselves. Mrs. Hubbard says that Mr. Birch, the gentle- 
man that Samu and I met at ''Charley's" has lost more than 
$100,000 in the recent fire at Chicago, and he will return 
immediately to America. This evening Monsieur Leon came 
in for a few minutes and interrupted our lesson. 

Sunday, February 23 

Carnival begins to-day and continues through Les jours 
gras ( Shrovetide ) . This morning tout le monde had gathered 
on the Champs Elysees to witness the procession of the hoeufs 
gras. The hoeufs gras this year are four in number and 
have taken prizes. The people were so numerous that 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

we decided to go to the Rue de Berri this morning, thus 
obviating the necessity of a long walk down the Champ 
Elysees. Heard a sermon by Lord Radstock, not Ragstaff, 
as previously written, who seems to be a person of 
great physical ubiquity, if nothing else. The singing was very 
fine. After cafe Monsieur Chevalier asked me to read some 
English with him. Accordingly we adjourned to the salon and 
translated from one of Master ''Bobe's" — as Monsieur 
Chevalier calls Master Robert Olyphant — Sunday School 
books until we were interrupted by Mr. Lampman, who re- 
quested a few minutes audience from Monsieur Chevalier. 
During his absence, Madame, who sat in her large crimson 
velvet easy-chair by the window, read aloud from an 
account of the last moments in the life of Napoleon, written by 
the priest who was with him on the island of St. Helena, and 
afterwards read from Lamartine 's ' ' Jocelyn. ' ' She reads with 
much expression, and is a very intelligent woman, possessing a 
remarkable fund of information on all subjects, as well as 
extraordinary conversational powers. 

Momday, February 24 

A question arose at the table to-day in regard to the god- 
dess, ' ' Justice, ' ' whether she was usually represented as blind- 
folded. Lesson in the evening. 

Tuesday, February 25 

Ladies had again the privilege of breakfasting alone, a 
privilege only to be appreciated by one who sits vis-a-vis to an 
individual who administers sly cowps de pied to me under the 
table for the slightest remark of mine that can be construed 
into a coup de langue. I am sorry to have anything so shocking 
to record, but my duty as a truthful writer impels me. I highly 

[128] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

approve of patriotism, especially in a fellow countryman, but 
pdit-riot-ism under the table is quite a misunderstanding of the 
term. The gentlemen went to '^Charley's," a synonym for 
buckwheat cakes. Mr. Lampman has taken Monsieur to give 
him a treat on this American dish in Paris. Monsieur has been 
practising on the pronunciation of this word for several days 
and has at last arrived at the point where he can say ''bock- 
weet skeeks, ' ' and Mr. Lampman considers him sufficiently ad- 
vanced to appreciate the dish. 

The hoeufs gras are to be received by the Emperor to- 
day at the Tuileries at one o'clock. The subject of attending 
a masked ball has been discussed, and we have concluded that 
the pleasure will not compensate for the expense. 

An orchestra composed of two harps, a flute, and a violin 
has been performing in the court to the great edification of all 
listeners. Some of these street performances are very artistic, 
and it is like having a concert come to you. They are suc- 
ceeded, however, by another troupe composed of an old man 
with a banjo and an old woman with a crack in her voice. I 
cannot recommend their performance as highly artistic; it is 
rather '^ highly" bu.t not artistic. 

Mercredi des cendres (or Ash Wednesday). Madame 
went to Mass early this morning and came home with a 
cross on her forehead. It was so faint that we did not notice 
it until dejeuner, when she called our attention to it. We 
looked at Monsieur to see his cross, but his face was clean. 
He said "one dirty face in the family" was enough. 

Went to walk with Mrs. Hubbard, first to her dress- 
maker's, where we saw a white satin bridal robe. A pretty 
French girl took Mrs. Hubbard's measure, and in the mean- 
time, Madame, the proprietress of the establishment, entered, 
dressed in the perfection of taste and elegance. Her corsage 

[129] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was of purple satin cut perfectly plain and buttoned up in 
front with very small buttons covered with the same material. 
Over this was the corsage of her elegant black silk robe without 
sleeves and high in the back but open in front, coming to a 
point just below the bust and closely fitting the waist, expos- 
ing the purple satin sleeves and a small portion of the waist 
in front. The armholes were trimmed with a sort of graceful, 
heavily fringed material, which, as the black silk over the 
corsage was high on the shoulders, gave a very pretty effect. 

In the evening at dinner the gentlemen gave a very 
pleasing account of their buckwheat expedition. Monsieur 
Chevalier pronounces the cakes ' ' deliceuse. " They attended 
the hoeufs gras reception at the Tuileries, and Monsieur 
^^Bohe'^ (Monsieur Chevalier's name for Robert) was de- 
lighted that he had so fine a view of the Emperor and Empress, 
who, they all agreed, were particularly gracious, the Emperor 
even condescending so much as to depart from his usual cus- 
tom and to smile, which occasioned the remark from Monsieur 
that he was ^'well brought-up." 

This evening the mustard was in great demand, and Mr. 
Lampman, who was in a humorous mood, would take it up 
when it was resting in quietness and present it to some one, 
saying, ^'Permettez-moi de vous offrir la moutarde/* a quo- 
tation from Monsieur Leon the last time he dined here. Mr. 
Lampman came very near to upsetting one of the wine- 
decanters after having filled his glass, because he set it down 
on the edge of the little glass plate instead of in the center. 
After hastening to assist it to recover its equilibrium, he 
offered it the mustard ; this set the table in a roar of laughter, 
Mrs. Hubbard put her hand in my pocket and abstracted a 
franc, and notwithstanding my protestations. Monsieur Cheva- 
lier, her accomplice, responded to her demand to change it for 

['30] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the purpose of paying three sous, which they said I owed to 
the tirelire for saying as many words in English. Mrs. Hub- 
bard said she was Justice. Then arose the question whether 
or not that goddess was represented as blind. 

Thursday, February 27 

At cafe I asked Monsieur for his little book of mythology, 
and he immediately announced to the public that I was "not 
obstinate " ! I only wanted to see if Justice was blindfolded. 
So we all entered the salon, when Monsieur took from his 
library several books, one of which Madame Chevalier com- 
menced looking over. We found several Justices, all of whom 
had their eyes wide open, at which they all rejoiced in triumph 
and advised me to give up my impression. Mrs. Hubbard is 
reading Les Mysteries de Paris by Eugene Sue, and in the 
evening she came across a passage in it to the effect that 
Justice was usually represented blindfolded and holding the 
scales, but that this was a misrepresentation of the goddess; 
this was Law, and Justice should neither have her eyes band- 
aged nor hold the balances. 

Friday, February 28 

Went to Levitsky's to take back some photographs that 
were imperfect. The pretty demoiselle who is always in at- 
tendance took them with an air of quiet grace and said they 
would correct them. At dejeuner Monsieur received a letter 
from Mr. Farnham, who was here when we first came, intro- 
ducing some friends of his, a Dr. and Mrs. Dodd of New 
York, who will spend some months in Paris to learn the lan- 
guage, and would like to come here if agreeable to all con- 
cerned. I am glad for Madame, as her rooms have not been 
occupied for half the winter. 

[131] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, February 29 

Prince Leon ran in for a moment as we sat at dejeuner, 
to see Mr. Lampman, who was not in, having gone with Robert 
to his usual Saturday's breakfast at "Charley's." Monsieur 
Leon went there and was fortunate in finding them. 

Monsieur and Madame have been busy all the afternoon 
in getting the rooms in readiness for the new comers, it being 
necessary to make some elaborate changes. Madame 's room is 
converted into a little salon, and her chamber is to be hence- 
forth one of the suite of the apartment above, formerly occu- 
pied by Mademoiselle Barrett. I feel quite homesick at the 
change, and have been so silly as to shed a few tears. Madame 
has just been into our room to ask if we will eat a petit gateau 
to keep us from starving, as dinner will be delayed until seven 

'clock on account of the press of affairs. Master Robert came 
into our room to exhibit new cane of Russia-leather tipped 
with ivory, a present from Prince Leon. Robert is an admirable 
boy, one of the kindest-hearted, most conscientious beings in 
the world, and his goodness shines out in his face, which is 
not only attractive but handsome. He was going out to dine 
with some friends of his. Spoilt my eyes and was not present- 
able for dinner, but Madame excused me. The new boarders 
arrived this evening. Madame came and sat with me a little 
while before dinner. She is just as good as she can be. 

Sunday, March 1 

Awoke last night and found it dreadfully lonesome, as 
there was no sound of snoring in the next chamber ! Did not 
go up to breakfast nor yet to coffee, but Madame came down and 
said I must go out to walk or I should never recover my equanim- 
ity. Accordingly at four o 'clock in the afternoon we started out. 

1 discovered on the way that Madame had stayed at home from 

[132] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

church to go with me, dear, good Madame! We walked a 
little way down the Avenue de I'lmperatrice, which was filled 
with gay carriages, horsemen and promenaders. One of the 
horsemen stopped to speak to Madame, reaching down from 
his height to shake her hand. His beautiful steed was so rest- 
less that the conversation, brief as it was, proved to be the 
''pursuit of pleasure under difficulties." He was the young 
Prince du Bergh, a military officer. He galloped off at length 
down the avenue devoted to equestrians. Madame says she 
will sometime tell me a romance regarding this young prince. 
Presently we retraced our steps and sat down on one of the 
seats to rest ourselves, when whom should we see coming 
toward us but Monsieur himself! I fancy Madame had ar- 
ranged to meet him there, for I had refused to walk with 
him, not wishing to exhibit my eyes to anyone. However, I 
forgave Madame this little stratagem and we all three started 
down the avenue again. It was sad to see the Sabbath so 
utterly disregarded, and we soon returned home again. Mad- 
ame excused me from appearing at dinner at my request, but 
Monsieur said ' ' No, ' ' and he and Madame both came into my 
chamber to wait until I had removed my bonnet and cloak 
to accompany them into the salon. I made another appeal to 
Madame, but she said Monsieur was a ' ' higher power ; " so in 
spite of my protestations, I was taken upstairs, where Mon- 
sieur tried to compensate for his obstinacy by arranging me 
in a comfortable easy-chair in front of the fire. Just after 
that Robert Olyphant came in with a message from Mrs. 
Hubbard, who wished me to come into her room and sing, an 
invitation with which she had threatened me when she came 
into my room after dejeuner before I was up. As I should 
have been sure to meet Mr. Lampman, I declined to accept, not 
being in a mood to be teased. 

D133] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monday, March 2 

The winter is not over here until the twenty-first of 
March as it does not begin until about the middle of December. 
But we can sit comfortably without a fire. The birds sing and 
twitter. Opposite my window on the other side of the court 
are eight canaries in one cage outside the window. In another 
cage beside them are some ring-necked doves. To-day Mrs. 
Dodd took her first lesson from Monsieur, Madame being 
present to assist. Dr. Dodd is a very handsome man with dark 
hair and eyes, not over thirty, I should think. Mrs. Dodd is 
a pleasant little woman, quiet and pretty, with golden hair 
and dark eyes of an uncertain color. The doctor speaks Ger- 
man at the table with Madame Chevalier. He understands 
and speaks very little French. It is funny to hear Monsieur 
talk English when they cannot understand French. 

Tuesday, March 8 

He has been teaching Mrs. Dodd the musical note un, 
which can be given correctly only by a Frenchman, — and 
pigs ! He is now teaching her to count and says ' ' quatre-vingt- 
neuf," which she repeats after him. Monsieur says now very 
slowly and cautiously, "Wat are hour monnees in France?" 
and I catch the sentences, ' ' Tres-bien, dix centimes ; " " Tres- 
bien!" '^Combien de sous?" "Cinquante centimes ou un 
demi-f ranc. " ' ' Deux francs ! " " En f rangais, Madame ; vous 
connaissez main tenant." Now they are laughing. ''Vous 
prononcez tres-bien." Now Mrs. Dodd is saying something in 
English which he cannot understand, and he says, ''Eet ees 
necessary to learn French for talk to me. ' ' After the lesson 
Monsieur came in here to arrange the pendule, and spying 
this paper, took it up an began reading it, as I told him 

[134] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

I had been writing about him. He read aloud till he came to 
"Eet ees" which he read ''et cetera et cetera," and I allowed 
him to rest in error. When we went upstairs to recite our 
lesson this evening, we found all, with the exception of Mon- 
sieur, who was waiting for us, preparing to play a game of 
squalls. After our lesson we joined them, and it was droll to 
hear Monsieur say "fluted" when a squail was thrown from 
the table. 

Wednesday, Ma7'ch 4 

After dejeuner we went to the banking-house of Munroe 
& Co., walking both ways. Recited our lesson in the evening, 
and from choice took a ten minutes' dictee from the "Hotel 
deVille." 

Thursday, March 5 

Mrs. Gleason called to-day and sat with us until it began 
to grow dark. 

Friday, March 6 

Monsieur Leon dined here. Mr. Lampman's seat was 
changed for the occasion, and he sat in Robert's place between 
Mrs. Hubbard and me, while Robert, who has occupied this 
place since the new boarders arrived, was located upon the 
other side of the table between Ellie and Mrs. Dodd. Mr. 
Lampman delivered me a lecture between his mouthfuls, upon 
the necessity of taking a walk every day. I thought he was in 
fun when he began, but concluded he was in earnest before he 
finished. In the evening while Monsieur and the Doctor 
amused themselves in the salon with playing "dames," a 
French game of checkers, the rest of us were in the salle a 
manger playing at squalls. Madame Chevalier, Mrs. Hubbard 

[i3'5] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and I played for one side, Monsieur Leon, EUie, and Mrs. 
Dodd on the other. Onr side was beaten nearly every time, 
and we came to the conclusion we had too much sympathy 
for the '^blacks," which were in the hands of our opponents. 
During the game Mrs. Dodd and Mrs. Hubbard were called 
out to attend to some new dresses which they had ordered, and 
our party was broken up for a while. I went into the salon 
to witness the progress of the ' ' dames, ' ' where I found Mon- 
sieur ascending in the act of crowning a king. Prince 
Leon came in directly after, and, on overlooking the board, 
asked in German who had the different colors, when Dr. Dodd 
with a conscious twinkle in his eyes, knowing that Monsieur 
could not understand, answered that he had the white men 
and Monsieur the black, who were rather scarce in numbers 
on the board. We left them, however, equally matched, the 
rest of our party having returned to squalls. After a time 
we were joined by the two ' ' dames, ' ' and the long dining-table 
was made round, which was pronounced a great improve- 
ment. Poor Madame was rather unsuccessful in her efforts, 
which were always followed by a groan as her squail glanced 
off wide from the mark and was ' ' fluted. ' ' She did not cease 
to congratulate Mrs. Hubbard and me upon our skill and 
adroitness and sadly remarked, ' ' No one tells me that I play 
well," when ''Bobe," the enfant terrible, who is always the 
soul of truth and conscientiousness, remarked consolatorily, 
''Why, Madame, you cannot expect anyone to say anything 
but the truth ! ' ' Mrs. Dodd took great delight in chasing my 
squail which always seemed to defy her, and she would not 
change her place after the gentlemen came in. We were ar- 
ranged in this way : Robert, Madame Chevalier, Mrs. Hubbard, 
Prince Leon, myself, Mrs. Dodd, Dr. Dodd, and Monsieur 
Chevalier, four on each side alternately. During the game, 

[136] 




(0 




c 

CO 

n ° 



(U 13 

o -g 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

as Monsieur Chevalier was taking aim at the Doctor's squail 
which was in good position to be chased, Madame put her 
hand in a threatening attitude in relation to Monsieur's ear, 
quite unperceived by him, for the purpose of administering 
a coup should his aim be successful. Alas for him ! It was, 
and Madame 's hand, swift in its execution, made a hit simul- 
taneously with Monsieur's squail, and we were all convulsed 
with laughter for minutes after. As the party broke up, Mrs. 
Hubbard asked me to come into her room and see her new 
dresses, which I accordingly did, followed by Robert. A few 
minutes after Madame Chevalier came in. Mrs. Hubbard put 
one of her elegant skirts on me that she might see how it hung. 
After the dresses were carefully folded and laid on the bed, 
Monsieur came in, pipe in mouth, and spying a fold of silk, 
minced up to it with an " Oh ! " and began cautiously to ex- 
amine it with the extremity of his thumb and finger. He was 
arrested by cries of '^Pas la pipe. Monsieur, pas la pipe !" pro- 
ceeding from the mouth of Mrs. Hubbard, as she hastened to 
rescue her robes, laughing at Monsieur's retreat as she 
mounted guard over them. She exhibited them to him also. 
Madame Chevalier remarked that the trails, which were at 
least a yard in length, would be graceful in dancing. She 
had scarcely finished the remark when Monsieur caught her 
by the waist and began a wild galopade about the cham- 
ber. This might have continued longer if he had not run into 
the looking-glass door of the wardrobe, which put a sudden 
stop to his wild career, at the same time breaking his favorite 
pipe, which fell to the floor, leaving a small debris of stem 
between his teeth. Fortunately he did not break the glass. 
After laughing till our sides ached, we saw Robert hasten into 
his room and bring back his new cane which he began 
flourishing in a threatening manner over Monsieur's shoulders, 

[^37] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

admonishing him at the same time to leave the room, as such 
behavior could not be permitted. He had scarcely uttered the 
words when the cane, by some magic movement, suddenly 
changed hands and was flourished around the legs of its 
owner. Quiet was finally restored, and we separated for our 
own rooms, as it was nearly midnight. 

Saturday, March 7 

Tout le Tiionde from No. 35 in company with Miss Rice and 
Monsieur Leon, visited the ecuries of the Emperor. Mr. Lamp- 
man suggested at the table that, as the party was so large, 
instead of forming a procession like the hoeufs gras, we should 
divide into small parties and meet at the Louvre at the ap- 
pointed time. This we did to a certain degree. We found 
the stables in the finest condition. Some of the horses, which 
number 136, were magnificent creatures, especially "Hero," 
a saddle-horse of the Emperor and the one he rode the day of 
the review. The stalls were all carpeted with fresh straw, and 
the brass ornaments polished to the highest degree. Over each 
stall was printed the name of the occupant. ''Walter Scott," 
a beautiful chestnut; "Sevastopol," a black Russian pony; 
"Nellie" and "Gip," two American horses, which Madame 
remarked were our compatriots. They are ornaments to the 
society in which they are placed, and are said to be the 
Emperor's favorites. We were shown through different rooms, 
in one of which were forty stalls. The carriages and harnesses 
were not so interesting, though sufficiently elegant. I re- 
marked to Madame that I should like a hair from the tail of 
one of the horses as a souvenir, which amused her very much. 
In the last department where the saddles and other equipments 
were placed behind glass doors, was a wooden steed richly 
caparisoned with the mane and tail of one that had once lived. 

[138] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

It was with a slight suspicion of its having been plucked from 
this Pegasus, that I received from Madame a horsehair sou- 
venir as I stood upon the gentle declivity that led to the 
royal riding-school. Monsieur tried to prove that it had be- 
longed to ' ' Hero ' ' and succeeded to my satisfaction more than 
to his own. 

Over the entrance to the riding-school are the heads and 
forelegs of three splendid bronze horses, which are plunging 
forward in an attitude so natural that you almost expect to 
see the rest of them start into view. The dimensions of this 
room are 120 by 30 feet, and the beautiful columns are headed 
with handsomely carved horses' heads. The floor is covered 
with sav/dust. The guide explained to us that the flags which 
decorated the room were waved before the horses' heads, as 
they were exercised here to accustom them to things of that 
sort, that they might not easily be frightened. 

Our party now separated, as this finished the tour over 
the stables, Madame Chevalier and Monsieur Leon going to- 
gether, as Madame had a lesson to give him in German. Mr. 
Lampman went in another direction, Mrs. Dodd, Mrs. Hub- 
bard and Miss Rice went on a shopping tour, and Monsieur, 
Ellie, Robert and I went to the Louvre. We spent about an 
hour here, and on going out found it raining; so we took a 
carriage and left Monsieur at Count Mniszech's, while we re- 
turned home. Robert came into our room to arrange his 
stamps, which he had purchased. Presently Mrs. Hubbard 
came in to show me how badly the corsage to her new robe 
was made, the satin trimming being joined the wrong way 
of the material, and in the most conspicuous places. After 
she had gone, Mrs. Dodd came in and sat a little while, and 
then I had only just time to dress for dinner and not a moment 

[139] 



MY LIFE IN" PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

for looking over my lesson. My dictee was a sort of com- 
promise between one of ten minutes and one of an hour. 

Sunday, March 8 

The weather is as fickle as the French language. In five 
minutes it rains, hails, shines, and rains again. The sky is 
blue of the clearest color; then black of the darkest hue. The 
wind was so strong that we did not venture to go to church. 
A splendid day for ''tulips" to flourish. Tulips in this sense 
signify umbrellas turned wrong side out by the wind, as 
Monsieur explained to me yesterday when we were riding 
along and saw one ''blow out" in the hands of a woman who 
was making slow and difficult progress against the wind and 
rain. 

Received a letter from Lizzie by way of London and one 
from Samu. Obtained permission from Madame to read it 
at the table, as I had finished my breakfast and was waiting 
for the others, but found it the "pursuit of pleasure under 
difficulty, ' ' as Monsieur Chevalier, who sat at my side, amused 
himself by placing obstacles in my way, first one thing and 
then another until he spread my napkin before my eyes. Mrs. 
Hubbard said there was a bright fire in her room and two 
easy-chairs and advised me to go in there and read, which 
I did. 

Monsieur has received a response to a request he sent 
some time ago to visit the eg outs, (the sewers of Paris), and if 
nothing prevents, we shall go next Thursday. While I was in 
Mrs. Hubbard's room she came in accompanied by Mrs. Dodd 
and Robert, but the last two did not remain long. After they 
had gone, Mrs. Hubbard read me a droll letter in blank verse 
which she had received from a friend of hers. 

At cafe Mr. Lampman related his adventures in going to 

[140] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and returning from church in the wind. His umbrella was 
converted into a "tulip" and flew across the street as he 
loosened his hold to take care of his hat, which was forcibly 
taken from his head and carried high up in the air, falling 
gracefully, after a few curves, into his outstretched hands. 
His umbrella was restored to him by a man who saw it flying 
across the street. Mr. Lampman said that one of the scholars in 
his Sunday School class had only the stick left of the umbrella 
with which he had started from home ! The wind is so strong 
that it blows off parts of the roofings and the chimneys. Mr. 
Lampman 's hat was blown off again, and he was compelled to 
chase it through the mud from the Place d'E toils to the Arc de 
Triomphe; and his umbrella again making a 'Hulip" of itself, 
flew up in the air breaking in its wild career a window, and 
finally depositing itself, a shattered ruin, in the mud. The 
last view he had of it was under the feet of a gamin who was 
trying to separate the drapery from the stick ! He remarked 
pathetically in closing that it was an old friend and had been 
his companion in many travels. The enfant terrible advised 
me to put on pantaloons if I decided to go out this afternoon. 

Monday, March 9 

Studied as usual. In the evening wrote a dictee which 
had twenty-three faults ! 

Tuesday, March 10 

Dined and spent the evening at the Griswolds'. The day 
has been perfectly magnificent, and the walk down the Champs 
Elysees was delightful. Little Annie had in her hair a blue 
ribbon which was exceedingly becoming to her sweet little face. 

At dejeuner Madame and Mr. Lampman discussed the 
subject of powder for the skin, Mr. Lampman asserting that it 

[141] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was very injurious, as it filled up the pores, and Madame con- 
tending that it was very refreshing to use on the face when one 
is heated, and not so injurious as water. In the course of 
the conversation, Madame remarked that the French type was 
dark hair, eyes, and complexion, the light-complexioned peo- 
ple we meet not being natives but strangers. 

Wednesday, March 11 

At dinner the correct pronunciation of ''Louvre" came 
up, Mrs. Hubbard contending that Mr. Lampman pronounced 
it with two syllables Lou-ver; but Mr. Lampman thinks he 
pronounces it Louvre as Monsieur Chevalier does. I think 
we are all sufficiently decided as to the pronunciation of that 
word at least. 

After dinner the gentlemen all went out, and the rest of 
us spent the evening in Mrs. Dodd's sitting room. Anna 
brought in the coffee and we had a cozy time. Mrs. Hubbard 
was doing a beautiful piece of worsted work, a full-blown 
calla with its green leaves on a dark green ground. Master 
''Bobe" and Ellie played chess. Madame Chevalier brought 
in her basket of knitting and "set up" a stocking for Mrs. 
Dodd, who is ambitious to learn how to shape one for the 
doctor. I looked over some albums, one filled with photo- 
graphic views of scenery in Switzerland and Italy; another 
a face album, containing among others a picture of Mrs. 
Dodd's little boy, about five years old and very handsome. 
She has not seen him for two years. Madame Chevalier 
translated for us a little German story into French. It was 
almost twelve before we separated for the night. In Mrs. 
Dodd's album were the photographs of seven young ladies who 
came over from America without escort. They had traveled 
about a good deal but had been spending the winter in Berlin, 

[142] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

studying, attending concerts, etc. One of them is now in 
Paris attending to tlie purchase of her wedding outfit. In 
Berlin she became acquainted with the gentleman to whom 
she is engaged, and they are going to America to be married, 
after which they return to Berlin. 

Thursday, March 12 

Visited the sewers of Paris in company with Dr. and 
Mrs. Dodd, Monsieur Chevalier, EUie and Robert. The two 
former started in season to regale themselves on buckwheat 
cakes at ''Charley's," meeting us at the appointed time at the 
Place de Chatelet, close to the tower of St. Jacques, where we 
entered the sewers. 

These sewers were begun in the time of Napoleon I., but 
the present Emperor has made extensive additions, and they 
are now worth}^ of a place among the "seven wonders." All 
the royal personages entertained by the Emperor have visited 
them. 

We descended a flight of stone steps and found ourselves 
in a sort of tunnel, arched at the top, with huge pipes con- 
veying the fresh v/ater along through the entire underground 
city. The floor below was divided into two sidewalks by a 
channel six or eight feet deep, through which was conveyed 
the dirty water from the streets above. A whistle announced 
the arrival of the car which was to take us to this marvel. 
Upon either side of the tunnel was a car track. The cars are 
unique little cane-seated affairs, perfectly neat a,nd comfort- 
able and with some pretentions to elegance. They were pro- 
pelled by human power, four men being required for each car. 
We v/ent along at a rapid rate, the car directly over the 
channel of water, and the men, two pulling and two pushing, 
trotting along the sidewalks. Each street was named and had 

[143] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

a number corresponding to the street above it. Our route, 
which commenced at the Place de Chatelet was continued 
through the Boulevard de Sebastopol for some distance, and 
then we returned till we reached the Rue de Rivoli, along 
which we proceeded to the Place de la Concorde, along the 
Rue Royale, along the Boulevard Malesherbes to the Boulevard 
Haussmann. On arriving at the Place de la Concorde, we 
descended from the cars and entered the boats which were 
waiting for us. These boats, nicely carpeted and neat and 
comfortable, floated along the channel, which widened at this 
place, at quite a rapid rate. I was reminded of the river Styx 
and the Infernal Regions, but our boatman was a very good- 
natured Frenchman who did not at all suggest Charon. The 
boat channel is the general collector into which the smaller 
channels enter, and it conveys the water to Asnieres where it 
runs into the Seine. 

There are 300 miles of sewers and the length of the gal- 
leries yet to be constructed is 2166 yards. It is dangerous 
to be in the sewers during a storm, as the water rises very 
rapidly. The workmen employed in building and repairing 
them have small whistles, and when one discovers the ap- 
proach of a storm, he immediately sounds the alarm, which 
is passed along from one part to another until all have heard 
the signal, which they obey as expeditiously as possible, mak- 
ing their individual exits at the nearest opening. 

The sewers are so nicely ventilated that there was no dis- 
agreeable odor rising from the channels. We appreciated more 
than ever the scene in Les Miserables, where the noble Jean 
Valjean carries Marius through these subterranean passages. 

We ascended into the upper regions of the air at the 
Boulevard Haussmann, where we parted with Dr. and Mrs. 
Dodd, who took the shortest route home, while the rest of us 

[144] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

"went round Robin Hood's Barn," or in other words, pro- 
ceeded to the Pare de Moncean, visited the cave and then went 
home. Monsieur de la Villette, a cousin of Monsieur Cheva- 
lier, dined with us. Robert dined out, and Mr. Lampman sat 
in his place at my right hand. He had a remarkably ' ' cleaned 
up ' ' air, as if he had washed his face, but notwithstanding that, 
Monsieur Chevalier called my attention especially to the 
change^ in his appearance, and Mr. Lampman remarked, 
''Mademoiselle Stanton, your indifference to my appearance 
is perfectly shocking." I did not discover until later in the 
evening, as he stood leaning upon the mantelpiece, his back 
to the fireplace in the salon, that he had parted with two little 
whiskered ruffles on either side of his face ! 

Friday, March 13 

Our lessons, which have been interrupted for a few days 
past, were resumed this evening, and I wrote a dictee which 
contained nine faults. Went out to walk this afternoon with 
Mrs. Dodd, down the Avenue de I'lmperatrice. The day was so 
delightful that before we were aware we found ourselves in 
the Bois de Boulogne. The Avenue was filled as usual with 
gay equipages going to and from the Bois, but notwithstand- 
ing, there reigns an air of quiet almost like the country along 
this avenue. The large and handsome houses on either side 
have specious green lawns around them. The broad sidewalks 
for foot-passengers are supplied with settees and chairs for the 
weary. Nursery maids who prefer this quiet to the excite- 
ment of the Champs Elysees, come here with their charges, 
and the little children in gay and beautiful dresses skip the 
rope, roll the hoop, or play at ball, as the fancy takes them. 
Industrious matrons bring their sewing and sit busily at work 

[145] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

while they enjoy at the same time the gay scene around them. 
The Emperor's carriage usually passes here about the middle 
of the afternoon. 

Saturday, March 14 

Dr. Dodd was seized with a panic to ventilate his French, 
which he did to the amusement of all listeners, and his droll 
repetition of " Je pense, oui, je pense, je crois, je crois," kept 
us laughing till our sides ached. This evening at diner, Mon- 
sieur Chevalier and Mr. Lampman had an animated discussion 
about the justice of drafting young men into the army, Mr. 
Lampman contending that the poor had not an equal chance 
with the rich for supplying substitutes, which he considered 
a great injustice. Recited a long lesson and wrote a long 
dictSe. It was quite late when I descended to my chamber, 
and to my consternation discovered that EUie had locked the 
door on the inside and had forgotten to unlock it before going 
to sleep. Finding gentle taps of no avail, I stepped across 
the entry to Anna's room where there was a light burning, 
and told her the state of affairs, when she arose in her ruffled 
nightcap, slipped on a short flannel skirt, and in this deshatille 
came out and began rapping and calling, "Mam'zelle. 
Hellie!" But Mam'zelle Hellie slept on in blissful uncon- 
sciousness. Presently I heard the footsteps of Dr. Dodd in 
his salon, and I warned Anna to make her exit as expedi- 
tiously as possible, but she did not comprehend in season, and 
her endeavors at a rapid disappearance were not crowned with 
complete success, as she was just on the point of entering her 
room as the doctor opened the door opposite and had a full 
'^ retrospective view" of the demoiselle! His look of inquir- 
ing amusement was so comical that we simultaneously burst 

[146] 




Miss Ellie Loise Stanton 
"Mile. Hellie- 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

into a fit of laughter. But just then we heard the footsteps 
of Monsieur Chevalier descending the stairs to see what was 
happening. After acquainting him with the state of affairs 
and indulging in another laugh, we used our united efforts, 
with the exception of Anna, who did not reappear on the 
scene of action, to secure an entrance. Monsieur entered 
Armadine's room, one wall of which was next our bed, and 
while he alternately knocked and called ''Mademoiselle 
Hellie," Dr. Dodd picked at the keyhole of the door, if by 
chance he might push the key from the inside for the purpose 
of using another to unlock the door. These attempts proving 
fruitless, we all three went into the Doctor's salon, and while 
Monsieur and the doctor knocked and thumped, I sat down 
in a chair to await the result. The doctor called, "Ella! 
Ella ! ' ' and Monsieur, ' ' Mademoiselle Hellie ! " At last I went 
to the door again and called in a gentle voice, ' ' BUie ! ' ' when 
in answer, the yoimg lady opened the door, and, what was 
the drollest of all, coolly informed us that she had not been 
asleep, and asked me if I had ''spoken more than once!" 
In consideration of her physical and mental state of halluci- 
nation, we did not argue the case with her, and she rapidly 
relapsed into a state of unconsciousness, her worthy example 
being followed by other actors in this impromptu scene. 

Sunday, March 15 

Stormy. Did not go to church. Mr. Famham, who is 
now in town having a vacation, dined with us. He has been 
studying law in Berlin. Speaks German and French fluently, 
and is a very agreeable, gentlemanly person. He intends 
spending his vacation in traveling and leaves for Spain in a 
few days. 

[M7] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monday, March 16 

Birthday of the Prince Imperial, who is twelve years old. 
Studied all day and recited in the evening. 

Tuesday, March 17 
Studied, and read in ''La Belle G-abrielle." 

Wednesday, March 18 

Went to walk with Ellie immediately after cafe. The 
morning was magnificent, the sun bright and warm. Paris 
seemed a city of light. As we proceeded down the Avenue de 
rimperatrice we turned to look behind us. There in the 
Place d'Etoile rose the beautiful Arc de Triomphe, the 
sculpture with which it is ornamented standing out in bold 
relief as the sunlight fell upon it. Ladies and gentlemen on 
horseback passed and repassed us going to and returning from 
the Bois de Boulogne. Workwomen in white caps hastened 
on their way with bundles and packages. We walked along 
Blled with a general admiration for everything. The grass on 
the lawns at our left was green; the evergreen trees which 
were placed in clumps at short intervals, seemed to be hold- 
ing confidential ''confabs" like old ladies at a teaparty, as 
they nodded and whispered together. We at last entered the 
Bois, and after a short stroll along one of the avenues, availed 
ourselves of some armchairs which fascinated us with their 
appearance of ease and comfort as they stretched out their 
arms toward us, bathed in the sunlight. We wished we had 
brought our books along to study, it was so perfectly de- 
lightful. We abandoned ourselves to this ' ' dolce far niente ' ' 
sensation and watched the horseback riders until they dis- 
appeared in the shady avenues. Presently two little boys 

[148] 




The Prince Imperial 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

playing "horse" came galloping along the avenue dressed 
in high gaiters, short breeches, and long, light overcoats. A 
gentleman, evidently their papa, who had preceded them for 
some distance, retraced his steps and slowly walked to meet 
them. He called their attention to a dark cloud almost di- 
rectly overhead. ^'Regardez-voiis!^' said he, as they seemed 
inclined to continue their sport, and he pointed to the cloud 
and suggested that it would very soon rain. The little boys 
rather reluctantly paused, held up their faces for a moment to 
regard the sky and finally turned their steps toward the en- 
trance. We also left our seats and started for home, walking 
along the avenue within the Bois as far as possible. Stopped 
to look in a store-window on the Avenue de la Grande Armee 
at some photographs and arrived home just before dejeuner. 

Thursday, March 19 

Mi-Careme, (middle of Lent), and the fete day of the 
"Blanchisseuses. " Monsieur kindly offered to escort us to 
see the sights after dinner, as he had given his ''petit disciple" 
a half a conge. Accordingly at about two o'clock we started 
down the Champs Elysees, where we first stopped to see the 
performances of some little birds, around which quite a crowd 
had gathered. As in a French crowd every one seems to have 
a polite regard for the comfort of his neighbor, we had no 
difficulty in obtaining a good view. Upon a table were three 
cages, each occupied by a little bird about as large as a spar- 
row. The man who conducted the performance began by pass- 
ing a plate around for voluntary contributions from the crowd. 
This important "voluntary" being accomplished, he took from 
the table a pack of cards which he offered to different persons 
in the crowd, for them to select therefrom a card which they 
were requested to look at carefully, that they might remember 

[149] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

whether it was a queen, a ten-spot, or an ace, Jack, or anything 
else. He then took the cards and shuffled them in with the 
rest of the pack and laid them all upon a table. Then ad- 
dressing one of the persons who had selected a card, he asked 
him how many cards he would like to have the little bird pick 
from the pack before finding the one he had selected. He re- 
sponded ' ' Three. ' ' The man then opened the door of the cage, 
and out hopped the little bird, but instead of flying away, as 
he seemed at liberty to do, he hopped along to the cards, 
and after pulling out with his bill and throwing down the 
three cards, he held the fourth in his bill until the man took 
it, when he returned to his cage. The man held the card up, 
and the person recognized it as the one he had selected. He 
proceeded in this v/ay until all had been found and recognized. 
We left the wonderful little birds and continued our prome- 
nade down the Champs Elysees, v/hich was not so agreeable 
as it might have been had they not been repairing the sewer, 
until we arrived at the garden of the Tuileries. The gates 
were guarded by sentinels in Turkish costumes, some of them 
real Arabs. The flag waving from the tower announced that 
the Emperor was at home. We went to look at the "vingt- 
Mars," the first tree in the garden that ''leaves," and found 
the foliage already quite green. 

The garden, which is always open to the public, was gay 
and lively v/ith promenaders ; nurses in white caps and aprons, 
and little children playing at ball, skipping the rope, or 
trundling their hoops. In the large basin of a fountain which 
was so quiet that it seemed like a lake, were some miniature 
vessels, ships and steamboats, around which quite a crowd had 
gathered. We watched them awhile and then went out upon 
the Rue de Rivoli. 

Monsieur explained that gamins was a term not limited 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

exclusively to street boys, but was applied to the lower classes. 
Presently we came out upon the boulevards, which were alive 
with pedestrians, the middle of the street with vehicles, 
and the balconies of the houses with those who watched the 
various sights of the "Mi-Careme;" gaily decorated carriages 
filled with gaily decorated men, women, and children dressed 
according to the various tastes, some in masks, some to repre- 
sent animals, bears, etc., some as harlequins, and some really 
looked beautiful. Most of the women wore low-necked and 
short-sleeved gowns, with garlands of flowers on their heads. 
In one carriage was an exaggerated nursery-maid, with a pup- 
pet-infant, which she tossed up in the air and then severely 
chastised as the carriage passed. Another carriage became 
blocked, and while waiting for the other vehicles to proceed, 
one of the inmates dressed like a Mephistopheles embraced the 
opportunity to lean over the carriage and light his pipe. 

Now and then a surge in the crowd on the sidewalk re- 
vealed some fantastically-dressed person hurrying along. Some 
of the carriages were decorated with flags and gay ribbon- 
streamers, or huge bouquets of flowers, and the occupants with 
grotesque headdresses of every conceivable pattern and size. 
One contained an orchestra with instruments the most unique 
and fanciful imaginable, from which the performers dis- 
coursed pleasant music as they passed along. Thee was also 
a band stationed in one of the window balconies opposite 
which we were standing, — and charmed us with its per- 
formances. 

Some vendors of mustard and honey embraced the occa- 
sion for advertising and perambulated along the boulevards 
in carriages emblazoned with the names and the virtues of 
their several wares. 

At the corner of the Avenue des Ternes, we saw a fan- 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tastically dressed woman hurrying across the street as if to 
stop an omnibus which was passing". The guard at the door 
only laughed at her gesticulations and did not stop the con- 
veyance. The woman strode along never seeming to mind the 
''blue blouses" who surrounded her, some saluting her with 
low bows and two or three offering to kiss her! She was 
presently hidden from view by the impromptu crowd. We 
were not so shocked as we otherwise might have been, had not 
Monsieur informed us that the apparent feminine was a 
counterfeit, being really a man dressed in woman's clothes! 

The fete terminated in the evening with a grand ball. 

Prince Leon dined with us. This is St. Joseph's day, the 
patron saint of Monsieur Chevalier, whose name is John 
Joseph Leopold. It is the custom here instead of observing 
the anniversary of one's birthday, to observe that of one's 
saint instead. Madame Chevalier, in remembrance of this 
circumstance, during her promenade this afternoon to the 
Hotel de Ville, purchased for him a musical pipe, which made 
its debut at the dinner table, its handle enveloped in a sugar 
chateau d'Espagne, and the bowl surmounting the center. It 
was filled with something resembling tobacco and decorated 
with a beautiful half -blown red rose with green leaves. It was 
received with loud applause, and Monsieur proceeded to play 
a tune, which proved more noisy than musical. Madame then 
favored us with a tune which excited suspicions of her having 
previously practised, her performance being so much more 
artistic, though at the same time rather ' ' afflicting. ' ' Monsieur 
passed the rose round for general admiration, but unfortu- 
nately it was broken from its stem somewhere in its sojourn 
in the vicinity of Mr. Lampman and Mrs. Hubbard. Monsieur 
placed the relics in his button-hole after Mrs. Hubbard had 
fastened them together with a pin. This being a great occa- 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sion, the champagne was brought on and the glasses filled by 
Dr. Dodd, The health of Monsieur Chevalier was proposed 
after a toast from Prince Leon, and at the request of Mr. 
Lampman, Monsieur sang a college drinking-song, going 
through the motions at the same time, the others accompanying 
him. 

Comrade prends ton verre, (All grasp their 
glasses) 

Et ne refuse pas ; 

La tete sans chapeau 

Et le bon vin sans eau. 

In frontibus (All raise their glasses and touch 
the bottom to the middle of the forehead) 

De frontibus in nazibus (Lower the glass until 
the brim touches the nose) 

De nazibus in bochibus (Lower the glass until 
the brim touches the lips) 

Avalemus. (All drink) 

(Chorus while the glass is gradually lowered) 

II entre dans sou trou glouglou 
De sa gentille turburette ! 
II entre dans sou trou glouglou 
De sa gentille turburou!" 

After dinner we played squalls and whist, Dr. Dodd be- 
ing my partner. 

Friday, March 20 

Knitting is quite the rage, and I divide my favors between 
a stocking for Dr. Dodd and one for Monsieur Chevalier. 

[153] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monsieur pretends he is suffering for his. Mrs. Dodd knits on 
hers as much as possible, that Madame may teach her how to 
shape it before she goes away from here. Lesson in the eve- 
ning, as usual. 

Saturday^ March 21 

Mrs. Dodd wished me to come into her room after dejeuner 
and I did so ; presently Madame came down, and we sat there 
until dejeuner was announced, after which Prince Leon 
came to escort us to the hotel of his aunt, the Countess 
Landskoroinska, who lives not far from here quite alone with 
her servants. It is more elegant and showy than the Count 
Mniszech's hotel, which is said to be the finest in Paris, but 
to my mind less interesting and less artistic. It is in every 
way fit for a queen. The Countess is a peculiar person. She 
has a son and daughter, but they never visit her, and if they 
should, she has no accommodations for them, hers being the 
only bedchamber in all this grand establishment excepting 
those for the servants. She has a fabulous wealth of diamonds. 

We went through suites of elegant rooms, each finished 
in a different color, but all harmonizing. The most magnifi- 
cent room, and the one most used by the Countess, was the 
bibliotheque. It was furnished in crimson, the ceiling frescoed 
in the softest and most exquisite color, a warm, mellow shade, 
in which mingled angels and cupids and garlands of fiowers. 
The carpet was patterned from her coat of arms, and in it was 
woven a Latin motto. The room was filled with the most 
graceful and costly 'bijouterie placed upon tables of unique 
patterns. Upon one side was a cabinet in which she keeps her 
jewels. It extended along one side of the room, and within 
the doors of crystal were wonderfully curious and interesting 
things. The other side of the room was composed of plate- 

[154] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

glass windows separating the bibliotheque from a conservatory 
filled with rare and beautiful plants and flowers, and furnished 
with bamboo easy-chairs of a most graceful pattern. These 
windows could be dropped down quite out of sight, uniting 
the two rooms. The conservatory looked out upon a green 
velvety lawn. The Countess was in town but had left her 
house in the afternoon for our benefit. An open book was 
lying upon a little table beside a sofa. It was Queen Victoria ^s 
recent publication, "Leaves from the Journal of our Life in 
the Highlands." A rare vase containing a half -blown rose 
also stood upon the table. Some cyclamens had strayed from 
their places in the conservatory and in ornamental pots shed 
their delicate fragrance through the apartment, their purple 
ears pricked up as if startled by the unusual sound of strange 
voices. I could not repress an exclamation of delight at the 
sight of my old favorites and took the liberty of caressing one, 
notwithstanding the expression of haughty indignation it 
seemed to take at such a presumption. 

Opening from one side of this room was the bedchamber, 
of royal purple. The walls were all cushioned in this color, 
and the bed-hangings and other draperies were of the same. 
At the head of the bed was a little oratory of crimson velvet, 
the door of which was open. The place was just large enough 
for the Countess to kneel in. In the center was a large gold 
crucifix ornamented with coral, the figure of Christ being in 
coral highly polished. This crucifix contrasted beautifully 
with the crimson velvet background against which it hung. 
On either side were pictures of saints, and below v/as Raphael 's 
"Madonna of the Chair." This room also opened into the con- 
servatory. A few paintings in oil adorned the walls. There 
were several cabinets of different patterns, some most ex- 
quisitely painted, others inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and one 

[155] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of delicate Chinese work. Between the bed and the conserva- 
tory was a magnificent album of paintings, the largest book 
I ever saw. The covers of hard wood were heavily ornamented 
with solid silver. In each of the four corners, in bold relief, 
was the head and bust of a celebrated artist in silver, Raphael, 
Rubens, Titian, and Durer. 

The dining-saloon was also elegant. It was of dark wood, 
the ceiling carved and the walls hung with appropriate pic- 
tures in tapestry. The carpet was so soft that your feet seemed 
to have no foundation to rest upon. Marble busts placed here 
and there against the wall contrasted beautifully with the dark 
wood. An elegant chandelier of wax-candles hung over the 
table. In another room was a chandelier of rock crystal. 

The Countess entertains very few at her table. Once a 
week Monsieur Leon, in company with the Count de Germany, 
a friend of his and hers, dines with her. 

Our last visit was to the roof, from which is a very good 
view of Paris. 

Mr. Lampman was greatly exercised in his mind that that 
conservatory, so nicely adapted to smoking, was utterly lost 
upon the Countess, who does not indulge even in a cigarette. 

Our party separated at the gate of the hotel. We went 
with Madame, who had orders to leave at the fruitier e's and 
the butcher's; after which we walked down the Champs 
Elysees and sat down on one of the settees. Madame, who is 
always industrious, took out her tatting. As we sat there 
watching the various sights, two carriages came into collision, 
one of them being overturned rather unceremoniously. No- 
body was hurt, but it put the proprietress of the overturned 
vehicle in a very mauvaise humeur, as she was obliged, with 
her nursery maid, baby, and little boy, to leave her carriage. 
She was preceded by her footman in a long-tailed coat, and 

D156] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

hat ornamented with gold lace, who had in his arms a little 
girl, and all proceeded to occupy the settee which we had just 
left, until the carriage could be arranged. 

Just then we saw the Royal carriage coming up the 
avenue, preceded by an outrider in livery of green, white, 
and gold. It was drawn by four horses. Upon the backs of 
two at the left were postilions in the same livery, consisting 
of short green jacket, white breeches, and caps trimmed with 
gold. The carriage was open and contained the Prince Im- 
perial, his tutor, a General-Somebody, and a little boy about 
the size of the Prince. It was followed by two attendants on 
horseback. The Prince seemed quite interested in the over- 
turned carriage as he rode past, stretching out his neck as far 
as possible to see it. He is a delicate-looking boy, with a fine, 
intellectual face. 

After dinner Monsieur Chevalier had some business calls, 
and we did not recite our lesson. Spent the evening in the 
salon, Mrs. Hubbard working on her embroidery and Mrs. 
Dodd on the doctor's stocking, Madame knitting a hood out 
of white wool. Robert, who is a youth of an investigating 
turn, informed us that Monsieur Leon had for sp ending-money 
fifty francs per month and has only to buy his cravats out 
of it! 

Sunday, March 22 

Attended the French chapel, 56 Rue de Provence. An 
elderly man preached from second Cor. 3 :18. "We walked both 
ways, and when we reached home were tired enough. Cafe 
had been served, and EUie and I had ours by ourselves. Went 
up to Mrs. Hubbard's room after dinner and had a sing. 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES A^O 

Monday, March 23 

Sat in Mrs. Dodd 's room until Madame came down to give 
her a lesson. Encountered our little hlanchis sense in the entry. 
She had come on her usual Monday errand and had in her 
hands a flower-pot containing a beautiful plant covered with 
delicate white blossoms, which she gave me. Madame told me 
that the woman was particular that it should be white, as it 
is a French custom to give only white flowers to a demoiselle. 

Recited our lesson as usual, and after writing a dictee in 
which I had seven faults, I read with Monsieur from Uncle 
Tom's Cabin. 

March 24 

This morning found Mrs. Hubbard and Mr. Lampman 
both taking their cafe when I entered the salle-a-manger, an 
unusual circumstance, as generally Mr. Lampman is the last 
one at the table when he gets up at all. He was quite pompous 
at the circumstance and looked upon the later arrivals as a 
party of " Mushishganghers. " 

At dinner we had a chicken, which Madame said was 
hatched artificially. Mr. Lampman thinks this institution is 
a most humane one, it must be such a relief to the hens ! The 
chicken was not half-cooked, and it was sent back to the 
kitchen, where Madame soon followed. The cuisiniere, Arma- 
dine, has given her considerable trouble from time to time, 
and this want of attention capped the climax to Madame 's 
indignation, and she told Armadine she would give her ^ ' eight 
days to leave. ' ' 

During the absence of Madame from the dining-room, 
there was quite an English insurrection, headed by Mrs. Dodd 
and followed by Mrs. Hubbard and the doctor, who did not 

[158] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

allow the presence of Monsieur to prevent them from jabber- 
ing in English. 

To-night Madame Chevalier powdered her hair, which 
grately improved her looks. After our lesson and my 
dictee, Monsieur read nearly a page in Uncle Tom's Cabin, the 
subject being a description of Topsy. 

Wednesday, March 25 

At dinner to-day the conversation turned upon walking, 
and Madame remarked that the grandmother of Monsieur 
Leon would have been alive now probably if she had walked 
more. Then Mr. Lampman put in a word, then Monsieur 
Chevalier to strengthen the certainty of dying young if one 
neglected the daily exercise of walking. These remarks were 
made with sundry furtive glances towards my side of the 
table, but I maintained a profound silence. 

A question then arose as to whether the horse was a native 
of America. Robert Olyphant attempted to say that he had 
read that Cortez imported them, but his power of expressing 
himself in French being rather limited, he succeeded in say- 
ing, much to Monsieur's amusement, that he knew the man 
who had imported them and Monsieur asked him how old he 
was at that time. Mr. Lampman 's usual expression at the 
table when he has been sufficiently helped to anything is "J^en 
ai assez." This has given rise to quite a number of ''jeux 
d 'esprit," in which "donkey" flourishes conspicuously. To- 
night Mr. Lampman insinuated in this connection that the 
French generally belonged to this race, and Monsieur himself 
particularly, judging from the ears. It was really quite a 
droll remark as he made it and was rather a hit, but Monsieur, 
not in the least disconcerted, retorted that he could not pre- 
sume to dispute Monsieur Lampman, since he was so capable 

[159] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of judging, having always the measure with him. The laugh 
was against Mr. Lampman, who for a moment had nothing to 
say, though he soon recovered himself and remarked that he 
was glad for once that Monsieur's words were brilliant. 
' ' Why ? ' ' inquired Monsieur Chevalier. ^ ^ Because, ' ' responded 
Mr. Lampman, ''as they come from your mouth they are 
usually in the shade," — referring to Monsieur's large nose. 
Monsieur has had his moustache, which was never very flour- 
ishing, shaved off, Mr. Lampman told him that the reason it 
would not grow was a very good one; things did not usually 
grow in the shade. Monsieur and Mr. Lampman take great 
delight in saying sharp things to each other in a good-natured 
way, and as they are about equally matched, it is quite edi- 
fying to the listeners. 

Sat with Mrs. Dodd about half an hour before dinner. 
While I was there, the doctor entered with a package in his 
hand, which he proceeded to undo. It was several books of the 
Bihliotheque Rose, which he had been purchasing for his own 
and Mrs. Dodd's edification. One was "Memoirs d'un Ane," 
the illustrations in which we were laughing over when Anna 
came to announce dinner. 

Thursday, March 26 

As we were to have company at dinner to-day, Mrs. 
Hubbard suggested that we put our heads into the hands of 
a hair-dresser. Accordingly at about three o'clock we started, 
accompanied by Mrs. Dodd and Ellie, for the Boulevard 
Haussmann, where it was said hair was arranged in the latest 
and most fashionable style. We were taken into a dressing- 
room and seated in easy toilet-chairs before some mirrors, and 
when we arose therefrom, what a change was there, my 
countrymen! Mrs. Hubbard's hair was puffed and frizzled 

[i6o] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and crimped high up on her head, while two large curls 
meandered in graceful carelessness down her back, reaching 
nearly to her waist. My hair was arranged in the same style 
with the exception of the curls. After we returned home, 
Mrs. Dodd dressed her own so beautifully that Madame could 
hardly believe that she, too, had not been under the hands 
of a professional. 

Mrs. Dodd put on for the evening a very becoming dress, 
the under-waist and skirt of blue silk and a black silk over- 
waist and skirt. Mrs. Hubbard and I wore black silk, and 
we had a bow of ribbon in our hair. We intended to keep 
out of sight with our grand toilettes until dinner time, but 
Mr. Lampman, having caught a glimpse of Mrs. Hubbard, 
started off at once for the hairdresser's and had his hair 
crimped and his moustache waxed after the most approved 
style. When dinner was announced, Mrs. Dodd, Mrs. Hub- 
bard and I entered the dining-room together, and it was amus- 
ing to witness the expression of polite astonishment depicted 
upon the countenance of Monsieur Chevalier as he received us 
with his accustomed grace. Dr. Dodd had seen us before, and 
was not therefore so startled as he might otherwise have been. 

We had been seated at the table a few minutes, and 
Monsieur had already officited in the soup line, owing to the 
unusual absence of Madame, when she entered, apologizing 
for her detention, and followed by a distinguished-looking 
gentleman with powdered hair and moustache, who proved 
to be Mr. Lampman. Monsieur Leon and Robert were also 
powdered to perfection. The style was positively becoming 
to Mr. Lampman, who, good-looking enough ordinarily, was 
by the transformation rendered remarkably handsome. It was 
droll to hear the various remarks upon our appearance, and 
the gentlemen pretended to be so affected by our toilettes that 

[i6i] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

they could not eat for regarding us. Mrs. Hubbard was ad- 
dressed as the "Duchess" and I as the "Princess," and Mr. 
Lampman was a "Count" with an unpronounceable name. 
Madame gave us permission to speak English, as Dr. and Mrs. 
Dodd cannot speak French. The ' ' Count, ' ' who speaks Eng- 
lish very brokenly, kept us all laughing at his droll and 
foreign pronounciation. He threw this off after a while and 
addressed Monsieur Chevalier, who cannot understand Eng- 
lish, and asked him very rapidly, "Well, Monsieur Chevalier, 
have you read the latest news in the papers'?" Monsieur 
Chevalier very offhand, "Oh yes, yes. Oh yes." Mr. Lamp- 
man, "Well, do you not think the article that says you ought 
to be hung, very just?" Monsieur Chevalier, "Oh yes, yes, 
yes sir." Mr. Lampman, "Don't you think the punishment 
a little too severe ? ' ' Monsieur Chevalier, ' ' Oh no, no, no ! " 
By this time the table was in a perfect roar of laughter, in 
which Monsieur joined heartily, when he was told what Mr. 
Lampman had been saying. 

After dinner Mrs. Hubbard and I went into Madame 's 
room and had our heads powdered. All agreed that Mrs. 
Hubbard bore a striking resemblance to Marie Antoinette, 
and she did look beautiful. We played a game of whist. 
Monsieur Chevalier being my partner. Monsieur Chevalier, 
by the request of the company, sang the Marseillaise. He said 
he would sing it low, as he would be in danger of being ar- 
rested if overheard by a sergeant de ville. After that we sang 
"Lauriger Horatius," all joining in the tune, though no one 
knew the words excepting Mr. Lampman and me. Mr. Lamp- 
man, who has a most heart-rending voice, favored the company 
gratuitously with some of his college songs, among them the 
tragic ditty of the "Man in our town who was so wondrous 

[162] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

wise," etc., and the ''Mouse who lived in a mill" flourished 
conspicuously, as usual. 

Friday, March 27 

Studied, wrote letters, and recited in the evening, as usual. 
Ellie had the misfortune to sit down on Mr. Thompson's hat, 
which did not improve its appearance. Robert showed us to- 
day how he could make a hole in a small sheet of note paper, 
sufficiently large to admit of passing himself through and also 
of enclosing the dinner table ! 

Monday, March 30 

Poor little Mrs. Dodd is quite ill with a cold and did not 
come to diner. To-night I learned for the first time that 
Monsieur Chevalier is a lawyer and has practised for several 
years, as he received a circular letter addressed to ''Jacques 
Joseph Leopold Chevalier, Avocat." He showed me a book 
afterwards containing the name and address of all the Parisian 
lawyers. In this book it stated that Monsieur Chevalier began 
practice in 1858. Recited our lesson and wrote a dictee. 

Sunday, March 29 

Attended service at the French chapel, accompanied by 
Ellie, Mrs. Hubbard and Robert. Rev. Monsieur Bercier 
preached in behalf of the Algerians, who are suffering v/ith 
famine, and for whose benefit a collection was taken at the 
close of the services. He is very eloquent, and I understood 
the most of his discourse by paying the strictest attention. 
After dinner Robert came down into our room, and we read 
"A Mine Explored," he and Ellie finding and reading the 
references as they occurred. 

Mr. and Mrs. Avery called upon us this afternoon. They re- 

[r63] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

mained only two days in Paris, as they wish to be in Eome 
during Holy Week. They came over from America in the 
Australasia, and Mrs. Avery says she was the only lady on 
board. 

Monday, March 30 

At table Mr. Lampman happened to remark that he 
would rather live a shorter time and live well. Monsieur 
Chevalier thought he would like to live well, but would not 
care to have it all subtracted from his life, and then, after 
considerable trouble, succeeded in translating a French prov- 
erb into English for Mr. Lampman 's benefit and said hesi- 
tatingly, ' ' Life — of — a — hog — short — and — good, ' ' adding that 
he did not know how it sounded in English. 

Tuesday, March 31 

Madame came into our room and sat with us and after- 
wards invited me to come into her chamber and sit with her, 
which I did. 

It is a magnificent day, so warm that the windows are 
open. 

"Went to walk for about ten minutes after dinner in ful- 
fillment of a promise I made to Mrs. Hubbard at cafe. I 
wanted the sugar, and she would give it to me only on con- 
dition that I would go out to walk some time during the day. 

Wednesday, April 1 

April-fooling has quite exploded in America excepting 
among children, but ''Le Poisson d'Avril" is considered a 
good thing here. Accordingly this morning at cafe, Madame 
rapped at Mr. Lampman 's door and told him that Dr. Eldridge 
awaited him in the salon. Not long after, Mr. Lampman 

[164] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

emerged from his chamber looking unusually slick, having 
performed his toilette with extra expedition not to keep the 
reverend gentleman waiting, and bidding us all a general good- 
morning, traversed the dining-room with an elastic step, put 
on an agreeable expression, and opened the door of the salon ; 
but before he had entirely disappeared from view, returned 
and took his seat at the table, while the persons present laughed 
immoderately. 

Went to Munroe and Co. 's and afterwards did some shop- 
ping, which occupied all the morning until dejeuner. Master 
Robert boasted at the table that no one could get a poisson off 
on him. Mr. Lampman told him not to be too sure, as he in- 
tended to try it immediately after dejeuner and advised him to 
be on his guard. Robert laughed incredulously at the idea, 
especially as Mr. Lampman had been so indiscreet as to inform 
him of his intentions. Notwithstanding, after dejeuner, Mr. 
Lampman and Robert having gone to their respective rooms, 
Mr. Lampman, after reading for a few minutes, suddenly called 
out, ' ' Bob ! find the definition of this word for me in the 
dictionary," telling a made-up word. Poor Bob, as unsus- 
pecting as he is honest and obliging, searched for some time 
without success, but presently hearing a suppressed laugh 
from Mr. Lampman, suddenly realized that he had been hunt- 
ing a poisson, much to his chagrin; and he declared, half- 
laughing in spite of himself, that it was ''not fair!" 

Accompanied Monsieur Chevalier at four to the house of 
his petit disciple, where Madame was engaged in giving him 
a German lesson. She joined me presently, and we went to 
walk on the Champs Elysees, where we met the young couple 
whom we saw married some time ago. We walked for a long dis- 
tance down the Avenue de I'lmperatrice and at last sat down 
to watch the myriads of carriages and horseback-riders. It is 

[165] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

not conventional for one lady or even two to ride in an open 
carriage by themselves. Madame pointed out as they passed, 
the equipages that she chanced to know, and she knew a great 
many. It was very entertaining. "There is the Princess 
Metternich, the wife of the Austrian Ambassador. There 

goes the Countess and the Princess somebody, 

and that splendid horseman just passing is Mackenzie, the 
finest horseman in Paris, whose movements are in such per- 
fect harmony with the beautiful animal he rides that you 
begin to think that Centaurs are not myths after all.^' 

We came back just in season to dress for dinner, and 
found that Monsieur had already returned with Prince Leon, 
who was to dine with us. 

At dinner, Prince Leon, whose individual salt had been 
filled with sugar, sv/eetened his soup and ate it without per- 
ceiving the difference, but thought his meat was not improved 
by the application. 

After dinner, as we all sat in the salon, Monsieur com- 
menced a play by saying, '^ Monsieur le Cure n'aime pas les 
Os ; que f aut-il lui donner ? ' ' You must respond by mention- 
ing some article of food that has no bones in it nor letter in 
its spelling. The "Os" is ambiguous and may mean either 
bones or the letter 0, and many did not answer correctly and 
had to deposit a gage in the big ornamental flower-box on the 
table. For the forfeits, Monsieur Leon had to sing a song and 
pull Mr. Lamp man 's hair, Mr. Lampman had to cull a bouquet, 
and he proceeded to name Monsieur Leon a ' ' dandelion, ' ' Mon- 
sieur Chevalier a ' ' chou, ' ' Mrs. Hubbard a "lily of the valley, ' ' 
Ellie a "rose," Mrs. Dodd a "white lily," Dr. Dodd "epin- 
ards, ' ' Robert a ' ' cauliflower, ' ' and myself a ' ' nosegay, ' ' which 
last was intended as a pun upon a remark made at the break- 
fast table. After this, we played a game of "Muggins," and 

[i66] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Robert was the victim. Poor Bob ! It v/as well known by tout 
le monde at tliat time that the neck and sleeves of his chemise de 
nuit had been sewed up, and his bed arranged so that he could 
only half get into it. As it drew near ten o'clock, he bade 
us all good-night and proceeded to his room, where a few 
minutes after, Monsieur went on a reconnoitering expedition 
and returned saying his door was closed, so it would be safe 
for us all to adjourn to Mrs. Hubbard's chamber opposite, 
to wait for the denoument, which we accordingly did, and 
while Monsieur placed himself as guard at the door to listen 
for the first sounds, Mr. Lampman and Dr. Dodd amused us 
by telling college-stories. Dr. Dodd said one of the students 
had been very much annoyed by crickets that had from time 
to time entered his chamber and kept him awake by their 
chirping. This same student had a very elegant gold watch, 
and one night he had been out rather late, and returned home 
in a state of intoxication, which left him only sense enough 
to get into bed, hardly that, and place his watch on a little 
table close by. After a short nap he awoke just enough to 
be disturbed by the ticking of his watch, which he thought 
proceeded from a cricket. So he got up and seized his boot 
and after listening attentively for a moment to discover the 
place v/hence the sound proceeded, he dashed his boot with 
all his force upon his watch, and as it didn't chirp any more, 
went back to bed and slept quietly the rest of the night. His 
consternation can be better imagined than described, on see- 
ing the remains of the harmless insect in the morning. ■ 

This story reminded Mr. Lampman of one of the students 
at Yale, who had a watch that he would not allow anyone to 
wind. He was brought home by his companions one night 
quite intoxicated, and from the force of habit, attempted to 
wind his watch, but instead of placing the key right, he put 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

it on the place for regulating the hands, which flew round 
and round for several minutes, much to the amusement of his 
comrades who were watching him! Dr. Dodd remarked that 
he guessed the young man must have thought before he got 
through that his watch would run for awhile. 

Another story was of one of the students who sent a bou- 
quet of flowers to a young lady friend of his named ''Katy." 
After he had it all nicely arranged he heard a katydid chirp, 
and was fortunate enough after a short search to secure the 
little insect, which he tied into the center of the bouquet and 
sent to the room of the young lady. Just as soon as it was 
dark, the katydid began its song, but ceased when a light was 
brought. The young lady was kept awake by the sound, her 
efforts to find the originator being unsuccessful. The next 
morning she bethought herself of the bouquet, and threw it 
out of the window. 

This story was hastily finished as we heard the sounds 
of life proceeding from Robert's room. "Who has been sew- 
ing up my nightgown r' (more exclamatory than otherwise). 
"Mr. Lampman! Mr. Lampman!" 

"What is it, Bob?" 

"Somebody's been sewing up my nightgown, and I shall 
be late to bed!" 

It is a rule of his tutor that Bob must be in bed by ten 
o'clock. Mr. Lampman, magnanimously: 

"Well, Bob, get into bed as soon as you can." As he 
looked in upon him, he returned laughing and remarked, 
' ' Bob always puts his light out before getting into bed. ' ' We 
had only a moment more to wait before most unmistakable 
sounds of laughing indignation greeted us, and Mr. Lampman, 
Monsieur Chevalier, Dr. Dodd and Monsieur Leon entered 
Robert's room pell-mell. Mr. Lampman struck a light, which 

[i68] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

revealed Master Bob sitting up in bed looking so ludicrously 
helpless that they all roared with laughter, in which they were 
joined by the ladies in Mrs. Hubbard's room. 

Thursday, April 2 

Bob declares that he will play some trick upon somebody 
before the year is out, but he does not exactly know what or 
upon whom to play it. 

Mr. Lampman has been reading Lamartine's "Jocelyn," 
and goes into ecstasies over it. Lamartine still lives, but, sad 
to relate, is a recipient of public charity, that is to say, is 
supported by voluntary contributions. He lives in Paris dur- 
ing the winter, and has a chateau at St. Point. It is from 
here that Monsieur obtains his table-wine for the spring and 
summer. Every now and then the poet puts a notice in the 
public journals to the effect that his creditors are pressing him 
for money, and suggesting that he will be willing to accept 
aid from any who may feel disposed to contribute, that he 
may not be obliged to sell his beautiful vineyards. The French 
people, who are proud of his genius, respond to the call, which 
occurs about once a year. 

Had to-day at dejeuner the usual Friday religious dis- 
cussion conducted by Dr. Dodd, Madame Chevalier and Mr. 
Lampman. The auditors all left except Mrs. Dodd and me ; we 
waited till the end. As I was about going to my room, Madame 
called me into her chamber to show me some books. While I 
was there, Master Robert brought me a message from Mon- 
sieur Chevalier saying that Mrs. Hubbard was going to take 
only a dictee, and he would go to walk with us if agreeable 
and would be ready a une heure et demie, which is to say half- 
past one. I mistook the message for ^'dans une heure et 
demie/' in an hour and a half, and was consequently much 

[169] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

astonished when Monsieur entered at the appointed time ex- 
pecting to find us all ready to start ; and he was equally sur- 
prised to find me still talking to Madame, thinking I had at 
least an hour more. However, as soon as possible we started, 
taking with us La Fontaine's Fables for the purpose of get- 
ting them bound. 

We proceeded to the Bois, and after walking about for a 
while, sat down on the grass under the shade of some ever- 
greens, which we found deliciously agreeable. Monsieur ad- 
vised us to go there every day with our books and study. We 
were sorry as the time drew near, three o'clock, when Monsieur 
must go, as usual, to give his petit disciple his lessons. 

Mrs. Hubbard, Dr. and Mrs. Dodd have been having their 
photographs taken, and for a week past, proofs of the numer- 
ous sittings have been sent home from time to time by the 
patient and persevering artist. Mrs. Hubbard's are not good 
at all, but the others do very well. Mrs. Hubbard had a head- 
ache, and I bathed her head for about half an hour, as Mon- 
sieur Chevalier was engaged with a caller, and I could not 
take my lesson. Mrs. Dodd during the time read aloud a letter 
which Mrs. Hubbard had that day received from Miss Rice, 
giving an account of her visits to the Houses of Parliament 
and Westminster Abbey, and her good fortune in getting a 
view of the little ' ' dumpy Queen, ' ' etc., etc. 

Monsieur Chevalier was at liberty at a quarter before 
nine, when I took my lesson, after which he translated some 
more of ''Topsy" into English. 

Saturday, April 4 

Mrs. Dodd, Mrs. Hubbard and Robert came to our room 
after dejeuner to see about some photographs. 

Another beautiful day, so warm that a shade seems agree- 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

able. In the middle of the afternoon, Mrs. Hubbard came in 
with a headache, tired and hungry from shopping. She sat 
down, and Ellie went upstairs to order some wine and cake 
for her. So she sat with us and chatted while eating and read 
a letter full of commissions from her sister-in-law. The letter 
was very interesting. 

Sunday, April 5 

Attended service at the French chapel and heard Rev. 
Monsieur E. de Pressense, who preached from John 10:33, 
''Mais prenez courage; j'ai vaincu le monde." Walked both 
ways and found it very warm. Two Frenchmen slightly 
intoxicated followed us for some distance, calling us ' ' angels ' ' 
or "monkeys," we were undecided which, "singe" and 
"ange" sounding so much alike. 

It is Palm Sunday, and women and children with their 
arms full of palm branches stand in the rues and boulevards 
soliciting patronage. The omnibuses and water-carts are be- 
decked and nearly every one you meet carries a sprig of palm. 

To-day is the commemoration of Christ's entrance into 
Jerusalem. One of the expounders of Scripture, explaining 
this passage, said that "Notwithstanding all the obstacles 
thrown in His way, our Saviour succeeded in effecting an en- 
trance into the Holy City ! " 

All had been to cafe when we arrived at home except 
Mrs. Dodd. After cafe I took a nap while Ellie and Robert 
read together "A Mine Explored." 

About half-past three Mrs. Dodd came in and asked me 
to go to the Bois de Boulogne for a walk before dinner. I did 
not feel much like it, but we went. I did not enjoy it as much 
as I should have if it had been a quieter place. Tout le monde 
was there riding, walking, or sitting in the chairs which lined 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the avenues. We went up by a lake where we sat down and 
admired the shadows in the water, watched the ducks and the 
stately swans with their long, flexible necks, as they sailed 
majestically upon the water. Just as we were about leaving 
the Bois, we saw the sun setting in such splendor that 
we sat down on a seat to watch his glorious disappearance. 
We were late to dinner in consequence. Met Dr. Dodd at the 
head of the stairs leading from the dining-room, who informed 
us that the chicken was all eaten. We found the table de- 
serted by all but Madame, who awaited us. We enjoyed our 
dinner exceedingly, notwithstanding the ominous insinuations 
of Madame in regard to the scarcity and frigidity of the 
viands, which were immediately followed up by Anna with 
delicious soup, rice, chicken, and various et ceteras. 

Heard Dr. Dodd singing with Monsieur Chevalier in the 
chamber of the latter. Mrs. Dodd went in to look after him, 
while I was intercepted and prevented from descending to 
my room by Monsieur Chevalier, who overtook and brought 
me back. Went into the room of Robert, whose window was 
open opposite Madame 's room, where Mrs. Hubbard, Mrs. 
Dodd, Mr. Lampman, Robert, Ellie and I sat and sang hymns, 
while Monsieur, Madame, and Dr. Dodd sat in the window 
opposite and "joined in." After a while Madame came also 
into Robert 's room. We watcher the moon rising over the roofs 
and chimneys until she shed a silvery light over our faces. 
Madame went to her room to see how we looked by moonlight. 
She returned presently with some cakes which she distributed 
and then bade us good-night. 

Mr. Lampman showed me a sketch of a view from his 
window and also one of Robert as he appeared, or rather dis- 
appeared, into his nightgown on the first of April, his sleeves 
hanging helplessly down; and a second view of him as he 

[172] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sat up in bed. Mr. Lampman took his pipe and prepared for 
a fume. We talked awhile of Prof. Mark Bailey, and as it 
was nearly ten o'clock, separated for the night. 

Tuesday, April 6 

Started out alone this afternoon to do some shopping; 
after which I went over to the other side of the river to call 
on the Griswolds, who were out. I rested a few minutes and 
returned via the Champs Ely sees. Met the Emperor 's carriage 
just returning from the Bois. 

At dinner Monsieur Chevalier and Mr. Lampman told 
original stories, competing with each other to see who could 
tell the ''biggest." The object was to prove the superior rich- 
ness and fertility of the soil of their respective countries. 
Monsieur Chevalier said that he saw a cabbage which grew 
in the south of France, so large that the heart of it fed a regi- 
ment of soldiers for six months, and the rest of it was set up 
as a tent, the different leaves forming the separate partitions, 
where the poor of the village were sheltered during the winter ! 

Mr. Lampman was not at all surprisd at that. He said 
one warm summer's day, when he was on his grandfather's 
farm in Coxsackie, he felt tired, and taking a book, lay down 
on the grass to read. He fell asleep, and when he awoke, he 
found himself reposing among the branches of a tree several 
hundred feet high, which had pushed up through the ground 
under him while he was asleep. ''Ah-h," said Monsieur, with 
an accent of the utmost credulity, his usual response after one 
of Mr. Lampman 's big stories. 

Went into Mrs. Hubbard's room to see her new white 
alpaca morning-dress. After she had put it on, Mr. Lampman 
and Monsieur Chevalier came in to see it. Mr. Lampman said, 
"Oh! it is cunning, Mrs. Hubbard!" with an accent so comi- 



MY LIFE m PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

cally flat that we all burst out laughing. He said he did not 
think those ' ' wrinkles in the back ' ' looked well, and if it were 
his, he should have it ''fixed,'' then added, "But there! it 
looks cunning, Mrs. Hubbard!" 

"When are you going to wear it?" he continued. 

"Oh, early in the morning, Mr. Lampman." 

"Yes, before you are up," added another, referring to 
his habit of late rising. 

"Yes," said he, "I thought that was the kind of dress, 
but I never saw one so much trimmed before ! ' ' Exit Mr. 
Lampman with Mrs. Hubbard after him. 

Wednesday, April 8 

Monsieur Leon dined here. Played squalls and whist. 
Madame has a new cuisiniere in place of Armadine, who left 
some time ago. Her name is Julie, and she has a very pleasant 
face and handsome eyes. She went with Ellie to light her 
lamp for her to go to bed and made many inquiries of her in 
regard to the manners and customs in America. Among other 
things Ellie told her that the Sabbath was much more observed 
at home than it was here, when she innocently asked, how 
often we observed it. Ellie told her once a week only. "Oh," 
she said, ' ' We do that here ! ' ' 

Thursday, April 9 

Sunshine and shade. Had a fish for dinner brought in 
on a board covered with a white cloth. It looked quite im- 
posing in its green trimmings. Madame came in from church 
while I was studying my dictee and sat talking until after 
twelve o'clock about religions, Protestant vs. Catholic. She 
says she has a small piece of the real cross ! It was given her 
by a Prince, in whose family it had been handed down for 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

generations, and it was presented to the family of this Prince 
by a Cardinal, who was a relative. The true cross was discov- 
ered in this way: The mother of Constantine the Great, St. 
Helena, was very ill once upon a time and said that she should 
recover if she could be laid upon the true cross. Three crosses 
were found buried beside each other near the place of the 
crucifixion; they were beyond doubt the three mentioned in 
the history of the crucifixion. Ste. Helena discovered which 
of the three was the cross of our Saviour. She was laid upon 
two of these crosses without any beneficial effects, but being 
laid upon the third, she was immediately restored to health! 
This is the first foolish belief I have ever heard Madame ex- 
press, and I wonder any one so intelligent can credit any- 
thing so absurd. 

Friday, April 10 

Good Friday. There was a severe snowstorm, which lasted 
about ten minutes this morning. The flakes were at least ' ' two 
inches in diameter," so says Master Robert. 

The effects of Mrs. Hubbard's and Mrs. Dodd's shopping- 
expedition were manifested this morning by the arrival of 
various dresses, bonnets, etc., and quite a little excitement was 
occasioned by the " tryings-on. " 

Went to Notre Dame with Monsieur this evening to hear 
Pere Felix, the celebrated priest in the Romish church. He 
was very animated and eloquent and spoke in a voice so clear 
as to be heard distinctly in this great cathedral. The whole 
body of the edifice was filled with men, and no women were 
admitted inside the railings. We went first to the left and 
then to the right in search of an agreeable standing-place, but 
not being successful, we decided to go up into one of the gal- 
leries. The entrance to the galleries was outside the cathedral 

[175] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

in a sort of court. We counted 84 steps as we mounted. We 
were admitted by paying the required fee to an old woman 
who stood at the entrance. Flights of steps at different inter- 
vals led to a staging which was placed in the rear of the 
balustrade. One of these Monsieur mounted in advance of 
me. He encountered an obstacle at the top stair in the shape 
of a long-necked, light-haired nymph, who sat in a chair listen- 
ing to Pere Felix with an attention apparently so absorbed 
as to be quite oblivious of her own identity or of the existence 
of anyone near her, but in reality she was very much annoyed 
at being disturbed and responded very snappishly, ''Ou 
voulez-vous que j'aille!" to Monsieur's polite ''Pardon, Mad- 
ame, will you please move a little that we may pass?" Mon- 
sieur suggested that she move somewhere that she might not 
serve as a barricade to the passage, and left her to her own 
reflections. 

The cathedral looked beautiful from this high point of 
view, the candles and the sea of heads so far below, and the 
graceful architecture above. 

After the Pere Felix had finished, the Stabat Mater was 
chanted by the choir, and then the Holy Relics were paraded 
around the church upon the shoulders of several priests in 
white robes, preceded by boys holding long tapers. We 
watched them until they disappeared from view in the 
sacristy, and the exercises being over, we left the church. 

It was a magnificent night, and we decided to walk home, 
notwithstanding it was rather a long distance. The lights 
on the Seine were beautifully reflected in the water as we 
passed over the bridge. 

Sctturday, April 11 
I went into Mrs. Hubbard's room after cafe and read 

[176] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

aloud from a little book of quaint old English ballads to 
Mrs. Hubbard and Mrs. Dodd while the former finished the 
packing of her trunks. 

In the afternoon had a hair-dressing performance in Mrs. 
Hubbard's room where the enfant terrible, Robert, caused us 
''great and fiery trials." Mrs. Dodd was made beautiful by 
having her light golden hair arranged in curls and tied with a 
blue ribbon. 

At dinner to-day Mr. Lampman attacked Madame upon 
her absurd belief in regard to possession of a piece of the 
true cross. Madame exclaimed ''Quelle horreur!" as Mr. 
Lampman went on with his remarks. Monsieur Chevalier, 
who has a happy tact of turning the conversation when it 
becomes too earnest, when Mr. Lampman said to Madame, 
"I am sure you are too sensible to believe anything so ab- 
surd," and Madame responded, "Yes, I believe it, but I can't 
show it to you for you mock at it," remarked: "I have a 
piece of the true cross too," pointing to Madame who was 
just then busily engaged in talking German with Dr. Dodd. 
the rest of us burst into a peal of laughter, Mr. Lampman 
clapping his hands in ecstasy, "Pol" laughing too. "Pol" 
is the contraction for Leopold, and is Madame 's pet name for 
Monsieur. 

Sunday, April 12 

Went with Monsieur and Madame Chevalier to Notre 
Dame to witness the Vesper Service. It was conducted with 
great pomp and ceremony, one of the Archbishops being 
present. The cathedral was filled with people, and the service 
had already commenced when we entered, but we obtained 
good places for seeing the great official pass and repass in 
his robes of state from the church to the sacristy, escorted 

['177] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

by boys with lighted tapers, priests in embroidered robes, fol- 
lowed by the cuisiniers in awkward black gowns, white caps, 
and aprons. The altar-service was conducted in the usual 
manner, a priest chanting in Latin and the people respond- 
ing, while two young men were employed in front of the altar 
in tossing up the brazen censers until the house was filled with 
fragrant odor. The Archbishop, having doffed his mitre and 
placed it in the keeping of a little page, another taking charge 
of the cross, pronounced the benediction. The deep tones of 
the grand organ, which is played only on state occasions, re- 
verberated through the aisles and filled the magnificent edifice 
with such a melody of music that you seemed to be floating 
on a sea of sound. The service ended, the Archbishop resumed 
his mitre and cross, and with his train passed from the scene 
of action. The candles before the altar were extinguished, and 
the people left the church. 

As there were ^Ye in the carriage and places for only 
four, Monsieur took Ellie on his knee. In passing the Palace 
of the Tuileries we noticed quite a concourse of people in the 
street, who seemed to be interested in looking at something. 
It was not to witness the passing of our carriage, as one of the 
occupants suggested it might be, but to see the Emperor, who 
in company with three gentlemen, was out on the terrace. 

After dinner we went into the salon, where Monsieur and 
Madame sang to us the ' ' Miserere, " the ' ' Stabat Mater, ' ' and 
other selections. Madame has been quite a singer, and Mon- 
sieur has a very pleasant voice and a cultivated ear. 

Monday, April 13 

Went to witness the races at Longchamps in company with 
Monsieur and Madame Chevalier. Enjoyed the walk through 
the Bois, notwithstanding it was rather long. Madame stopped 

[178] 



MY LIFE m PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

every now and then to pick the flowers she spied in the grass 
at her feet. The trees looked charming in their fresh green 
foliage and "the earth sent up a pleasant smell." 

The races had commenced when we arrived, but as there 
were yet three courses remaining, we paid the franc required 
to admit us to the inner circle. 

The horses were beautiful animals, and it was perfectly 
exciting when they rushed by us like the wind, their hoofs 
throwing the earth high in the air. The jockeys who rode 
them were dressed in different-colored suits and were easily 
recognized by the "betters," who watched with the most in- 
tense interest the steeds upon which they had staked so many 
francs. Between the courses we were scarcely less entertaind 
in watching the elegantly dressed occupants of the various 
carriages; some of them were very beautiful. It was so late, 
and, moreover, so uncomfortably cold, that we followed the 
example of many others and left the grounds before the last 
course. 

On our way out we met the young Prince de Berghes, with 
whom Madame stopped to speak. He pointed out to her a 
beautiful young lady, seated in an elegant carriage, as his 
companion for the day, and suggested to Madame that she need 
not deliver the lecture he knew she had ready, for he knew 
all she would say. Madame says he is one of the most charm- 
ing persons, and next to Monsieur she loves him best of any- 
body in the world. He tells her all his affairs, has not a secret 
from her. 

On the way home she told me some of the manners and 
customs in France, which shocked my ideas of propriety. 

Spent a pleasant evening in the salon with the rest of the 
family. Dr. Dodd read aloud a piece from the Atlantic 
Monthly entitled "The Young Desperado," by T. B. Aldrich, 

[i79l 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

very amusing and finely written, and we laughed immoder- 
ately over Johnny's pranks simply because we couldn't help 
it. He also read from the Continental Gazette, an American 
paper published in Paris, a letter from Africa, also exceed- 
ingly droll. 

Madame then told some court items which had been told 
her by the dames d'honneur and were therefore reliable. The 
Empress dressed herself one evening for a masquerade, tak- 
ing the character of Diana. She was very beautiful, but was 
''too much dressed" to please the Emperor, who entering the 
chamber, said, ''Madame, you will not go to-night in that 
dress," and she did not go. Madame says the Empress, and 
the ladies of the court, stand during the ceremony of taking 
coffee after dinner. 

Mr. Lampman returned from the races with a bouquet 
of most beautiful rosebuds half -blown, of which he gave each 
of us one to wear in our buttonholes. 

Tuesday, April 14 

Madame invited Monsieur Leon and a former pupil of 
Monsieur Chevalier's, Marcel de Cermany, a young Count, to 
dine with us. Monsieur Leon came, but the other gentleman 
sent a note to say that he was suffering from an indisposition. 
The note was delayed by some fault of the concierge, and 
Madame sat down to dinner rather indignant at what she 
considered a decided breach of etiquette, expressing herself 
to that effect. Monsieur Leon wore a "swallow-tail" and was 
in full dress. He left at about half-past eight to attend a 
soiree given by one of the ladies of the court, with whom he 
often dines. The gentlemen went out to a game of billiards 
leaving the salon to the ladies. 

[i8o] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, April 15 

Went into Mrs. Dodd's salon after cafe, where Mrs. Hub- 
bard read aloud from my journal, regretting all the while that 
she had not kept a similar one, until Anna came in to announce 
dejeuner. Anna, by the way, is an excellent domestic, very 
honest and faithful. She has a remarkable talent at clearing- 
up, which she exercises in putting away things in the most 
unheard-of places, causing the owners much loss of time in 
hunting them up, but they are sure of finding them all safe 
at last if they persevere to the end. Dr. Dodd says that every 
morning she very faithfully squeezes out and places to dry a 
sponge which lies in a saucer. He tries to keep the sponge 
wet for the purpose of wiping his pen upon it. 

This evening Dr. Dodd received tickets of admittance to 
the Hotel de Ville and invited us to accompany him there 
to-morrow. 

The doctor, who had been making some inquiries of Ellie 
about Manchester, N. H., U. S. A., greeted me as I descended 
to my room after dejeuner with, ' ' So you know the Ellises, do 
you? We traveled with them through Italy and a part of 
Switzerland." He wished to know the address of Mr. Ellis, 
with whom he was very much pleased. 

Mrs. Dodd brought into our room a little Swiss shoe- 
maker's shop beautifully carved from wood, the proprietor 
and his customer both being bears. The proprietor in leather 
apron and spectacles, was just about to take the measure of 
his patron, who was sitting upon a bench holding up one foot 
in the most natural manner. The shop was furnished com- 
pletely throughout with everything pertaining to this branch 
of business ; benches, awls, pegs, lasts, etc. In one corner was 
a large roll of leather, while specimens of the shoemaker's 

[i8i] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

handiwork in the shape of boots, shoes and upper leathers 
were arranged very naturally. 

Thursday, April 16 
Did not go to the Hotel de Ville, as it was rainy. 

Friday, April 17 

Mrs. Hubbard read again in my journal. In the after- 
noon I went with her and Mrs. Dodd to the Bon Marche and 
the Petit St. Thomas on a shopping tour, and tried to find 
a- pattern for a polonaise to send to London. They will cut 
patterns from material for garments, but they will not sell 
patterns at any price. 

The daughter of General Dix, our Minister to France, 
was married to-day. Mrs. Hubbard's friends, the Farnhams, 
who had invitations to the ceremony, sent for her to come and 
see them after they were all dressed for the occasion. Mrs. 
Hubbard said they were dressed most elegantly, Mrs. Famham 
in silk, lace, and diamonds with a very elaborate coiffure; her 
daughter in a changeable rose-and-blue silk with a Marie 
Antoinette fichu, the loveliest rose-colored gloves to match, 
and a little hat with a very long lace-trimming. 

In the evening, I accompanied Monsieur Chevalier, who 
went out to search for Julie, to get her to come again and 
officiate in the kitchen, as the cook, who has taken her place, is 
not satisfactory to Madame. But the address was not correct, 
and the search was fruitless. We called at a house situated 
behind a church, which we thought might be the one, as it had 
no number. Monsieur pulled the bell at the gate twice before 
we could obtain admittance. The gate at last flew open, and 
we entered a garden, ascended a flight of broad stone steps, 
which led to a handsome glass vestibule, and found at the 

[182] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

door two women in white caps, probably servants, who had 
come to see who was there at that late hour, it being after nine 
o'clock. They had a half -frightened air, but Monsieur's 
polite apology for troubling them, followed by a statement of 
his errand, set them at ease. They knev/ nothing concerning 
the whereabout of Julie; so we gave up the search, and after 
a short walk on the Champs Elysees, returned home, just in 
time to escape a heavy shower, 

Saturday, April 18 

Madame Chevalier came down to sit with me awhile, 
bringing her tatting. She says they call this sort of work 
frivolite here. 

Mrs. Hubbard, Dr. and Mrs. Dodd went to Fontainebleau 
early this morning. Mrs. Hubbard went for her little boys, 
as they sail soon for America. They came home in season for 
dinner. Willie and Harry are pretty boys, and it is pleasant 
to see them again. Madame Chevalier says they speak French 
perfectly now. When they were here before, they preferred 
to speak English, but now, to their mamma's delight, they 
sometimes begin a sentence in English and unconsciously finish 
it in Prench ; the language has become so familiar to them. 

Mrs. Hubbard sails in the China a week from to-day and 
will leave here next Wednesday morning. 

To-day Robert brought down his journal, a ruler, and 
some red ink with a request that I should mark the marginal 
lines for him. Just as I had finished, the ink-bottle, by some 
unknown force was overturned, the contents fortunately con- 
fining themselves to the woodwork of the table. 

After dinner Monsieur came in to replace one of the 
castors of an easy-chair, and while he was thus engaged, Anna 
brought in his coffee, much to our amusement. So he sat 

[183] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

down, and while he drank it, Mr. Lampman came in to ask 
Monsieur to accompany Dr. Dodd and him to a game of bil- 
liards. This reminds me, the other evening, as they were 
taking their coffee in the salon, Dr. Dodd inquired, ' ' Are yon 
going out for a game of billiards this evening, Mr. Lampman ? ' ' 

''No," replied Mr. Lampman, applying a match to his 
freshly filled pipe as he settled himself in an easy-chair for 
a fume. 

'^1 am going to the Young Men^s Christian Association 
this evening, Doctor." 

The response was such a contrast to what one was led 
to expect from the question, and struck us so ludicrously that 
I could not help laughing, when forthwith, Mr. Lampman 
began a serious remonstrance. 

"Now Mademoiselle Stanton, there is nothing wrong in 
billiards ; I used to think — ' ' He had arrived at this point 
when Mrs. Hubbard, setting her cup down, remarked: 

' ' I heard a lady say the other day that she thought Mr. 
Lampman would be a pretty liberal minister." 

This evening looked over an illustrated edition of 
Goethe's "Reynard, the Fox." 

Sunday, April 19 

Rainy. Did not go to church. Sat in the salon all the 
morning and listened while Madame read from Lamartine's 
Jocelyn. Cafe was announced before I had any idea it was 
ready, and I went to the table quite en deshabille. Mr. Lamp- 
man remarked that my hair looked very nice, but he did not 
believe I had brushed it three hundred times. 

After cafe Mrs. Dodd came downstairs with me and we 
arranged ourselves comfortably upon the bed, where I read 
aloud from my extract-book until it was time to dress for 

[184] 






Mrs. Hubbard 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

dinner. While I was in the midst of arranging my hair, there 
came a rap at the door, and, thinking it was Anna, Ellie said, 
''Entrez," when who should appear but Monsieur Chevalier, 
who came to ask me to go up to the salon and continue the 
reading in Jocelyn. He had in his hands his photograph 
proofs which had just been sent, and they were excellent. 

Monday, April 20 

Last evening Mrs. Hubbard turned a bottle of ink over 
her new gray walking-costume, much to her dismay, as she 
had been so choice of it that it might be fresh and elegant in 
Alnerica. 

This morning we adjourned from cafe to hold a consulta- 
tion over the injury to the gray dress. It was decided that 
a new front breadth should be put in, and Madame Chevalier's 
seamstress, Angelina, will arrange it for her. 

Monsieur Chevalier breakfasted with us to-day, which is 
an exception to the general rule. 

Robert Olyphant has taken up the new habit of sitting 
upon the two legs of his chair lately, and little Henry Hubbard 
has been ''trying it on/' 

We have given up the custom paying forfeits for speak- 
ing English, as we so seldom break the rule. The little green 
tirelire, which for many days past has rested undisturbed in 
a cupboard of the sideboard, was brought to light to-day, and 
seemed like a familiar friend. The contents were counted 
and amounted to about five francs, which we expended in ice- 
cream, as the poor woman who was the recipient of our former 
contributions has been placed in the Maison des Petit es Soeurs 
des Pauvres, where she will be made comfortable for the rest 
of her life. 

While we were deciding this matter. Master Olyphant, 

[i8S] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

often alluded to, came down upon the floor rather forcibly in 
company with a chair which refused to support him on two 
legs. Monsieur assisted him to rise, while the rest of us in- 
dulged in a laugh at his expense. No bones were broken, es- 
pecially in the chair. As I write, Robert has entered our 
chamber and keeps me in a continual state of expectation 
that he will break the wardrobe or some other article of furni- 
ture in his philosophical experiments. He has just now 
stopped, quite out of breath, in the midst of a swift race 
around a chair, which at the same time he was whirling vio- 
lently on one of its legs as an axis, illustrating the revolutions 
of some of the heavenly bodies, to deliver himself of the fol- 
lowing obscure remark: 

' ' The satellites of Uranus revolve in a direction contrary 
to the direction of any of the planets or their satellites, or the 
direction in which the sun revolves on its axis, or of the sun's 
revolution around the great center of the universe!" Willie 
and Harry Hubbard have come for him to go to a bath, and 
I can once more breathe freely. 

Our little hlanchisseuse has brought us to-day a white 
gillyflower in blossom. The other beautiful little plant has 
been blossoming ever since she brought it, giving to our room 
a bright, cheerful air, but now has only its fresh green leaves 
to recommend it to notice. 

At eight o'clock this evening had ice-cream, cake, and 
oranges in honor of Mrs. Hubbard's near departure. Little 
Harry came down to my room and rang the bell to give me 
a good-night. He is a darling little boy. After dinner the 
children had a frolic in the salon with Monsieur Chevalier, 
who seemed to enjoy it as much as any of them. Recited my 
lesson as usual. 

[i86] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday f April 21 

Went with Ellie, Robert, and the little Hubbards to the 
photographer's, where the last three had their pictures taken. 
The artist was a small boy whose clothes seemed to suffer from 
his profession, as they were mostly eaten by chemicals. Robert 
patronized him because his terms were so cheap. His salon 
was very unpretentious, but he seemed to have all the ma- 
chinery for taking pictures. His first effort was to take the 
street, all of us being ranged in front of his door. It was 
accomplished just as our position had begun to attract too 
much attention to be agreeable. While we were there, Dr. 
and Mrs. Dodd and Mrs. Hubbard called on their way down 
town. The establishment was being painted, a fact to which 
the new trousers of Master Willie bore witness. 

This evening coffee was served in the salon. Mrs. Hub- 
bard's cup was mysteriously affected, and she ''enjoyed great 
trials" in getting it sweetened to her taste. The sugar which 
she placed in it lump after lump, by some queer combination 
unmentioned in chemistry, became suddenly transformed into 
''canards," which mysteriously drank her coffee and after- 
wards disappeared down the throats of any that had their 
mouths open, rendering them speechless for some time after. 

Played two games of Muggins, a game in which the most 
unfair things are fairest, and where one's fortunes, depending 
upon a word or a look, change more rapidly than ever was 
known in a petroleum speculation. All retired early in order 
to rise betimes in the morning. Read a little in Jocelyn. 

Wednesday, April 22 

Mrs. Hubbard left here at eight o'clock this morning. 
According to promise, Madame awoke me at half-past four, 

[187] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

just as I was dreaming that I ought to wake up but couldn't. 
They were all seated at cafe when I entered the dining-room 
excepting Dr. and Mrs. Dodd, even to Mr. Lampman, who 
protested against such an early appearance, by declaring his 
intention of going to bed again and having something to eat 
after he got up. 

Cafe over, and Mrs. Hubbard's cup being as full as at the 
commencement, we all followed Mrs. Hubbard to her desolate- 
looking room, where we stood trying to be cheerful, but 
' ' There 's a sigh in the heart though the lips may be gay, ' ' and 
we did not know whether to be more glad or sorry, since part 
we must, when little Harry, who was keeping a general look- 
out, innocently made some remark about a small omnibus 
which had been waiting some time at the door, and which 
proved to be for them. So they are gone, and there will be 
no more fears that Mrs. Hubbard will not finish her affairs 
in time for dejeuner, and that Anna won't keep the potatoes 
and the omelet hot for her. 

After dejeuner, Mrs. Dodd and I went to call on Mrs. 
Hubbard 's room. Anna had got it into a sort of crysalis state, 
the bed made, the carpet swept, but the chairs were in gen- 
eral confusion and everything was covered with dust. "We 
were soon joined by Robert, Monsieur Chevalier, Madame, and 
Mr. Lampman, the last coming in with the air of a proprietor, 
which air was explained in a few words from Monsieur 
Chevalier, who informed us that this was Mr. Lampman 's 
room now. Mrs. Dodd commenced dusting vigorously. Seeing 
the door into Mr. Lampman 's room open, she took a survey 
there, and finding a vest of his on a chair, she abstracted 
thereform my long-stolen pocket-pincushion, which he has 
sported for several months. 

After I had returned to my room, Dr. Dodd sent in some 

[i88] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

pictures for us to look at, and soon after came in himself to 
write their names on them. Before he left, I discovered that 
my watch was missing, and when I expressed my surprise, he 
took himself away rather hastily without exhibiting the least 
sympathy, which rather aroused my suspicions. Bllie went 
upstairs to inquire of Anna respecting its whereabouts, but 
Anna knew nothing about it; Mrs. Dodd, however, who was 
in the salon with Madame Chevalier taking her lesson, sent 
down word for me to " hunt, ' ' and she would come and help me 
very soon. So I did not hunt any more, being sure she knew 
where it was. It seems that there was a conspiracy against 
me, with Mrs. Dodd at its head, for going out and leaving 
my room door open. 

Went this afternoon to the Jar din d'AcdimaiaUon. The 
day was superb, and the Bois seemed almost like a land of 
dreams. The long and beautiful rows of trees in their early 
spring dress cast an agreeable shade. Lines of forsaken car- 
riages waited for the occupants, who had left them for a 
promenade down the avenues, or a stroll upon the greensward. 
Women with baskets by their sides, sat in little groups upon 
the grass, some with children playing about them, playing 
themselves with little fat, black-eyed babies that laughed and 
crowed gleefully, some industriously sewing, and all looking 
so happy and rural that it seemed a perfect Arcadia. 

We paid our franc and found ourselves in the Jardin, the 
entrance to which was adorned with gay flags. It was an 
exposition day of the poidets. We visited the various places 
of attraction upon the grounds, the first being a conservatory 
filled with shrubs and flowers. In the center was a pond with 
goldfish. Callas and water-plants in blossom grew in the pond, 
which had its source in a little waterfall that gushed from a 
rock, and was spanned by a tiny bridge. Another establishment 

[189] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was filled with different kinds of birds, mostly cockatoos 
which chattered and screamed most unmusically. It was droll 
to see them hold their heads to each other to be scratched, 
taking turns in performing this generous work. 

The poulet department was quite extensive. I saw the 
different inventions for hatching eggs by heat. One of these 
was being explained by the proprietor, who held the cover up 
to exhibit the interior, and revealed one solitary little chicken. 
It was immediately snapped up by a little roguish black-eyed 
girl standing nearby. After administering an affectionate 
caress to the frightened little fowl and soliciting it for a second 
to hold it up to her father, she yielded to his expostulations 
and placed it in the box. The crowers were rather noisy, 
and Dr. Dodd would set the whole establishment on the qui 
vive by performing a "cock-i-doo-dle-doo-o-o" so naturally 
that it met with an immediate response. We passed the ducks 
and the swans and the geese, swimming in the ponds pro- 
vided for their benefit, and stood a long time watching some 
little kids skipping over the backs of dromedaries that were 
kneeling on the ground lazily chewing their cuds, and seem- 
ing quite contented with or quite oblivious of the depredations 
of their little companions, who in their innocence probably 
mistook their huge humps and uneven backs for the natural 
scenery of mountains and valleys. Three or four of these 
playful little creatures were scrambling over one of these 
landscapes, when all at once it rose upon its feet, and down 
they went tumbling helter-skelter amid the laughter of the 
spectators. 

We finally visited the aquarium, where we watched for 
some time the sea-horses, the corals, and the perambulating 
shells, after which we started for home, where we arrived just 
in time for dinner. 

[190] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Poor Mr. Lampman looks so desolate and lonely that we 
cannot help pitying him in spite of his general mechanceie. 
It is the more noticeable as he puts on an air of contented 
gaiety, the falsity of which we readily excuse under the 
circumstances. 

Instead of writing a dictee this evening, after reciting 
my lesson, I accompanied Monsieur Chevalier on a promenade. 
Just before we returned, the rain fell in torrents, but having 
taken the precaution to provide ourselves with umbrellas be- 
fore starting, we escaped a ducking. 

Thursday, April 23 

Went with Mrs. Dodd and Ellie to the Tomb of the 
Emperor. The day was so beautiful that we walked both 
ways. Called on Mrs. Griswold, while Ellie and Mrs. Dodd 
walked on to the tomb, where I joined them. On our way 
home we entered a cafe on the Champs Elysees and ordered 
some ice-cream. Mrs. Dodd purchased a comb at a little 
shop, and after we returned home, I began ''doin" her hair 
as Mrs. Hubbard once arranged it, but just as we had it nicely 
combed over her shoulders, some visiting-cards were sent in, 
bearing the names of two of the ' ' seven, ' ' and she was obliged 
to put it up most expeditiously. 

Met Robert on the Champs Elysees, and he informed us 
that he was in search of a flower to send to Mrs. Hubbard, 
but did not know whether he would be allowed to pick it; 
we suggested that there were plenty of flowers free in the Bois 
de Bouolgne, but he said it must be picked from the Champs 
Elysees. 

At dinner in answer to inquiries, we told where we had 
been shocking Madame 's ideas of conventionality. Monsieur 
said we did perfectly right, but Madame said it was highly 

[191] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

improper for us to go into a cafe, considering that we we^-e all 
so ''young and handsome." The ice-cream and cakes were so 
very nice, we concluded that ' ' where ignorance is bliss 'tis folly 
to be wise, ' ' though we would not do it again. 

Monsieur went with Dr. Dodd to a library to purchase 
some books. At dinner, in alluding to the circumstances, Mon- 
sieur Chevalier ventured to remark that the library they had 
visited was a very large and extensive establishment, when 
Mr. Lampman informed him that we had many in America 
four times as large, and pronounced Parisian shops generalh' 
small affairs in comparison with ours. Monsieur only said 
''Ah-h-h," with the peculiar intonation he is accustomed to 
use on receiving an astounding piece of information. Mr. 
Lampman continued: 

' ' Which is your largest establishment for dry-goods ? ' ' 

' ' The Louvre ! They have at this magasin, for the pur- 
pose of protecting it from robbers, a subterranean machine, 
which being turned round and round, lets the building down 
into the earth so that no trace of it is visible ' ' ! 

''That is something," said Mr. Lampman, "like the ma- 
chine they have at home at Stewart's in New York, a magasin, 
which, by the way, will be seven times larger than the Louvre, 
after it is finished. This machine raises the establishment, in- 
stead of lowering it, so high that it would be impossible for 
burglars to reach it ! " 

Robert added that they hung it on the horns of the moon. 
Mr. Lampman said that was a mistake of Robert's, as the 
establishment was so heavy that it would pull the moon down. 
Monsieur Chevalier suggested that if they should do that, the 
inhabitants of that satellite might come down to earth. Mr. 
Lampman said : 

[192] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

, *'0h, they have come down. They are seen quite fre- 
quently in America. We have one in our place." 

''Yes," said Robert, "there are a good many lunatics in 
Coxsackie," a joke astonishingly successful for Monsieur 
''Bobe," who is usually obliged to explain his efforts in that 
line before they are understood. 

After dinner, adjourned to the salon. While we were re- 
citing our lesson, Mr. Lampman came to get the cards for 
a game of solitaire. He is terribly lonely, I know. 

Friday, April 24 

All of us wrote to Mrs. Hubbard and sent to Queenstown, 
except Monsieur Chevalier, who had not the time. Robert was 
very anxious lest the letters should not be mailed in season. 
Recited our lesson and then looked over with Monsieur an 
illustrated edition of the Songs of Beranger, many of which 
Monsieur sang to us. One especially beautiful, both in regard 
to words and music, was "L'Etoile qui file." They say that 
the shooting of a star indicates the flight of a soul. There was 
an illustration for each verse. Monsieur says he will teach me 
the tune if I would like to learn it, and I am sure I should. 

Saturday, April 25 

Went to Versailles with Dr. and Mrs. Dodd. It was 
cloudy and dull when we started, but the day proved agreeable. 
In the same wagon with us was an old Count, who kept up a 
very animated conversation with his friends, laughing and 
gesticulating and shrugging his shoulders after the manner of 
his countrymen. 

On arriving at Versailles, Dr. Dodd engaged a carriage, 
the cocker at first asking two francs, to which the doctor ob- 
jected as being too much, and started off to find another 

[193] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

conveyance when the cocker called in a loud voice after him, 
'' J^ai une autre habitude monsieur," and ended by charging a 
franc and a half ; Dr. Dodd approving of the ' ' autre habitude ' ' 
engaged him to take us to the Grand Trianon. The guide into 
whose hands we fell proved very interesting, as he did not 
hurry us through the rooms. Among other things we saw 
rings taken from the fingers of some of Hannibars soldiers 
after a battle. Visited again the carriage-house and after- 
wards walked through the lovely grounds of the Little 
Trianon, and were shown over the Chateau. Walked along the 
banks of a stream until we came to the Swiss Village. The 
houses are used for barracks at present, but they looked pic- 
turesque and romantic. 

The Empress Eugenie takes much interest in everything 
relating to Marie Antoinette, and is trying to restore the 
Petite Trianon to its former beauty by replacing to the utmost 
of her power the things of former times. 

After taking a lunch of cake and wine at a little houtique 
near the grounds, superintended by a Jewish maiden of most 
unromantic appearance, we walked to the Palace. 

The grounds are magnificent, and the view from one of 
the terraces is almost unlimited. The canal stretching far 
away is bordered on either side by grand old trees. 

Our tickets admitted us to the private apartments of the 
palace, the Salle de la Pendule, the Confessional of Louis 
XIV., the bath-room, dressing-room, and boudoir of Marie 
Antoinette, her private library and the hihliotheque of Louis 
XIV. In the boudoir was a sofa, set in the midst of mirrors 
so arranged as to multiply the reflections repeatedly, one per- 
son forming a perfect crowd. Our guide remarked that the 
Queen reclined upon this sofa when tired. 

As we were passing through a gallery of statues, the guide 

[194] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

called our attention to two lean nymphs in marble, remarking 
that those were made just after Careme, which accounted for 
their extremely thin appearance, after which witticism, we 
were transferred to another guide in waiting who took us 
down to the theater. This completed our sight-seeing for the 
day. 

The palace at present is inhabited principally by guides 
in livery who stand about in each room ready to show every 
attention in their power to the many visitors, lifting their 
chapeaux with an air of polite deference each time they are 
addressed, until that article of dress has acquired an unsettled 
air as if in momentary expectation of being disturbed. These 
guides have acquired a sort of waddling gait from walking 
over the polished floors, like a duck out of its native element. 

As we were leaving the grounds, we were met by a little 
beggar-boy whose ragged apron was full of bread, which was 
piled nearly to his chin. I asked him if he was hungry, to 
which he responded, ''Oui, Madame/' in a tone so ludicrously 
pitiful that we could only laugh, hard-hearted and unfeeling 
wretches that we were. Eeturned to Paris by a different 
chemin de fer and along the route obtained fine views of the 
city. 

Sat a part of the evening with Dr. and Mrs. Dodd, dis- 
cussing Ananias and Sapphira, jewelry, etc. Monsieur and 
Madame de la Vilette dined with us, and we had no lesson. 

Sunday, April 26 

Eainy and disagreeable. Sat in the salon after breakfast 
and read with Monsieur in ' ' Jocelyn. ' ' Madame came in from 
market bringing me a beautiful bunch of lilies of the valley. 
Attended service in the afternoon at the Rue de Berri chapel 
with Mrs. Dodd. There were very few people present, and 

[1915] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the singing was principally performed by Mrs. Dr. Eldridge, 
two gentlement, and myself. Robert came to church, alone and 
sat in the pew with ns. After the service, stopped to speak 
with Mrs. Grieason, Mrs. Griswold, and little Ajinie. 

Monday, April 27 

Went shopping in the afternoon with EUie and Mrs. 
Dodd, but did not buy anything; tried to find a pretty 
walking-costume for EUie, but was unsuccessful. Took an 
open carriage on the Bue de Bac, by the hour, intending to 
drive in the Bois, but the cocker was so impudent that we 
dismissed him with only two sous for pourhoire. He walked 
his horse very slowly the whole distance, and when I requested 
him to drive faster, turned around and said ^^Pourquoi 
fairef" still continuing the same slow pace. After a while 
I spoke to him again, saying that all the other carriages passed 
us, and even the foot-passengers, when he said he did not wish 
to tire his horse. We arrived home just as the hour expired, 
and after paying him left him grumbling because we had not 
given him more. 

Tuesday, April 28 

Mr. Lampman has got possession of my little new Scotch- 
wood pocket-pincushion and refuses to give it up unless I 
return the old one. 

This afternoon we went out, first to Mr. Pepper's to see 
about Monsieur Chevalier's photographs. Sat out in the gar- 
den in some chairs which were arranged around a rustic table 
in the center, while Monsieur went to see about the pictures ; 
but it began to rain, and Mr. Pepper came out and invited us 
all in. Monsieur sat down to show us the expression he had 
had taken, and after looking at various specimens of his art, 

[196] 






#: 




Napoleon III 




^^m^^^^^tA^xm^p^ 




MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

we took our leave of Mr. Pepper, and proceeded to the Bois, 
where Madame soon had her hands full of flowers. Took a 
half-hour ride on the lake in a rowboat, first supplying our- 
selves with bread at a little hmitique for the purpose of feed- 
ing the ducks and swans. We passed between lovely green 
islands inhabited only by ducks, which with their little broods 
came out for the bread, sailing close up to the sides of the 
boat. One old swan gave my fingers a severe squeezing in 
trying to take some bread from them. 

On our way home through the Bois, Robert amused us 
all in his attempts to reckon up each one 's share of the expense 
of the boat-ride. He had great difficulty in finding out ''how 
many times four persons would go into three francs." 

At dinner Dr. Dodd and Mr. Lampman had an animated 
political discussion, the doctor being a Republican and Mr. 
Lampman a Democrat, the former getting quite fiery, but 
Mr. Lampman preserving his usual cool manner. 

Wednesday, April 29 

Went with Dr. and Mrs. Dodd to Saint Cloud. Took the 
''American horse cars" in the Avenue Josephine. Madame 
put up a lunch for us of sandwiches, ginger-snaps and oranges, 
which we enjoyed after our journey of less than an hour. 
We ate it in the open air in the beautiful park upon a seat 
which commanded a view of the chateau. Our guide was a 
stupid person, but in spite of him we enjoyed the trip over 
the chateau, which is the most beautiful palace I have yet 
visited. One room was especially interesting, the ' ' Swiss Salle, ' ' 
the walls and chimney-piece of which were in Swiss woodwork 
most exquisitely carved in graceful garlands and festoons of 
flowers, hanging as naturally as if they were real flowers. The 
floor was in beautiful colored wood-mosaic, so highly polished 

[197] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

that it seemed like glass. In the entrance hall is a large paint- 
ing in oil of the Reception of Queen Victoria at St. Cloud. 
The stairway is grand, its windows hung with heavy crimson- 
velvet curtains. The Salon of Apollo has a ceiling most elab- 
orately frescoed. It is very long and at the farther end upon 
a pedestal between two windows is a marble statue of the 
Empress Josephine, representing her as younger than I have 
ever seen her before. 

Their Majesties' dining-room is in rich, dark wood and 
hung with Gobelin tapestries. The sideboards are handsomely 
carved, and I fancied how beautifully the silver would con- 
trast with the dark wood when they are furnished. The Em- 
peror's bedchamber opens upon a lovely part of the garden, 
the foreground a green lawn terminating in a long avenue 
of majestic trees, whose branches interlace overhead. Here the 
Emperor takes his morning promenade unattended, like any of 
his subjects. The walls of the chamber are lined with crimson 
and white damask matching the bed-curtains. A toilette table 
furnished with Sevres china stands at the foot of the bed, while 
over the fireplace is a larger purple vase of the same ware, 
ornamented with a vignette of the Empress Eugenie, which 
is matched by another of the Emperor. 

From the windows of each of the rooms is a different view 
of the magnificent grounds. From one are seen lovely lawns 
ornamented with statuary and basins of various fountains; 
from another the entrances to broad avenues lined on either 
side with magnificent trees, whose tops interlacing, form per- 
fect arbors as far as the eye can reach. 

The walls of many of the rooms are completely covered 
with Gobelin tapestries. The apartments of the Empress, 
which are in another wing of the palace, are not open to the 
public. 

[198] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

After finishing the tour of the chateau we obtained per- 
mission to walk in the private grounds, our stupid guide being 
superseded by a soldier wearing the cross of the Legion of 
Honor and other decorations, who made himself very agree- 
able, as he unlocked various gates opening into different parts 
of this modern Garden of Eden. He conducted us to a 
''kiosk" in the midst of flowers and shrubbery, erected for 
the little Prince as a sort of study-house and occupied by 
himself and his preceptor a certain part of each morning when 
the Court sits at St. Cloud. It is a picturesque-looking affair 
with windows of stained glass which admit the light in soft- 
ened colors. 

The interior as seen from the balcony is handsomely fur- 
nished and looks fascinatingly attractive. In another part of 
the garden is his playground in which is a miniature chemin 
de fer, a station, a picturesque bridge, etc., the construction 
costing 25,000 francs. It once had an egine and wagons, 
but they are among the things that were. A circular plat 
of ground was announced as "His Little Majesty's Salle a 
Manger/' where he often takes his meals in the open air. 

It is impossible to describe these lovely grounds. They 
are a dreamland of beauty and excel all flights of the 
imagination. 

I must return to the chateau and describe the bibliotheque 
and the chapel. The former is lighted by a glass ceiling and 
looks not too magnificent to be comfortable and inviting. The 
walls are lined with shelves filled with elegantly bound volumes 
stamped with the letter "N." A long, plain, mahogany 
writing-table, upon one side of which are various easy-chairs, 
extends along one side. It would seem the most natural thing 
in the world to sit there and write a letter. 

The chapel is severely plain and unattractive. The gold 

[199] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and crimson chairs of their Majesties are placed behind a 
balcony commanding a view of the altar. Dr. Dodd rejoices 
that he is not Emperor, as he would not know which palace 
to choose, and would be unhappy that he could not live in all 
at the same time. I think I should choose St. Cloud. 

From the grounds is a magnificent view of Paris. 

We did not go to Sevres, as we at first thought of doing, 
but returned by the same omnibus in which we came, as the 
doctor tried in vain to hire a carriage. 

Thursday, April 30 

After dejeuner went to Munroe's accompanied by Mon- 
sieur Chevalier. Put my name down on the book of arrivals 
and expect to see it Saturday in the Continental Gazette. 
Went with Monsieur to the Bourse and afterwards to a lace 
manufacturer's, where he had some business in reference to 
purchasing a residence in Fontainebleau for Monsieur Leon's 
grandmother. By the way. Count Mniszech, M. Leon's father, 
has gone to Poland to visit his mother whom he has not seen 
for many years, having previously received a despatch an- 
nouncing that she was at the point of death and wished to see 
her long-absent son before she died. The old Countess was so 
overjoyed at the sight of him that instead of dying immedi- 
ately, she was restored to health, and now wishes to leave 
Poland and have a summer residence near Paris. 

The gentleman whom Monsieur wished to meet was not 
in town, but a pretty woman with her hair arranged in the 
style of the Empress Josephine, announced herself as his 
femme and said she understood the business. She conducted 
us into a little back-salon where she and Monsieur talked for 
about half an hour. She was very graceful and pretty, and 
I enjoyed hearing her talk. 

[200] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Purchased a little trefoil-shaped Scotch-wood pelotte a 
epingles on the way home to fill the place of the one Mr. 
Lampman has taken. Arrived home at a little after five 
o'clock. Monsieur, with his usual thoughtfulness, brought in 
an orange, lest I might be tempted to drink too much water 
after our rapid promenade. 

After diner went for a walk down the Champs Elysees 
with Mrs. Dodd, Monsieur and Madame Chevalier. The con- 
certs in the open air have commenced, and the avenue blazed 
with lights. Madame Chevalier made a call on the Duchesse 
de Berghes, while Mrs. Dodd, Monsieur and I took seats under 
some trees to wait for her. When she joined us again we all 
went to a cafe-concert where we sat until after ten o'clock. 
These concerts are free, only one is expected to buy some kind 
of refreshments. Mrs. Dodd and I took ice-creams and Mon- 
sieur and Madame each a glass of beer. Monsieur's glass re- 
mained untouched, and when I asked him why he did not 
drink it, he said it would make the honheur of Madame Cheva- 
lier if he did not, and he immediately placed his glass before 
her, removing her own, which was nearly empty, and taking 
from it a slight sip. Madame smiled upon him, graciously 
remarking that ''Pol" always did so. She told us one day 
the little romance of her falling in love. She was first inter- 
ested in Monsieur by observing that he only tasted the wine, 
while the other young men drank glass after glass. While 
taking our creams and beer, we were entertained by the music. 

Upon a sort of ornamental balcony of the playhouse, 
which was brilliantly lighted, were seated the "dramatis per- 
sonae, ' ' composed of women dressed mostly in pink and white 
shawls. The orchestra was arranged below and played the 
accompaniments, as one after another of these pink damsels 
Came forward to act her part. Some of the voices were very 

[201] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

fine. A young man in sailor costume came out and sang and 
danced, and afterwards a poor hossu, who seemed, with, good 
reason, to be quite a favorite of the public. He sang a 
mountaineer song, imitating to perfection the Swiss moun- 
taineers, so said Mrs. Dodd who has heard them. The last 
performance which we saw was a skating duet; so graceful 
and gliding were the figures they cut, that they seemed like 
fairies dancing in the moonlight. After this the curtain fell, 
and we retired during the entr'acte, and found ourselves tired 
enough on arriving home from our long promenade. 

Friday, May 1 

This morning. Dr. Dodd, in accordance with his usual 
custom, rapped upon the door which is between his salon and 
our chamber to tell us that it was time to get up. Madame 
Chevalier was not at cafe this morning, having a visitor in the 
salon. Monsieur came in, but even his presence was not 
enough to keep Mrs. Dodd's spirit of mischief tranquil. Mr. 
Lampman, as usual, was very late. As the coffee and sugar 
were in my vicinity, I attempted to retain them until he 
would promise to restore my little pincushion, but Monsieur 
Chevalier took his part. After cafe, went into Dr. Dodd's salon 
where I looked over his interesting collection of rare coins. 
One of them, a Polish coin, is stamped with the face of Prince 
Leon's grandfather, who was Alexander II., King of Poland. 
Went out in the evening with Monsieur for a promenade. Be- 
tween the moonlight and the street lights, it was almost like 
daylight. 

Saturday, May 2 

The glazier came to take the measure of the window-glass 
that broke so mysteriously yesterday when neither Robert nor 

[202] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

EUie was touching it. It was before cafe that Madame came 
to see if we would let him in. She was dressed for a walk 
and was going out to give Monsieur Leon his lesson and said, 
as she would not be here to take her cafe, I could sit in her 
place and be Madame Chevalier and do the honors, which I 
did accordingly and tu-toied Monsieur in the most approved 
style, called him "Pol," and administered a coup de pied 
under the table when he did not pay attention, at which he 
was highly amused, as were we all. Mr. Lampman did not 
appear at cafe. 

In the evening went to the Bois with Mrs. Dodd, Monsieur 
Chevalier, Robert, and Ellie. Had a trial at running. Mrs. 
Dodd runs like a witch, and of course beat. After that we 
had a game of ''Puss, Puss, in the corner!" Robert and Ellie 
returned home early. Monsieur accompanying them as far as 
the "barrier," while Mrs. Dodd and I waited on a bench until 
he came back. It was a perfectly lovely evening, warm as 
summer, and almost as bright as day. The avenue was gay 
with carriages, and we took a path a little removed where the 
trees arched above us, the moonlight falling between their 
trunks. We sauntered along, singing or silent as we felt the 
mood. Made the tour of the lake, admired the shadows in the 
water, explored a dark grotto near the borders. Monsieur 
striking a match to illuminate its dark recesses. We found 
at the extremity, comfortable seats, of which we availed our- 
selves. From our cavern we could see distinctly the lake, 
and after resting awhile and imagining how we could frighten 
anyone who chanced to pass, by growling, we emerged into 
the moonlight. We caused Monsieur "great trials" by getting 
into the boats that were fastened on either side of a little quay, 
upon which were placed some inviting seats. We took the time 
when he was engaged in lighting his cigar to run, each for a 

[203] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

separate boat, and between the two, he was quite at a loss what 
to do, and in his bewilderment we were both successful in 
accomplishing our object. We plashed the oars and rocked. 
The ducks sailed up to see what was the matter, and presently 
a boat from the opposite shore started out towards us, which 
led us to take a hasty leave. Went to a cafe and sat at one of 
the little tables placed out on the grass in the moonlight, while 
the gargon in attendance brought on the beer and cake which 
Monsieur ordered. It was nearly eleven o'clock when we 
started for home. Monsieur sang for our edification several 
airs, — "Les Etoiles qui filent," *'Le Petit Oiseau" and the 
"Marseillaise. ' ' We were almost sorry when we arrived home. 

Sunday, May 3 

Lovely daj^ Very warm. Attended service at the French 
chapel and heard an eloquent sermon by Dr. Bercier from Luke 
12:37. "Heureux ces serviteurs qui le Maitre trouvera veil- 
lants quand il arrivera." 

The fountains play to-day at Versailles. Monsieur offered 
to accompany us there, and thinks we are quite mistaken in 
considering it wrong to go to-day, as they never play except- 
ing on Sundays or some great fete day, and it is a sight well 
worth seeing. They cost the government 50,000 francs every 
time they play. Robert listened to the arguments used to 
induce us to go, with an expression on his countenance as if 
he feared we might be overcome by them. Did not go out in 
the afternoon. They have a new minister at the Rue de Berri, 
Dr. Robinson, successor to Dr. Eldridge, who has resigned. 
He is a dear friend of Samu's and an acquaintance of Mr. 
Lampman's. Monsieur found his copy of "Les Etoiles qui 
filent" last night in his library, where he has searched before 
unsuccessfully, and copied it into my extract-book. After 

[204] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

dinner went with him to the church St. Ferdinand but found 
it closed. Many people were waiting to enter, but for some 
reason there was not the usual service. Returned home after 
a short walk. 

Monday, May 4 

The birds are singing and chirping in the court, as happy 
as the day is bright. Our little "voisin" sits industriously 
studying at his window opposite, dressed, as usual, in his blue 
frock and belt. He paints, draws, and studies a big dictionary. 
Madame says his sister gives him his lessons. Very warm to- 
day. After dinner stood by the dining-room window and 
watched the ''chauve-souris'' that were fl^ang about the court. 
Mrs. Dodd, Ellie, and Robert went for a v/alk down the 
Champs Ely sees, but I had a lame foot and did not accom- 
pany them. Yf ent with Madame Chevalier to her room, and 
as we sat by the v/indow making ourselves comfortable. Mon- 
sieur came in to ask us to go to walk, as it was a beautiful 
day, too beautiful to stay in the house. I pleaded my lame 
foot, but Monsieur said it would cure it to walk a little. 
Madame advised me to put on my slippers, as slippers are 
very fashionable for an evening promenade, and she thought 
my foot would be well enough to take a short walk. ' ' Yes, yes, 
Mademoiselle, quick! and put on your hat." I obeyed accord- 
ingly, notwithstanding my foot, and soon found myself in the 
midst of the gaiety and brilliance of the Champs Ely sees. We 
looked for Mrs. Dodd and the rest, but did not see them and 
were spared their reproaches. 

Tuesday, May 5 

Started in our ''yaller silk gown and red 'rocco shoes," 
that is to say, in full dress, to attend a private fair at the 

[205] 



MY LIFE m PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

hotel of the Princess de Wittgenstein. This fair was intended 
as a pleasant social reunion of those concerned, though its 
primary and ostensible object was for the benefit of some 
charitable institution. Madame Chevalier, who was invited 
by a young friend of hers whom she calls ' ' Marie, ' ' a Countess 
of one of the most noble Polish families, kindly asked us to 
accompany her. We proceeded first to the hatter's to assist 
Monsieur in the selection of a new ''extinguisher," which he 
immediately donned, and we all started for the Petit St. 
Thomas where Madame and Robert provided themselves each 
with a new pair of gloves, into which they plunged at once, 
giving themselves an extremely improved appearance. 

Arrived at the house of the Princess in question, we trav- 
ersed a paved court-yard and entered a large hall decorated 
with pages and footmen in livery, who were awaiting the 
return of the proprietors of the various elegant equipages 
standing outside. 

At the door of the ante-room stood a stout, pompous por- 
ter in all the glory of powder and livery, who duly announced 
the arrivals. As the occasion proved to be more grand than 
frock-coats and felt hats would warrant. Monsieur Chevalier, 
who rejoiced in the one, and Master ''Bobe," who was over- 
shadowed by the other, decided to deprive the Princess of 
their presence, notwithstanding their new purchases, and walk 
about somewhere during our absence. 

Madame encountered at the door two of her friends, the 
Duchess Touwlkoska and her daughter, the Princess Touwl- 
koska, who were just taking their leave. They paused a mo- 
ment for a pleasant greeting and to give a short description 
of what was within. With a ''Bon jour, Madame," to the 
daughter, Madame Chevalier led the way to the interior salon. 

The room appeared rather small, but was arranged in the 

[206] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

perfection of taste. Several tables of different sizes, covered 
with a great variety of pretty and graceful et ceteras and pre- 
sided over by titled dames, were placed along the sides and in 
the center of the room. A profusion of flowers in vases and 
pots added fragrance and beauty to the scene. An open door 
revealed a grassy lawn upon which were refreshment-tables, 
where were groups chatting gaily. The graveled walks led 
to old trees and dense shrubbery, almost like a miniature wild 
forest. At one table in the salon, the Countess Lorskorenska, 
the aunt of Monsieur Leon, and the most graceful and aristo- 
cratic appearing of all the dames present, presided, in a long 
trailing robe of black silk, a velvet mantle and a black bonnet 
with purple flowers. She is yet in mourning for her mother, 
who died about six months ago. The Duchesse de Germany, 
a haughty-looking matron, and her two daughters, one the 
young Countess de Germany, whose wedding we attended some 
time ago, and the other a sweet-looking young lady of about 
seventeen years, were present. Prince Leon Mniszech and his 
friend Marcel, Count de Germany, were among the young 
gentlemen there. 

' ' Combien, Mademoiselle ? ' ' asked the latter of a beautiful 
3^oung American in a pink dress with pink trimmings, who sat 
beside her table of Mjouterie, as he held up a cigar-case. 

' ' Cinquante francs. Monsieur. ' ' 

"And this?" as he replaced it and took up an exquisite 
paper-cutter. 

''Cinquante francs aussi, Monsieur." 

"And this?" 

' ' Cinquante francs. Monsieur. ' ' 

"Tour jours cinquante francs?" said the young Count in- 
quiringly, as he opened his purse and placed the shining gold 
in her hand, taking again the attractive cigar-case. 

[207] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

''Oui, Monsieur," responded the damsel with a bewitch- 
ing smile. ' ' I have nothing on my table of less value. ' ' 

After looking about as much as we wished and taking a 
walk around the lovely garden in company with Madame 
Chevalier and the two young countesses, Marie and the 
Countess de Germany, we took our leave, having been, as 
Madame Chevalier assured us, in the best Parisian society. 
We were presently joined by Monsieur Chevalier and Robert, 
and we all proceeded up the Champs Elysees, entered a cafe, 
and ordered ice-creams and water-ices, which were refresh- 
ingly cool after our hot promenade. Master ^^Bobe," in whose 
hands all inanimate things seemed to be possessed with an un- 
controllable spirit of animation, again received a new proof 
of their total depravity, as a china saucer which held his glass 
of ice sprang from his hand and spread itself in a most 
unsociable state of want of affinity before his astonished and 
downcast eyes. He groaned in spirit as the vision of new 
postage stamps to add to his cherished album vanished, and 
realized that his pocket allowance for the week would be in- 
vested in crockery ware. Poor Bob ! always so unfortunate ! 

Dr. and Mrs. Dodd leave Paris in the morning. Mr. 
Lamp man, who enjoys his morning nap, made his adieus this 
evening. Dr. Dodd made the remark that although he was 
glad to go, he hated to leave. 

"Ah!" said Mr. Lampman with a sigh, ''it is for us 
who are left behind, who see one after another taken from 
our pleasant circle, to mourn at the breaking up of the asso- 
ciations of a winter together. I don't know but we shall be 
reduced to the extremity of throwing ourselves into each 
other's arms. Mademoiselle!" I told him I trusted not I 

[208] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Wednesday, May 6 

Rose early to see Dr. and Mrs. Dodd off. They took coffee 
in their salon where were assembled all the family except Mr. 
Lampman. They go first to the Isle of Wight, then to Lon- 
don, make a hasty tour through the British Isles, and sail for 
America the sixth of June. I shall miss Mrs. Dodd; she is 
gentle and lovely, and I really feel very much attached to her, 
considering our short acquaintance. I wonder if I shall ever 
see her again. 

Just before dejeuner entered the room which is to be occu- 
pied by Samu and Louey, where I found Madame and Anna 
standing over a miscellaneous collection of et ceteras of which 
Anna had suddenly become proprietress by the recent will of 
Mrs. Dodd. 

Samu, Louey and Mr. Holden arrived from London at 
about half-past six, and Madame waited dinner until that time. 
They had had a rough passage and were very tired. It was 
refreshing to look once more on their faces after so long a 
separation. 

Thursday, May 7 

Started directly after cafe for Levitsky's, where Samu, 
Louey, and Mr. Holden sat for their pictures. The gentlemen 
with Ellie for interpreter started first, leaving Louey and me 
to come when we were ready, which was in the course of an 
hour. 

We took an open carriage and enjoyed the sensation of 
being in Paris together. Went to the boot-maker's where Mr. 
Holden kept us laughing at his droll speeches while he was 
getting fitted to a pair of boots. Samu was impervious to 
being impressed with the superior qualities of patent leather. 

[209] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Mr. Holden was so proud of his new boots that he immediately 
donned them, and we next proceeded to ' ' Charley 's ' ' where we 
breakfasted on beefsteak and buckwheat cakes, and then took 
an open carriage and rode to the Bois. Stopped in a shady 
place near a cafe where we found seats at a little table and 
rested ourselves. A white-aproned gargon soon made his ap- 
pearance to ask what refreshments we would have, and after 
a short disappearance, returned with a waiter full of ice- 
creams, cakes, et cetera. We enjoyed sitting in such a de- 
lightful place, quite secluded ourselves, but where we could 
see all the gay promenaders in carriages and on foot. 

While our carriage waited, we strolled along the borders 
of the lake, fed the swans and ducks with sugar, visited the 
cascade under which we stood and tried to imagine ourselves 
at Niagara Falls. The Bois was filled with people returning 
from the races, which they had witnessed at Longchamps. The 
Avenue de 1 'Imperatrice had four lines of carriages on their 
Avay to and from the Bois de Boulogne. Met a gay carriage 
and was surprised at receiving a graceful nod of recognition 
from one of the occupants, who proved at a second glance to be 
Prince Leon and his friend, the Count Marcel de Germany, 
with others whom I did not know. Rode down the ''Scamps 
Elizas," as Louey designates the Champs Ely sees, hoping to 
see the Emperor's carriage, but were disappointed in this. 

Friday, May 8 

Louey and I remained in the house until evening when 
we started with the others for the ' ' Concert Musard. ' ' These 
concerts are held in the open air, and the music is entirely 
instrumental and of a high order. The scene was purely 
French, brilliant, graceful, charming. 

Over the entrance to the enclosure, the lights were ar- 

[2,10] 




The Hotel de Ville 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ranged in the form of a harp. The orchestra was on a circular 
platform in the midst of the grounds, all around which and 
high up were festooned globes of light. The grounds were 
illuminated, making it as bright as day. Portable seats were 
placed all about the platform for the benefit of those who 
preferred sitting to promenading. This is a pleasant and con- 
venable resort, where one may see elegantly dressed ladies and 
the latest Parisian fashions. Mr. Holden, finding a vacant 
chair in front of him, took the opportunity of occupying it 
with his new, square-toed boots, of which he is immensely 
proud. This act rather shocked Madame 's ideas of conven- 
tionality, to say nothing of Monsieur's ideas of French eti- 
quette. We remained until the orchestra had played Weber's 
''Overture to Der Freischiitz, " which was the last piece but 
one on the program, when we left for home. 

Saturday, May 9 

Went to the Louvre, Robert officiating as escort. Visited 
there for the first time the new gallery of sculpture, which had 
been recently opened. Saw the celebrated ''Venus de Milo" 
which was rescued from th ruins of Milos in 1820. It is minus 
both arms, but what remains is the perfection of sculpture. 
The face is so full of expression that it seems almost living 
in its fascinating beauty. 

From the Louvre we took carriages and visited ^'Les 
Buttes Chaumont/' a sort of public park on the other side of 
Paris, after the style of Central Park in New York. It is not 
finished, but is already a charming place with its hills, valleys, 
lakes, cascades, and caves. We left the carriages and walked 
over the suspension bridge and down a steep hill which led 
to a lake where swans and ducks were sailing. Entered a sort 
of grotto, down which tumbled a waterfall, the source of which 

[211] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

we were somewhat troubled to find, but finally discovered it 
high above. 

On the return home Mr. Holden gave me a description of 
his house, its location and style of architecture. It must be 
very handsome. Mr. Holden wishes us all to go with him to 
Switzerland next week. We passed a flower-shop at which 
Samu stopped and returned with his hands full of lilies of 
the valley. On arriving home, I arranged three bunches sev- 
erally for Madame Chevalier, Mr. Lampman, and Robert. 
Madame was out, but Monsieur took charge of them. When 
I went up a short time after to continue my reading in 
''Jccelyn," he had them all arranged with much taste in a 
little vase awaiting Madame 's approval. 

Sunday, May 10 

Attended service at the Rue de Berri in the morning and 
heard an interesting sermon from the new minister, Dr. Rob- 
inson. Remained at home in the afternoon. After cafe Louey 
and I lay down on the bed to rest and talk, and it seemed so 
nice and pleasant, quite like old times. She told me about 
Rev. Newman Hall's lecture on America and his first sermon 
after his return home. Attended service in the evening on 
the Rue Royale and listened to the Rev. Mr. Hart, whose dis- 
course seemed to have a somniferous effect upon some of his 
congregation. Deacon Lockie led the singing in his usual 
spirited manner, sacrificing the words to the tune in the most 
outrageous fashion, and delivered his accustomed speech at 
the close of the service, to the effect that the chapel is sup- 
ported by voluntary contributions, and for this purpose per- 
sons are stationed at the door with plates, a fact which he 
hoped would be heeded by all. We found our cocker still in 
attendance, as he had refused to accept what was offered him 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

for the '^ course," having attempted to follow us into the 
church, but Samu concluded to pay him by the hour, and the 
affair terminated peaceably. 

Monday, May 11 

Started in good season with Samu and Louey to accom- 
pany Mr. Holden and Ellie to the station, who were to leave 
for Tours, where Mr. Holden 's cousin. Miss Ida Holden, a 
young lady very near Ellie 's age, is being educated at a eon- 
vent. Our carriage was delayed in front of the Hotel des 
Invalides, where there seemed to be a review of soldiers, until 
we were too late for the train, much to the disappointment of 
Mr. Holden, which he bore w^ith praiseworthy good nature. 

Went to the Petit St. Thomas to look at silks and satins, 
but left our investigations to be continued after dejeuner. We 
returned after a lunch, having donned our waterproofs, and 
spent the afternoon in shopping. It is decided that we go to 
Switzerland, and in anticipation of that event, I bought myself 
a new traveling costume ready-made, which needed only a 
slight alteration to fit me. Mr, Holden purchased a beautiful 
velvet paletot for Mrs. Holden, v/hich was fitted to me, as I 
am about her size. The girl who exhibited these garments was 
so charming that w^e were all quite fascinated with her. 

The proprietors of the various large establishments here, 
as well as in London, furnish for the girls they hire elegant 
silk dresses, which they are allov/ed to wear only while en- 
gaged in the shops, putting them on v^^hen they come in the 
morning and taking them off when they leave at night. 

Started again to accompany Mr. Holden and Ellie to the 
station, but the fates seem to be against their prospective 
journey. This time the coachman was stupid, and although 
he had received definite directions, he drove to the wrong sta- 

[213] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tion, and when we arrived at the right one at last the train 
had been gone fifteen minutes. We dismissed the stupid fellow 
and took another, an Italian, in spite of the warning that was 
given us ''free gratis'' and unsolicited by one of the same 
trade, who offered us the use of his own horse and carriage. 

Breakfasted at a restaurant. The potatoes giving out, 
we ordered baked beans, which we found very nice, that is, 
Louey and I did, as none of the rest patronized them. Louey 
flavored hers with cognac, thinking it was vinegar, to the 
astonishment of the waiter, who doubtless thought Americans 
had peculiar tastes. 

Went to the Bon Marche and again to the Petit St. 
Thomas where we purchased three satin dresses and one silk, 
the latter for Louey in anticipation of Georgie Warner's wed- 
ding. Started for home in good season, but found so many 
attractions on the way that we arrived only in time for dinner. 
Called and engaged the services of a dressmaker. As Samu 
and Louey were marching on in front, Mr. Holden, Bllie and 
I entered a candy-shop and ordered some chocolate-drops, in- 
tending to be so expeditious as not to be missed; but the 
woman who waited on us was so deliberate in her movements 
that when we emerged into the street again, there was no 
vestige of them to be seen. We consoled ourselves to the best 
of our ability with the chocolate-drops, when to our delight, 
we spied them turning a corner engaged in looking us up. 

Next we proceeded to the Palais Royale, and while Samu 
and Ellie went into the grounds to listen to the music, the rest 
of us preferred to walk slowly along the sidewalk looking in 
at the various windows, where were displayed curious and 
wonderful things. On going by a window filled with a pro- 
fusion of fans, I remarked in passing, upon seeing one with 
an ''N" painted on it, ''I think that is mine, as I see my 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

initial." ''Is it?" said Mr. Holden; ''well, I will go right in 
and ask for it," which he forthwith did to my consternation, 
and returned with it in his hand ! 

Wednesday, May 13 

Mr. Holden and Ellie are finally off. Louey and I stayed 
at home to receive visits from the "Petit St. Thomas," who 
returned our recent calls. In the evening Samu, Louey and 
I, accompanied by Monsieur and Madame Chevalier, went to 
see the display on the occasion of the marriage of the Prince 
Murat to a Mongolian Princess. The ceremony had been per- 
formed in the morning at the Chapelle of the Tuileries in the 
presence of their Majesties, the Emperor and the Empress, 
but there was another ceremony more public in the evening 
in the Russian Church. We were on the spot in good season, 
and from an elevation within a stable opposite the church, 
which the proprietor kindly allowed us to share with him, we 
had a very good view of the various equipages as they drove 
into the enclosure and deposited the guests upon the steps to 
the entrance. 

The enclosure was brilliantly illuminated, much to the 
fright of the horses that pranced and reared as they ap- 
proached. The street was plentifully besprinkled with ser- 
geants de ville, who kept everything in order, that is to say, 
were there in case their services were needed, for the pre- 
vailing sentiment in a French crowd seems to be a decorous 
observance of the rules of propriety. There was a fine display 
of spirit in the beautiful horses, as well as of bravery and cour- 
age on the part of their drivers. Usually when a span of horses 
began to plunge and rear before the lights, the reins were 
grasped by two sergeants de ville who stood on either side of 
the gate; but often the drivers would not allow their steeds 

[215] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to be touched, but would spring from their boxes in a twinkling 
and calm the frightened pets, conducting them safely through. 
During about an hour there was a continual stream of car- 
riages entering at one gate and going out at another, until we 
wondered where in that small church there was room for so 
many people. The last arrivals remained upon the steps where 
they were conspicuous in their elegant robes. The equipage of 
the Prince Murat was magnificent as it drove up, the steeds 
prancing, and the liveries of gold lace sparkling in the lights. 
The footmen evidently felt themselves the heroes of the eve- 
ning, as they strutted about the enclosure before the admiring 
eyes of their brethren of the profession less high in rank. 

The gilded spires and dome of the beautiful church flashed 
in the light, and from the open door one could see a fluttering 
of robes, a glimmering of lights, all hazy and indistinct, ren- 
dering the whole scene exceedingly brilliant and dreamy. 
We did not remain to v/itness the exeunt, but descended from 
our lofty height where we began to feel somewhat cramped 
and started towards the Pare de Monceau. The streets were 
lined with carriages in waiting as far as the eye could reach. 
Found the Pare closed on arriving, as it was past eleven, so 
instead of the intended walk, took the shortest way home. 

Thursday, May 14 

Remained at home and made preparations to go to Switz- 
erland, provided that Mr. Holden returned from Tours in 
season at five P. M., which he did not. 

Friday, May 15 

Mr. Holden and Ellie returned last evening before dtner. 
It has been decided to delay our journey to Switzerland until 

[216] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the first of next month; so I had all my preparations to un- 
make. 

Went to-day to the Hotel de Cluny. It was a more com- 
fortable visit than the one of last winter, which I have already 
described. The grounds which were then frost-nipped and 
covered with a sprinkling of snow, to-day were beautiful, and 
we spent some time in walking about in them. The Palais des 
Thermes, which is connected with this Hotel, is an old Roman 
palace and was constructed by Julian the Apostate or his 
grandson, Constantinus Chlorus towards the end of the sixth 
century. The ruins are very picturesque. Among them are 
tHe rooms for hot and cold baths. The bathing-water was con- 
veyed by means of an aqueduct, and at present, under the 
ruins of this palace still exist subterranean passages and drains 
which were built to convey the water used for the bath, to the 
Seine. From here we went to the Conciergerie, the place where 
Marie Antoinette was imprisoned during the last days of her 
life. Our guide conducted us along the gloomy passages to the 
very cell. It is not more than eight feet square, and the single 
window high up commands a view of the prison yard. The 
furniture consists of one chair and a little table upon which 
stands the crucifix before which she said her prayers. This 
cell was separated from another of the same size where the 
guards were stationed, only by a curtain. Upon the wall is 
a large oil-painting of this very cell and its appurtenances, 
which represents Marie Antoinette taking leave of her two 
children and Madame Elizabeth. Another painting shows her 
receiving the sacrament just before her execution. Adjoining 
the cell in which she was imprisoned is the cell of Robespierre. 

We next went to the Tomb of the Emperor. Though it 
was not one of the regular days for admitting visitors, we 
obtained an entrance on applying at the Hotel des Invalides, 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

as this was Mr. Holden's only chance of seeing it. As we 
walked down one of the long corridors, we encountered the 
drummer who perambulated all around, vigorously beating his 
instrument, probably to summon the Invalides to dinner. I 
was convinced at this time that I could be very easily drummed 
to death, the sensation was so painful to my heart. Louey 
seated herself upon one of the steps of the corridor extending 
around the inner court, while Samu and Ellie dodged in and 
out of the various doors and recesses, searching for some per- 
son of authority who could give us the desired admission, 
Mr. Holden and I meanwhile carrying on a short flirta- 
tion or rather the breeze carried on a flirtation with our 
drapery as we promenaded to and fro, although I will 
briefly add that Mr. Holden's coat-tail was stoically im- 
pervious to the slightest fluctuation. After some time Samu 
and Ellie appeared triumphantly, escorted by a polite Captain 
who had recently come into authority, so recently indeed, that 
he had not himself, as yet, seen the tomb of the Emperor, and 
with true French politeness gave us to understand that he 
considered it a highly fortunate circumstance that we had 
given him an opportunity not only to show it to us but to see 
it for himself. I learned to-day what I did not know before, 
that the sarcophagus is not a cenotaph, but contains the body 
of Napoleon. We admired again the beautiful appearance of 
the colored lights falling upon the bronze altar, giving it the 
effect of gold. Mr. Holden called my attention to the sym- 
pathy in style of the Captain's pantaloons and Ellie 's dress 
as they walked along in front of us. 

Our next visit was to the Panorama of the Battle of 
Solferino. The building, which was constructed especially for 
panoramas, is situated in the Rond Point of the Champs 
Elysees. It is circular, and upon entering it, we found our- 

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m 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

selves upon the summit of Mount Alto, overlooking the town 
of Solferino and the surrounding country. All around us were 
the appurtenances of battle, soldiers on the march, in ambush, 
in action. On one side was the terrific explosion of a mine, 
in the near vicinity of which was Napoleon III. on horseback 
at the head of his troops. The portraits were all true to life, 
and it was impossible not to feel that you were looking upon 
a real scene and not a picture. The perspective stretched away 
for miles and miles, and it is not an exaggeration to say that 
it was not necessary to draw upon your imagination to make 
it a reality. This Mount Alto upon which we were standing 
was constructed of real soil, and upon it were real fragments 
of disabled cannon, broken artillery-wagons, and exploded 
bomb-shells, but I should have equally mistaken them for a 
part of the painting, or the painting beyond them for the 
reality ! 

Took a carriage and rode up the Champs Elysees, stop- 
ping at the Arc de Triomphe to make arrangements with the 
guard about going up on the top in the evening. While we 
were waiting for Samu, Mr. Holden proposed to go up in the 
balloon with me, an offer which I accepted at once, not sup- 
posing he was in earnest. He immediately jumped out of the 
carriage and began to lighten himself of certain articles of 
ballast in the shape of an opera-glass, books, and so forth. 
But I decided not to go. This balloon is a monstrous vehicle 
and is all day long going up and down for the benefit of those 
who wish to get a bird's-eye view of Paris. 

Samu at last joined us with the intelligence that we 
could go up to the top of the Arc in the evening by paying ten 
francs and we could take as many up with us as we pleased. 
From this place Samu walked home, leaving the rest of us to 
take a ride in the Bois before dinner. 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

In the evening a party composed of Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier, Mr. Lampman and two young lady friends of his, 
the Prince Leon Mniszech, Robert, Ellie, Mr. Holden, Samu, 
myself and Anna, who, Madame said, would enjoy it, started 
at about nine o'clock for our triumphal march. Louey was 
too weary with the excitements of the day, especially with 
the Battle of Solferino, to think of accompanying us, and we 
left her soundly sleeping. The view from the top was unique. 
Long avenues of lights radiated from the Arc as far as the 
eye could reach. The Avenue de la Grande Armee had itself 
six rows of lights, and the fluctuating lights of the moving 
carriages added to the brilliance of the scene. It was a mag- 
nificent sight, one long to be remembered. We seemed to be 
suspended between two firmaments of stars competing with 
each other in brilliancy. 

Saturday, May 16 

Spent the day at Versailles going by the American horse- 
cars, which we found rather a disagreeable means of con- 
veyance, owing to the transportation of fish- and market- 
women who seemed to patronize them extensively. The 
country through which we passed was not beautiful enough 
to compensate, and we rejoiced when we arrived at the end 
of our journey. 

Enjoyed the tour over the palace and understood better 
from our previous visits how to see. 

In the Salle of the Crusaders are two especially beautiful 
paintings : one, the Crossing of the Bosphorus, and the other 
a portrait of Peter the Hermit. In another place is the Coron- 
ation of Charles VIL at Rheims, 19th of July, 1429, by 
Vinchon. Joan of Arc, who had predicted this ceremony, 
stands by the side of the King, her banner in her hand. Her 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

father and brother, who had come from Bomremy, are among 
the spectators. The charm of the picture is the face of the 
young shepherdess, which wears an expression of absorbed 
inspiration. The Battle of Hohenlinden brought to memory 
the old poem of our school-days, 

' ' On Linden, when the sun was low. 
All bloodless lay the untrodden snow ; 
And dark as the winter was the flow 
Of Iser rolling rapidly ! ' ' 

' ' St. Louis, Louis IX. of France, administering Justice under 
the Oak of Vincennes" represents this good King reposing, 
as he loved to do, under the shade of an oak. Here he allowed 
his subjects to approach and lay their complaints before him. 
Another painting represents him as the mediator between the 
King of England, Henry III. and his barons in 1264. An- 
other by the same artist, Rouget, represents him attacked by 
the plague and dying before Tunis, surrounded by his family, 
Aug. 25, 1270. 

The grounds about the palace are in all their beauty. In 
our stroll we came across an old woman who had her fruit- 
stand in a delightfully shady and inviting place ; we purchased 
of her some oranges and a substitute for lemonade. Later in 
the day, with Samu and Louey, we ate our lunch in a still 
more delightful place. Started for the station a little after 
five to be home in season for dinner, but being attacked by 
an officious guide who offered to conduct us to the best res- 
taurant in Versailles, we were not proof against his wiles and 
the pangs of hunger, and consequently, not long after, found 
ourselves seated in the second story of a tidy little cafe in a 
room devoted to eating purposes, where were various tables 

[221] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

covered with clean white linen. A pretty French maid at- 
tended to our orders, and we were presently luxuriating upon 
a ''diet of worms," beefsteak and potatoes. 

During our repast the rain fell in torrents, but ceased 
before we were ready to start. We arrived in Paris soon after 
seven o'clock, when we drove to the Rue de Rivoli to select 
some photographs and stereoscopic views. The proprietor of 
the establishment very kindly offered to send a quantity to the 
house, where we could select more advantageously. Our drive 
home was made entertaining by the conversation of Samu 
and Mr. Holden, who described in a most amusing manner 
some of the different aspects of Paris. Arrived home just 
before the pictures and spent the rest of the time until almost 
midnight in looking at views. Mr. Lampman and Robert came 
down, the latter having just waked up from a nap. He used 
this nap as an argument to influence Mr. Lampman to allow 
him to sit up an hour later than usual, but did not succeed 
in convincing that gentleman of its strength. 

Sunday, May 17 

After cafe, Louey, Samu, Monsieur Chevalier, Mr.- 
Holden, and EUie went to Fere la Chaise, but I was too tired 
to go. Read "Jocelyn" in the evening and finished it. 

Monday, May 18 

After dejeuner our party divided, Samu, Louey and 
Ellie going to Levitsky's and afterwards to the Bois de Yin- 
cennes, while Mr. Holden and I took an open carriage to St. 
Denis, where we visited the Cathedral. It was a delightful 
day, too hot for everybody except myself. The ride was ex- 
ceedingly agreeable, although the rough pavements and 
dusty road outside the city, were a poor exchange for the 

[222] 





3 to 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

cool, shady, well-watered streets of this lovely Paris. We 
enjoyed the pleasant green fields when we were not so 
enveloped in dust as to cut off the view. The houses along 
the way, Mr. Holden says, are very much like the structures 
to be seen in Lower Canada, or as it is now called, the 
"Province of Quebec," and the inhabitants of that country 
retain many of the old French customs. They have a curious 
fashion of dressing their babies here. They roll them up 
tightly with the exception of their heads and arms which 
remain sticking out, giving them an odd appearance not un- 
like the old-fashioned bed-wrench ! They carry them under 
their arms with their heads or heels in front, just as it 
happens ! 

I was much more impressed with the beauty and gran- 
deur of the Cathedral than in my first visit. It has been 
undergoing repairs for some time, and during the last few 
months they have made much advancement. There is a 
picture at Versailles in one of the ''Salles of the Crusaders" 
of Philip Augustus taking the oriflamme at St. Denis, June 
24, 1196, where a part of this Cathedral near the altar is 
represented, but it is impossible, beautiful as it is, to gain 
from it any idea of the gorgeous effect of the richly stained 
glass and the graceful arches. Our former guide was 
afflicted with a set of clattering teeth, and this one had a nose 
so brilliant that he might have headed a torchlight procession 
with no other luminary. 

The picture-gallery was this time free from smoke, 
much to our satisfaction. Mr. Holden said he should have 
been very sorry to leave Paris without seeing this interesting 
place, but added that he supposed he should not have known 
how much he would have lost. 

We drove home by a different route and entered the Bois 

[223] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

de Boulogne. As Mr. Holden said, he had done sightseeing 
enough for one day, we drove about here until dinner-time. 
He told me of Mrs. Holden, and his sisters, of his narrow 
escapes from fire and horses, and of various other interesting 
things. 

In the evening, Samu and Mr. Holden were busy in 
packing their traveling-bags in anticipation of an early de- 
parture in the morning. 

Received this evening a circular announcing the death 
of Prince Leon's grandmother. When her son left her, her 
health, which had seemed so much improved failed, and the 
Count Mniszech had scarcely arrived in Paris when he re- 
ceived a telegram containing the news of her death. He 
was about purchasing for her, at her request, a summer resi- 
dence at Fontainebleau. 

Tuesday, May 19 

Samu and Mr. Holden left Paris this morning. After 
the adieus had all been said, and while the rest of us were 
taking cafe at a somewhat earlier hour than usual, owing to 
our early rising, we conceived the project of taking a car- 
riage and surprising them with another view of us at the 
station, particularly as we had not been invited to accom- 
pany them, and, what was more, Samu had had the pre- 
sumption to say that they should have invited us had they 
wanted us ! Monsieur Chevalier, who entered into the spirit 
of our grievances, offered to accompany us ; so, with a little 
dispatch, we soon found ourselves "en route" in the gayest 
of moods. We arrived at our destination about ^yq minutes 
before the train started. The guard at first demurred about 
allowing any of us to pass the gates, finally giving the per- 
mission for two to pass. In a moment we decided upon 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monsieur and Ellie, Louey and I waiting outside. They soon 
reappeared followed by our two travelers, who had only 
time to bestow upon us an unutterable look of surprise when 
the warning-bell sounded, and they beat a hasty retreat, 
much to the amusement of the guard, who had been quietly 
watching the proceedings. Our revenge being accomplished, 
we started with light hearts for the Rue de Rivoli, where we 
paid a little bill, notwithstanding it was rather earlier than 
the shop-people were accustomed to receive callers. 

The shop was undergoing a sweeping and dusting opera- 
tion, and most of the goods were under cover. 

We dismissed our carriage and crossed over to the Gar- 
den of the Tuileries for a walk. It was perfectly lovely, the 
morning air was so clear and warm. The garden is a forest 
of trees, and the avenues are adorned with statues. We 
came out on the Place de la Concorde, where we took another 
carriage and drove to the Bois de Boulogne. 

Wednesday, May 20 

Very warm. Remained in doors and wrote letters. Mr. 
Lampman has had his hair cut, which rather impairs his 
beauty. 

This afternoon there was an alarm of fire, a very rare 
occurrence in Paris. We all went out to see it. After about 
half an hour there came a violent ring at the door. Upon 
opening it, we beheld Master ''Bobe," who exclaimed, ''I've 
escaped!" I asked him where the others were. ''I don't 
know, but I've escaped from those sergeants de ville.'' He 
was quite out of breath with his hasty progress, but came in, 
and taking off his hat, continued, with a long breath of 
satisfaction, "They allowed no idle spectators on the spot, 
but all were immediately impressed into the service of 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

passing pails of water." He had left Mr. Lampman, sur- 
rounded by sergeants de ville, so he supposed he was busy at 
work. As for himself he passed one pail, quite to the detri- 
ment of his new trousers ; here he paused to bestow a depre- 
cating glance at his leg, and when he had a good chance, he 
ran away. 

At dinner Mr. Lampman and Monsieur Chevalier had a 
good deal of sport at Robert's expense. Monsieur Chevalier, 
who having Ellie with him had not been impressed into the 
service, left her for a moment to expostulate with the ser- 
geants de ville in reference to Mr. Lampman and Robert, 
who, he informed them, were strangers in Paris and not 
familiar with the customs of the country, etc. The sergeant 
thought if they were not acquainted with the customs of the 
country, they knew enough to pass a pail of water when it was 
handed to them, and suggested to Monsieur that he would 
better assist in the business. That gentleman thought it was 
not discreet to argue the question, owing to the turn the con- 
versation had taken, and withdrew his bodily presence as 
unostentatiously as possible. He says it is the custom here in 
case of a fire to impress every one into the service ; even the 
Emperor himself would not be spared should he come along. 
The houses here are almost fireproof owing to the materials 
of which they are built. The one in question was a paint-shop. 

Madame cut her finger to-night with her new carving- 
knife. She hastened to press the dissected parts together, re- 
marking in English that she did not wish the blood to ' ' jump 
out." Mr. Lampman finished carving the meat for her, and 
considering that his hair was in such a brief state, displayed 
remarkable feats of strength. 

[226] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Thursday, May 21 

Have changed my room and room-mate and sleep with. 
Loiiey. Instead of the usual morning cry of ''Moiirons pour 
les petit s oiseaux/' 1 am awakened by the hideons screamings 
of a ''jay" in one of the neighboring windows, which sounds 
very much like the screamings of a cat when some one steps 
upon her tail. The sparrows are also very annoying, chirping 
from three o'clock in the morning until it is time to rise. 
The bells were ringing merrily as we sat at cafe, and Madame 
says it is Ascension Day. 

Went out to do some shopping, but found the shops 
closed. After dejeuner, wrote until three o'clock, when we 
went to ride in the Bois de Boulogne. Monsieur Chevalier 
having a holiday, accompanied us. The usual sights of elegant 
equipages, handsome toilettes and shady avenues were duly 
enjoyed. We stopped a few moments at the Pre Catelan, 
where the children were having a ball in the open air, and 
descended from the carriage to see them dance. A band of 
music stationed at a short distance was playing for them. 
The scene was gay and perfectly French ; the children might 
have been mistaken for fairies, had it been moonlight, as they 
skipped about light-footed and graceful in the mazy dance. 
A sergeant de ville was just ordering the carriages off as we 
returned to ours. There was quite a crowd of them and he 
shouted, ' ' Drive on ! drive on ! no stops here ! ' ' Returned 
home by the Ave de Tlmperatrice and rode a short distance 
down the '^Scamps Elizas." 

Went shopping with Louey at the Louvre, where I bought 
a white alpaca dress for Georgie Warner's wedding. She is 
to be married the thirteenth of June and goes to the Isle of 
Wight on a " bridle tower. ' ' Read in "La Belle Gabrielle ' ' in 

[227] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the evening with Monsieur. Do not have time to study nowa- 
days, but read aloud every evening for the purpose of acquir- 
ing a good pronunciation. 

Saturday, May 23 

Louey and I enjoyed a quiet day at home. Eead with 
Monsieur in the afternoon instead of the evening, as we were 
going to have company to dinner, General and Madame de 
Lavalette, cousins of Monsieur Chevalier. 

Sunday May 24 

Did not go to church but spent the day at home sneezing 
and going through the usual program accompanying a cold in 
the"ed." 

Monday, May 25 

After dejeuner Louey and I dressed to go to the banker's, 
Bowles and Brothers, 12 Rue de la Paix. Just as we were 
ready to start. Monsieur sent a message down that he should 
be at liberty that afternoon until six o'clock, at which hour 
he had an invitation to dine with his cousin, Gen. de Lavalette, 
and, if agreeable, he would go with us to select a French 
dictionary and a copy of "La Belle Gabrielle." Monsieur 
Chevalier is one of the most obliging and unselfish persons I 
ever knew, always ready to do a kind action for every one. 
We accordingly started, taking an open carriage for the 
' ' Scamps Elizas. ' ' The conveyance was attached to rather an 
architectural-looking steed that refused to quicken his pace, 
notwithstanding the very frequent applications of the whip 
by the driver, who showed a remarkable desire to heed Mon- 
sieur 's request that he would use as much dispatch as possible, 
as we were afraid of being too late for banking-hours. The 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

wliip seemed to make about as much impression upon this 
Pegasus as a feather would falling upon the hide of a rhi- 
noceros, for at each application he would only look more 
stoically meek and budge along at the same slow pace. As we 
were proceeding on the Rue de la Paix, down he tumbled, the 
poor beast, and rolled over upon his side just in front of a 
large druggist's establishment. Monsieur, who sat with his 
back turned to the driver facing Louey and me, was not aware 
that we were not progressing at the usual pace, and thought 
I was not in earnest when I announced that the horse had 
fallen down. After waiting for him to jump out, and finding 
him inclined to remain tranquil, I commenced descending in 
a deliberate and dignified manner to the sidewalk, while Louey, 
who could not see the spectacle from her side of the carriage, 
and did not at first comprehend the state of affairs, sprang 
out at the other side, just as Monsieur, beginning to realize 
that something unusual was going on, as the shopmen ran to 
their doors and the carriage gave a strange sort of lurch, 
started from his seat in a twinkling caught me from the 
carriage-step and sprang to the sidewalk, where he placed me 
and turned to meet Louey, who was coming towards him with 
open arms and a face full of concentrated emotions. The pro- 
prietor of the shop came out and invited us in; poor Louey 
sank into a chair and burst into tears, trembling with fright. 
He kindly and expeditiously poured out a glass of wine, which 
she did not take, and it was not long before we were on our 
way again, this time on the sure basis of our feet. We left 
our equipage surrounded by a crowd of curious people, who 
dropped from nobody knows where ; the architectural Pegasus 
was detached from the carriage and looked as full of life as 
ever. 

We were not successful in finding a copy of '^La Belle 

[229] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Gabrielle," but bought a French and English dictionary by 
Contanseau. 

"We passed through many streets, some of them narrow 
and odd-looking, that we had never seen before, entered a cafe 
and refreshed ourselves with ice-creams, after which, Monsiur 
put us into a cab and rode with us as far as the Place de la 
Concorde, where he left us, and we arrived home without fur- 
ther adventure. Madame waited dinner for us for more than 
half an hour, not knowing that we had entered and were won- 
dering why Anna did not call us. 

Mr. Lampman showed us some photographs he had been 
purchasing, most of them copies from paintings by the old 
masters at the Louvre : St. Michael standing upon the dragon 
is beautiful. He had copies of nearly all the celebrated 
Madonnas. There was one of ''Silence,'' which reminded me 
of home. 

Tuesday, May 26 

Very warm to-day. Had a heavy thunder shower during 
dejeuner. After dmer took a carriage-drive to the bookseller 's 
and purchased some letter-paper; from there to the dress- 
maker's, and, finally, made a call upon the Griswolds. It 
was dark before we arrived home, but we had greatly en- 
joyed our ride. Had green peas and strawberries for the 
first time this season for dinner. Read in "La Belle 
Gabrielle" until after eleven o'clock. 

Wednesday, May 27 

Spent the day alternately writing and ''sporting," all 
joining in the hunt. The spoils were many, but the "un- 
spoiled" were more! Louey is busy making the ruffles for 
her new silk dress. 

[230] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

The dinner-table chat was very interesting. Mr. 
Lampman expressed unreservedly his opinion of the French 
ladies whom he encounters in his daily walks on the Champs 
Elysees. He thinks them composed mainly of paint, powder, 
and moustaches ! Madame assures him they are not the real 
St. Germain aristocracy! Madame believes in French taste 
and things "convenable.'^ 

Our little dressmaker came this evening. She had dis- 
played much taste in the work she has already done for us. 
Heard Monsieur at his window, which is just above, singing 
"Les Etoiles qui filent." Read in ''La Belle Gabrielle," and 
on coming down to my room found Louey in bed. The 
evening was glorious, and it seemed such a pity to go bed! 
Stood at the window and admired the sky. The moon, which 
had hardly attained its first quarter, hung like a silver bow, 
tlie queen of the night, the man in it not being visible. 

Presently "Monsieur Bobe" appeared at his window 
one story higher, opposite, and announced that he had just 
returned from the Concert Musard. The sound of voices out- 
side brought Monsieur to his window to see what was going 
on, and he was so enchanted with the beauty of the night 
that he remained there until the moon went down. I sug- 
gested that he awaken Madame, and that we should all go for 
a walk, but he said that Paris would be lost if Madame 
should be awakened. Studied astronomy under his tuition, 
discussing the moon, the big and little bears and the Polar 
star. He suggested that I jump from my window to his. I 
suggested the vice versa. He said he was nearer the del than 
I was, and he would stretch out a hand to pull me up, — an 
allusion to a conversation we had last winter about the 
Champs Elysees vs the Infernos, — I told him the chimney- 
tops were nearer yet, at which he was much amused. Anna, in 

[231] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the meantime, sat in her little room industriously sewing on 
her new dress. Monsieur advised her to retire, as she must 
rise early in the morning. The moon having disappeared be- 
low the horizon, we bade each other a general ''bonne nuit" 
and separated. 

Thursday, May 28 

The hottest day yet. Our court is quite an aviary. 
From morning until night we hear the chirping of sparrows, 
the cooing of doves, the talking of cockatoos, the singing of 
canaries, the screaming of the jay, the whistling of a merle, 
to say nothing of hand-organs and categorical concerts. This 
afternoon while I was dressing for dinner in all the freedom 
of open doors, the bell rang. Thinking it was Ellie, who 
had just come down from taking her lesson, Louey went to 
the door to let her in, when Monsieur Leon, who had come to 
dine, thinking he was in the apartment above, deliberately 
walked in, much to Ellie 's astonishment. I heard her saying 
''Are you coming in here?" Monsieur Leon, who was no 
doubt surprised at the question, seemed to think he was. He 
advanced to the door of the room corresponding to the 
sleeping-chamber of Monsieur and Madame Chevalier in the 
apartment above ; this was in the most admired disorder, and 
quickly becoming aware of his mistake, he uttered an in- 
voluntary exclamation of consternation at his unfortunate 
distraction, and beat a hasty retreat. I took refuge behind 
an impromptu screen composed of an easy-chair with a 
dressing gown accidentally thrown over it, where I waited 
with anxiety the termination of this unexpected invasion. 

Read aloud in Mrs. Stowe's "Little Foxes" to Louey 
after dinner, and afterwards to Monsieur Chevalier in 
"L. B. G." and finished the first part of it. 

[232] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Friday, May 29 

Hot. Took a covered carriage with Ellie and Louey for 
the Petit St. Thomas to do some shopping. On our way we 
passed the Palais d 'Industrie in front of which are placed 
in large green boxes a row of orange trees covered with 
blossoms which filled the air with fragrance. 

Just before dinner, the sky grew dark, and there was a 
violent storm of wind which raised clouds of dust. The 
lightning flashed, the thunder roared, and after a time the 
rain fell in torrents, refreshing the air. We all went into 
Madame 's room where we sat for an hour or two enjoying 
the storm. 

Commenced cutting a portfolio for Madame. After de- 
jeuner blew soap-bubbles, in which recreation we were joined 
by Monsieur, who came down with his pipe, and soon after 
Robert, spying us from his window, came down in great 
haste to assist. Monsieur conceived the idea of blowing 
smoke into the bubbles, which was immediately carried out 
with great success, and it was curious to see them sailing 
about in the air for some time, burst and end in a puff of 
smoke. 

Saturday, May 30 

Received a call from Mrs. Gleason and Mrs. Griswold. 
They leave Paris very soon for Switzerland. Our little 
' ' couturiere ' ' came after dinner to try on our dresses. 

Sunday, May 31 

Attended service at the Rue de Berri and heard Dr. 
Robinson. The choir sang a hymn to the tune of "Autumn" 
which sounded sweet and homelike. About the middle of 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the service the sexton came in escorting Prince Leon to 
Mr. Lampman 's pew. After service Prince Leon took cafe 
with us in anticipation of Mr. Lampman 's and Robert's near 
departure. Received a letter from Samu, which decided 
that our trip to Switzerland will not be made this year, as 
Mr. Holden will not finish his tour of Scotland in time. Am 
rather glad than otherwise. 

Retired about nine o'clock. Monsieur Chevalier and 
Mr. Lampman were sitting in Robert's room smoking and 
talking. After a long nap, Vx^oke and heard them still 
talking, talking, and Robert too. It is their last siesta. 

Monday, June 1 M 

Mr. Lampman and Robert started for Switzerland this 
morning. Thus the last link of our pleasant winter family is 
broken. Next Friday, instead of there being nine at table, 
Monsieur and Madame will sit opposite at dinner alone. 
Monsieur Chevalier goes soon to Fontainebleau or to St. 
Germain with his "petit disciple" for the summer. 

After dinner went with Ellie and Louey to the Pare de 
Monceau for a w^alk. The evening w^as charming, and the 
park was filled with people. We walked along the avenues 
and over the little bridge, where we stopped to watch some 
ducks swimming in the water. While we were standing 
there, two little girls came along and climbed upon the wood- 
work of the bridge for a better view, one exclaiming, ' ' Voici le 
petit canard ! " . 

There is one feature in the public parks which has great i 
need of being improved, and that is the water. The lakes I 
all appear muddy and stagnant, and they are not at all 
ornamental to the scenery. 

The flow^ers and the foliage are in the perfection of 

[234] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

their beauty. Monday is a sort of playday for the workmen, 
who may be encountered in flocks in their white and blue 
blouses as you pass along the streets, in the parks, every- 
where. We arrived home just before nine, and I went up 
immediately to take my reading lesson. 

Tuesday, June 2 

Remained indoors. Louey sewed upon her ruffles, and 
I finished cutting the portfolio for Madame. In the after- 
noon, Monsieur came in on his usual ''pendule" expedition, 
with his accompanying bunch of keys. After winding up 
all the clocks, advancing one, retarding another, and setting 
them all in unison with his watch, and therefore by the 
Bourse, he sat down in our room, and we consulted about the 
best route to be taken on our projected picnic-expedition to 
St. Germain on the morrow. He then assisted me in writing 
a note to our little couturiere, and afterwards left to give 
Monsieur Leon his lesson. Read in the evening in La Belle 
Gabrielle, which Monsieur has given me, regretting that he 
will not have time to get it bound before we leave Paris. 

Wednesday, June 3 

Settled rainy weather, so that we had no hesitation in 
giving up our trip to St. Germain. Began our packing. In 
the afternoon, took a carriage to Bowles' Bros, and Co., 
bankers, to get a check cashed, after which did some shop- 
ping at the Louvre and the Petit St. Thomas. Were rather 
late to dinner, which we regretted, as Monsieur and Madame 
were going out to spend the evening. Lined and finished my 
portofolio for Madame. It is very pretty indeed. 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Thursday, June 4 

Spent most of the day in packing, "While we were at 
dejeuner, our dressmaker, milliner, and boot-maker were sev- 
erally announced. After breakfast continued packing opera- 
tions until about four o'clock, when they were in such a 
state of advancement that they could be completed in a few 
minutes. Went out to finish our shopping and say 
adieu to Paris, as we leave early in the morning. Made a 
laughable financial arrangement with Monsieur and Madame, 
during which Madame sewed and Monsieur smoked his 
pipe, while I sat on a little tabouret by the window. Madame 
wishes to make Monsieur a present of a set of shaving 
materials, and as steel articles are not of so good a quality in 
France as in England, she wishes me to ask my brother to 
buy the razors and send them to her. She intends it to be a 
surprise to Monsieur: so we made this arrangement in 
English, but I fancy our conversation was not entirely 
Greek to that gentleman, although he maintained a very 
neutral expression and asked no questions. 

Had dinner at seven o'clock, an hour later than usual, 
for convenience, and afterwards adjourned to the salon to 
enjoy our last "sociable" for some months to come. Gave 
the portfolio to Madame, and she seemed much pleased with 
it. In the evening a friend of Mr. Lampman called, whom 
Monsieur Chevalier mistook for his tailor, it being rather 
dusky in the antechamber. Did not read, but played a game 
of chess with Monsieur and beat him. He attempted to de- 
tract from the glory of my victory, by saying it had been so 
long since he had played that he had forgotten everything 
excepting "how to push the pieces," and I told him I had 
even forgotten the names of the pieces and did not know the 

[236] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

bishops from the knights! Went down about eleven o'clock 
and waited until nearly midnight for the dressmaker, who 
came at last with my dress all completed excepting a part of 
the trimming. 

Friday, June 5 

Rose at half-past four. Dull and rainy. Dressed in my 
'^ Swiss costume." Finished packing and left the concierge 
and the cocker, with Anna, to strap and lock our trunks and 
valise, while we went up to cafe, which was ready at half -past 
five. 

Monsieur accompanied us to the station where we ar- 
rived in good season. After purchasing our tickets, and 
getting the baggage registered, we chased about for some 
time in search of the "chief" to obtain permission for Mon- 
sieur to pass the gate and attend us to the wagon, but were 
unsuccessful and concluded to give it up. One of the guards 
allowed him to pass into the waiting-room with us and told 
him he might accompany us to the wagon, only if anyone 
should ask him any questions about it, to give no informa- 
tion, but say that he was a traveler. We concluded on the 
whole it was best for him not to attempt to pass, as only 
two or three minutes would be gained thereby. 

Just then the whistle sounded, and we took all our small 
baggages and a hasty leave of Monsieur and started for the 
wagon where we were well and agreeably arranged with all 
our effects in company with three gentlemen, one of whom, 
an elderly, amiable-looking personage, remarked in refer- 
ence to a wooden box which contained our Parisian bonnets 
and therefore to be 'Haken up tenderly and lifted with 
care," ''I would recommend you, Madame, to put that 
under the seat." We followed his recommendation, which 

[237] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

struck us as being wise in the extreme and concluded, after 
a coup d^oeil at his extensive proportions, that he was the 
famous ' ' Atlas, ' ' who, tired with carrying the world upon his 
shoulders, had placed it upon his legs! Another compagnon 
de voyage would have put Mrs, Hubbard in a passion directly 
with his strong English accent. He was dressed in a 
seedy-looking suit, with kid gloves, and had for baggage 
numberless canes of various rustic patterns and a continua- 
tion of his gray suit strapped up with a traveling-shawl. The 
third seemed to be a brainless personage, who remained in 
a state of happy oblivion in regard to his exceedingly uncom- 
fortable-looking posture in one corner of the wagon. 

At Amiens the train stopped for twenty minutes, a cir- 
cumstance of which we took advantage by providing our- 
selves with some refreshments in the shape of strawberries, 
oranges, cakes, etc. 

The weather brightened up for a few miles, but the sky 
was gray again when we arrived at Boulogne. 

We saw the towers of the Cathedral in the distance but 
had not time to visit it before the boat would leave. Were 
transported in an omnibus to the pier, where we embarked 
and seated ourselves on deck. We appeased the wrath of 
''Old Nep" by a voluntary offering of some rolls previously 
to their being eaten, and our passage which we feared might 
be somewhat uneven to say the least, was undisturbed by a 
ripple, and we watched the shores of LA BELLE FRANCE 
until they grew dim in the distance and completely faded 
from our vision. 

Saturday, November 14 

Left London this morning at half-past seven. It was 
market day, and unfortunately, the cabman took a street 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

so crowded with wagons it was with difficulty that we could 
progress, consequently we arrived at the station too late to 
have our baggage registered through to Paris. 

Narrowly escaped being put into a compartment with a 
crying baby. It lifted up its voice and wept just as we were 
about to enter; so we beat a hasty retreat, the guard kindly 
unlocking another compartment occupied by a gentleman 
and lady. Here we located ourselves comfortably till we 
arrived at Dover Pier, where we embarked for Calais. 

The Channel was rough, and we had been out but a few 
minutes when I had only strength to congratulate myself 
that I was not on the New Haven and Dieppe route. We 
seated ourselves on deck under the shelter of a lifeboat, 
exactly in the same place we occupied a little more than a year 
ago, — the same steamer, the same captain. One of the 
sailors wrapped us up carefully in oilskins and left us to our 
meditations, which became more and more solemn in pro- 
portion as the rolling and pitching of the boat increased, and 
the waves splashed over the vessel's side. It mizzled, rained, 
and finally poured in torrents, when I rose to descend to the 
cabin, suggesting to Ellie, who sat speechless beside me, that 
she follow my example ; but she preferred to remain where 
she was, and as my feelings were too deep for utterance, but 
rapidly becoming more shallow, I did not expostulate but 
staggered to the cabin door just opposite, stopped for a 
moment to steady myself before descending into the regions 
below, then made a rapid tour over the stairs, the speed in- 
creasing as I neared the bottom until the last four steps were 
taken in one flying leap, owing to an unlucky plunge of the 
boat, and I found myself suddenly seated at the bottom in the 
midst of numerous bowls and basins at the threshold of the 
cabin. 

[239] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

The groaning and pallid occupants extended upon the 
couches had other matters to attend to, and my sudden, un- 
ceremonious appearance was quite unnoticed. I passed the 
next half-hour with them in the most sympathetic manner! 
About fifteen minutes after my entree into the Infernals, 
I was joined by Ellie, who finally, driven by the rain, 
came down the stairs in utter disdain of the various 
steps, taking them all in one leap from top to bottom ! She 
was followed by the captain in scarcely less haste, though 
with less precipitation. He had caught her by the skirt of 
her dress, but had wisely concluded not to detain her. 
Fortunately she was not in the least hurt, the stairway and 
entry being narrow and her arms filled with a traveling-rug 
and other outer wrappings, which broke the fall. 

On leaving the boat, we were met by a "com- 
missionaire," Vv'-ho conducted us in a pouring rain to the 
railway station within viev/ of the pier, attended to our 
baggage, getting it checked to Paris, and finally escorted us 
to a wagon for ' ' dames seules, ' ' then after receiving a fee for 
his attentions, left us to go on our way rejoicing. 

The train started at half -past twelve, and we arrived in 
Paris at half-past six. We had for traveling-companions 
tv/o ''dames seules," one English, the other French, the 
latter having been one of the occupants of the Infernals, 
whom I had noticed particularly as seeming to enjoy her 
voyage much less than the others. 

Arrived in Paris, we were delayed at the station more 
than three-quarters of an hour before we could find our 
baggage, going here and there in vain search, aided at last 
by an official who addressed me as "Ma petite Madame." 
The delay was occasioned no doubt by our own fault, as 
v/hen it was announced that the baggage registered from 

[240] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

London was ' ' par ici, ' ' we followed in that direction, for- 
getting that ours was registered from Calais until we were 
reminded of the fact on presenting our billet. In the mean- 
time the baggage from Calais being distributed in another 
place and ours remaining unclaimed, it was probably put into 
the little baggage-room to be out of the way until called for. 
Here we found it. 

Took a carriage for Madame Ducrot's, No. 23 Avenue 
de rimperatrice, where we arrived a few minutes before 
eight o'clock. 

Yf e ascended four flights of stairs, and after pulling the 
bell, were ushered into a cheerful room where three young 
ladies and a young gentleman were at dinner, the last men- 
tioned having a green perruche on his shoulder. All rose as 
we entered and adjourned v/ith us to the salon, where a 
bright fire was burning in the grate. We sat and warmed 
ourselves for a few minutes, the others in the meantime mak- 
ing themselves agreeable. Madame Ducrot had retired with 
a slight indisposition, and Mademoiselle Ducrot, who in her 
absence did the honors, introduced to us two young ladies, 
one of whom, Francine, took the perruche on her finger and 
expanded on the subject of its accomplishments, saying it 
spoke French v/ithout an accent, that it did not speak 
English, but that she v/ould teach it to say, ''Vive I'Ameri- 
que!" for our benefit. 

The other young lady was introduced as "Mile. 
Chapoteau, ma cousine, " and the young gentleman as "Mon- 
sieur Chapoteau, mon cousin." 

We were shown to our room by Mile. Ducrot to arrange 
our toilet, a little before dinner. She said they would have 
waited longer for us, but they thought it too late and had 

[241] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

given up expecting ns. We were tired after our long 
journey and went to bed soon after dinner. 

Our chamber is small but prettily furnished, and hung 
with family portraits, some in oil and some in crayon. Over 
the door in a gilt frame upon a groundwork of black velvet 
is a crucifix in relief, the cross being of wood and the figure 
of ivory. On either side of the window hang respectively in 
large, gilt oval frames, portraits of Monsieur and Madame 
Ducrot, the former over the head of the bed. Beside it is a 
little ' ' benitier ' ' or holy- water basin formed of a shell, which is 
attached to an ebony-framed, white-plaster crucifix behind a 
convex glass; Over the sides of the bed are portraits of the 
brother of Madame and the mother of Monsieur Ducrot. Mile. 
Helene in oil smiles down from the opposite wall, with a 
crayon portrait of her sister Francine and her grandmother 
on either side. Opposite the window and between the door 
and the fireplace is a neat little ^^armoire'' upon the top of 
which is a collection of stuffed birds, and minerals, the birds 
having all been, with the exception of the woodpecker, pets 
of Madame Ducrot. One of them is a parrot with such a 
vicious expression that I was not surprised to learn that its 
evil disposition occasioned its death. A glass case enclosing 
a curious box made of straw, cones, shells and pebbles, sur- 
mounted by some small stuffed animals forms the center of 
the collection, and Mile. Francine looks down complacently 
from above them. A grinning little girl supposed to re- 
semble Mile. Helene at the age of three, and a match picture 
of her little brother aged seven, hang on either side of the 
^^armoire'^ and complete the family portraits. Over the fire- 
place of black and white marble are a large gilt mirror and 
the indispensable clock, with a vase on each side. A little 
marble-topped table at the head of the bed, a toilet-stand in 

[242] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

which is a mirror, a stuffed arm-chair, two small chairs, and 
two tabourets complete the furniture. 

The floor is covered with a Brussels carpet somewhat 
faded and the worse for w^ear. The window looks out upon 
the garden of a house which fronts the Avenue d 'Eylau. 

Sunday, November 15 

Took my coffee in bed, as that seems to be the custom 
here. Just as I had finished dressing, Louise, the domestic, 
came to tell me that a Mr. Burr from London was in the 
salon and would like to see me. He was the gentleman for 
whom a small package had been sent by us. Upon entering 
the salon, I found in addition to the company of last evening, 
Madame Ducrot, a comfortable, motherly-looking, black- 
ej^ed lady in black silk, with little fat, white hands. She 
welcomed us cordially and wished us to feel quite at home. 

Did not go to church. Received a call from Monsieur 
Chevalier, who thinks we have grown maigre. All the family 
went to Mass, it being an unpardonable sin according to 
their religion to neglect this duty, after which all can amuse 
themselves as they like. 

Mademoiselle Helene went out to give a lesson, and her 
sister, who is an artist, sat down with her crayons to design 
a foot of a lady in different positions. 

Rossini, the great musical composer, died to-day. 

Monday, November 16 

Called at the "Maison du Printemps" to leave a little 
traveling-bag for Mr. Burr to take back to London. Returned 
by the Rue de Rivoli, walked through the garden of the 
Tuileries and up the CJiamps Elysees home. There was no 

[243] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

flag displayed from the dome of the palace, which indicates 
that the Emperor is not in town. 

It is delightful to be in Paris again; everything is so 
fresh and beautiful, and the dear old Arc de Triomphe seems 
like a familiar friend. In the evening Mademoiselle Francine 
read aloud from "L'Avocat Patelin," a comedie. 

Tuesday, November 17 

The Chapoteaus live in a house just across the garden, 
and Mademoiselle Juliette and her brother, whom they call 
''Le Petit Emile," although he is a whiskered young man of 
twenty, take their meals and spend their evenings at Madame 
Ducrot's, as their mother is away visiting a sick relative. 
Mademoiselle Juliette, they say, has a fine voice, and takes 
singing-lessons from one of the finest masters in the city. 
Monsieur Henri Lager. She is very plain, looking more like 
a German than a French girl, but has magnificent hair and 
an interesting face when she is animated. 

Went to-day with Mademoiselle Helene to a modiste and 
ordered a green velvet bonnet ; then to the fourrier, where I 
left my muff to be lined. Took a carriage home, and on the 
way, Madmoiselle Helene told me a little of their history. 
Their father died about six years ago, and they lost their 
fortune at the same time, and with it many who professed 
to be their friends. Since then she and her sister had given 
lessons, and they have received at their house a fev/ boarders, 
who, like ourselves, v/ished to acquire the French language. 
She asked me if I thought her sister handsome; she seemed 
to take it as a matter of course that I did, and said when 
they were rich, they had many admirers, and Francine many 
suitors, but these pretended friends -had all left them, and 
she knev/ now that all they cared for was their money. She 

[244] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

says that if by any chance she should be rich again, she would 
never marry a Frenchman. 

Mademoiselle Francine finished reading the comedie in 
the evening, after which we played a game of ' ' spilikins, " or 
jackstraws. 

Wednesday, November 18 

Monsieur Chevalier called, and it seemed almost as nice to 
see his good face as to see Paris. He took the time out of 
Prince Leon's lesson to run over, as he is engaged from early 
morning until after nine in the evening. He regrets that we 
should be in Paris and not at his house, but thinks, as there 
are only men-boarders there, we should find it pleasanter here. 

Accompanied Mademoiselle Helene to Dr. Parmeley's, an 
American dentist, where she had a tooth examined. The omni- 
buses were so full that we could not get places together, so 
I took one to the bureau of the Madeleine where I waited 
about twenty minutes before she rejoined me. Called to see 
about my bonnet, which had been sent home in the morning 
with an enormous price attached to it. Obtained a reduction 
of seven francs all at one descent ! Went into the church of 
St. Roch where I had witnessed the "Messe de Minuit" last 
Christmas eve. Mademoiselle Ducrot ''made prayers" before 
the different altars, crossing herself many times devoutly. 
After leaving the church, we went through a narrow alley 
close beside it and up numerous flights of stairs, passing 
through various maiivaises odeurs, until we came to a little 
apartment occupied by a Frenchman and his wife who repair 
clothes. Mademoiselle Ducrot consulted the woman about 
doing over her cloak and trimming it with fur, after which 
we separated, and I returned home alone. 

In the evening a little girl, Jeanne Sarrico, one of 

[245] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Mademoiselle Helene 's pupils who lives in the house across the 
garden, came in to get some assistance about writing a little 
address to her father on his jour de fete. She is a HoUandaise, 
and the lady who has adopted her treats her very unkindly, 
but her adopted father is less severe. She is a bright, rosy- 
cheeked girl, and does not look in the least starved. 

Friday, November 20 

Madame Chapoteau has returned home, and she and her 
daughter spent the evening here. Madame reminds us very 
much of my mother. Mademoiselle Juliette sang ' ' La Separa- 
tion ' ' by Rossini, beautifully. Mademoiselle Francine wonders 
if the soul of the great composer is aware that his works have 
made him renowned and that his name will always be re- 
membered. 

Went to the ''Bureau de Poste," Rue de I'Arc de Tri- 
omphe, to mail a letter that was too late for the small 
''bureaux.'' It seemed so natural to be on that rue that it 
made me feel almost homesick to turn away. But we find it 
very pleasant at Madame Ducrot 's. The people are lively and 
interesting, and the sisters seem to think the world of each 
other. They are both talented, both artists, both musicians. 

The salon and salle a manger are ornamented with por- 
traits and other specimens of their talent. Among others the 
portrait of an Italian lady painted by Mademoiselle Francine 
when in Italy is beautiful, and the coloring very soft and life- 
like. Mademoiselle Helene gave me a funny account of the 
manner in which she and Francine and their "cousin and 
cousine" spent the evening of our arrival while expecting 
us, speculating as to whether we should be agreeable additions 
to their family or otherwise. They pretended to be in great 
trepidation at every little noise they heard on the stairs. I 

[246] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

thought they had a suddenly subdued air about them when I 
entered, and they inquired where my aunt was, thinking I 
was the niece. 

Madame Duerot and Francine have gone to the theater 
this evening. Just before going home Madame Chapoteau 
accidentally broke the shade to the hanging-lamp. It was 
some time in falling, and the expression of earnest consterna- 
tion depicted upon her countenance before the final smash 
was so droll to see that the rest of us simultaneously burst 
into a peal of laughter. 

Saturday, November 21 

Went with Ellie to buy her a hat, going first to the Fau- 
bourg St. Honore, where we found the prices too exorbitant 
to admit of our patronage. Met Madame Chapoteau and her 
daughter, who were returning from the funeral of Rossini. 
Mademoiselle Juliette had a white porcelain lamp-shade on her 
arm to replace the broken one. Spent the evening at Madame 
Chapoteau 's. 

Sunday, November 22 

Attended service at the Rue de Berri, where Dr. Goodrich 
of Cleveland, Ohio, preached from the text found in Psalms 
31:15. 

Monday, November 23 

Rainy. Madame Duerot had several callers, one an Ameri- 
can lady. Miss Cameron from New York, who is a pupil of 
Monsieur Levasseur's in the same l!Jcole de Dessin with 
Mademoiselle Francine; another lady, English, who formerly 
boarded here, but who left because Nora told her that Madame 
Duerot was going to buy a little pig for a bedfellow for her 

[247] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

which was to be kept in the salon. Her head is not exactly 
''straight," and, believing the story and other extravagant 
ones improvised by the same author, she left for another 
boarding-place. She was in the habit of making the extraordi- 
nary announcement, "Je suis femme" when she was hungry, 
meaning, ' ' J 'ai f aim. ' ' Apropos of this, Nora, from accounts 
I hear, must have been an enfant terrible. She is from the 
South, an American, and her father was one of the "rebel 
Generals," Lawton by name. She hates all Yankees with a 
bitter hatred and says that when the command in the Bible 
to ' ' love your enemies ' ' was given, the ' ' Yankee ' had not been 
invented ! They lost 500 slaves by the Emancipation Procla- 
mation. She is only thirteen years old and a most depraved 
child, though, as they say, with ''beaucoup d 'esprit," and in 
spite of her faults, which were hardly less than crimes, was 
a general favorite. Her sister, Lulu, a few years older, they 
say, was remarkably lovely. Madame Ducrot's boarders have 
been mostly from the South, and bitter secessionists. Madame 
Ducrot does not sympathize with them, or if she does, is 
sufficiently diplomatic when conversing with me, not to seem 
to. She says that Lulu and Nora told her that one night after 
a terrible battle in which the South was victorious, their father 
took them to the battlefield strewn with dead bodies, mostly 
''Yankees." They there searched the pockets and kicked the 
faces of the dead soldiers, trampled upon their bodies, and 
finally carried off a head as a trophy, which they used as a 
plaything in their garden, tossing and kicking it about like 
a ball for several days until it became unendurable ! Madame 
expressed her horror and disbelief of such a story, but they 
assured her that it was true, and they "hate the Yankees." 

[^8] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday, November 24 

A magnificent day. Went to walk with EUie after dinner, 
down the Champs Elysees. Encountered a crowd in front of 
the hotel of the Queen of Spain, and when I inquired the 
reason, a woman answered that the Queen was about to come 
out. The two large entrance-gates were thrown wide-open 
and guarded by sergeants de ville, and as we happened to be 
in an excellent position for seeing, we concluded to wait and 
get a view of 

''Isabella, Queen of Spain [who] 
Mizzled when she could not reign ! ' ' 

In about three minutes, an open carriage drawn by two 
horses, with coachman and footman in plain blue livery with 
silver buttons, drove out at one gate and in at the other, close 
beside which we were standing. It appeared again presently, 
occupied by two ladies and two gentlemen, and the lady 
nearest us I recognized immediately as the ' ' Last of the Bour- 
bons" from her resemblance to the engravings with which 
the various public journals have been recently illustrated, 
although she looked very much better, her face when she 
bowed and smiled being really attractive. The carriage drove 
down the Champs Elysees and was soon lost in the distance. 

By the way, the rez-de-chaussee and the premier Stage of 
our boarding-house are occupied by a part of the suite of her 
dethroned Majesty, and we often see one of the ladies and a 
little girl promenading in the garden. 

Wednesday, Noveraber 25 

Had a little soiree this evening. The young ladies have 
announced their intention of having one every week. There 

[249] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

were several young ladies and five young gentlemen present, 
including a Marquis sporting a large ring outside the little 
finger of his delicate kid. None of the gentlemen were intro- 
duced to the ladies, it not being the custom in France so to 
do, but we could talk all the same. The salle a manger was 
converted into a ^' salle de haV for the occasion, where they 
waltzed, polkaed, danced, and galoped away an hour or so. 
Mademoiselles Helene and Juliette officiating individually at 
the piano. We played different games, among them ''La 
Toilette de Madame," which is similar to the game known as 
*' Stage-Coach" at home. The little Jeanne, one of Mademoi- 
selle's pupils, amused us much by calling for Madame^s fausses 
dents, her oeil de verre, her faux palais, etc., on the whole giv- 
ing Madame a very artificial character. "When Madame desires 
toute la toilette, it has the same effect as the ''breaking-down 
of the stage-coach." This same little Jeanne has an adopted 
mother who is very unkind to her, but she dresses her prettily 
and gives her enough to eat. She has the reddest cheeks 
imaginable, and they shine as if they had been polished. After 
refreshments, including tea, coffee and chocolate, our soiree 
broke up, it being nearly midnight. 

Thursday, Novemler 26 

Thanksgiving Day. Received a nice letter from Lizzie 
before I was up. Had dejeuner at half -past ten, as on Sabbath 
mornings, in order to be in season for the service at the Rue 
de Berri. Listened to an excellent sermon by Dr. Robinson. 
The choir sang a beautiful Thanksgiving hymn, and the exer- 
cises were homelike and interesting. Dr. Robinson read the 
one hundred third Psalm, remarking that the Rev. John Angell 
James was accustomed to read the same every Saturday eve- 
ning aloud to his family. Met Monsieur Chevalier on the 

[250] 



i 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Champs Elysees as we were returning home. He took a little 
walk with us, leaving us at the head of our avenue, where we 
met Mademoiselle Helene. 

Friday, November 27 

Foggy. Miss Evelyn Bailey, an American from the South, 
dined here. She is very wealthy, and notwithstanding she has 
red hair and white eyelashes, is very pretty indeed. Her hair is 
magnificent in spite of its color. She is a friend of the Law- 
tons and probably hates "Yankees." She expressed her in- 
tention of joining the Roman Catholic Church; ''Protestant 
churches are so cold in their form of worship ' ' that she cannot 
really pray when she is in one of them. She is as yet un- 
decided whether to join the Russian or the Roman Catholic 
Church; does not quite see how it is "right for the Pope to 
grant indulgences to the rich and withhold them from the 

poor." Mademoiselle Francine told her that Pere 

somebody would instruct her and explain all the things she 
did not understand. She spoke of losing "cent" (or "cinq") 
francs the other night in playing cards ! 

Saturday, November 28 

Have taken my coffee in bed mornings, on the principle 
that "when you are with the Romans you must do as the 
Romans do," but think I shall not continue the practice. 
I am ready at nine o'clock to take my lesson and after that 
I read for an hour or so with Madame to improve in pronuncia- 
tion. Mademoiselle Francine goes away to her Ecole de 
Dessin every morning before eight o'clock and returns about 
half-past five. Mademoiselle Helene is out from ten till nearly 
seven, giving lessons in French and music, only coming home 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to dejeuner at noon. She has several Americans among her 
pupils. 

Louise always announces the meals by saying, Madame 
est servie; she is a remarkable servant; besides all her other 
duties she officiates as femme de chamhre to the young ladies, 
arranging their hair and lacing their boots. She is an excel- 
lent cook, tidy and expeditious, honest as the days are long 
and saving of ' ' candle ends and sich. ' ' Madame says she pays 
her forty-five francs per month. 

Mademoiselle Helene can speak a little English. To-day 
just as she v/as going out, she popped her head in at the door 
to say, "Groodbye, darling ladies," with the prettiest accent 
imaginable. She has a very sweet voice and is always kind 
and pleasant. I wonder if "broken French" sounds as charm- 
ing as "broken English." I'm afraid not. This evening 
Mademoiselle Francine told me of the models at Monsieur 
Levasseur's Ecole de Dessin, an account rather shocking to 
my unsophisticated ears. 

Sunday, November 29 

Sombre. Dr. Robinson's morning address was founded 
upon 1st Kings 20 :40. Among other things he said that dur- 
ing the seven months of his ministry in this chapel, he had 
never been called to stand by a death-bed, or officiate at a 
funeral ! In the afternoon he gave an account of his visit to 
Rome during Holy Week, and of the services of Good Friday 
in the Sistine Chapel. It was a realization of the dreams of 
his youth. His powers of deseription are wonderfully fine. 
He took us to Rome, where we saw the Vatican, the Sistine 
Chapel and that remarkable painting of Michael Angelo's, , 
"The Last Judgment," the Pope, the Cardinals, and we could | 
seem to hear the sad, sweet strains of the "Miserere" for our- 

[252] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

selves. He says the "Miserere," to be appreciated, must be 
heard in the Sistine Chapel; one needs all the surroundings 
to feel its full effect. 

On returning home, I found Mademoiselle Helene all 
dressed ready to attend a grand dinner-party at the house of 
Madame Paiva d'Andrada, a Portuguese lady. It was the 
first time I had seen her in her long dress. 

Monday, Novemher 30 

Mademoiselle Helene gave me a description of the party 
she attended last evening. The ladies were beautifully dressed ; 
there was music and dancing, and, to cap the climax of the 
festivities, one of the gentlemen present received the order of 
Knighthood from the hand of Madame Paiva d'Andrada, who 
had been appointed by the Queen of Portugal to officiate in her 
name, the husband of Madame Paiva d'Andrada being the 
Portuguese Ambassador. It was a perfect surprise to the 
gentleman in question, who was thus rewarded for some act 
of valor appreciated by his sovereign. The gentlemen kissed 
the hands of the ladies on being introduced to them, which is 
a much more graceful custom than the French, of not being 
introduced at all. 

Tuesday, December 1 

Madame Chapoteau and her daughter called to invite us to 
go to walk with them in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris is not 
very gay at present, as the Emperor is in the country, this 
being the hunting season, and there were fewer carriages than 
usual. There were some handsome turnouts, however, and it 
seems to be the style to decorate the horses' heads with gay 
ribbons, which match in color the dresses of the ladies in the 
carriage. We made the tour of the lake. Passed a cascade 

[253] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 






of hot water which seemed such a strange thing that Madame 
put her hand in the lake to assure herself that it was really 
hot. Other cascades seemed to be surrounded by the same 
steamy atmosphere, which indicated that the water was also ; 
hot. How it is heated in such large quantities is a mystery 
to me. Stopped to feed the ducks and swans. Saw a curious 
affair, a sort of velocipede for the water. Velocipedes are quite 
the rage here for young gentlemen. They are droll-looking 
affairs, a sort of walking shadows, having length without 
breadth or thickness. 

After returning from our walk called on Madame Cheva- 
lier. She was alone, and our call was rather long, as she would 
not allow us to go when we first started. Monsieur Chevalier 
was away as usual at that time ; so we did not have the pleasure 
of seeing him. 

Wednesday, December 2 

Went to the furrier's to get my muff. In the evening 
Madame Montagis and her daughter, Alice, who live on the 
same floor, came in and sat awhile. 

Thursday f December 3 

Took a promenade touie seule to the Rue de Paix. The 
walking was shocking. Had no soiree this evening, but we 
played a game called vingt-et-un. There was not much to it, 
but the company was pleasant, and we all chattered a great 
deal of French. Mademoiselle Helene related a droll incident, j 
She said she and Mrs. Colkit frightened a French lady almost 
out of her wits once when they were traveling in the cars. 
Thinking that she could not understand English, they amused 
themselves by talking together in that language, about thrust- 
ing an umbrella through her body and throwing her out of the 

[254] 

ii 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

window, as the most direct method of possessing themselves 
of her chignon of which they had need. The poor woman was 
petrified with fright, but took the opportunity to escape from 
such a terrible fate the first time the train stopped, for she 
had understood all they had said and was afraid to remain 
alone with them any longer. Francine was very gay this 
evening and explained to us the signification of the various 
pantomimes in vogue among the Paris gamins. She looks 
upon everything to-day in the philosophical light that ''It will 
be all the same to me and when I am dead" and allows none of 
the vexatious incidents of the day to put her out of humor. 
Took a promenade down the Champs Elysees. There were 
few people out, as the weather is rather dismal and the streets 
are very muddy. 

Saturday, Decemher 5 

Rainy. Took my lesson as usual and afterwards read 
aloud for an hour to Madame Ducroit. In the evening gave 
a lesson in English to Mademoiselle Helene and le petit Emile. 

8u7hday, December 6 

Windy. Did not attend the morning service. The sacra- 
ment is administered the first Sabbath in every month. Dr. 
Robinson was assisted in the service to-day by a gentleman 
who made some excellent remarks, to which he himself made 
some happy additions. Dr. Robinson is a decided contrast to 
his predecessor; is full of life and animation, and the society 
seems to be in a much more flourishing condition than it was 
a year ago. The church has at present forty-nine members. 
The singing this afternoon was very good in spite of the ab- 
sence of the choir, Dr. Robinson who has a fine voice, and, I 
should judge, considerable musical ability, beginning the 

[^55] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tunes on the right pitch. In the course of his remarks, he 
mentioned the fact that two days after death the ''ruling 
passion" is stamped upon the face. He spoke of the prayer- 
meeting as the ''thermometer of the church." If the prayer- 
meeting is thin, it indicates a cold and lifeless state of the 
church. If we confine our labors to a narrow sphere, our 
spiritual life must suffer. If an acorn is planted in a bucket, 
either the bucket must split or the oak must die. 

Monday, December 7 l| 

We had dejeuner at ten o'clock, in order to be in season 
at the opening lecture of the course to be delivered before the 
College de France by Monsieur Edouard Laboulaye. Started 
soon after eleven, accompanied by Madame Chapoteau and 
Mile. Juliette. Took a carriage from the Champs Elysees, 
arriving at the College about twenty minutes before the 
doors were open. Found many ladies, some sitting and 
others standing in the vestibule near the doors, which were at 
last thrown open, and a polite rush was made for the few 
seats in the hall which are reserved for ladies, namely, the 
two rows in front and at the sides of the platform, the rest 
of the hall being devoted to the gentlemen, who came rushing 
in from an opposite entree. The hall was filled in a twinkling, 
and many were obliged to content themselves with seats in the 
vestibule or go away disappointed. After waiting until the 
hands of the clock announced midi et demie, the time for the 
lecture to commence, the audience folded papers and books 
and laid them aside, preliminary to note-taking, the 
assembly assuming an attitude of expectancy. The rustle of 
impatience changed into cheers of applause, as the lecturer 
appeared upon the platform. 

After bowing his acknowledgements, he seated himself 

[256] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

in the chair waiting for him which he occupied during his 
lecture. Monsieur Laboulaye is over sixty years of age, with 
thin hair slightly gray and rather long, parted at the side 
and combed smoothly over his head. A stray lock falls for- 
ward now and then, which he puts back with the air of one 
accustomed to handle all subjects with care and considera- 
tion. He is one of the great men of France, a savant, who 
has doubtless already heard his distant footsteps echoing in 
the ''corriodors of Time." He has occupied that chair for 
the last thirty years. 

The lectures are a continuation of the course last winter, 
the subject being the ''French Revolution." They are free 
to the public, the lecturer being paid by the government, not- 
withstanding that the sentiments he expresses are often 
strongly Republican. He was imprisoned several months 
during the early part of the reign of the present Emperor, 
for his Republican sentiments. He is now very popular both 
as a speaker and writer, is the author of "Paris en Ameri- 
que" and various other works, scientific and miscellaneous. 
He has translated the works of Franklin and others into 
French, and in his younger days, traveled much for a 
Frenchman and resided some time in America. 

This first lecture upon "Le Droit Naturel" was merely 
an introduction to those which are to follow, he having only 
conducted us, as he said, to the threshold of the door, which 
in his next, he should throw open to us. His remarks were 
full of spirit, a combination of wit and humor, philosophy 
and originality, and he was often interrupted by cheers, 
which he received with the air of an habitue, merely pausing 
until the enthusiasm had subsided quietly resuming the 
thread of discourse as though it had not been broken. After 
a grave and learned dissertation from which he deducted 

[257] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



4 



the fact that all nations have a language by which they can 
communicate their ideas, which he expressed in the concise 
form of ''All men talk," he added with a glance at the 
feminine portion of his audience, ''and some women, too!" 
It was so utterly irrelevant to what he had been saying, and 
so unexpected, that there was a simultaneous outburst of 
laughter, we poor dames not knowing whether to be more 
provoked at the laugh raised at our expense, or gratified 
that the great man, who had before seemed quite oblivious 
of our presence, had at last condescended to notice us, 
even in such a way. 

He lectures every Wednesday upon some scientific sub- 
ject, ladies not attending, as such subjects are supposed to 
be beyond their comprehension. 

After the lecture, we proceeded to the Bon Marche, 
passing on our way the church of St. Sulpice, one of the 
largest in Paris, which we entered. The chapel to the Virgin 
is very beautiful. The light falls from above upon a figure 
of the Sainte Vierge in marble or plaster. She is holding the 
Infant in her arms, her feet resting upon a globe which 
seems to be upheld by the clouds, surrounded by angels 
and worshipping figures, the whole arrangement having the 
effect of floating in the air, and you almost expect the 
whole affair to disappear while you gaze. There are many 
other smaller chapels to different saints, each beautiful, 
which we only glanced at in passing. 

The crowd at the Bon Marche was something fearful, a 
mixture of nations and a Babel of tongues. We purchased 
an umbrella for which we had immediate use, some ribbon 
and canvas, and beat a hasty retreat. It was raining very 
fast, and after many difficulties in finding the different cab- 
stands empty, we at last engaged a carriage that was just 

[2S8] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

depositing a trunk and some other baggage, much to the 
chagrin of the cocker, who did not like the idea of taking such 
a long course in a violent storm of rain. 

This evening played "hide and seek" with Cocotte, who 
is very expert at the game, Madame Ducrot on one 
side of the fire-place and I on the other. Cocotte marches 
along the mantle-piece to find us, as we are not in sight. 
The space between the clock and edge of the mantle-piece 
is too narrow for him to walk along, so he lets himself down 
by catching hold of the fringe of the mantle drapery and 
drawing himself up on the other side, going to the end and 
peering over when he spies the one hiding, and sets up a 
laugh and scream and starts for the other end, going through 
the same performance, and laughs and screams out his suc- 
cess, seeming to enjoy the fun as much as a human being. 

Thursday, December 8 

During dejeuner the sky suddenly clouded over, and we 
had quite a tempest. Took a walk in the afternoon and 
purchased some letter-paper. The Chapoteaus dined here; 
charades in the evening; one word was "piano" the actors 
being Madamoiselle Helene and "le petit Emile." 

Wednesday, Decemher 9 

This evening Madamoiselle Helene received an invoice 
of letter-paper and envelopes, and on going to put it in the 
drawer of the secretary, found the place monopolized as a 
jewel depository. She immediately began removing the 
hijoux to another drawer, much to the disapproval of her 
sister, who watched the proceedings with a dolorous ex- 
pression on her pretty face, now and then offering a gentle 
expostulation. There were beautiful chains, bracelets, rings, 

[259] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ear-ornaments, brooches, etc., some of them of rare work- 
manship, especially an Egyptian bracelet of wrought gold, 
a present to Madamoiselle Francine from her godmother. 
After they were all nicely arranged, Madamoiselle Francine 
seemed quite reconciled to the change. Mademoiselle Helene 
then took from a little box some incense which she lighted 
and placed in the drawer for her paper, and when the drawer 
was sufficiently scented gave it to me to put in my writing 
desk. 

Thursday, December 10 

• Ellie called on Madame Chevalier and found her ill with 
the toothache. In the evening the Chapoteaus came, and we 
had singing and charades, one of the words being *'Vin- 
cennes.'' 

Gave a lesson in English to my two pupils, to whom I 
told the story of the little boy whose mother sent him for the 
cow, which they repeated afterwards in French. Helene has 
given more attention to English than le petit Emile and has 
succeeded rather better than he in repeating it. He began in 
this way : ' ' Wonce ther vas ah leetil by, ond hees mother zend 
heem fur the cow." I have to translate the same story into 
French for a part of my lesson to-day. 

Friday, Decem'ber 11 

A bright windy morning, a certain precursor of a rainy 
day, so says Madame Ducrot, who is quite a weather-prophet. 
Mademoiselle Francine gave me my dictee this morning, as she 
has a holiday. The rain fell in torrents at dinner-time. Made- 
moiselle Francine kept us laughing at the table because of 
the droll description she gave of one of her friends in Bour- 
gogne. For a more vivid illustration she took a tumbler and 

[260] 



1 



f 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

a knife to represent their appearance while dancing together, 
her friend being the tumbler and she the knife. 

Saturday, December 12 

Rainy. Recited my lesson and read. Took a short walk 
and gave a lesson in English in the evening. The story of 
the little boy whose mother sent him for the cow — in French : 
'^11 y avait une fois un petit gareon. Sa mere I'envoya 
chercher une vache. En y allant il trouva un grand trou dans 
le champ. II pensa qu'il descendrait pour voir ce qu'il y avait 
la C'etait une taniere d'ours. II se coucha sur le lit de la 
vieille ourse, mais il etait si dur qu'il ne put pas y rester. II 
se coucha sur le lit du petit ours, et il etait si doux qu'il 
I'ecrasa tout entier. II s'assit sur la chaise de la vieille ourse, 
mais elle etait si dure qu'il ne put pas y rester. II s'assit sur 
la chaise du petit ours, et elle etait si douce qu'il 1' ecrasa tout 
entier. Alors il descendit dans la cave et il gouta le lait de la 

I vieille ourse, mais il etait si aigre qu'il ne pouvait pas le boire. 

1 II gouta le lait du petit ours, et il etait si sucre qu'il le but 

I tout entier. Tout a coup il entendit les ours, et il monta vite 
les marches et se cacha derriere la porte de la cave, d'ou il 

I entendit la vieille ourse qui disait, dans une grosse voix : ' ^ Qui 
a ete se coucher sur mon lit?" Et le petit ours, '^Qui a ete 

j se coucher sur mon lit et I'a ecrase tout entier?" Et le vieille 
ourse, ' ^ Qui a ete s 'asseoir sur ma chaise ? " Et le petit ours, 
* ' Qui a ete s 'asseoir sur ma chaise et 1 'a ecrasee tout entier ? ' ' 
Apres, les ours descendirent a la cave et la vieille ourse disait, 
''Qui a ete gouter mon lait?" Et le petit ours, ''Qui a ete 

i gouter mon lait et I'a bu tout entier?" Alors les ours com- 
mencerent a chercher et ils trouverent le petit gareon derriere 
la porte de la cave; et la vieille ourse disait, "Allons le tuer 
et le manger." Mais le petit -ours disait, "Non, Maman, nous 

[261] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

couperons un petit morcean de son oreille et lui donnerons un 
petit morcean de pain et de beurre et pnis nons I'enverrons 
chez Ini. Alors ils conperent nn petit morcean de son oreille, 
Ini donnerent nn petit morcean de pain et de benrre et I'en- 
voyerent chez Ini." 

Sunday, December 13 

Dr. Robinson preached in the morning from II Samnel 
14 :14, the fonrth of the seven parables in the Old Testament. 
In the afternoon he gave ns an account of his visit to Egypt, 
choosing the text fonnd in Ezek. 27:9. "And the land of 
Egypt shall be desolate and waste." He confined his descrip- 
tions to Alexandria and Cairo. He -advises all travelers who 
have the intention of visiting Egypt and the Holy Land, to 
lose no time but go at once before modern innovations have 
gained any more ground. He spoke of the incongruity of the 
steam-whistle, where the inhabitants are so deliberate in their 
movements. It seems as if two worlds were trying to struggle 
into one with more than two thousand years between them! 
It is painful to a sensitive ear to hear them shout out the 
stations ' ' Bethsaida ! Jerusalem ! " or ' ' Change cars for Naza- 
reth ! ' ' and he says by no means go upon Lake Gennesaret in 
a steamboat! He finished by contrasting St. Mark and Alex- 
ander the Great. 

This has been a superb day, as rare as a ' ' day in June. ' ' 
It was quite a feat to accomplish the crossing from the head 
of this avenue to the Arc de Triomphe, for the carriages are 
innumerable. I stood for a moment deliberating whether or 
not to ask a sergeant de ville to escort me, but finally con- 
cluded to brave the danger on my own responsibility, and 
accordingly started, proceeding calmly and slowly, stopping 
every few steps as a carriage passed in opposite directions 

[262] 




Monsieur Laboulaye 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

on either side of me, and then marching on in the maze, my 
emotions gradually reaching a climax of sublimity until, the 
long distance accomplished, I stepped upon the wide circum- 
ference of the inner circle of the Ar^c de Triomplie and looked 
upon that grand work of art as a monument to my own per- 
sonal efforts on that particular occasion. 

Monday, December 14 

Attended the second lecture of Monsieur Laboulaye. Ar- 
rived nearly an hour before the time and found many ladies 
waiting in the vestibule. Went in at the left-hand entrance 
and took a seat nearly facing the lecturer. This seat was not 
so agreeable as the one I occupied before. The room was over- 
heated and I had a headache, and did not much enjoy the lec- 
ture, though from the frequent cheering and cries of "Tres 
bien!^' I judge that it was from no fault on the part of the 
lecturer. 

Monsieur Laboulaye read a long political dissertation 
from the writings of Mirabeau. After the lecture accompanied 
Madame Chapoteau and Juliette on their search for a pretty 
embroidery pattern for a sofa-cushion. "We visited many 
shops and saw some exquisite work, but the price was so high 
that we did not purchase. To prevent being annoyed by the 
persistent solicitations of the clerks, Madame Chapoteau in- 
formed them she was not selecting the pattern for herself, and 
she was not at liberty to pay so much ; if it were for herself 
it would be another thing. She apologized to me afterwards 
by saying one was ''obliged to tell all sorts of mensonges to 
the clerks ' ' or one would never get away ! Our last visit was 
at a little box of a shop, up several flights of dark stairs, where 
the proprietor in a blue blouse was ready to receive and exe- 
cute orders, his business being to design patterns for em- 

[263] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

broidery. After a long consultation in which a certain pat- 
tern was agreed upon, the whole affair was suddenly termi- 
nated by a misunderstanding in regard to price, when we 
took our leave, much to the indignation of the ''designing 
man" whose adieus were anything but polite. Went to the 
teinturier's and afterwards took an omnibus from the Bourse 
and returned home. 

Tuesday, December 15 

Rainy. Madame Ducrot, slightly indisposed, sits in a 
ruffled white cap in an easy-chair by the chimney-corner tend- 
ing the fire, amusing herself sometimes with her embroidery, 
sometimes with the "cocotte," whose conversational and 
screeching powers are developing to a wonderful extent. His 
vocabulary consists of "Bonjour, Cocotte." ''Yenez, mon 
cocotte, la voila la voila!" ''Bonjour, Monsieur Cocotte." 
''Viens done, mon cocotte." "Oui, oui, oui, mon cocotte." 
' ' Louise ! Louise ! Louise ! " ' ' Viens done, ma Francine ! ' ' 
' ' Helene ! ' ' interspersed with screechings and screamings and 
imitations of kissings. 

This morning Mademoiselle Helene related to me a little 
historical incident which I am to write out in French : 

It is a belief among the French peasantry that the first 
flower that blossoms upon a grave is a thought sent by the 
departed to the friends they have left behind. The story was 
of a soldier who deserted, to seek for the first flower that should 
blossom on the grave of his mother. The flower proved to be 
a myosotis, or "Ne m'oubliez pas." He had distinguished 
himself for his bravery and was beloved by his comrades and 
superiors, and deserted only after having begged permission 
three times for a short leave of absence, and having been re- 
fused, as it was on the eve of a battle. He returned afterwards, 



[264] 



1 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was tried as a deserter and condemned to death, but was par- 
doned by the Emperor, Napoleon I., who heard the circum- 
stances and appeared in person just as the young soldier was 
about to be executed. 

Wednesday, December 16 

It rained until about half -past four, when it cleared away, 
and I took a long walk. Mademoiselle Francine did not go 
to the '^Cours'^ to-day and gave me my dictee, and worked 
upon a painting she has at home. She took out two huge 
portfolios of paintings, some of her first efforts. Among them 
were old ancestral portraits in oil almost faded out. One of 
them was a Cardinal and the other a Captain, both relatives 
of Madame Ducrot, whose family, I should infer, belonged to 
the nobility. 

Thursday, December 17 

Had a soiree this evening, the Chapoteaus, Pigots, and 
*'la petite Jeanne" being present. Had charades, the actors 
really displaying a good deal of talent, especially le petit 
Emile (in one scene where he represented an old grandfather) 
and Mademoiselle Helene and Monsieur Pigot. The words in 
the charades were ''Camelia," "Metronome," and "Chien- 
fou." Juliette Chapoteau sang several pieces, but the gem of 
all was ''La Separation" by Rossini, to which her voice seems 
especially adapted. 

Friday, December 18 

Called on the Griswolds who live at present at 141 Boule- 
vard Pereires. Had some difficulty in finding the house, as the 
Boulevard is so rambling. The little Annie has grown a good 
deal in the last seven months. She is delighted with her little 

[265] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sister who is not so large as her doll. They spent the summer 
in Lucerne and found the air of Switzerland beneficial to all. 
I returned home by a rue which leads directly into the 
Avenue Wagram, a much shorter distance than the way 
I took in going. It was very populous and filled with small 
shops and children. One dirty little boy marched along in 
front of me, carrying under the soiled sleeve of his frock 
about tv/o feet of bread, which I congratulated myself I 
didn't have to eat, though perhaps his facsimile brings the 
''staff of life" to Madame Ducrot every morning. ''Where 
ignorance is bliss 'tis folly to be wise" has here a good 
application. Men, women, and children were upon the 
narrow sidevv^alks chatting in groups, and I was glad to 
escape from such a swarm of beings and find myself at 
last upon the broad avenue, at the head of which, in sublime 
grandeur towered the Arc de Triomphe, whose summit 
seemed to touch the moon, which hung over it in the shape 
of a silver bow. 

Saturday, December 19 

Started early this morning with Ellie and Madame 
Ducrot for the private chapel connected with the "Semi- 
naire des Missionaires" on the Rue de Bac to witness the 
ceremony of ordaining Catholic priests for foreign missions. 
There were seven candidates for the priesthood, among them 
a nephew of Madame Ducrot, Monsieur Marcel Simon. The 
ceremonies began at half-past six, and they had already 
"renounced the world" when we arrived. The chapel was 
small but pretty, with stained-glass windov/s and hanging- 
lamps, pictures in oil with the subjects usual in Catholic 
churches, and three altars; the principal one which was at 
the farther extremity of the chapel was marked "Autel 

[266] 



J 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

privilege," as also was one of the two smaller altars situ- 
ated at the sides near the door. The place for spectators was 
rather restricted, but we found very good standing-room 
just under the gallery where the orchestra was stationed, 
and opposite the principal altar. 

Extending along the sides of the chapel were four 
long rows of priests, two on each side, those on the outside 
lines dressed in black skirts and white mousseline tunics and 
black caps. The priests of the interior lines, which meeting 
at the end formed a semicircle, wore elegant robes of silk, 
satin, or velvet richly embroidered and having the usual 
figures of the cross extending the whole length of the 
back and across the shoulders, each robe in the line of a dif- 
ferent color but matching with the one opposite. All the 
priests, besides having their faces shaved, had also a small 
circle shaved from the crown of the head, giving a very 
peculiar effect to the long line. At the side altars, priests, 
oblivious of the more elaborate ceremonies at the central 
altar, officiated on their own responsibility, going through 
the various pantomimes of the Mass, such as bowing, 
kneeling on one knee, holding up their hands and rolling 
up their eyes, crossing themselves and administering the 
wafer to a few communicants kneeling in their vicinity, 
drinking a glass of wine, with their backs turned upon the 
company; then wheeling suddenly about with their arms 
extended, they administered a pantomimic blessing, finally 
disappearing through a side exit, their places being supplied 
after a short time by others who went through the same routine. 

The ceremony of "renouncing the world," already 
alluded to, consists in having those who are to be ordained 
for the priesthood lie flat on their backs upon the floor as if 
dead, while the priere des morts is chanted over them; this 

[^7] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

signifies that they are dead to the world. After this they 
rise and go through various other ceremonies. "When they 
have arrived at a certain stage, an embroidered robe is put 
on each, pinned up in such a way as to conceal the figure 
ol the cross upon the back, as they are not yet priests. Dur- 
ing this embryo state, they seem to have committed some 
misdemeanor, and go one by one up the steps of the altar 
to the bishop, where they have their hands tied like naughty 
boys for a punishment, and come down again looking very 
downcast and sober. After standing for awhile, they again 
ascend the altar-steps where their hands are untied, their 
robes unpinned; they are washed and have a little piece of 
bread given them, and then come out full-blown priests! 
A priestly official stood upon the platform of the altar to 
regulate the movements of these priests stationed in rows. 
These, I believe, were not priests at all, but a lower order of 
church dignitaries, and their office seemed to be to regulate 
the kneeling, bowing, sitting, standing, or prostrating, as 
the occasion required. In the intervals he would suddenly 
leave his stand with no visible purpose to the uninitiated, 
march down the center of the chapel, make two or three bows 
in an abstracted manner and return to his place. 

At one stage in the ceremony each one was supplied 
witli a lighted candle, and after they had kissed all around, 
incense was offered, and the choir chanted. 

The Bishop, who rejoiced in a heavy beard, was dressed 
in richly embroidered robes of purple velvet, with purple 
gloves and slippers, a mitre and a staff. He was surrounded 
by various assistants in long black petticoats and short 
white mousseline tunics, who busied themselves in a variety of 
ways, one taking off his mitre which another would hold 
for awhile, and replace again; then present his gilded staff 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and taking it away again, holding up a great book to be 
read from, kneeling before him and finally undressing him 
and laying his rich robes upon the altar, and bearing away 
his shoes on a silver salver, after which he beat a hasty re- 
treat at a side-door, followed by a few scattering priests and 
nondescripts; then the tapers were extinguished upon the 
altars and the ceremonies were ended. 

Madame Ducrot introduced an English lady, Mrs. Flint, 
who was formerly a Protestant, but at present is a very 
devoted Catholic; she was much affected by the sight she 
had just witnessed, and thought it could not fail to impress 
all present, and I quite agreed with her, as she did not 
specify in what particular manner. 

As Madame wished to speak to Monsieur Marcel, we 
went to the concierge, who informed her that it would be 
impossible until after dinner, much to Madame 's indigna- 
tion, notmthstanding she informed him she had something 
I for Monsieur Marcel which it was necessary for him to have, 
a little fable invented for the occasion and minus a moral. 
We proceeded to the Bon Marche, where after making 
some small purchases we left Madame in company with 
Mrs. Flint and took an omnibus home. Mademoiselle Helene 
had just breakfasted alone and had her bonnet on ready to 
; go out; she went across the garden to the Chapoteaus', 
where she waited until I called for her, and we started to- 
gether for a shoe-shop, where we spent about an hour trying 
to get fitted to a pair of boots, for the little girl who waited 
li on us would not admit any fault in their goods ; it was always 
i our feet that were too large or too short. From there we 
j; started for Pere la Chaise, but on inquiring of a sergeant-de- 
\ ville at what hour it was closed, we learned that it was at 
i four o'clock, and it being already past that time, we started 

I [269] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

for the chapel St. Joseph on the Rue Corbeau where 
Mademoiselle Helene was to meet her sister and make a 
confession of her seven sins to the Pere Simon. Unfor- 
tunately Pere Simon had taken his departure just before 
our arrival and would not return again to the confessional 
for two hours and a half. I decided not to wait with them, 
and they accompanied me to the omnibus station, as it was 
already dark. 

This is one of the most thickly populated quarters of 
Paris and the streets were filled with people. As we passed 
along, a workman just descending from a ladder placed 
against one of the houses exclaimed on seeing us, ^'Les 
belles Anges!" in utter defiance of all rules of etiquette or 
grammar. I left the young ladies, who wished me to tell 
Louise to have "deux oeufs pour chaque" when they should 
arrrive home, which would probably be before nine o'clock. 

Sunday, December 20 

Dr. Robinson preached from St. Luke 2:15, a sermon 
in anticipation of Christmas. Attended the Sunday School 
Concert in the afternoon which was devoted entirely to teach- 
ing the children some hymns for Christmas. 

Monday, Beceinher 21 

Rainy and dismal. Did not go out. Read, wrote, and 
studied. Got out of patience with the "eocotte," who 
screamed in a manner unendurable. At dejeuner he climbed 
upon my dress to the table, marched up to my plate, and 
stole a piece of potato and ran away in triumph. He has 
taken a great fancy to me and is a "knowing critter." 
Madame Chapoteau and Juliette came in this evening. 
Juliette has begun her cushion and it is very handsome. 

[270] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday, Decemher 22 

Studied and read. In the afternoon "la petite Jeanne" 
came to the house to take her lesson. Recited a little poem 
about Ruth and Naomi, which she afterwards partly copied 
with the assistance of Mademoiselle Helene, who read the 
words for her to write. I found it a good lesson for me in 
pronunciation. 

Mademoiselle Francine amused us much on her return 
from the "Cours" in recounting some of Monsieur Levas- 
seur's peculiarities. He was impatient today and made 
poor Mademoiselle Cameron feel very bad by a remark he 
made in reference to her copy. Francine said she com- 
forted her by telling her that Monsieur Levasseur had been 
cross with her just before, which she says was not true, as 
Monsieur never speaks crossly to her, but Mademoiselle 
believed it and did not feel so bad. Mademoiselle Francine 
takes her dejeuner with them every day, but provides her own 
food, only using their salt and water. The family consists 
of Monsieur Levasseur, his wife, and two sons. As Francine 
was talking, she was about to take a mouthful of meat, but 
stopped with it on her fork, to explain that that morsel was 
as large as they had for a whole family, and one potato was 
an ample provision in that line, but they had a great many 
different courses to make up for it. 

Wednesday, Decemher 23 

Rainy. In the afternoon Madame Ducrot went out to 

jmake some calls, and just after her departure, Mrs. Flint 

came in, and we had a lively discussion upon Potestantism 

vs. Catholicism. Mrs. Flint says she enjoys her new re- 

jligion so much, likes to be in Paris because she has here so 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

many more religious privileges, and it pleases her to be in 
the midst of Catholics as her sympathies are with them, 
and, more than all, one is so happy to have at last found 
out the true Church, the true religion, and expresses her 
opinion that all other religions must eventually go down and 
the Catholic Church triumph. 

Thursday, December 24 

Today Madame Ducrot received a letter announcing 
her mother's death, at which she was quite overcome and 
sank upon the sofa exclaiming "Mon Dieu! Mon Dieu!" 
Madame Topin, hearing the exclamation, came in from the 
next room and sat down beside her, and the good Louise 
soon made her appearance with her face full of sympathy, 
bringing a glass of some sort of mixture for her to take. 
The gentleman who brought the note, and who proved to 
be a brother of Madame 's whom she had not seen for seven 
years, was meanwhile in the ante-chamber waiting for per- 
mission to enter. At first Madame refused to see him, but 
finally gave an ungracious assent. There has been some 
trouble in the family, and although this brother lives but 
a short distance from here, the families have no intercourse. 

The mother, who died very suddenly this morning, has 
lived until the last year with Madame Ducrot. She has been 
an invalid for several years, and the state of her health 
rendered it impossible for Mrs. Colquitt and some of 
Madame 's other boarders to remain here unless she went 
away, and as Madame Ducrot has no fortune and is depend- 
ent upon this means of gaining money aided by her daugh- 
ters, who give French and music lessons, she wished her 
mother to go and live with this brother until her boarders 
should leave in the spring when she could come back again. 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

This arrangement did not please the old lady, who was 
almost childish, and she left the house in anger, forbidding 
her daughter or her grandchildren ever to come to see her. 
The brother, too, who is very rich, tried to compel Madame 
Ducrot by a process of law to pay twenty francs a day for 
her mother's board while she should be at his house; in 
which, however, he did not succeed. This is one side of 
the story. Monsieur Lafouge, the brother, came to-day to 
ask her forgiveness, and she said he sobbed like a child. He 
is a fine-looking man, a retired officer of the French army. 
A few years ago he received an injury on his head from the 
kick of a horse, and Madame thinks he has never recovered 
from the effects of it. Not only does this belief render her 
no more lenient in regard to his faults, but it seems to have 
no weight with her, and she shows an unforgiving dis- 
position. He asked permission to come again this evening to 
see his nieces, but she told him it would not be worth while 
to trouble himself to such an extent and positively refused 
to see him. Mademoiselles Helene and Francine both had 
an ' ' attack of nerves ' ' this evening upon receiving the news 
of their grandmother's death. It seemed strange that a 
young lady of Francine 's ability and attainments and dig- 
nity of character should not have more control over herself. 
Her sister, too, is talented and sensible but seems to have a 
much more nervous temperament. 

Friday, Decemher 25 

Fete de Noel. Madame Ducrot 's mother was buried to- 
day. Mademoiselle Francine did not attend the funeral, 
as she said she was liable to have an "attack of nerves" 
there. The others went, accompanied by the Chapoteaus. 
Madame Ducrot returned home alone, as she did not wish to 

[273] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

go to the cemetery, and later in the afternoon Helene returned 
accompanied by her uncle, who does not seem inclined to be 
rebuffed in his attempts at a reconciliation. 

This afternoon Ellie and I went to the Rue de Berri to 
see the Christmas tree for the Sunday School children. The 
chapel was very handsomely trimmed with evergreen and 
brilliantly lighted. Mr. Griswold seemed to be presiding over 
the children, keeping them quiet and receiving the various 
little packages that were thrown to him for them by a Santa 
Claus and Santa Clausess, who, dressed all in fur from their 
heads to their feet, were engaged in dismantling the tree. The 
children were jubilant, but seemed no more so than the grown- 
up people. We remained but a moment and then started to 
call on Monsieur and Madame Chevalier. Found Monsieur 
alone, Madame having accepted an invitation they had re- 
ceived to dine with the Duchesse de Berghes, Monsieur being 
so sauvage as to prefer to dine alone. We looked over the old 
photograph-book to see what new additions had been made, 
and when we started for home, he accompanied us. 

Saturday, December 26 

Bright day. The Chapoteaus spent the evening here as 
usual. Juliette has nearly completed her sofa-cushion, which 
she intends as a present to Madame Lager, the wife of her 
music-teacher. It is very handsome and has a great amount 
of work in it. This evening gave Helene and le petit Emile an 
exercise in writing an English letter. They both set about it 
with much enthusiasm, and I nearly split my sides laughing 
at the letters after they were completed, especially the one 
composed and written by le petit Emile. Madam Ducrot, who 
sat as usual in the corner of the fireplace, amusing herself with 
the cocotte, startled us all by uttering a sudden scream and 

[274] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

announced that the hete had been trying to climb up her nose, 
beginning as usual by catching firmly hold with his bill. We 
could not help laughing, not even Madame herself, who will 
carry the marks for some time. 

Sunday, Decemher 27 

Rainy and windy. Could not go to church. Madame 
Ducrot had callers as usual. 

Monday, Decemter 28 

Attended the lecture at the College de France. Monsieur 
Laboulaye came before the public in his usual graceful manner, 
garbed in a swallow-tail coat, and took his chair amid the 
enthusiastic plaudits of an appreciative audience. He said 
there would be no lecture on the following Monday, as it fol- 
lowed so closely upon New Year's, and there were so many 
calls to be made and received. He would ask of the audience 
this conge as his etrenne. He was answered by cheers, 
after which he proceeded with the lecture. He spoke of 
Lafayette, Mirabeau, Verginaud, Petilion and Robespierre. 
Lafayette was the commander of the city militia. He added 
to them the French Guards, some Swiss, and a good number 
of soldiers who had deserted their regiments. These troops 
united took the name of ''Compagnies du Centre." The City 
Militia was called the National Guard. They assumed a uni- 
form and added to the red and blue, which were the colors 
of the city, the white, which was that of the King, thus com- 
promising v/ith the Royalists. This was the origin of the 
French tri-colored cockade. 

Louis XVI. possessed all the attributes of a martyr, but 
was deficient in those of a King. He also alluded to the tak- 

[275] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ing of the Bastille as an act that was not very well understood, 
and he was unable to throw more light upon it. 

Did a little shopping on the way home. The boulevards 
look gay, the windows being arranged in the most attractive 
manner. Merchants on a small scale were busy in putting up 
and arranging their little boutiques along the outside of the 
sidewalks, some of them already fitted up with toys and knick- 
knacks of all sorts, and in full working order. Some of the 
faces of the proprietors were "round and red and fat as a 
pulpit-cushion," some of them old and wrinkled. Most of 
these proprietors were women who were just peering out from 
the midst of jumping-jacks, dancing dolls, Chinese jugglers, 
and various animals too numerous to mention, which were put 
through a course of gymnastics that would have made the eyes 
of Dr. Dio Lewis stick out of his head with astonishment had 
he done them the honor of stopping for a moment to look on. 
We lost our way once, but soon found it, and arrived home in 
time to escape the rain, which began to fall just as we entered 
the gate. The good Louise had our coffee and lunch all ready 
for us as usual. 

Tuesday y December 29 
Rainy and windy all day. Studied, read, and wrote. 
Took a walk down the "Scamps Elizas" as far as the Rue de 
Berri, where I turned about in as dignified and graceful man- 
ner as the times would permit and retraced my steps. 

Wednesday, December 30 
Windy. Francine has had a holiday. Gave me a dictee 
and then busied herself the rest of the day in sewing for 
Madame Topin's baby. To-day the cocotte climbed up on 

[276] 




The Cocotte 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the drapery curtains to the top of the window where he began 
strutting and laughing and screaming most triumphantly to 
attract Madame Ducrot's attention. He knows very well that 
she does not allow him there. She tries to induce him to come 
down, but nothing avails until she goes to some one pretending 
to kiss by smacking her lips. Cocotte stops at cnce his laugh- 
ing and screaming and hurries to descend, for this makes him 
very jealous. On reaching the floor he walks as fast as possi- 
ble, climbs up on Madame 's dress and along her arm and 
perches on her finger. He looks very cross, flattening the 
feathers on the top of his head, which he hangs down, pouting 
for a moment. Then the feathers bristle up again as he raises 
his head and offers his bill for a kiss. The trouble is all settled 
and he is gay again. He seems almost human. 

Thursday, December 31 

Lovely day, the last of the year. Went out alone on an 
exploring expedition, first to the Bank on the Rue de la Paix. 
Everything beautiful for New Year's. Bought a brooch for 
EUie, ''Little Toots" with a mouse in her paws. Purchased a 
col-marin, for myself which is at present la mode, and cuffs 
to match. In one shop the clerk understood me to say instead 
of cols-marins, gants marrons, and displayed to my astonished 
gaze some maroon-colored gloves! I thought of the printer's 
mistake, ''For dumswizzle please read prominence." When I 
said ^Unarin," she said ^^marronf" to which I assented, think- 
ing she was correcting my pronunciation, but very soon saw 
that the mistake was on her side instead of mine. 

The little French children put their shoes on the hearth, 
instead of hanging up their stockings as they do in our 
country, and their Santa Glaus is Le Petit Noel, which is an- 
other name for the Infant Jesu, and for New Year, it is Le 

[277] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Pere Janvier who fills the shoes with gifts. This custom is 
mentioned in Les Miserables in speaking of the wooden shoe 
of poor little Cosette in connection with the dainty slippers 
of the Thenardier children. 



[278] 



1869 

Friday, January 1 

Started for a bookstore on tlie Rue St. Honore to see about 
a subscription for "La Semaine des Enfants." The morning 
was magnificent and our walk would have been delightful but 
for the beggars that beset us on all sides. It is a regular Fete- 
day for beggars ! Begging is against the law, but the authorities 
are lenient on this first day of the year, and as everybody is 
supposed to be more generous and large-hearted, the poor 
beggars come in for their gifts. The first encounter was with 
a little Italian boy on the Champs Elysees. He had a pair 
of magnificent eyes in his head and a dilapidated music-box 
in his hands. He ran along beside me for some distance, the 
music-box every now and then emitting a dolorous squeak, and 
he simultaneously extending his hand, looking shyly and half 
roguishly from under his broad-brimmed hat, and saying, ''Un 
petit sou." I gave him ''un petit sou" and he left me to beset 
the next comer. We passed several churches, and the steps 
of those which were open were alive with wretched-looking 
creatures, who with outstretched hands solicited alms of those 
going in or coming out. It was a sickening sight, and they 
looked more wretched, if possible, than the London beggars, 
probably from the contrast, as everything around them was 
so bright and beautiful. 

The doors of the Madeleine were hung with black, and 
we passed a private house, where funeral services were going 
on. 

It is the custom for the friends of the family to call and 

[279] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

present their wishes for a Happy New Year, and it is con- 
sidered very impolite if the family do not reward their callers 
by a kiss, even if they are gentlemen. The Ducrots received 
a good many callers. The Chapoteaus dined here and spent 
the evening, also the little godchild of Mademoiselle Helene, 
with Monsieur, Madame, and Mademoiselle Moncharmon, her 
father, mother, and sister. She is a very pretty little black- 
eyed damsel of eleven years with light brown hair which was 
quirked up on the back of her head after the fashion worn by 
little girls at the convent. Her sister is a beautiful young 
lady with light hair and handsome soft black eyes and a re- 
markably fine forehead. 

The little Helene was delighted with the gift from her 
godmother, a sheepskin commode furnished with knife, scissors, 
pencils, pens, ink and sand-bottles. 

While we were at dinner when everybody looked remark- 
ably handsome, Madame de la Grandgene and her two sons, 
Edmond and Lucien, called. The evening passed in music and 
conversation. Helene and Francine every now and then went 
the rounds with a new package of bonbons. Mademoiselle 
Helene received from Madame Saurroco, the mother of one of 
her pupils, a bouquet composed of lilacs, camellias, jasmine, 
roses, and pinks. The perfume is so heavy as to be almost 
disagreeable. It is placed in a handsome bronze vase with 
which it contrasts very prettily, and stands on a little round 
table by the v/indow. It seems to cause more regrets than 
pleasure that it must fade so soon when it cost so much. 

Ellie found in her boot this morning a little Chinese 
nurse with a baby in her arms, and Francine gave me a 
curious-looking, ferocious sort of flying-bug with scarlet 
feathers for wings. 

[280] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, January 2 

Fine day, although the night, like many recently, was 
rainy and tempestuous. Went on the other side of the river 
to the library of Hachette et Cie. and from there to the office 
of La Semaine des Enfants, but it being a fete-day, the direc- 
tors were away, and the serving-man was just on the point of 
locking up the establishment. Walked through the garden of 
the Luxembourg. Visited the great fountain. Polyphemus 
was still watching the two lovers in their ivy grotto, and I 
could not realize that a year had passed since I last saw them. 
The grand old trees that border the basin were linked together 
by graceful festoons of ivy. The only change I remarked was 
an iron fence around the basin of the fountain ; this officiated 
instead of the sergeant de ville in guarding the visitors from 
accident. Waited more than half an hour at the omnibus bu- 
reau before we could make connection with our correspond- 
ance. Omnibus after omnibus arrived and departed before our 
numeros were called, and we left a crowd which seemed rather 
to increase than to diminish. The numeros correspond to the 
number of days that have passed in the year, for instance, 
those of last Thursday bore the number 366, last year being 
a leap-year, and to-day they were numbered 2, it being the 
second day in the year. 

Two black-eyed Sisters of Charity in white, starched, 
winged bonnets and gray robes, were in the omnibus, one of 
them reminding me very much of Mrs. Brooks. One often 
meets on the Champs Elysees or in the parks and elsewhere 
little children dressed all in white or all in blue from head to 
foot, or in the two colors combined. Madame says these chil- 
dren are under the special protection of the Sainte Vierge, 
their mothers having made a vow to the Holy Virgin to dress 

[281] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

them in this manner until they are five or six years of age, 
blue and white being the colors of the 8ainte Vierge. This 
evening Francine told my fortune, which is not to be very 
brilliant. 

Sunday, January 3 

Dr. Robinson introduced a minister from England, who 
preached from Phil. 3 :17, 18, 19. His sermon was so long that 
several went out before he had finished, and the woman who 
assists in doing the honors of the chapel, who would be a "pew- 
opener," only the pews have no doors to open, popped her 
head in at the door twice with an expression of wonder and 
inquiry, as if she would say, ''What is going on here all this 
time?" He was one of the groaning and shouting sort of 
Methodists or Freewill Baptists, who say ''Oh-h-h" a great 
many times as if it came from the soles of their boots. He 
preached at least an hour and a half. Some boys who sat in 
the pew behind us became very uneasy, for which they were 
quite excusable. I heard one of them remark, when the 
preacher commenced anew as if he had just arrived at the be- 
ginning of his discourse, "Now he is blowing up — " 

In the course of his remarks he said that he was short- 
sighted. Probably that was the reason he paid no regard to 
the clock, which indicated half-past one, and was just in front 
of him. The services are usually finished by one or before. 
' ' Oh-h-h God of Glory ! Oh-h-h God of Jesus ! ' ' 

The services of the afternoon were in striking contrast. 
Dr. Robinson seemed more than ever dignified and impressive. 
It was communion Sabbath, and he administered the ordinance 
for the first time as the pastor of the church. Two members 
were added on profession of their faith, and five as transient 
members with letters from other churches. Dr. Robinson 



[282] 



i 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

seems to feel fully the responsibility of his position, and his 
remarks were impressive and affecting from their humble ear- 
nestness. This is the week of prayer, and there will be services 
in the chapel every day from two till three. 

It rained and blew when the service was over, but fortu- 
nately I had anticipated the storm and was provided with 
waterproof and umbrella. Company in the evening, but we 
retired early. 

Monday y January 4 

Fine day. Received cards from Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier. Wrote a dictee. Read French and analyzed. While 
I write, the bell of the little Sglise near here has just sounded 
the Angelus, that is the "Angelic Salutation," when all de- 
vout Catholics say the Ave Maria. It is sounded three times 
a day by all the church bells, at dawn, at noonday, and at 
twilight. 

In the evening Francine showed me some of her dessins, 
which she had finished and brought home. The first, a foot 
of the Yenus de Medici; second, an Amazon; third, a Venus 
de Medici ; they were studies and beautifully done. 

Tuesday, January 5 
Read, wrote, studied, and retired early. Stormy. 

Wednesday, January 6 

Attended the prayer-meeting. There was quite a large 
number present. Dr. Robinson was just going out as we 
entered. Rev. Mr. Hart of the chapel on the Rue Royale was 
speaking, and after him a young man spoke in reference to 
Sunday schools. The subjects for prayer for the day were 
families, schools and colleges. 

[283] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

After service bought some cartes de visit e at Amiot's, 
corner of Rue de Berri and Faubourg St. Honore. Called on 
the Griswolds, whom we found at home. Annie is very proud 
of her little sister, whom she entreated us to kiss, as we were 
about taking our departure without having performed this act. 

Monsieur Chevalier called while we were out. Louise said 
he looked very pale, that he had been ill and confined to his 
bed for ten days, and this was the first time he had been out. 

Thursday, January 7 

Warm and springlike. Madame Ducrot sighs over the 
weather, which she says is not natural at all at this season. 
The foliage on the honeysuckle is quite green in the garden, 
and the goldfish in the little pond are very lively. 

This morning Mademoiselle Francine and I busied our- 
selves in preparing our cartes de visite to send to our friends 
in Paris, according to the custom at the beginning of the 
New Year. As there are but two families with whom I am 
acquainted, mine were very soon arranged, but Francine had 
a great many to address. After this she arranged a box of 
bonbons for a poor girl who attends Monsieur Levasseur's 
Ecole de Bessin, and who would not be likely to receive such 
a gift from any other source. It was a very pretty little white 
box that Francine had received herself the year before, full 
of bonbons, and it looked quite fresh and new with the gay 
rose-colored ribbon about it. 

The Chapoteaus and Mademoiselle Alice Montagis spent 
the evening here. Mademoiselle Francine dined en ville at 
Judge Perkins's. She met Jeff Davis just descending the 
steps. He also had been making a call there. They are south- 
erners and secessionists and think Jefferson Davis a saint. 
Francine says Jeff Davis has but one eye, having lost the 

[284] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

other by reason of his sufferings while a prisoner after the 
war! 

Le petit Emile brought me in English the story I told 
him from memory a few evenings ago, of the fisherman and his 
wife who lived in a little pigsty. It ran as follows : 

' ' Once there was a fisherman and his wife which inhabited 
in a little pigsty, and they were very unhappy. A day that 
the fisherman fished, he took a little fish and this said, *I am 
too little for be eaten ; leave me go out. I will be grateful. ' 
The fisherman, astonished to hear him speaking, released him. 
When he came back at home he related at his wife that he had 
took a fish-fairy which could give to them the things whom 
we have want. 'Go quickly,' said the wife, 'and ask at this 
fish a little house with a garden around, because our pigsty is 
too indecent. ' The fisherman returned the bord of the sea and 
said, 'My wife sent me toward you because she find that the 
house is not large and she ask a large castle with a park and 
household ; ' and the sea puff itself, and the fairy said, ' Come 
back at home ; the wishes of your woman are exauced. ' And 
he came back, and he found the wife in a beautiful castle. 
But before two days, she was tired to her new situation and 
said at her husband, 'Come back towards the fish-fairy and 
say to him that I will be queen. ' And the fisherman come back, 
and at his approach the sea puffed up itself, and the fairy said 
' Come back at home ; your wife is queen. ' And fisherman re- 
turning, found his wife on a throne; but she received him 
very hard and she sent him at kitchen, but after two days 
1 said, ' The sun has met my window and has waked me. Say 
at fish-fairy that I will no more the sun. ' And fisherman 
I came back at bord of the sea, and at his approach it went out 
; to its bed, and a voice said, ' Come back at home ; thou shalt 
I find thy pigsty. ' " • 

[28,5] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Friday, January 8 

Stormy. Did not go out. Read, wrote, and studied. 
Mademoiselle Helene came home from her lessons dripping- 
wet. 

The admiring followers and imitators of Jean Jacques 
Rousseau, of whom the petit Emile is one, are not over- 
fastidious regarding their personal toilettes, the care of their 
hair and finger-nails apparently being a matter of indifference 
to them. One day while I was giving some instruction in 
English to this young person, his cousin Helene, observing the 
index finger with which he was pointing to some words he was 
trying to pronounce, remarked, ''I should think, petit Emile, 
you might show Mademoiselle Stanton the courtesy of making 
that one finger presentable before using it so conspicuously." 
His handsome face turned a deep crimson and the stray lock 
of hair drooped lower on his forehead; after this I noticed 
that his hands and nails were above criticism. 

Saturday, January 9 

Thick fog nearly all day; not a London "pea-soup," but 
like the fogs at home. Poor little Kit 's eyes are malade so she 
can neither study nor read, but she is always patient. 

We went out to walk, up the avenue towards the Arc, then 
turning into the broad walk, went to the Bois. It was sad and 
lonely there, no children, no carriages, scarcely a pedestrian; 
so after walking a little way down one of the avenues, we re- 
traced our steps, meeting here and there a sergeant de ville, 
who was performing his beat in a slow and meditative manner, 
muffled up to the chin in his cloak, his face half hidden under 
the pointed brim of his two-cornered hat. 

Traversed the Place d'Etoile and descended the 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Champs Ely sees, which was scarcely less deserted, as far as the 
Eond Point. Met some Chineses in their native dress and their 
pigtails. They are Ambassadors and lodge on the Champs 
Elysees. 

In the evening Mademoiselle Francine showed some 
studies of hands and a Venus de Medici from different points 
of view. Received a card of invitation to be present at the dis- 
tribution of prizes at Monsieur Levasseur's Ecole de Dessin, 
which will take place on Sunday, the 24th. Francine is one 
of the recipients. 

Sunday, January 10 

Dr. Robinson preached from the text found in 2 Cor. 4 :2. 
It was pointed, eloquent, and full of practical good sense. He 
spoke of civility as one of the first virtues to be observed in 
the pulpit. A pastor has no right to talk to his people as if 
they were thieves or murderers. His duty is to preach the 
truth plainly but civilly. Mentioned the duties of a pastor to 
his people and vice versa; spoke of behavior in church. It 
puts a minister off his train of thought when persons come in 
late; when persons whisper, they wound his feelings, when 
they would not for the world except from thoughtless inatten- 
tion. If you hear a dull sermon, you need to listen to it all 
the more to get the good out of it. If a fine one, it is well 
worth your while to listen, for it had cost thought and labor 
to prepare it. Among other things he remarked that Dr. 
Chalmers preached for four years, an unconverted man. In 
the afternoon he continued the history of his travels in Egypt, 
his subject being, '^ Memphis and the Pyramids." Spoke of 
the Nile, its immensity, the mystery in regard to its source, 
the interest which sacred history throws around it, his feelings 
when he found himself upon it. Perpetual Motion, the Elixir 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of Life, and the Source of the Nile are almost synonymous 
terms, and the search after them will be useless for many years 
to come, as it has been for many years past. As he was borne 
along on its waters, the sight of the bulrushes growing upon 
the banks called to his mind the history of the infant Moses. 
How easily he could be hidden amongst these tall reeds in 
his little ark! And how easily that little ark could be made 
from them ! Just beyond, that tall white building, — that 
might be the palace where the Princess came out with her 
maidens ; if not the very palace, the foundations might be the 
same ; or, at any rate, it was not far from here ; and that em- 
bankment just to the left, — the little sister Miriam could 
safely conceal herself behind that in her anxious watch over 
her brother. And listen ! Be a little imaginative ; put your 
hand to your ear; is not that the wail of the infant that is 
borne on the breeze? These rushes are long, slender and 
reed-like ; they grow to the height of thirteen or fourteen feet, 
and yet, slender as they are, — their largest circumference 
not exceeding that of one 's little finger, — when held in the 
hand in a horizontal position, they will sustain themselves, 
only bending a little ; but if the outside skin be cut or broken 
ever so slightly, even scarred by the hand of a child, the 
strength is gone. The least breeze will bend or break them and 
they are spoiled. This Old Testament promise, ^'A bruised 
reed shall he not break'' came to me with new force and 
beauty. His remarks upon the Pyramids were highly inter- 
esting. He recommended us to read "Our Inheritance in the 
Great Pyramid, ' ' should it ever fall into our hands, it being 
a work of great ingenuity and talent. It was written by Dr. 
Smith of Edinburgh, whose views upon the subject in question 
are worthy of consideration. 



MY LIFE m PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monday, January 11 

Attended the lecture of Monsieur Laboulaye. He has re- 
cently received a very brilliant offer from America to go there 
and deliver lectures; the terms being the payment of all his 
traveling and hotel bills, besides thirty-two pounds each for 
the lectures. Madmoiselle Francine predicts that he will not 
accept it, as he is not in need of money, and is too patriotic 
to leave the country at his time of life, and he will, she is 
sure, spend the remainder of his days in using his talents for 
the good and the glory of La France. 

Tuesday, January 12 

Was awakened, as usual, by the ringing of the Angelus. 
Rose as soon as it was light enough to see to dress. Took a 
diciee and read nearly two hours to Madame. Finished a work 
of one of the French poets, Alfred de Musset, containing 
stories entitled "Le Fils du Titien," ''Frederic et Berner- 
ette," ' ' Croiselles, " ''Margot," and others. Musset is one of 
the standard authors. His poems, however, are his best works. 

This evening Francine related various items of interest 
relative to her school. They have a new modele vivant, a per- 
fect Venus in form and "very modest." She gave an enter- 
taining and thrilling account, assisted by her sister Helene, 
of being at a concert last winter in a great crowd. Monsieur 
Levasseur chanced to be near them when they were first seated, 
and being alone came to sit with them. When they went out of 
the concert-room, the crowd was very pressing, and Monsieur 
Levasseur kept them from being pushed by holding his arm 
out. But in spite of his efforts a very rude man pushed 
against them so insolently that Monsieur Levasseur with one 
wave of his strong arm, threw him down. Juliette Chapoteau 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

was so frightened, thinking there was going to be a fight, that 
she turned pale and fainted away, a most inconvenient pro- 
ceeding under the circumstances. Monsieur Levasseur re- 
ceived her in his arms, and the crowd made way, announcing 
from one to another that a lady had fainted. Madame 
Chapoteau, who had been pushed considerably in advance, 
heard the news very calmly until she comprehended that the 
lady was her daughter, when she, too, turned pale and ex- 
claimed ' ' Oh ! c 'est ma fille ; c 'est ma fiUe ! Oh-h-h-h ! ' ' 

Wednesday, January 13 

Foggy and very cold! The little pond of goldfish is 
frozen over, but the fishes swim about under the ice, which 
has been punched with air-holes; otherwise they would die. 
Took a rapid walk down the avenue to get warmed up. In 
the evening Madame Chapoteau and Juliette were here. Mon- 
sieur Levasseur came up as a subject of discussion, Francine 
taking his part very enthusiastically against Madame Chapo- 
teau, who doesn't think him remarkably wonderful, even if 
he has been decorated. 

Thursday, January 14 

Lovely but cold. Helene at home. Madame Ducrot went 
out to market, and on returning said the Empress was walking 
on the Avenue de I'lmperatrice like any common person, in 
a short walking-dress of black silk. Had several callers, among 
them Mrs. Flint, whom Nora, the terrible infant, calls ^'bour- 
rique," and just as she was about taking her leave, Madame 
Ducrot 's brother, his wife, and two children came in. It was 
rather late, and was not very light in the salon; therefore 
Madame Lafouge, who did not know her nieces very well, 
mistook Ellie for Mademoiselle Francine, and shook her hand, 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

saying, ''How do you do, Francine? EUie told her slie was 
not the young lady in question, and we left the salon to the 
possession of the family party. Madame D^icrot showed her 
sister-in-law the prizes received by Francine at her school of 
''dessin," three medals, two of bronze and one of silver, in 
three little mahogany boxes into which they just fit. Unfortu- 
nately, Madame Lafouge misunderstood their significance, and 
mistaking them for little boxes of bonbons for her children, 
immediately gave the two larger to her two boys present, at 
the time telling them to go and kiss their aunt, and put the 
third in her pocket to take home to the baby! This sudden 
and unexpected distribution of her daughter's prizes took 
Madame Ducrot so by surprise, that before she had sufficiently 
recovered herself to explain the mistake, they had gone! 
Mademoiselle recounted the affair to me at the dinner-table, 
half -crying with vexation lest they should be lost before she 
would have time to send for them, and laughing in spite of 
herself. 

Friday, January 15 

A perfect April day, — showers and sunshine. Did not 
venture out. Madame Ducrot sits near me, sometimes with 
her embroidery, bemoaning the unnatural sort of weather for 
this season of the year which she says is ''tres mal pour la 
sante," and sometimes with the cocotte on her finger, she 
sings, and the bird listens, 

"J'ai du bon tabac dans ma tabatiere. 
J^ai du bon tabac; tu n'en auras pas." 

Saturday, January 16 
Read, wrote and studied. 
Went this afternoon to the banker's. It seemed as if the 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

four quarters of the globe were represented on the Champs 
Elysees; everybody was out on a promenade, the extremes of 
society, rich and poor, high and low, all the caricatures of 
humanity, all the pictures that illustrate the books of Dickens 
and Thackeray, seem to have congregated by common consent ; 
the Dodd Family, Peter Coddle, Peggoty, Tony Weller and 
Sam, the Vicar of Wakefield, the Emperor and Empress, Shy- 
lock, and Jeff Davis. 

Mademoiselle Helene came home to dejeuner in a high 
state of indignation against the Emperor and Empress, es- 
pecially the latter, in reference to whom she expressed the 
terrible wish that the next time she took a promenade on the 
Champs Elysees she would lose off her chignon in the face and 
eyes of all the world ! Some one remarked that such an acci- 
dent would be a calamity to all the promenaders in the Elysian 
Fields afterwards, as it would be likely to become ^'la mode" 
and be imitated by the followers of fashion, so that it would be 
difficult getting along ! It seems that as the royal couple were 
riding up the Champs Elysees on their way to the Bois, a well- 
dressed woman who seemed to be in much distress, rushed in 
among the crowd of horses and carriages, thereby endangering 
her life, holding a letter in her hand which she offered to the 
Emperor. He waved his hand as a signal for her to be taken 
away, and the Empress imitated this graceful movement; at 
which the poor woman burst into tears and was assisted to 
the sidewalk by a sergeant de ville, who offered her his arm. 
Mademoiselle Helene thinks that even if the Emperor was 
hard-hearted enough to refuse to receive the letter, the Em- 
press showed herself very unwomanly in following his example. 

This afternoon a scene of quite a different character was 
witnessed upon this same avenue, one of the actors being 
as famous, if less powerful, than their Majesties. It was the 

[292] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

meeting of Jeff Davis, who at present is dishonoring Paris by 
his presence, with some of his friends and admirers from 
the South, Mrs. Judge Perkins and her daughter, Evelyn 
Bailey. The young lady expressed herself as much shocked 
at being kissed by a gentleman in so public a place as the 
Champs Ely sees. The ''hero" has but one eye. They say the 
loss was occasioned by his sufferings and hardships during his 
imprisonment ! 

Purchased a bouquet to give to Madame Ducrot to- 
morrow, as it is the Fete of Saint Antoine, her patron, her 
name being Antoinette. She will be forty-seven years old in 
April. 

We went through the flower-market of the Madeleine, and 
after passing many houtiqiies where flowers were displayed in 
varied arrangements, we found a pretty bouquet of blue violets 
mixed with moss, with a white camellia in the center. Madame 
Chevalier called while we were out and left her card for the 
concierge to take up. Was informed this evening that Made- 
moiselle Francine's greatest fault is capriciousness. Her face 
and character are perfectly French. She is piquante and 
original, fond of dress, handsome, but a little vain of her 
beauty, a fine artist and a good musician. Her sister, who is 
a little more than a j^ear her senior, does not resemble her in 
the least, but is quite as much of a genius. If Francine is 
inclined to be a little coquettish in her dress, Helene is negli- 
gent to a fault. If she has no claim to beauty, she rejoices 
in her sister's, as if it were her own. If her sister excels as an 
artist, she, in her turn, takes the palm as a musician. Francine 
practices grace as an art; her sister is graceful because she 
cannot help it, and excels because it is her nature. Her face 
is plain at first sight, even almost ugly, but when she is ani- 
mated, she has so much expression that it is positively beauti- 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

f ul ! Her hands, white and dimpled, would serve as a model 
for a sculptor, and her touch at the piano is the poetry of 
motion. The crowning beauty in the character of the sisters 
in which, if possible, each excels the other, is her love for the 
other love. If one has a grief or a sorrow, it is the other who 
feels it most keenly. If one is unusually happy, it is the other 
that is the more gay. 

Sunday, January 17 

Did not attend service this morning. In the afternoon at- 
tended the Sunday School concert in spite of the rain. The chil- 
dren were addressed by Monsieur Sanglier, a missionary from 
St. Denis, who is a converted Catholic. He spoke in English, 
giving an account of his labors among the poor of St. Denis, 
and although he speaks the language very well for a foreigner, 
some of his expressions were amusing. For instance, he was 
telling a story of a girl who was brought to him, who, although 
naturally bright and intelligent, was deplorably ignorant of 
anything concerning Theology. He said, ' ' I asked her if she 
could tell who made the world and her! She took up her 
eyes for a moment, then put them down again and answered 
very gently, ' No, sir. ' I then asked her if she had ever heard 
of Jesus Christ ; and she took up her eyes again and then put 
them down and answered very gently, 'No, sir.' " The re- 
marks of a Mr. Sawyer, who spoke afterwards on ''Jesus is 
our Captain," were very long and tedious. He tried for at 
least three-quarters of an hour to stop but could not seem to 
find a good place, and finally he "wound up" by "running 
down. ' ' 

On returning, found Monsieur Levasseur and his family, 
who took dinner with Madame Ducrot. Monsieur Levasseur 
is a fine, distinguished-looking man. He has decidedly the air 

[294] 



i 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of an artist, and the head and neck of an Apollo. His eldest 
son is exceedingly plain, with rather an un-intellectually 
shaped head, and a baby-face. He sang in the evening for the 
entertainment of the company. His brother is a handsome little 
fellow of about ten years of age, who takes all the prizes given 
in his school. He has magnificent black eyes, and promises 
to be something wonderful. Francine, who repeats to us all 
the events that occur at her school, and reports to Monsietir 
Levasseur everything that happens at home, informed me that 
in recounting the dispute the other evening of ''Levasseur vs. 
Chapoteau" to her professor, he inquired, "Which side of the 
question was taken by "Mademoiselle Tres-Belle Nell." She 
told him his side, — ' ' there is nothing more untrue in this 
world!" and he said that was right, and he should have his 
hair cut especially for me, before coming to dine here Sunday. 

Monday, January 18 

Very cold. Started with Ellie for the "College de 
France" at a quarter before eleven. To-day is the occasion 
of the ' ' Ouverture des Chambres des Deputes, ' ' and the streets 
in the vicinity of the Rue de Rivoli were crowded with car- 
riages. Horsemen were stationed at the heads of all the 
streets communicating with the Rue de Rivoli, to prevent 
omnibuses and other public conveyances from passing along 
that street until after the ceremony was concluded. The street 
was devoted entirely to private carriages going to and from 
the Louvre. 

On returning from the lecture, we saw the paper-carriers 
out with the journals containing the speech of the Emperor, in 
less than an hour after its delivery ! On the Champs Elysees, 
bought a paper for ten sous. We were beset as usual by the 
woman with violets, who always drops down or starts up from 

[295] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

somewhere, when we arrive at a certain point on that avenue, 
and thrusts a bunch into our faces. She is not old enough to 
excite our pity, nor young enough to call forth our sympathy ; 
is tall, bony, gaunt and awkward, not at all a model of what 
a flower-girl should be, especially one who sells violets, and 
we always pass her in the most stoical manner. Besides, the 
flowers are not half so sweet and delicate as their little Ameri- 
can namesakes; having a bold, hardy air and a strong odor 
which is not agreeable. 

Tuesday f January 19 

Went again to the College de France to hear Monsieur 
Philarete Chasles. Madame Ducrot accompanied us as far as 
the Luxembourg. 

To-day a black-eyed lady, very nicely dressed, accom- 
panied by a little black-eyed girl of about four years, entered 
the omnibus. Soon after, another lady entered, with a nurse 
in a white cap and apron, who carried in her arms a little fair- 
haired girl, also about the same age, who, in her turn, held 
by the arm a large wax doll with staring eyes and a mouth 
expressive of conscious beauty. The owner of the doll took 
no notice of the toy, seeming to hold it mechanically. But 
the little black-eyed girl regarded with the most intense in- 
terest, first the doll, then its mistress, gradually pressing up 
nearer and nearer until she could stealthily touch the foot 
of the doll with her finger. I don't know but she might 
even have ventured so far in her admiration as to take it 
altogether, if just then they had not arrived at their destina- 
tion, and her mamma had not pulled her away. The little girl 
walked with her face backwards, regarding the doll until 
the last moment. They were succeeded by a lady and a 
pretty little boy dressed in a light-gray suit. He had a blue 

[296] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ribbon on his hat and wore a pair of blue gloves of the same 
shade. He carried a small cane and seemed quite a little 
man. There was not a vacant seat beside his mamma, and 
when she told him to take a seat Id-has, he seemed quite dis- 
tressed and wanted to sit in her lap, sajdng, ''Non, Maman," 
but when his mother said, "Non, mon enfant, tu es trop 
grand maintenant," he recovered his dignity immediately, 
and sat down, hardly daring to move at first or lift his eyes, 
finding himself surrounded by strangers. It is quite enter- 
taining, this traveling by omnibus, and I prefer it to being 
shut up in a cab, where there is so much less variety. 

Monsieur Chasles is a perfect type of Frenchman; has 
iron-gray beard and moustache, the latter waxed into two 
very long thorns on each side. He talks with his eyes tightly 
closed, as if his notes were written internally; shrugs his 
shoulders to perfection, and pantomimes most expressively. 
He said the most flattering things of America, the North, for 
he seemed to think it was that part that gave character to 
all the rest. His lectures begin at three o'clock, but to-day 
he was five minutes behind time. It was rather cold, and his 
audience had waited very patiently and quietly for three- 
quarters of an hour, as of course they should do if they chose 
to assemble so long before the time, but the moment the 
hands of the clock in the hall pointed to three, the students 
and others began stamping and making a great noise. In 
the midst of it. Monsieur Chasles entered and took his chair 
on the platform, having first made an extraordinarily low bow, 
:and during the first fifteen minutes kept his auditors in a 
jroar of laughter at his impromptu remarks. He pretended 
that he took all the stamping and noise as a personal compli- 
ment to his popularity, and cited the names of several great 
imen who had before him been flattered and applauded by the 

[297] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

public. He was aware that such applause was dangerous, 
that when one seemed to stand on the pinnacle of public 
favor, he had reason to feel the most uncertain of his posi- 
tion, and he himself was av/are that when the thunders of 
applause rang the loudest, there was danger that it would 
reach its climax in a coup de sifflet. 

In the evening Francine showed us her engravings, 
copies from the paintings at the Louvre, which she receives-^ 
every month as a present from her sister. I liked best the 
two entitled ^'L'Arraeheur des Dents" and Mars et Venus." 

Wednesday, January 20 j 

Mademoiselle Francine is at home to-day with a weak j 
eye. Went out to walk, and on my v/ay home called on! 
Madame Chevalier. She was out, but Monsieur was at home. ! 
He has been ill, but is convalescent at present. In the 
evening, Helene and Francine having gone out, with the i 
''petit Emile," and Ellie having gone to bed, Madame Ducrot ' 
and I were left alone. The physician says that the petit \ 
Emile cannot live long. It is nearly time for drafting in 
Paris, or, as it is called, ^'iirer an sort/^ and as Emile is twenty 
years of age, he is liable to be drafted, if his health will 
permit him to serve in the army. They do not wish him to;| 
know the opinion of the physician, who wisely withheld it ; 
from him, lest it might shorten his days. That he may re- 
main in ignorance of his condition, it will be necessary that 
he either run his chance of being drafted or pay 1500 francs 
beforehand to the Insurance Company, who, in case he is 
drafted, will provide a substitute and take all the responsi- 
bility. If, after paying the monc}^, he is not drafted, or 
should die, so much the better for the company. If, on the 
contrary, he runs the risk and is drafted, he will be obliged 

[298] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to go or to pay from 2500 to 3000 francs, or perhaps more, 
for a substitute for whom he must be responsible in case of 
desertion. 

Madame told me of some things in her religion that did 
not please her; the frequent calls for money, the convents, 
and the celibacy of the priests. She says some time ago 
there was a convention of priests to take a vote that should 
decide whether they could marry. All the old priests voted 
for it, and the young ones against it, and the latter, being 
in the majority, ruled. Madame Ducrot seems to be rather 
an independent thinker for a Roman Catholic, as regards 
her religion, other matters as well. She reads books not- 
withstanding they are prohibited, and one day said, "You 
don't think Mademoiselle Stanton, that I believe the 
Eucharist is the real body of Christ, do you?" I told her 
that I supposed it was a fundamental belief in the Catholic 
religion, which separated it widely from Protestantism as 
protestants believe it is simply a symbol. "That is what I 
believe ' ' responded Madame Ducrot. ' ' Well Madame Ducrot 
I think you are a Protestant;" such an idea seemed rather 
startling to her and she exclaimed — "Oh, no! I am not a 
Protestant. I am a Catholic." Very well Madame then I am 
a Catholic ! I think it would be a good thing for you to go 
to your priest about it, for I do not believe he would think 
you a Catholic. 

Thursday, January 21 

Went to walk with Mademoiselle Helene this morning a 
iittle after nine o'clock. The air was sharp and cold and the 
cog so thick that the sun looked like a little ball of red fire 
tianging over the city, but in spite of the fog it was exhila- 
rating, and we ran and scampered like two children, pitied 

[299] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

all who were so unconseiously unhappy as to be asleep in 
their beds, especially whoever occupied the chamber with 
the rose curtains that were yet closely drawn on the Champs 
Elysees. On the Faubourg St. Honore and the Rue de Rivoli, 
bought some photographs by ''Goupil" of pictures at the 
Louvre. 

Paris, in the morning, is like a house being put in order. 
The streets have to be swept and arranged for the after- 
noon, and everybody has an air of busy distraction. 

To-day is the anniversary of the death of Louis XVI. 
The Emperor and Empress for this reason withdrew from 
the ball at the Tuileries five minutes before midnight. 

At dinner I deliberately called Francine a ''stupid ass," 
having said ^^hourrique" instead of ^'horreau,'' much to the 
amusement of the company, who laid down their forks and in- 
dulged in a paroxysm of laughter. Helene had been suffer- 
ing with tooth-ache, and the dentist had put a small piece of 
india-rubber between her teeth to obviate the necessity of 
having to cut and file them away before filling them. She 
had endured the pain for two days, declaring at times that 
she would not bear it any longer. At such times her sister 
tried to encourage her, by promising that if she would bear 
it as long as the dentist thought it was necessary, she would 
give her a present. This evening Helene was complaining, 
when Francine in a manner quite solemn said, ''Listen, 
Helene, listen ! You are to bear that, and I shall give you a 
present ; and you are to bear it without complaining ; and what 
is more, listen well, you are not only not to complain, but when 
I ask you if it hurts you, you are to tell me ' No ' ! " It was at 
this point that I attempted to call her a hourreau and made the 
unfortunate mistake. This reminds me of a little anecdote 
that Helene told me the other day of one of her American 

[300] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

acquaintances, a Mrs. Stewart, who was presented to the 
Empress by Gen. Dix, and to the gracious inquiries of her 
Majesty, -'Comhien, Madame, y a-t-il de temps que vous-etes 
a Paris?" responded ^^Je suis une ane/* intending to say, ^^Je 
Sim id depuis une annee." 

Friday, Jamuary 22 

Cold and clear. Eead with Helene a poem entitled "Les 
Merites des Femmes ' ' by Jean Baptiste Gabriel Legouve. This 
afternoon was left mattresse de la maison. Received five calls 
during Madame 's absence; three English ladies called to in- 
quire about obtaining board here. I set forth the beauties of 
the establishment to the best of my ability. They expressed 
their gratitude in humble terms and departed, much to my joy, 
as I feared the letter I was writing would be too late for the 
mail. The milkman, who is deaf, next called at the kitchen 
door, and I hunted about for some time in Louise's domain 
to find a bowl. After him, came the celebrated Cure de Toulon, 
who is the Confessor of the Empress and has been decorated. 
I responded, ^^ Madame est sortie" to his question, "Est-ce 
que Madame Ducrot est chez ellef" He expressed his dis- 
appointment and presented his card, having first taken the 
precaution to turn down one end of it to show that he had 
left it in person, instead of sending it by a servant. 

Saturday, January 23 

Very cold. Read, wrote, and studied. Franeine is out of 
sorts this evening, doesn't love anybody, not even the cocotte. 
Talked about the Quakers and the Shakers. Franeine admires 
the latter sect and thinks she would like to join them. Gave 
a lesson in English this evening to Helene and the petit Emile. 

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My life in PARIS fifty YllARS AGO 

Sunday, January 24 

Bright and cold. The subject of Dr. Eobinson's sermon 
was a continuation of his text of last Sunday morning, Acts 
7:59, "And they stoned Stephen, calling upon God and say- 
ing, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit." This is the verse upon 
which there have been so many theological discussions. He 
compared the prayer of Stephen to the prayer of Christ. The 
prayer of Stephen turned a Saul into a Paul. 

Dr. Robinson mentioned the fact that he was about to send 
the report of the establishment of the church on the Rue de 
Berri with a list of its members, which at present number 
sixty, to be printed, and he suggested that as it will not be 
ready till after the first of next month, any who had the inten- 
tion of becoming a member would do well to present himself 
at the next communion, that the names also might appear 
with the others in this first list. In the afternoon a stranger 
preached who sacrificed his remarks to the correct pronunci- 
ation of his words. 

Monsieur Emile Lafouge spent the evening at Madame 
Ducrot's, and Mademoiselle Francine, who is at present much 
exercised on the point of "dress" for the coming distribution 
of prizes, which will occur one week from to-day, dressed her- 
self in the costume she intends to wear, that we might see how 
beautiful she would look ; the petit Emile Chapoteau officiating 
as femme de chamhre. She is a queer contradiction, a combi- 
nation of childishness and dignity, vanity and good sense. The 
more I see of her the less I feel acquainted with her. 

Monday, January 25 

Was a few minutes later than usual at the lecture of M. 
Laboulaye, but although there nearly half an hour before the 
time, I found the hall filled to overflowing. We were obliged 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to sit just at the entrance in the antechamber where we could 
hear pretty well, but could not keep the thread of the dis- 
course. The antechamber was filled as far out as it was possi- 
ble to hear his voice, those standing who were not fortunate 
enough to find chairs. 

Monsieur Legouve, the son of the poet, lectures here occa- 
sionally and draws larger audiences than even M. Laboulaye. 

The air was bright and invigorating, so that we were not 
tired on arriving home, although we walked rapidly for an 
hour and ten minutes. The Champs Ely sees was full of dust 
and people. It always suggests a fairy-land with its myriads 
of children, so gaily dressed and skipping about so full of life. 
Upon our arrival we found that Louise had cafe and toast 
ready, and we took it from the little round table in the salon. 
The Chapoteaus spent the evening here and brought with them 
a niece of Madame Chapoteau, who has just buried her mother. 
Her sisters are nuns, and she, the youngest, is alone with her 
father and three little brothers. Her father is not kind to her, 
and, although very wealthy, she is not happy. She wishes to 
become a nun so that she may be with her sisters, poor child ! 

Tuesday, January 26 

There is a proverb in France in reference to the weather 
to-day : 

*'St. Paul la claire journee 
Nous annonce une bonne ann^e ; 
S'il fait des brouillards, 
Mortalite de toutes parts ; 
S'il pleut ou s'il neige, 
Cherte sur la terre ; 
S 'il fait du vent, 
Nous aurons la guerre." 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

It is freezing cold, but bright and clear. Had to break the 
ice in my washbowl before I could take a bath. Sat by the 
fire but could not keep warm. Madame Ducrot has been sing- 
ing for our edification some of the popular songs of the 
country ; one, ' ' Le Juif Errant, ' ' three verses of which I will 
copy, as they contain the whole legend : 

"Un jour pres du Calvaire 
Jesus portant sa croix 
Me dit tout de bon air, 
Passant devant chez-moi 
'Veux-tu bien, mon ami 
Que je repose ici?' 

''Moi, brutal et rebel, 
Je lui dis sans raison, 
'Ote-toi, criminel, 
De devant ma maison ! 
Avance et marche done ! 
Car tu me f ais affront. ' 

''Jesus, la bonte meme. 
Me dit en soupirant, 
'Tu marcheras toi-meme. 
Pendant plus de mille ans; 
Le dernier jugement 
Finira ton tourment. ' ' ' 

Wednesday, January 27 

Freezing cold. In the evening we had a dinner party of 
demoiselles only, Madame Ducrot going to dine with Madame 
Chapoteau. In addition to our own number were Mesdemoi- 

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I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

selles Pigot, Juliette Chapoteau, and her cousin, Emilie Rochu. 
Helene tried to induce her mother to allow her to invite the 
petit Emile, assuring her she would go to the enfers if she was 
so unkind as to refuse, but without avail. Madame was un- 
flinching in her denial. The dinner-party passed off gaily; 
Helene, making the most of her moustache for the occasion, 
offered me her arm to conduct me to the salle-a-manger, while 
the others, following our example, came in "two by two in 
couples, etc." Disposed of a bottle of rare wine sent by 
Madame Pigot in honor of the occasion. Mademoiselle Fran- 
cine was possessed with a mania for proposing the health of 
her parrain. I came very near inquiring of her if he was the 
gentleman she had spoken of as having the same shape as a 
tumbler; but she made eyes at me in time for me to abridge 
my remarks before any mischief was done, and informed me 
afterwards that he is a near relative of Mademoiselle Rochu. 
After the sweet wine had been passed around, 
Mademoiselle Helene, in her capacity of gentleman, called 
for cigars, when Louise, who is not behindhand in wit and 
originality, immediately, and to the surprise of the company, 
set a little plate full, of what seemed to be the articles de- 
manded, in front of Helene. Upon a closer inspection, they 
proved to be the ends of salisfy, which were most excellent 
counterfeits of cigars. The evening passed in charades which 
were remarkably fine, considering that they were impromptu. 
The most distinguished actors were Mademoiselle Helene 
and Monsieur Henri Pigot, for the gentlemen had made 
their appearance after dinner. Both showed really remark- 
able talents. One of the words was Militariment. 

Thursday, January 28 

The weather has moderated. Walked down the Avenue 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Josephine with Ellie, who took the omnibus Chateau d'Eau 
to call for Francine at the Ecole de Dessin. The petit Emile 
dined here. Helene was much distressed that her mother had 
not ordered a chicken or something else besides beef, which 
he does not eat. She assured her mother that she was more 
convinced than ever that she would go to the enfers. Emile 
is a great favorites of Helene 's, but her mother does not like 
him much. He is ill now, and Francine is gracious, as she! 
fears he will not live long. 

Later in the evening, we were joined by Madame 
Chapoteau arid Juliette. Helene received a call from ai 
young lady whom she has recommended to some English i 
ladies for a governess. She came to express her thanks, j 
This young lady is an orphan with no near relatives ; she has a ; 
fine education and is a superior pianist, but is very poor,j 
having been left with only a small fortune which is now all | 
gone. She has been here before, and my sympathies were] 
excited in her behalf, as she was trying to get pupils but| 
had had no success. She had been obliged to sell some' 
articles of furniture left her by her parents, in order to raise j 
money to pay her board. ! 

After her departure, Helene made some tea for the petit i 
Emile, and while he was drinking it, sitting on a little | 
tabouret at her feet, she watched him with sad eyes. Pres- 
ently she turned to me and said in English, that the others | 
might not understand ''I am very unhappy." I asked 
''Why?" and she said, "Because Emile will die," and after i 
a moment added, ''I love him better than he loves me; tell| 
him so. " I did as I was bade. At first he did not understand. . 
and repeated the words very slowly, and when he at last 
comprehended, he smiled and said, ''0 petite tante!" theil 
name by which he always addresses her. 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Friday, January 29 

Rainy in the morning. Mild and sunny in the afternoon. 
Helene informed me at breakfast that we had no word in our 
language that expressed the idea of the French word, '^Patrie/* 
as I was bemoaning the want of a word to express ''home." 
Francine breakfasted at home and amused herself and the 
rest of us by sporting several English words. With spoon 
in hand ready to officiate, she looked up inquiringly and said, 
''Tatoes, mees? Tatoes, dear?" The Cocotte delights to 
get into the dining-room at meal time. He climbs up on 
Madame Ducrot's dress and perches himself on her back- 
hair comb and overlooks the table. If Louise is not visible 
he calls "Louise! Louise!" as he seems to think her place 
is in the dining-room, waiting on us while at table. 

Saturday, January 30 

Pere Bouton called this morning in response to a letter 
written him by Helene, in reference to some poor people who 
are suffering with cold this winter. Madame Ducrot re- 
ceived his visit and after his departure pronounced him a 
havard. Mademoiselle Michel called and gave me a carte 
.d' entree for two to the concert of Monsieur Eugene Ketterer, 
the celebrated musical composer and pianist, next Saturday 
evening. Monsieur Ketterer receives pupils at twenty-five 
francs the lesson. Juliette has had a present of a beautiful 
basket-satchel lined with blue satin, to hold her squares of 
embroidery, and she is delighted with it. 

Sunday, January 31 

A superb day, so warm that a fire would be superfluous. 
Dr. Robinson continued his discourse upon Stephen, the 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

martyr. Saw Mr. Griswold at the close of the service, who 
informed us there was a package at his house for us. He 
came from London last night in company with Dr. Robinson 
and had a very rough passage.. Dr. Robinson gave us in the 
afternoon a view of Egypt from the top of the great Pyra- 
mid, where he left us in his last discourse on this subject. 
Egypt from this point is like a narrow green ribbon designed 
on a sand-plain. His text was from Hosea 9 :6 "Egypt shall 
gather them up; Memphis shall bury them." Memphis is a 
great burying-ground. History was born on the night when 
the Israelites escaped from Egyptian rule. The people are idle, 
lazy, and degraded. There is no inducement for them to be 
anything else, for there is no law, no justice. Should they be 
thrifty and lay up money it would do them no good ; it would 
only increase their taxes. The government claims nine-tenths 
of all they possess, and the remaining tenth is not much ; be- 
sides, an Egyptian with money is sure to be arrested on suspi- 
cion, and falsely accused if a just accusation is wanting. They 
are little better than slaves. He has seen an English boy strike 
with a whip a grown man, who annoyed him by holding out 
his hand for ''.bucksheesh, " and the Egyptian would slink 
off like a dog without offering the least resistance. After an il 
adieu to the Sphinx, he left Egypt with no regrets. There ' 
was in his heart a feeling of sadness and desolation during 
all his stay there, and he could not throw it off. The songs \ 
of the country seem like wails of grief; it is impossible to ' 
catch the air; the minor tones occur much more frequently 
than in our music. The only national hymn, written in a 
minor key, is the "Welcome to the Sultan" — a wail from 
beginning to end. It was rejected from an opera into which 
it had been introduced by a great composer, because it was 
too sad. In spite of its mutilated appearance, the Sphinx still 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

inspires us with a feeling of, — not exactly reverence; but 
there is something in the human mind that cannot regard 
with a feeling of indifference what has once been worshipped 
as a god by a human soul. One is lost in contemplating it 
solely as a relic of antiquity. The Jews were accustomed to 
allude to ''the days of our Father, Abraham" as a period of 
most remote antiquity, and they took up stones to cast at 
our Saviour because he said ''Before Abraham was I AM," 
and this god was made by hands that had mouldered to dust 
long before Abraham was heard of! 

On returning home we found the family just arrived 
from witnessing the Prize Distribution at Monsieur 
Levasseur's Ecole de Dessin. Francine was agreeably sur- 
prised just before the close of the exercises at receiving the 
prize of honor ! The prizes are given by the ' ' Ville de Paris, ' ' 
and one of the mayors of the city officiates at the awarding. 

Monday, Febniary 1 

Very windy. After an early breakfast we started for 
the College de France. The wind blew furiously as we 
walked down the Champs Elysees, and just as we reached the 
Rue de Berri it began to rain; when we arrived at the 
omnibus-station, Mademoiselle Francine 's courage failed 
her, and she decided to return home. I concluded that such a 
disagreeable experience of weather demanded some compen- 
sation; so we left poor Francine in the office, smoothing her 
ruffled plumage, and continued on our way rejoicing, as the 
rain ceased and the sun came out before we left the omnibus. 
Arrived before noon and found a professor in the chair. He 
finished in about five minutes, and we were fortunate enough 
to find our favorite seats. The lecture-room was crowded 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

as usual. When Monsieur Laboulaye entered, he was re- 
ceived with cheers, but they were immediately succeeded by 
hisses and audible whispers of ''Salle numero 7 !" Monsieur 
said there were two very strong reasons why ''salle numero 
7'' was not used. First, it was very sourde and difficult for 
the professor to speak in, and second, there was no entree 
especially for ladies. These reasons seemed to be satisfac-; 
tory, and the lecture went on uninterrupted excepting now' 
and then by the usual manifestations of applause. Monsieur' 
Laboulaye seems to ignore the presence of the ladies, always: 
opening his remarks with "Messieurs," unless to indulge inj 
a little sarcasm at their expense, at v/hich time he accom-i 
panics his remarks with a glance of the eye, that thej 
appreciation may fall in the right direction. We decided not 
to walk home, as it was too windy. Louise had gone to Mr.| 
Griswold's for our package and Madame Ducrot prepared ouri 
lunch for us. j 

Tuesday, February 2 I 

Pere Bouton called again and said several persons were] 
killed yesterday by things blowing on them; workmen were,; 
blown from the stagings of buildings where they were em-! 
ployed, and some large trees were broken off. This afternoon | 
Mrs. Grleason called; said she indulged in a good cry yester- 
day on my account. She thought I came myself in a carriage] 
for the package and would not come in. She feared I must 
be offended at something but did not know what it could be.; 
She did not know about the package being given to Louise,! 
until she had gone, and their servant-girl, who is very stupid, 
gave her the card I had given to Louise with Mr. Griswold's! 
address on one side, that she might have no difficulty in finding; 
the way. I had not intended to have her leave the card, 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

When Mrs. Gleason took her leave, I put on my hat to accom- 
pany her, as the day was very beautiful, but met Madame 
Chevalier as we were walking up the avenue, coming to call 
on me. I was about to return, but she suggested that we all 
walk along together. So we accompanied Mrs. Gleason as 
far as the Flace des Ternes on the Ave. Wagram, and then 
Madame Chevalier returned with me, but said she must not 
go in as it was more than half-past five, and she had a new 
girl, Anna having become so very impudent that she was 
obliged to send her away. I was so ^'hung on" to Madame 
that I retraced my steps and walked with her as far as the 
turn of the avenue, where we finally said good-bye. 

Wednesdw}/, February 3 

Helene came home laden with compliments for her sister, 
in reference to the grace with which she conducted herself at 
the prize distribution. Judge ''Perkings" says she was like 
a '^cygne parmi les oies." They say the Judge is "fou," and 
that he admires and compliments Francine, for the express 
purpose of making Evelyn Bailey feel bad. He and Made- 
moiselle Helene are always saying sharp things and do not like 
each other very well. Helene always takes sides against him 
when a difference of opinion occurs in company, especially 
when he appeals to her. To-day when she went to give Miss 
Eva her lesson, he congratulated her upon having a sister so 
:alented, graceful and beautiful, all of which was very agree- 
ible to Helene. In the course of his remarks, he asked what 
*vas the difference in their ages; to which Helene answered, 
. ' Treize mois. ' ' Y/hen he remarked, ' ' Treize ans ! I did not 
i-hink there was so much difference as that," and Helene is 
lot quite certain whether he really misunderstood her or 

[311] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

whether he intended to be malicious and retaliate for some 
of her impertinences. 

Wrote all day. Practised gymnastics in the evening with 
Helene and Francine. 

Thursday, February 4 

Fine day. Went out with Ellie to buy trimmings for her 
dress. With dii^culty succeeded in making our purchases. 
Have received an invitation to a soiree at the Pigoton's next 
Thursday. Gymnastics in the evening. 

Friday, February 5 

Lovely day. At dejeuner, Madame Ducrot told us of some 
of her adventures with a little bourrique that her husband 
gave her. The animal as a general thing was well-behaved, 
but once or twice she was brought to grief by reason of its 
obstinacy. She was living in the country at this time and 
was in the habit of riding to church on the back of the little 
beast, as the distance was too long to walk. She always rode 
past the church door to the stable, where the cure's servant 
stood ready to ' ' put up ' ' the animal during the service, always 
giving it a piece of bread. One Sunday she started for Mass 
as usual, her servant Jeannette accompanying her on foot. 
She was late ; the Mass had commenced. As she attempted to 
pass the door of the church which was open, the little beast 
spied the servant of the cure who was standing in the aisle 
listening to the service, and in spite of Jeannette 's efforts 
behind pulling him back, and her own to dismount, the animal 
persisted in entering the church and running up the aisle, 
much to the amusement of the assembled company and her own 
chagrin, to obtain the accustomed morsel of bread ! 

At another time, she was accompanied by her husband 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

on horseback and a man-servant, when they came to a small 
stream which it was necessary for them to ford. The hourrique 
was unwilling to go on and paused at the brink, but by dint 
of coaxing, driving, and pushing, he was at last induced to 
proceed. On arriving in the middle of the stream, as if in 
deliberate retaliation, he threw her into the water, where she 
was completely soaked up to the chin. 

After dejeuner went out for a promenade. "We noticed 
on the Champs Elysees that a panic had seized the prome- 
naders. Some of the gentlemen suddenly ran to the edge of 
the sidewalk and took off their hats. The carriage of the 
Emperor containing the Emperor, the Empress and two gentle- 
men, was the occasion of the sudden panic. The Empress was 
gently waving in the breeze in graceful undulations, first 
towards one side of the carriage and then towards the other. 

' ' Polichinelle " was in "full blast," there being five in 
different stages of progression just below the Rond Point, per- 
forming before as many different audiences. Called at Mad- 
ame Chevalier's on our return home to engage the services of 
Angelina for next Tuesday. 

Saturday, February 6 

The weather-wises say that the winter is over, and we shall 
have no more cold weather this season. It is warm and spring- 
like; the birds sing, and the grass is fresh and green; the 
fishes in the garden have been released from their ice-house 
and swim about gaily; the trees on this avenue are in blos- 
som, and I hope the weather-wises are right. 

Attended this evening the concert, or rather, the "Audi- 
tion" given by Monsieur Eugene Ketterer in the salons of 
Monsieurs Pleyel, Wouff & Co., Rue Rochechouart, 22, in com- 
pany with Monsieur Henri Pigot, and his sister Marie, Helene 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Ducrot, and Juliette Chapoteau. Franeine dined at Judge 
Perkins' and went with the family. The salons were bril- 
liantly lighted. An elegant chandelier with gas-burners re- 
sembling wax candles hung from the center of the ceiling, 
while small candelabra were arranged on both sides along the 
wall. 

The instrumental pieces were compositions of Monsieur 
Ketterer, sometimes performed by himself and sometimes by 
his pupils. One of his pupils, Mademoiselle Cantin, whose 
name was on the program, did not appear, having burned her 
fingers, and Monsieur Jules Lefort was suffering from a cold, 
but in spite of it ''brought down the house" with his fine voice 
and graceful rendering of three songs. Mademoiselle Gaillard 
performed two pieces on the piano with much taste and skill. 
She was dressed in white lace, a long skirt puffed from top 
to bottom and an overskirt looped up and trimmed with a 
spray of green leaves and white chrysanthemums. Her hair, 
which was dark, was simply dressed, and she had in it several 
white chrysanthemums on the left side, which might have been 
taken from the bouquet she held, which she placed on the 
piano, and seated herself at the keyboard. It was an exceed- 
ingly graceful scene, truly French, the concert-room with its 
crimson-cushioned seats, the gay toilettes of the ladies, the 
brilliant lights of the chandelier, under the full blaze of which 
was seated the young performer enveloped in a cloud of white, 
her fingers gliding over the ivory keys. She arose amid the 
enthusiastic cheers of the listeners, which she acknowledged 
with a slight inclination of the head, accompanied by a smile 
and a blush, which made her look doubly charming. She was 
conducted from the stage by Monsieur Ketterer, who had been 
sitting beside her during the performance. 

After various instrumental pieces, duets on the piano and 



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I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

violin, Madame Anna Fabre appeared and sang, ''Ce que je 
suis sans toi'' in a piquant and sprightly manner. She was 
dressed in black silk, decollete, with a black-lace corsage. She 
had a bouquet of scarlet flowers with ''greens," flowers to 
match in her hair, a scarlet ribbon at her throat and a scarlet 
sash tied behind. 

Monsieur Oliveres, a Spaniard, sang two songs in his 
native language, and the entertainment closed with a brilliant 
''Caprice Militaire" by Monsieur Ketterer. 

We talk at home of French politeness as a model to be 
imitated, but I think, after all, the Americans excel, and as 
far as my observation has gone, it is at home that the ladies 
are treated, as a class, with the most deference and respect. 
While waiting for the concert to begin, I was startled to hear 
a man, dressed like a gentleman, say in a rough, rude voice, 
"Par exemple, Madame." On looking around, I witnessed an 
impromptu scene which reflected no credit as far as politeness 
is concerned upon any of the actors. It seemed that two 
young ladies had been occupying seats which they vacated for 
a few moments, and during their absence one of the seats was 
taken by a lady who was not probably aware that it was en- 
gaged. The young ladies returning and finding but one place, 
asked the woman to get up. She refused. A man in the same 
row of seats took the part of the young ladies, and it was his 
exclamation that had attracted my attention. After refusing 
for some time to give up the seat, the woman, finding herself 
the center of quite a little audience that had collected, sud- 
denly rose, and in high indignation, went oat of the hall. 
The young lady, who had been standing, seated herself with 
an air of triumphant satisfaction, and the gentlemanly-dressed 
man became tranquil. If such a circumstance had happened 
at home, I think the gentleman, instead of ordering a lady 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

out of her seat, would have offered her his own, and the young 
lady would have sought another place rather than to make 
herself so conspicuous in demanding even what rightly be- 
longed to her; and no lady would have insisted upon retaining 
a seat under such circumstances. i 

We were seated in the front row too near the grand piano; 
for the music to be perfectly agreeable, but had an excellent' 
place for seeing. Mademoiselle Francine came in, followed by! 
Evelyn Bailey and her mother, and soon after they were' 
seated, Judge Perkins arrived. The rest of our party, that is' 
to say, Helene, Juliette, and Marie Pigot changed their places i 
for seats on the platform with them ; but I preferred to remain I 
where I was, and as Monsieur Henri was of the same mind, 
we sat together and had a pleasant conversation before the 
music began. | 

Upon leaving the concert-hall, Miss Bailey was by somei 
accident of vision separated from her mother and the Judge;) 
so when we arrived at the cab-stand, they were nowhere to bej 
seen. Miss Bailey expressed her opinion that papa had done! 
it purposely, though she exhibited no uneasiness at being left.j 
"When we returned to search for them, it was decided that' 
Helene and Juliette should take a carriage and accompany! 
Miss Bailey home, and the rest of us, Monsieur and Made-j 
moiselle Pigot, Francine and I, should take another and: 
go directly home. We arrived safely. Francine and I werej 
deposited on the Rue de Ville Juste where we rang the bell 
at the '^grande porte'' many times and waited at least ten 
minutes before the concierge opened it for us. When we had: 
traversed about half the garden, we heard another ring and 
the voices of Helene and Juliette. They found Judge and: 
Mrs. Perkins just descending from their carriage when they| 
arrived at Miss Bailey's residence, Mrs. Perkins in tears with: 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

fright at having to return without her daughter, for the Judge 
was very unkind, and when she had objected to getting into 
the carriage until Evelyn was found, said, ''Very well, you 
may stay and hunt alone, but I shall go home ! " It was after 
one 'clock when I retired with mat a la tete and mal au coeur 
with weariness and excitement. 

Sunday, February 7 

Superb day. The commencement of the Carnival. Awoke 
with a sick headache, but went to church in spite of it. The 
avenues were filled with people who had assembled to witness 
the procession of the Boeufs Gras. On our return the pro- 
cession was just resting on the Champs Elysees. In a car- 
riage trimmed in brilliant colors was the center of attraction 
in the shape of a fat ox. This was followed by another, filled 
with musicians in carnival costume. Met several harlequins 
in masks promenading at large, and the street was crowded 
with soldiers and various vehicles containing men, women, and 
children "bedecked and bedizened" in fancy costumes, the 
most showy that could be invented. We were detained several 
minutes by the crowd, but after a while the procession con- 
tinued to move, the crowd became less dense, and we made the 
best of our way home. 

Communion in the afternoon. The services were exceed- 
ingly interesting. Dr. Robinson seemed almost inspired. He 
always has an illustration at hand right to the point. Ex- 
plained the word "Communion" by this illustration: He had 
seen a mother and child, both intelligent, sitting together in 
the twilight, or by the firelight, each happy in the society of 
tke other, neither speaking a word, each feeling the presence 
of the other and enjoying it silently. They were communing 
with each other. Sir Walter Scott was accustomed to speak 

[317] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of the moments in the morning on awaking, when his mind 
was free from the more profound thought that came with the 
day, as his ' ' simmering season. ' ' The word ' ' comfort ' ' can be 
translated into no other language. After service, stopped to 
speak with Mrs. Gleason and Mr. Griswold. 

Manday, February 8 

Windy. Did not go out. The Abbe Simon dined here. 
It is his farewell visit before leaving for his missionary labors 
in Cochin China. He had on his long black frock, the livery 
of his office, and before sitting down to the table crossed him- 
self with much fervor, repeating the ceremony on rising. 

"While we were at table, Ju^liette and the petit Emile came 
in. The Abbe Simon gave to his friends some of his photo- 
graphs which had been recently taken. To-day there are two 
hoeufs gras paraded about the streets, it being the second 
day of the carnival. 

Tuesday, February 9 

Very windy. The hoeufs gras, which are increased to 
the number of three, are received at one o'clock at the Palace 
of the Tuileries ; this is the crowning ceremony. To-morrow 
they are to be killed. In the killing of animals in France, a 
prize is awarded to the one who can kill them by causing the 
least suffering. 

We are all invited to a soiree at the Pigots' this evening. 
The petit Emile has bought a new suit of clothes for the occa- 
sion, even to a pair of kid gloves, for the Pigots are very cere- 
monious. He came in for a few minutes quite metamorphosed 
in his blue cravat and "new fixin's" and looked, if possible, 
handsomer than usual. ''Angelina," Madame Chevalier's 
sewing-girl, came this afternoon to work for us. I did not 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

go to the Pigots', as I felt rather "pindling," but had a quiet 
evening with Madame Ducrot, who told us about the good 
times that Lulu and Nora and the rest of them had in the 
country last summer. Examined the shells and other curiosi- 
ties on the what-not, where there is an interesting collection. 
Madame Ducrot finished the cushion-covering which she has 
been embroidering. The cushion is of rose-colored satin 
trimmed with a border of wide, scalloped lace, and after the 
embroidered top was laid on, finished with a ruching of wide 
satin ribbon the same shade as the satin covering. It is very 
elegant. They say the Empress has one like it. 

Wednesday, Fehruary 10 

Accompanied Madame Ducrot and Francine to church. 
We were joined by Madame Chapoteau on the Rue de Ville 
Juste, who walked along with us. 

The church is small, and as we entered, the odor of in- 
cense was quite overpowering. There were the usual cere- 
monies, the jingling of the little bell, risings up and kneelings, 
sittings down and crossings, while the priest recited the Mass 
at the altar. In the meantime, a woman went round collecting 
the rent for the chairs, two sous each, and after that a priest, 
preceded by the '' Suisse^' with his baton, went up and down 
the aisles with a velvet bag, which he presented for contribu- 
tions, saying at the same time "Pour I'eglise, s'il vous plait." 
The last ceremony was performed by the same priest, who 
wore glasses and had a very benevolent countenance. This 
ceremony consisted in marking a cross upon the foreheads of 
the people as they went forward and knelt before him, saying, 
in Latin as he did so, ' ' Dust thou art and unto dust thou shalt 
return. ' ' He was attended by an assistant who carried a dish 
of ashes for him to dip his finger in. The cross on Francine 's 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

forehead was scarcely visible, as she chanced to be the last of 
one series of dippings, but it was made up on Madame, who 
was the first recipient of the next dip, and who retired with a 
very smutty face. 

As we arrived home and had accomplished the four 
flights of stairs, we saw the petit Emile flying up three steps 
at a time. He came to tell us that he had drawn a hon numero 
and consequently would not have to be a soldier or buy a sub- 
stitute. Madame Ducrot bestowed upon him a congratulatory 
kiss, and he shook hands all around. 

Madame Topin came with her baby, a droll-looking little 
red-faced thing in a cap, and dressed and done up so stiffly 
that it resembled a stick of wood, or an old-fashioned bed- 
wrench. Mademoiselle Helene took entire charge of it when 
she came in from her lessons, hardly taking time to cat her 
dinner, and begged her mother to allow her to adopt it, as 
Madame Topin said she would give it to her. Francine amused 
us all with her scientific experiments. Practiced gymnastics 
in the evening, Francine improvising several new gestures, to 
the amusement of the company. 

Thursday, February 11 

Sombre and chilly. After dejeuner, started with Ellie 
and Madame Doicrot to visit the Hotel de Ville. Took the 
omnibus at St. Philippe du Roule. "Was much amused before 
the omnibus started, at the conversation of a woman accom- 
panied by a girl and a small boy, of whom she seemed to 
have the charge. She was inclined to let everybody know 
her affairs, talking in a loud voice to the little boy, who might 
have been five years old, and was evidently not accustomed 
to Paris sights, which she busied herself in pointing out and 
explaining to him as he sat in the lap of the girl, who occupied 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the seat nearest the door. He was a pretty boy with a bright, 
earnest face, and he spoke in a low tone when he asked or 
answered questions, but the woman always repeated what he 
said as if to keep the company interested in the conversation. 
Suddenly she exclaimed, ' ' C 'etait un mot anglais, n 'est-ce pas ? 
Avec qui parlez-vous anglais a present, eh?" and she looked 
around playfully at us as if she had discovered the persons. 
The omnibus started, and the conversation was lost in the 
rumbling of the wheels. 

At one of the bureaux, a good-natured-looking fat woman 
presented herself at the door of our omnibus, which was full, 
and humorously inquired if there was not ''encore une petite 
place. ' ' She turned away smilingly to wait for the next con- 
veyance. As we passed by the palace of the Tuileries, noticed 
a collection of people who were peering through the iron rail- 
ings, watching the Prince Imperial and another youth of about 
the same age, who were amusing themselves on the broad 
graveled walk with their velocipedes. On arriving at the Hotel 
de Ville, Madame Ducrot inquired of the concierge for Mon- 
sieur Montcharmont, a friend of hers, who has an office in the 
building, and who, she said, would give us tickets of admission. 
Ran up and down several flights of stairs in vain search for 
him, and finally found oursevles at the entree of the grand 
salon, where we met a guide who informed us that the public 
had been admitted free for a few days past. We went through 
the suites of rooms, destitute of all ornaments, where the 
chandeliers and furniture were muffled up in gray linen. 
Madame said it was very strange; it was never arranged so 
before when she had visited it, and there had always been 
guides to explain whatever was interesting. She made one 
more attempt at finding Monsieur Montcharmont, which was 
l^uccessful. He explained that, this being the Carnival weekj 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

it was the annual season for admitting the public without 
tickets, and as last year a great deal of damage had been 
done, the ornaments broken, and the draperies cut and other- 
wise injured by mischievous and malicious persons, this year 
the government had taken precautions against the repetition 
of such acts, by removing or covering all articles likely to be 
injured. He advised us to come again the last of the month, 
when we could see it in all its beauty. While Madame was 
talking with Monsieur Montcharmont, EUie and I walked 
about the courtyard, which is roofed with glass. We admired 
from different points of view the graceful stairway and the 
fountain. The basin of this fountain was adorned with fat 
little marble cupids sporting in the water. One just outside 
was astride the back of a turtle, which he seemed to be urging 
into the water. 

Went to La Sainte Chapelle, but were too late to enter, 
as we thought we should probably be. On passing the Palais 
de Justice, our attention was directed to an ancient clock in 
the wall. During the Revolution, this clock had been walled 
up to preserve it from injury, and was discovered about 
eighteen years ago on tearing down the walls to make some 
repairs. The background on which it is placed is blue covered 
with gilt fieurs de lis. 

In the evening Madame Chapoteau, Juliette, and Made- 
moiselle Montagis came in. Madame Ducrot and I "em- 
broidered" some stockings, Francine read Byron, while 
Juliette and Mademoiselle Montagis were engaged in fancy 
work. Madame Chapoteau had a handkerchief tied over one 
of her eyes and sat in her accustomed seat with her hands 
folded. Juliette, in spite of all her precautions in bundling 
herself up in furs and woolen scarfs in order to preserve her 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

voice from all roughness, has a severe cold. Francine predicts 
that her fine voice will be the death of her yet. 

Friday, February 12 

Very windy. Read and wrote. In the afternoon EUie 
took my letters to the ''bureau de poste" on the Rue de 
I'Are de Triomphe. She said she thought there must be a 
funeral. The post-office was hung in black, which seemed a 
very strange circum-stance, until it occurred to us that some 
of the ' ' dead letters ' ' were being carried out ! 

This afternoon a young lady dressed in deep mourning 
called to invite Madame Ducrot to attend an anniversary 
service in remembrance of the funeral of her mother, which 
would be celebrated in the little church near here to-morrow. 
The young lady lives in the house across the garden with only 
her dog and her domestics. They say she is out of her head at 
times, poor girl ! She asked Madame Ducrot if she would per- 
mit her to come in here sometimes of an evening, for she is 
so lonely. 

Saturday y February 13 

Lovely day. Spent the afternoon at the Louvre. First 
visited the new gallery of sculpture and spent a half-hour 
with the Venus de Milo who was as beautiful as ever. There 
were three artists present engaged in copying her. The gallery 
adjoining the one devoted to this beautiful statue, from which 
it is separated by heavy red curtains, is presided over at one 
end by a huge statue of Melpomene, the Muse of tragedy, who 
holds in one hand a mask. The portion of floor at her feet is 
of exquisite mosaic, highly polished and separated from the 
rest by an iron railing. It is an allegorical representation of 
four great rivers, the Nile, the Po, the Danube, and the 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Dneiper, all of which except the Nile have their source in 
a large earthen pot, which is overturned and serves as an 
arm-rest to the river-god, who in the form of an old man 
sits on the bank holding in his hand a cornucopia filled with 
the fruits and flowers of the surrounding country, while a 
solitary tree and a few animals, to represent the natural his- 
tory of the region, complete the picture. The god of the Nile 
rests his arm upon a Sphinx, who looks as if the source of 
this mysterious river would never be revealed by him. 

Saw Miss Cameron in the picture-gallery, seated behind 
the iron railing put up to preserve the paintings from injury, 
having obtained special permission to occupy this position, in 
order to copy a little picture of a " cuisiniere allemande, ' ' who 
is in her kitchen preserving some fowls. 

On returning home, was informed that Madame Chevalier 
had called. Madame Ducrot attended the anniversary service, 
which she said was quite imposing. Helene inquired if there 
was a "cataplasm," meaning to say a ''catafalque," in the 
church. Francine 's engravings came to-day, and among them 
is the one that Miss Cameron is copying at the Louvre. 

Francine is out of sorts with the petit Emile, and as 
Helene says, "makes the mouths impossible" when he ad- 
dresses her. She responds with a freezing politeness, and 
Emile turns to his "petite tante" and is quite oblivious of 
the presence of Mademoiselle Francine for the rest of the 
evening. 

Sunday, February 14 

Lovely day. Helene gave her sister a severe reprimand 
at the breakfast-table; to which Francine listened good- 
naturedly, only telling her sister that she looked affreuse in 
that rohe de chambre, with her black hair streaking down her 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

back like a wild Indian. They went to walk in the Bois 
accompanied by Juliette and her brother, and while they were 
there, the indignation of Emile and Francine reached its 
climax ; since then there has been a reaction, and they are now 
the best of friends. 

Attended church all day. In the afternoon Dr. Hobinson 
gave an account of his journey from Egypt to Joppa. 

Monday, February 15 

Cloudy and sombre. After an early breakfast, Ellie and 
I started on foot for the College de France, calling on our 
way at Bowles and Brothers, bankers. One of the gentlemen 
of the firm informed us that they had a beautiful painting 
of Mr. Bierstadt's, and if we would take the trouble to walk 
upstairs into their picture-gallery, he was sure we should 
enjoy looking at it as well as at other paintings there. We 
availed ourselves of his kind permission, though at the risk of 
being late at the lecture, and spent more than twenty minutes 
admiring the Bierstadt picture and another of Faust's 
''Marguerita." I inquired the name of one of Bierstadt's of 
a lady who was copying it, but she she did not know 
exactly, saying it was a cascade in California, she be- 
'lieved. One would know, if familiar with the paintings of 
Bierstadt, that no one but himself could give that peculiar 
coloring to the sky and the water. It was the Falls of the 
Yosemite. You feel as if the sun were about to shine out 
in full splendor and dazzle you. In the foreground is a lake 
and at the left a cascade that seems almost to fall from the 
clouds; while in the background is another smaller and more 
noisy-looking. At the right are some forest trees out from 
among which several deer are starting as if to drink from the 
lake, pausing just as they quit the shadows with that sort of 

[325] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO \ 

i 
startled air as if listening to make sure they are safe before i 

proceeding farther. Faust's "Marguerita" is almost the size | 

of life. It is the scene where Martha is examining with Mar- : 

guerita the contents of the jewel-box left in the latter 's room ! 

by Faust. Marguerita has put on the necklace, but pauses i 

with a sudden thought, as if half -frightened at what she has ij 

done, and does not notice the earrings that Martha holds sus- 1 

pended just over the jewel-box, with an expression which! 

seems to say, ''And these, too, just look! How can you re- j 

sist ? ' ' The face of Martha is wonderfully good-natured, and j 

Marguerita is beautiful, with blue eyes and flaxen hair. She j 

seems to have just risen from the chair, over the back of which 

Mephistopheles is leaning watching the scene with a face | 

"devilish cunning." You can hardly decide whether he has ; 

hands, or claws. On a careful examination, you would say \ 

they were hands, but an after-glance makes you think that | 

after all, they are claws. | 

Found "salle numero 8 filled when we arrived at the j 
College with the exception of the little circular place in which j 
the platform terminates, where we entered with others, when j 
the guard opened the door, and found very good seats. This j 
place was crowded in a twinkling, notwithstanding the ex- j 
postulations of the guard, who seemed to be in very mauvaise I 
humeur. One lady told him to restez tranquil when he asked j 
her how she supposed Monsieur Laboulaye was going to get in I 
through such a crowd. 

Monsieur Laboulaye, in speaking of the English, said 
they had settled down upon two ideas : one was that England 
is the only land of freedom, and the other, which would be t 
the natural consequence of the first, that only Englishmen 
understood how to make laws which would insure liberty 
to man. In speaking of the laws of France, he says, "If you 

[326] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

find a law is not good, at least do not canonize it. Always 
seek for the truth of a matter. She is more ancient than 
error which hides her." 

Returned home, lunched, and dressed ourselves to make 
some calls. It being reception day at Dr. Robinson's, we 
concluded to take advantage of the occasion to thank him 
for his Egyptian discourses. He was not at home, but we 
saw his v/ife and sister, whom we found very pleasant and 
agreeable. Mrs. Robinson is a very pretty lady, refined and 
distinguished appearing. She was dressed in black, with 
such a pretty little matronly dress-cap, with pink trimmings 
to match the bow at her throat. Miss Robinson is charming, 
just as simple and interesting as her brother, who is the only 
minister I have found who is worthy to be compared with 
our good Dr. Wallace. Miss Robinson is going to Italy soon. 
They live in beautiful apartments on the Avenue de la Reine 
Hortense. Called also on Madame Chevalier to thank her 
for lending Angelina. While I was there. Monsieur came in, 
and it being almost dinner-time we took our leave, after first in- 
Iviting them to attend the exhibition of pictures by means of 
'the stereopticon, at the Rue de Berri chapel next Thursday 
evening. 

Tuesday, February 16 

Lovely day. Clear and cold. This afternoon Ellie went 
with Madame Ducrot to witness the ceremony of the 
^'Adieux of the Roman Catholic Priests," who leave for 
foreign lands v/ith the expectation of never returning. One 
of them. Monsieur TAbbe Seymour, goes to China. Ellie 
returned before the ceremony was over, accompanied by 
Helene and Francine, as they were unable to see the cere- 
monies, owing to the crowed. 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Received a paper to-day directed to ''A. E. Stanton, 
Esq.," which proved to be the '^ American Register." It no 
doubt came from the bankers, Bowles & Co., as they asked 
permission to register my name yesterday on their book. It 
contains a list of Americans who are at present in Europe, 
with their temporary residences. It mentions that Mr. 
Albert Bierstadt gave a brilliant reception last Thursday 
evening in his rooms at the Grand Hotel, where Mrs. 
Bierstadt did the honors with much grace. Also that Mr. 
Cyrus Field passed through the city last week on his way to 
Nice, where his family have been spending the winter. 

Wednesday, February 17 

Lovely day. In the afternoon Monsieur Alourez called' 
to inquire for Mademoiselle Francine, who had been absent! 
from the "Cours" this week in order to get rested and re-! 
freshed. Monsieur Alourez is an unclce of Madame' 
Levasseur and a writer and author quite famous, who hasj 
been decorated by the Emperor for literary talent. Thisi 
reminds me of a little incident related by Francine some time | 
ago as having occurred at the "Cours" about the time of thej 
Prize Distribution. A few days before that event, his Honor,! 
the Mayor of Paris, who presided on that occasion, called to ! 
visit Monsieur Levasseur 's Ecole de Dessin. He is a manj 
whose principal asset is his money, and who fawns around! 
his superiors and lords it over those whom he considers his 
inferiors. While at the school, Monsieur Levasseur began i 
showing him some dessins, but as he was called away, Madame^ 
Levasseur was left to finish. The Mayor very patronizingly 
allowed her to entertain him, never offering to assist her! 
when they became disarranged, but looking on with an air; 
as if he would say, ''1 am doing you great honor, Madame,'^ 

[328] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

evidently considering it quite a condescension on his part to 
notice her at all. Madame Levasseur remarked his want of 
politeness, but, being a perfect lady, kept on in the even 
tenor of her way without seeming to notice it. The day of 
the prizes, — as Madame Levasseur who had an address to 
deliver, was sitting upon the platform in company with the 
different professors, his Honor the Mayor at her side, Mon- 
sieur Alourez entered and took his seat with other distin- 
guished persons on the platform, and began talking with 
Monsieur Levasseur. The Mayor had, until then, considered 
himself the greatest man present, but spjdng the decoration 
upon the coat of M. Alourez, he turned to Madame Levasseur 
and pompously inquired who the gentleman was who had 
just entered, wearing the decoration. Madame Levasseur 
quietly responded, ''Monsieur Alourez, mon oncle." The 
Mayor gave a start of astonishment at the well-known name 
and exclaimeed, "Votre oncle, Madame!" and with a new 
interest and visible change in his manner towards Madame 
Levasseur, who, he began to think, might be somebody of 
account, respectfully asked, "And were you Mademoiselle 
Alourez before your marriage, Madame?" Madame 
Levasseur informed him that M. Alourez was the brother 
of her mother, and after this, the Mayor did "his possible" 
to make up for his previous neglect, his attentions making as 
little impression upon Madame Levasseur as his want of them 
had upon the niece of Monsieur Alourez. 

Thursday, February 18 

Cloudy and somber. About half-past one Madame 
Chevalier called and spent nearly three hours. In the 
evening went to the stereopticon exhibition, accompanied by 
Madame Ducrot. Just after we had taken our seats, we spied 

[329] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monsieur Chevalier coming down the aisle. When he saw 
us, he took the seat just behind, so I could interpret the re- 
marks of Dr. Robinson both to him and to Madame Ducrot. 
He said Madame Chevalier was tired and decided not to 
come. The exhibition was a failure, the moisture in the 
atmosphere collecting upon the glass so that many of the 
pictures appeared to be in a dense fog. Dr. Robinson had 
warned us beforehand that although it had worked well at; 
home, it might prove to be like those infants whose mammas 
had taught them a great many cunning little ways, but who i 
refused to repeat them in the presence of strangers wheni 
their mammas wished them to do so. He was obliged to give] 
up trying to show his pictures of Egypt, as everythingj 
seemed to be in a fog. Some of them, however, were veryj' 
good. Dr. Robinson remarked to the amusement of all, ''Iti 
is trying hard to please you; it is all in a perspiration," | 
alluding to the stereopticon when the pictures began to growl 
indistinct. ] 

As we were leaving the church, we encountered Madame! 
Chevalier much to our surprise, who said she was induced to) 
change her mind, as one of the gentlemen who was boarding! 
with them urged her so earnestly to accompany him. Mon-| 
sieur Chevalier and Madame walked home with us, as Mon-I 
sieur said Madame needed to take the air. j 

Friday, February 19 \ 

Lovely day. Dined and spent the evening at the Gris-' 
w^old's and enjoyed our visit very much. The baby hasj 
grow^n astonishingly since we saw her, and is now so large, 
that the clothes of Annie 's doll fit her very well. 

[330] ' 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, February 20 
Went to the Louvre, and, after stajdng as long as I 
wished, returned. On my way home went to the Pare de 
Monceau. While I was sitting on one of the settees, watching 
the little children at play, an old woman quite well-dressed 
came along and told me a pitiful story. Her friends were all 
dead and she had been for some time past in the hospital hoping 
to be cured of paralysis, but without receiving any benefit. 
Had sold everything for bread, and expected every day to be 
turned out of her room for want of money to pay her rent. 
I pitied the poor woman, as one hand and arm seemed to be 
completely paralyzed, but her breath smelled very strong 
of vin extra-ordinaire. After her departure, an old gentle- 
man with an air of being hien conserve sat down on the settee 
and began talking by remarking interrogatively that I must 
have found that old woman tres-ennuyeuse? I responded re- 
spectfully, but finding him too inquisitive and withal very 
impertinent, as he informed me I was tres-charmante, I told 
him I was accustomed to treat with respect old gentlemen — 
here he began to gather himself up ; — but it was not my 
habit to talk with strangers. He took his departure im- 
mediately not seeming to relish the allusion to his age. 

Sunday, February 21 
Dr. Robinson preached from Rev. 22 :20, "Even so, come, 
Lord Jesus." The Bible ends in a prayer and benediction. 
Speaking of the appropriateness of such an ending, he said, 
"I have been told of a church in Canada whose foundations 
rose into Gothic walls, whose Gothic walls were surmounted 
by towers, whose towers contracted into steeples, whose 
steeples narrowed into spires upon whose summits stood an 
angel whose slender finger still pointed upward." 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Sunday School concert in the afternoon. Dr. Robinson 
gave an account to the children of his visit to the parish of 
Monsieur Sangiier who is laboring at St. Denis, and who 
addressed them several weeks ago. Among other things, he 
said he made a speech to the children there, though it took 
two to make it, Monsieur Sangiier standing at his side 
as interpreter. He explained to them the peculiarities of the 
number 9 and astonished them by asserting that he had seen 
a man with one-half of his face entirely black ! When he had 
amused himself sufficiently by watching the effect of this, and 
eliciting from them the opinion that it was one of the 
strangest sights in the world, he informed them that it would 
have been, only the other side was just as black ! 

Dr. Milburn, known as the "blind preacher," will give 
a course of five lectures at the Rue de Berri Chapel com- 
mencing Friday evening. He is trying to have his eyesight 
restored, at least partially, by a celebrated doctor in Berlin. 
Found the family at table on arriving home, as I was later 
than usual, 

Monday, February 22 

Walked to the College de France by the quays and found 
the distance shorter than by the Rue de Rivoli. One of the 
professors was about concluding his lecture as we arrived. 
He must have been much disturbed by the new arrivals com- 
ing in to secure places for the lecture of Monsieur Laboulaye, 
but he did not manifest any annoyance and persevered to 
the end when he was enthusiastically cheered and took his 
departure. Was much entertained in watching the people 
as they took their seats, and not a little indignant to see so 
much impoliteness by ladies who insisted upon keeping places 
for friends. One refused for some time to remove her 

[332] 



MY LIFE IK PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

chair to allow another to pass to a vacant seat. When at 
last she decided to move, the other nearly pushed her over, 
chair and all, in passing, looking daggers at her in the mean- 
time and even after the lecture had begun. 

According to agreement waited at the omnibus-station of 
Sainte Philippe du Bottle on returning, for Madame Ducrot, 
who was so late that we concluded she was not coming, and 
started for home when we met her just turning the corner of 
the Rue de Berri. Called at a ''jeweler's" establishment and 
then returned home. Had lunch, read aloud to Madame 
Ducrot until dinner-time and retired early. Francine, as 
usual, had an adventure to relate. This time, the hero was a 
young ^^creve/' who had followed her home all the way from 
the Ecole de Dessin. 

Tuesday, Fehniary 23 

Instead of taking a dictee, read with Mademoiselle 
Helene a little comedy entitled ' ' Le saint Francois, ' ' which is 
to be performed one of these evenings by dramatis personae 
composed of Helene, the petit Emile, Francine, Monsieur 
Henri, and Mademoiselle Pigot. This afternoon Monsieur 
Chevalier called to bring me "Les Mysteres de Paris" and 
as I shall not probably have time to finish the book before 
leaving town, he wishes me to keep it as a souvenir. 

Francine had a new history to relate to-night of her ad- 
ventures. This time it was a 'billet-doux poetique which she 
found on her cloak in the ante-chamber where she had left it 
for a minute to say ''good-night" to Monsieur Levasseur's 
father and mother. 

Wednesday, February 24 
Called at Mr. Griswold's to inquire about the tickets to 
[333] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the lectures of Rev. Mr. Milburn. Little Annie was on her 
bad behavior, ''cutting up" in the most impossible manner. 
She was finally banished to the bedroom from which she 
emerged upon hearing us taking our adieux, but was speedily 
returned by her mamma, who had forbidden her to appear 
without permission. 

Thursday, February 25 

A lovely day. Took a walk in the Bois. Found some 
yellow flowers in blossom. In the evening Ellie and I went 
to see the "Views in Palestine" at the Rue de Berri Chapel. 
Just after we were seated. Monsieur Chevalier came in and 
took a seat with us. The exhibition opened with the por- 
traits of the Imperial family, which were excellent, but, un- 
fortunately, the bag containing the gas leaked, and after a 
few views, much to the chagrin of Dr. Robinson, he was 
obliged to announce the close of the exhibition for that 
evening, "For," said he, "what can a minister be expected 
to do when he has expended all his gas?" He closed by 
giving notice of the course of lectures by Rev. Mr. Milburn, 
commencing to-morrow evening and continuing Tuesdays 
and Fridays until finished. In the course of his remarks, he 
used the expression "minister of the Gospel," when Mon- 
sieur Chevalier turned to me and asked what it was he 
was saying about "velocipeded." Just before the assembly 
was dismissed a vote of thanks to Dr. Robinson was pro- 
posed, which terminated in a hearty chorus of ' ' ayes. ' ' Mon- 
sieur Chevalier asked what that meant, why we were all 
screaming "aie" as if we were hurt! As it was not nine 
o'clock, we decided to return by the Madeleine. Stopped 
before one of the little Kiosks in front of the Grand Hotel 
on the Boulevard des Capucins, which are erected at short 

[334] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

intervals all along the boulevards, to get a glimpse of the 
''Jolie Marchande de journeaux," so famous for her beauty. 
Her kiosk seemed to be the greatest attraction, and many 
buy her papers solely to get an opportunity to speak to her. 
She v/as chatting with some of her admirers, resting her 
cheek upon her hand, a position favorable to the display of a 
rather ponderous bracelet which encircled her arm. They 
say she ''is as wise and good as she is fair." We lingered on 
the boulevards, looking in at the shop-windows until nearly 
half-past ten, when we returned by chemin de fer, taking the 
train which arrives in about ten minutes at the foot of the 
Avenue de 1 'Imperatrice. 

There arose a difference of opinion in reference to the 
Hippodrome; so Monsieur took us up another street just 
before we arrived at No. 23 to give us a convincing view, 
which did not shorten the distance home. 

Monsieur says the gamins at his house are going to 
leave, and he will not be sorry when they are gone; suggests 
that we prolong our stay in Paris another month and come 
to his house. 

Friday, February 26 

Cloudy and dull. Finished reading "L'Archiprete" by 
Eugene Sue in the ''Echo des Feuilletons. " 

Saturday, February 27 

Went to the Louvre, where I met Miss Cameron who 
was sketching Murillo's Madonna, having received an order 
from New York to copy it. We walked across the courtyard 
of the Louvre together, after which our routes lay in 
different directions. Called at 35 Rue de I'Arc de Triomphe 

[335] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

but received the information, ''Madame est sortie et Mon- 
sieur aussi. ' ' In passing along the street saw a little French 
maiden of scarcely three years, coming out of one of the 
long, paved vestibules which conduct to the courtyards of the 
houses. She was dressed like the little girls in her class of so- 
ciety, in a closely-fitting white cap and long-sleeved white apron 
of coarse cotton cloth, gathered into a yoke and completely 
enveloping her, from neck to heels. Her feet were en- 
closed in wooden shoes or sabots, the clattering of which had 
attracted my attention. By means of strings clasped tightly 
in her little fat hands, she was drawing after her a small 
white lamb on green wheels, looking as innocent as herself, 
and a small establishment which might have been a "Noah's 
Ark." She was such a contrast in her simplicity to the i 
little children I had just left on the Champs Elysees, dressed 
in their silks and gay ribbons, velvets, and furs, with their 
wax dolls and costly playthings, though not a whit less 
happy, that I enjoyed watching her. 

On our way home met, on the Avenue Prince Jerome, 
Madame, who expressed her sorrow at being out, and as a 
compensation, accompanied us home. We extended our 
walk nearly to the Bois de Boulogne, and at last separated 
at the corner of the avenue. Madame told Ellie not to say 
emhetant, as it was not an elegant expression. 

Sunday, February 28 

Windy. Text in the morning in Acts 7 :55. Afternoon, 
Acts 8 :36. In going to church in the morning, took the 
small streets to avoid the wind, and progressed very com- 
fortably. In the afternoon to shorten the distance, traversed 
the Place d'Etoile and passed through the Arc de Trlomphe gj 

[336] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

on my way to the Champs Ehjsees. On arriving at the 
center under the four arches, I felt myself a living personifi- 
cation of the compass being boxed. Such a rush as the wind 
made, not from any particular quarter but from all points at 
once, was something fearful! For a moment there seemed 
to be no way of escape excepting by an upward leap; but 
after a desperate effort I succeeded in extricating myself 
from the three winds, but the fourth pursued me all the 
way down the Champs Ely sees; and not until I had reached 
the protecting shelter of the Rue de Berri was I able to walk 
with any degree of leisure or dignity. ''No one ever arrived 
at any greatness in the world who was afraid of being 
laughed at," but to be made sport of by the breeze is quite 
another thing, and I have felt taller and slimmer ever since. 
Met the petit Emile and his brother, ''le gros Paul" on 
returning. They looked like faithful disciples of Jean 
Jacques Rousseau in point of toilet, but Emile touched his 
hat with the grace of a Chesterfield, though the hat itself 
was of the style denominated ''impossible" by the good 
Madame Chevalier. 

Monday, March 1 

Very windy. Received a letter from London which 
decides that we shall remain in Paris a month longer than 
we intended, provided we can go to Madame Chevalier's. 
Did not attend the lecture of M. Laboulaye. Called in the 
afternoon to see if Madame Chevalier would take us for the 
next month. She seemed quite as pleased with the idea as 
we were. There are four chambers free just now, and she 
says we can have our choice of them, and that Monsieur was 
talking this very morning about our coming there, and 

[337] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

would be delighted to-night when she told him we were 
coming. 

Lamartine died to-day. 

Tuesday, March 2 

Suunshine, clouds, wind, hail and snow ; a day when the 
French say "Le diable bat sa femme." Wrote, and read 
in ''Les Mysteres de Paris." A furious hailstorm attracted 
me to the window, where Madame Ducrot soon joined me. 
In a few minutes the roofs of the concierge's lodge and the 
other buildings in the vicinity, that were not grown-up were 
covered with snow, and the garden looked beautiful, the 
green grass contrasting with the white snow and hail. The 
fire spluttered and ''fumed" as v/hen "fire is with water 
commixed and commingled," as the hail and sleet came 
rattling down the chimney. Madame Ducrot, after ex- 
pressing the hope that neither of her daughters was out in 
the tempest, added with a sigh, "Les pauvres petits oiseaux 
sont bien malheureux dehors dans ce temps-ci." I never 
saw anyone who seemed to love birds as she does. She is 
quite a naturalist in this department, and can tell you of the 
different birds, their habits and their plumage. She has a 
glass case full of eggs which she collected in her childhood, 
and shells that would grace a museum. 

Wednesday, 3Iarch 3 

Winter seems to be rousing up to a realizing sense that 
''the velvet foot of Spring" is encroaching upon his realm, 
and is making up for lost time by an unusual display of 
severity. 

Francine has taken her first lesson in shell-designing 
and finds the work so difficile that she is almost discouraged. 

[33«] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ShoAved us to-night how the reverse side of the shell is made 
after the opening is sketched. 

Thursday, March 4 

Mi-Careme. The Fete day of the blanchisseuses. Did 
not go out. The Chapoteaus dined here. The ''Gros Paul" 
and the petit Emile do not resemble each other in the 
slightest. In the evening the company was increased by 
Mademoiselle Marie Pigot, her two brothers and Mademoi- 
selle Montagis. The ''Comedie" was rehearsed, to the infinite 
amusement of all spectators, the feather duster flourishing 
conspicuously, not only in its proper capacity but very grace- 
fully holding itself inverted in a perpendicular position in 
the role of a bouquet of flowers. Francine gave me one of 
her studies, a copy of ''Diane et la Biche," a piece of statuary 
at the Louvre. The body of Lam^artine, which has been 
lying in state, was interred to-day. 

Friday, March 5 

Windy and rainy. Francine remained at home copying 
an engraving, arranging the white flowers in the hair of 
the principal figure ; an afternoon's work, but done so beauti- 
fully that the copy is handsomer than the original. At 
dejeuner Francine related a little incident to illustrate her 
faithfulness as an instructor. It happened in England 
during her sojourn in the capacity of companion and teacher 
of French, in the family of a Mr. Fields, who, by the way, 
trace their line of descent directly from Oliver Cromwell. 
One evening, just before the gas was lighted, she and Mary 
Fields were chasing each other about the house for exer- 
cise. As Mary was running with all her speed towards her 
chamber to elude Francine, who followed in full chase, she 

[339] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

1 
was suddenly arrested in her wild career by encountering i 

the door, which in the uncertain light she thought to be 
open, and giving her nose so severe a blow that it began to ^ 
bleed profusely. Francine ran for a washbowl while her un- 
fortunate companion, almost fainting from the pain, sank 
upon the floor exclaiming, ''0, ma pauvre nez!" Francine, 
faithful to the last, turned and said, ''Mon nez, Mary, nez est 
masculin ; " at which poor Mary, in spite of her sufferings, 
could not help laughing and at the same time reproaching her 
with being sans coeur. 

The concierge of the house at the other end of the 
garden died very suddenly of gout. She was sitting in her 
chair, as well as usual, and in ten minutes was dead. The 
attack was so sudden that she died before the doctor could 
arrive. 

Madame Chapoteau and Juliette came in this afternoon 
to sit awhile. Juliette sang several pieces. Practised gym- 
nastics just before going to bed, with Helene and Francine. 
Helene had on a little red petticoat and gray sack, and 
looked exactly like a wild Indian as she danced about. She 
gave us a lesson in '^natation" which was exceedingly 
amusing. 

Saturday, March 6 

Francine at home, busy on her picture. Wrote my diciee, 
read and studied. Had for breakfast artichokes which 
Helene gave me a lesson in eating. They look like the green 
ends of pineapples as they are brought on the table, and are 
served with a white sauce. 

Helene said Evelyn Bailey had told her that it was cus- 
tomary for young ladies in America to throw kisses and 
bouquets to the soldiers ; a thing that in France is so peu con- 

[340] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

venahle that she wished to know if it was true, as Miss Bailey 
recounts so much that is extraordinary and fabulous. 

Helene gave me an account of the Triumphal reception of 
the French soldiers in Paris in 1858, on their return from 
their victorious campaign in Italy Temporary Arcs de 
Triomphe were erected on the principal boulevards and 
one of them arranged by means of strings and pulleys in 
such a manner that when the Emperor passed under on horse- 
back, an eagle flew down, holding in its talons a laurel- 
wreath which it deposited upon his head where it rested for 
an instant, when the bird with its symbol of victory flew up 
again and the Emperor passed on. She finished her descrip- 
tion with a petite histoire at her mother's expense, to which 
Madame Ducrot listened, sometimes shaking with laughter 
and saying, "C'est vrai," and again exclaiming ''Quelle 
betise!" 

As we sat at the table after dinner discussing whether 
one could have an air distingue and be at the same time laid, 
the door-bell rang, and Monsieur Chevalier was announced. 
He came to ask us which of the chambers at his house we 
preferred, and in order to decide the question, Ellie and I 
went with him for a walk down the Champs Elysees and the 
boulevards, returning, as we did the other evening, by 
chemin de fer to the foot of the Avenue de I'lmperatrice. He 
says the recent interment of Lamartine was triste. The Em- 
peror wished to have him buried with state honors, and had 
he been, the ceremonies would have been imposing ; but before 
Ihis death the poet expressed his wish to be buried simply and 
unostentatiously. So he was taken quietly to his estate at 
St. Point. Lamartine was an intimate friend of the mother 
of Monsieur Montcharmont, to whom I have before alluded. 

[341] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

1 
On emerging from the station of the chemin de fer, onj 
our way home, we went a short distance down one of the | 
avenues in the Bois, but it looked so dark and somber that! 
we retraced our steps and walked up the broad part of the I 
Avenue de I'lmperatrice until we arrived home. Found thel 
petit Emile just taking his leave. Broke the news of ourj 
coming departure gently to Madame Ducrot and herl 
daughters and retired. j 

Sunday, March 7 ) 

Communion Sabbath. Dr. Robinson took occasion to in- 
form the people that the church was not Presbyterian, as 
many seemed to have the idea it was, but Union in every sense 
of the word, the members being made up of all the religious 
denominations. Baptists, Congregationalists, Methodists andj 
Episcopalians as well as Presbyterians. His sermon in the] 
morning and discourse in the afternoon were, as usual, ex-| 
cellent. Gethsemane means wine-press. ''He trod the wine-| 
press alone." He tried to impress on the members of the 
church the necessity of cultivating the grace of liberality. 

It was difficult traversing the Champs Elysees, for the 
horses and carriages were innumerable. As I stood upon the 
curbstone, not so much for the purpose of ' ' curbing my emo- 
tions" as to wait for an "opening," a young man in a blue 
blouse came along, and seeing that I was waiting, exclaimed, 
''Attendez, Mamselle!" and rushing before me cleared the 
way so effectually by waving his arms and shouting that I 
passed over in triumph and my avant-coureur, not waiting to 
be thanked for his good-natured act, disappeared in the crowd. 

Monday, March 8 
Cold. Breakfasted early, as usual on Monday morning, to 

[342] 



I 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

be in season at the ''Cours." On arriving at the College and 
looking in at the door of Salle No. 8, saw no vacant places 
but found several on going to the other door. My indignation 
was excited anew before the lecture began, on witnessing the 
impoliteness of the ladies present. I was never in my life in 
a company who made any pretentions to being well-bred, so 
rude and even insolent as are the feminine portion of Monsieur 
Laboulaye 's audience. Some of them will occupy and conceal 
two or three seats, never making the slightest movement for 
the accommodation of a new-comer unless it chances to be one 
of their friends, and the selfishness they exhibit is really 
shocking. The lecture to-day was on the formation of the 
Constitution, commencing in 1789, just before the taking of 
the Bastille, and extending to 1791. The great question was 
whether the Government should consist of two chambers or 
only one. If of one, the danger was that this body, consti- 
tuted for the benefit of the people, should usurp too much 
power, until it would seem that the people were made for the 
benefit of the Chamber; and here came another coupe de 
griff es for the benefit of the ladies, in the way of an illustra- 
tion to the effect that, as formerly dresses were made for the 
ladies ; now it would seem the ladies were made for the dresses ! 
He related an anecdote of Washington and Jefferson apropos 
)f this. One day Washington invited Jefferson to breakfast 
tvith him for the purpose of discussing this question. As they 
were drinking their tea, Washington without ceremony de- 
iberately poured his out into a saucer to cool; but Jefferson, 
n the heat of the discussion, without regarding the tempera- 
:ure of the beverage, swallowed the contents of his cup all at 
)nce and then called out that he was scalded. Washington 
n reply exclaimed, "Hold there! the argument for one Cham- 

[343] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO ■ 

! 

ber is finished. My saucer is the second Chamber which cools j 
off the heat of the first ! " | 

Fran cine says that Monsieur Laboulaye does not approve! 
of ladies attending his lectures, and she is sure if he had his 
way about it, there would be no seats reserved for them. I 
Whether she is right or not, he certainly ignores their pres-; 
ence, always opening his remarks with the single word,i| 
''Messieurs." j 

Returned by omnibus, stopping on the Faubourg St.' 
Honore to do a little shopping. Helene dined at the Chapo- 
teau's, and at half -past eight Francine went to spend the 
evening there. 



Tuesday, March 9 

Found it snowing fast this morning and quite a little bank| 
piled up against my window. The astronomers predict very] 
cold weather from now to the end of April. Finished '' Marion j 
Delorme" from the ''Theatre de Victor Hugo" and spent thej 
day indoors reading, writing and studying. Helene was in aj 
very theatrical mood when she came in to dinner, uttering all 
her remarks in a highly declamatory style, much to the grief 
of her mother, who regarded her unusual gaiety as a certain 
forerunner of illness for the morrow. The war between France | 
and Russia was the result of the refusal of the Emperor Alex-i 
ander to address Napoleon III. as "Mon Cousin," so saysj 
Helene. i 

Wednesday, March 10 \ 

Clear and cold. A quiet day. Francine busy on her pic; 
ture. She spent more than five hours on the face of the littlei 
girl who is drawing a lamb about the room, but she has im-1 
proved on the original and is satisfied with everything except^ 

[344] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ing the nose, which is rather too square. The Pere Berchot 
came with the incense I had ordered, but it did not prove to 
be the right kind. Ellie and Madame Ducrot went out to 
walk and ordered some peiites tottrnures to be sent up for me 
to select from. While they were out, read aloud to Francine 
from ''Les Mysteres de Paris" the account of the ''famille 
Morel. ' ' Madame Topin called to see if they were needing her 
services. Says that Madame Sarroco is afraid she will die 
suddenly, as the concierge did, and so goes to walk every day 
instead of riding. 

Thursday, March 11 

This morning on entering the salon found Francine at her 
drawing and Helene sitting before the fire writing a letter. 
She asked me if I wished to hear some news about my eleve 
and proceeded to inform me that the petit Emile was gris last 
levening, having breakfasted with one of his friends. Such a 
circumstance seems to be regarded in quite a different light 
from what it is at home. Instead of feeling bad, they seemed 
highly amused, and when I asked if his mother was contente 
when he was so excited and said such out-of-the-way things, 
they said, ''Yes, she laughed." The petit Emile came in this 
evening to see about the ' ' Comedie ' ' and was prevailed upon 
to stay to dinner. He had rather a serious air, quite becoming 
'o a young man the day after being gris. We discussed char- 
acter. Francine doesn't like people who change their minds. 
; In the evening the young ladies went to Monsieur Pigot's 
m rehearse the Comedie. Madame Ducrot told me the legend 
)f *'Le Pont du Diable" at Toulon. This bridge was con- 
itructed by the Romans and was a work of great difficulty, 
he Arroux being very rapid at this point. The legend is 
his : 

[345] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

The inhabitants of Toulon, feeling the need of a bridge, , 

set about its construction, and after surmounting many diffi- I 

culties, had the satisfaction of seeing it completed; but the \ 

morning after, to their chagrin and astonishment, they found I 

it in ruins. Nothing daunted, they repaired it, and the second j 

time the morning revealed it in the same extraordinary i 

state of demolition. Repairs were again made, but with no | 

better results. The ^'bailli" with the principal men of the! 

town met to talk the matter over, and it was unanimously ' 

agreed that further efforts would be useless, as evidently there | 

was some supernatural power working against them. Just at i 

this point a stranger appeared, and said he would promise 

them a solid bridge and one that would last forever, which 

should be completed that same night on one condition, viz., i 

that the hailli should give him the first soul that should pass | 

over it after its completion. This proposal, so extraordinary, i 

was not accepted without much deliberation, but it was finally i 

decided that to get along without the bridge was an impossi- 1 

bility, and the proposition was accepted. The morning-light , 

revealed to the delighted gaze of the beholders a bridge with i 

an air of solidity which promised to be everlasting. Now; 

came the question of who was willing to go to the Devil, for ' 

there was not the shade of a doubt as to who the stranger- i 

architect was, and he was already on the other side waiting i 

for his prize. The victim was decided upon, and amidst the | 

triumphant shouts of the assembled multitude, which drowned ; 

his cries of terror, was placed at the commencement of his 

fatal journey, and, finding all attempts at resistance useless,' 

rushed madly and distractedly to the end. The unfortunate 

victim was a dog with a saucepan tied to his tail ! 

Sat up till nearly midnight to listen to Francine's ac-! 
count of her reception at the Chapoteau's, where she and her 

[346] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

sister went according to agreement to call for the petit Emile. 
She was in a state of indignation quite excusable under the 
circumstances. 

Friday, March 12 

Very cold. A quiet day, passed in the salon with Madame 
Ducrot, the cocotte and Francine, who is still engaged on her 
picture. She became quite disgusted with it this afternoon 
and declared that she would never finish it ; she was tired of 
it. So now she has consigned it to her large portfolio of 
dessms and placed it behind the piano, wishing she may never 
see it again. Received letters from London and America, the 
former containing the delightful news of the Warners' safe 
arrival and Georgie Warner's return. 

The concierge came up to-day on the part of the pro- 
prietaire, as she said, to complain that there was too much 
noise here. Madame Ducrot is quite indignant, as the noise 
proceeded from the cuisine where Louise is chopping meat. 
This is the second complaint, the other being in reference to 
so much practice on the piano, which disturbed a nervous 
gentleman in the apartment below. To-morrow we go to 
board at Madame Chevalier's. 

Saturday, March 13 

Spent most of the day until four o'clock in packing. 
When we were all ready we sent Louise to tell the concierge 
to call a cab and then went to the salon to say good-bye to 
Madame Ducrot and Francine. Helene had been to our room 
before going out, to say ''au revoir," ^'bientot," etc. Found 
Mademoiselle Michel in the salon and Francine in quite a high 
state of excitement over a Greek Prince, a friend of Made- 
moiselle Michel, who had taken a great fancy to Francine 's 

[347] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

photograph, and to whom Mademoiselle Michel had promised 
to introduce her. It is supposed to be the opening of most 
brilliant prospects for the future, not altogether surprising, 
as Francine 's mamma always said her daughter had the ' ' air 
of a Princess. ' ' Mademoiselle Michel is very interesting in 
conversation. Francine says she talks like a book, her words 
are so well chosen. She is a helle femme, and though over I 
eighty years of age, would not be taken for more than sixty. | 

After we had waited more than half an hour, the carriage 
was at last announced, and in a short time we found our- 
selves at our old home, 35 Rue de I'Arc de Triomphe, where \ 
we were warmly received by Madame Chevalier, who con- 1 
ducted us to the room occupied last winter by Mrs. Hubbard, i 
It looked pretty and inviting with its fresh mousseline cur- ' 
tains and dark blue hangings. In one of the windows was i 
Mr. Lampman's pet easy-chair, a perfect "sleepy-hollow," 
and in the other, a fauteuil that used to be in our room last 
winter, which looked very natural in its blue-chintz covering, i 
Over the table between the windows, is a small engraving of i 
a lady with a covered dish in her hands, approaching a table ! 
upon which stands a carafe of water. Over the toilet-table 
is a crayon portrait that used to hang in the salon, which , 
reminds me very much of Celenda Morgan. An armoire a j 
glace, two chairs and two tables, a large mirror over the chim- 
ney, a handsome little clock with marble ornaments to match, : 
two handsome brass candlesticks with claw feet, and a Brus- 
sels carpet, complete the furniture. 

Just as I had my hands daubed with ink from a bottle 
which, unlike George Washington, had been guilty of "slop- 
ping over," Monsieur Chevalier came in to welcome us. He 
was just about to escort to the train for Marseilles his sister 
and her little girl who have been visiting them. One of the,; 

[348] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

domestics had the little girl in her arms as we came up the 
stairs. We had finished unpacking and arranging our effects 
in the closet, the wardrobe, and the drawers, enjoying the 
extra conveniences all the more from our life of deprivation 
at Madame Ducrot's, when dear Madame Chevalier came to 
announce diner. 

As we entered the dining-room, which was so nice and 
warm and looked in every way so homelike, Madame gave us 
our old places on either side of Monsieur's chair, that gentle- 
man being absent. My napkin was in a silver ring marked 
''A. S.^'; they forgot to put in the "E.," and everything 
seemed so natural and delightful that I could hardly contain 
myself for joy. Even the tabouret which I found placed for 
my feet, spoke of the thoughtfulness and attention of dear 
Madame Chevalier. 

The family at present consists of three gentleman-board- 
ers, all Americans; two doctors, one from Philadelphia, the 
other from Brookline, who have arrived quite recently. The 
one opposite me, who sits in Mr. Lampman's place, is a friend 
of that gentleman and reminds me of him. His name is 
Raymond. Dr. Bernette sits in Mrs. Hubbard's place at my 
right hand, and Mr. Bingham, a friend of Mr. Farnham's, who 
has been here for the past two months, occupies Dr. Dodd's 
place at Madame 's right. 

After dinner we all adjourned to the salon, where coffee 

was served, as in times agone, and where Dr. Bernette joined 

j me in not drinking any. After coffee the gentlemen went out, 

'' and we spent a pleasant evening with Madame Chevalier. 

She showed me a little writing-case furnished with all the 

- necessaries, among which were four small blank books nicely 

bound for accounts, addresses, etc. After this was duly ad- 

[349] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

mired, she brought along a German book of the seasons, ele- 
gantly bound and beautifully illustrated. There were flowers 
for each month, and an accompanying landscape. Monsieur 
Chevalier had not returned when I bade Madame good-night. 

Sunday, March 14 

Awoke this morning to find it snowing in good earnest. 
Rose at half-past eight, and was nearly dressed when cafe 
was announced. Found only Madame and Dr. Bernette at 
table. Monsieur did not return from the station until half- 
past twelve and preferred sleep to cafe. Dr. Raymond, Mr. 
Lamp man's friend, appeared just as we finished, and Mr. 
Bingham not at all. Dr. Bernette has the room adjoining 
ours, formerly occupied by Mr. Lampman, Mr. Bingham, 
Robert's room just opposite, and Dr. Raymond has our old 
room of last winter in the apartment below. 

After cafe dressed for church, breakfasted at half-past 
ten, and went to service in spite of the snow. Dr. Robinson 
preached from Judges 9 :8-15. There were comparatively few 
present, but they were well repaid. The singing was very 
fine, especially the Doxology. Did not go out in the afternoon. 
Madame Chevalier came in to expostulate with me for sitting 
in my room. Dined at six. A Mr. Elliott was here at dinner. 
He has boarded here during the winter and is tutor of the 
terrible Parker infants, whose pranks kept the household in 
a state of continual expectation and trepidation. He was un- 
fortunately ill all the time, and is now in Versailles where his 
health has much improved, but not his French, so says Mon- 
sieur. He speaks very loudly and when at a loss for a word, 
fills up the interval with a long-drawn-out "Ah-h-h," which 
occurs quite frequently. He has been invited to dine here 
every Sunday and will doubtless accept. 

[350] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monday, March 15 

Started at half -past ten for the College de France, calling 
on our way at the banker's. The clerk said interrogatively, 
''I think, Miss Stanton, we have yonr address on our books?" 
I assented, but said that I had since changed it, when he asked 
if I would have the goodness to write it again, which I did 
accordingly by means of two wretched pens, which were just 
twice as bad as one. So I suppose for some time to come I 
shall be deluged with newspapers and magazine advertise- 
ments. Walked on rapidly to the omnibus-bureau, Place de 
Chatelaine. 

In passing along the Rue de Rivoli saw a poor little musi- 
cian with his harp under his arm, crouching down in one of 
the porte-cocheres shivering with cold and looking too forlorn 
and discouraged even to ask for a sou. We were walking with 
such speed that my steps ran faster than my impressions, and 
we had left him some distance behind, when his poor little sad 
face becoming more and more vivid and appealing, I retraced 
my steps and put some sous in his hand, which he received with 
an expression of grateful surprise. 

The places were all taken when we arrived at the College 
excepting those on the speaker's platform. One lady was 
seated in a chair close to the door waiting to pop in when it 
should open, and as I placed myself beside her, we entered into 
a very pleasant conversation. Presently the gardien, not 
an ange gardien, for I think he was from the opposite 
direction, passed, looking as if he were searching for some 
pretext to say something terrible, for he is one of the ' ' barking 
dogs ' ' that never bite. On seeing him, the lady turned to me 
and said, "Cet homme est tres-malhonnete, " a remark which 
I think was not lost on him, for just as I was agreeing with 

[351] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

her, he came along, and with his black eyes flashing fire and 
fury, said, "Pourquoi restez-vons ici, Madame? Pensez-vous 
que vous pourriez entrer? II faut vous eloigner! Comment 
pensez-vous qu'on puisse passer avec le passage barricade?" 
and he looked at me at the same time. I told him that we 
were not at all in the passage, at which he added with increased 
fury, ''Oui! vous etes, et si vous restez ici, je vous assure, je 
ne vous laisserai pas entrer aujourd'hui du tout; vous allez 
voir!" and as if to add force to his words, he took off the 
door-knob and putting it into his pocket, started off to get 
a glass of water to place upon the speaker's table, while we 
remained in our seats, stoically indifferent to his threats. On 
returning and seeing us still there he added, ' ' Je suppose que 
vous croyez que je vous laisserai entrer, mais je vous responds 
que non!" and he disappeared through the door, where he 
presently reappeared driving in front of him a gentleman who 
had smuggled himself in and had been listening to the remarks 
of the ' ' Prof esseur ' ' then occupying the chair. The ' ' guardian ' ' 
was scolding furiously and saying, ''Jamais y entrer!" The 
gentleman only responded laughingly, "Vous etes mechant!" 
an assertion which was flatly contradicted by the person ac- 
cused. Just then cheers of applause announced that the lec- 
turer had finished, and directly after he had departed, the 
gardien appeared, and opening the door, turned to us in the 
politest manner possible and said, "Entrez, mesdames, mais 
vous ne trouverez point de place ! " Of course there was room 
enough, as we were the first who entered. 

Made the acquaintance of a young Polish lady who is 
very pretty but delicate-looking, very fair with light blue 
eyes, who reminded me much of Susie Moore. She invited 
me to remain to the lecture of Monsieur Philarete Chasles, 
which took place at three o'clock, but I had other plans, 

[352] 




La Sainte Chappelle 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and we parted with the mutual wish that we should meet 
again. 

Mirabeau flourished most conspicuously in the lecture 
Monsieur Laboulaye reading largely from his works. The 
ladies escaped to-day with only a slight sarcasm relative to 
crinoline, which he used as an illustration. After the lecture 
visited La Sainte Chapelle, belonging to the Palais de Justice 
when that building served as a residence of the Kings of 
France. The sides of the structure are almost entirely of 
colored glass. Unfortunately, the day was somber, and we did 
not see it in the full splendor of sunshine, when it must be 
gorgeous beyond description. 

Went out through the Palais de Justice where we stopped 
to admire the statue of Malesherbes, Counsellor of Louis XYI. 
Visited the treasures of Notre Dame where we saw the corona- 
tion robes of Napoleon I. and the cushion upon which rested 
the crown before he placed it upon his head. These cushions 
are of crimson velvet upon which the Arms of France are 
elegantly embroidered in gold. The wax taper held by the 
Duchess d'Albe, sister of the Empress, during the baptism 
of the present Prince Imperial was kept in the same cup- 
board with various other articles of less interest. In another 
cupboard were the robes of Pope Pius VIL, worn by him at 
the Coronation of Napoleon I. There were also various 
vessels of gold inlaid with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sap- 
phires and other precious stones, gifts from priests, 
sovereigns and private individuals. Here was the largest 
ivory crucifix in the world, a large image of the Sainte Vierge 
and r Enfant Jesu; a golden shrine in which is the real 
crown of thorns !( ?) ; a large piece of the real cross and one 
of the nails used at the Crucifixion. The crown of thorns 

[353] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



I 



was purchased by Saint Louis of one of the Kings of Jeru 
salem, who was in great need of money and was therefore 
induced to part with the sacred relic. It was placed by 
Saint Louis in the Sainte Chapelle from whence it v/as after- 
wards taken and added to the treasures of Notre Dame. 

When the high dignitaries in the Roman Catholic church 
die, they bequeathe their official robes to Notre Dame, where 
they are kept in large, semi-circular drawers, which were 
turned out and their contents exposed to our astonished 
gaze. Such marvels of embroidery ! Pictures in colored silk 
and gold-thread on velvet grounds! We left Notre Dame, 
pausing a minute on the parvis to regard the curious device 
which forms a part of the carved stone-work of the facade. 
It is a pair of scales in which is placed on one side the Infant 
Jesus and on the other a little imp. This weighing is 
superintended by an Angel and the Devil. Notwithstanding 
the combined efforts of numerous little imps underneath, 
assisted by the great Devil to make their little relative 
weigh down, the scale falls on the other side. 

Our next visit was to Le Temple, one of the most amus- 
ing and entertaining places in this city of sights. It is a 
large sort of market, the pavilions covering a space of 
45,000 feet, and containing over 2000 shops — quite a city 
of itself with streets and avenues. All the shops of any 
account in Paris are represented here on a smaller scale. All 
sorts of merchandise are sold, from old shoes to hats, in- 
cluding all the intermediate articles of dress, from spick and 
span new to first, second, thirdhand, everything that can be 
thought of for use or ornament in all lines, housekeeping and 
otherwise, may be found here. Ball-dresses of silk and satin 
trimmed with lace, which have been worn once or twice, are 
sent here to be sold. This miniature city is covered with 

[354] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

glass, and its streets and avenues, which cross each other at 
right angles, are lined on either side with tiny shops, each 
furnished with its own special articles for sale ; one with 
hats, caps, bonnets and ribbons, another v/ith dresses, another 
with shoes, another with housekeeping-articles and so one, 
each one guarded and superintended by a girl or a woman. 
On entering y/e were assailed on all sides as we passed along, 
sometimes by the merchants in their doors, who would even 
follow us for a short distance along the street, and again by 
those in their windows, v/ho would pop their heads out, hav- 
ing caught a glimpse of us as they sat within their little 
shops. ''Que voulez-vous, Madame?" ''Mais demandez done, 
Madame!" "Que cherchez-vous, Madame?" "Dites done, 
Madame ! " " Que desirez-vous, Madame ? " " Parlez Madame ! ' ' 
"Entrez chez nous Madame!" "Ne vous faut-il pas un joli 
chapeau, Madame?" "Mais vous n'achetez done rien, 
Madame!" We responded but were soon tired of that and 
walked stoically along through the different streets, when, 
having seen this establishment to our satisfaction, we left 
and emerged into the Rue du Temple. We were reminded of 
the description in "Les Mysteres de Paris" of the visit of 
Rodolphe and Rigolette to the same place on a commission 
for the benefit of the Morel family. 

We next went to Monsieur Levasseur's Ecole de Dessin 
on the Rue Ste. Elizabeth, where we had engaged to call 
for Francine Ducrot. Found her in company with a dozen 
or more young ladies, copying a statue of a Venus de Milo. 
The room was filled with various statues, busts, and models 
for designing. The seats are circular, in three rows, rising 
one above the other. Francine occupied one in the center of 
the middle row and looked quite queenly in the midst of her 
companions. Miss Cameron had just left ; so we did not have 

[355] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the pleasure of seeinig her. At four o 'clock, — it was nearly 
four when we arrived, — the young ladies put up their 
drawings and went home. Madame Levasseur entered just 
before with some friends, and after speaking with her an 
instant we followed Francine who led the way to the different 
rooms. This is the largest establishment of the kind in Paris 
and has about four hundred pupils, young ladies in the day- 
time and young gentlemen in the evening. In the sculpture 
department, we saw busts in different stages of progress, 
made from a clay which is soft and pliable when moist but 
which becomes harder than stone on exposure to the air. 
These unfinished busts were covered with wet towels while 
awaiting the labors of the next day. In the hall met Madame 
Levasseur, who invited us into her husband's studio, where 
we were presented to the ''Pere" and ''Mere Mauran," the 
parents of Monsieur Levasseur, of whom I had often heard 
Francine speak. The "Pere Mauran" in a dressing-gown 
and smoking-cap was entertaining some of his friends, but 
rose as we entered, and after making une petite observation to 
Francine, adjourned with them and ''Mere Mauran" to 
another room. We made the tour of the studio, which is 
adorned with various drawings in crayon and lithographs, by 
Monsieur Levasseur. One in crayon copied from a picture 
in the Louvre, was so exquisitely done that I could scarcely 
believe it was not a fine steel-engraving, for which I mistook 
it, even on a close examination. Some shells, drawn and 
lithographed, hung upon the walls, all perfect copies from 
Nature, some of them with a delicate transparent look, some 
with their pearly interiors so truly represented that they 
seemed to glisten as the light fell upon them. On the easel 
was an unfinished portrait of an Italian lady in a blue head- 
dress, beside which a box of paints stood open. A portrait of 

[356] 




Mr. Bingham 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Madame Levasseur and another in crayon of tlieir youngest 
son, Albert, hung upon the wall. As we stood admiring a 
little picture, we were startled by the notes of a cuckoo 
that popped out from a little house in the clock to announce 
half-past four. So, thanking Madame Levasseur for her 
kindness, we bade her adieu and started for home. Found it 
raining, or rather, "spitting," so instead of walking, as we 
had intended, we concluded to take an omnibus. Fortu- 
nately, on arriving at the bureau, we found one with just 
three places left, and took it at once. On the way home 
Francine gave me an account of the manner in which she 
had been treated at the Chapoteaus', Paul's rudeness etc., 
which she thinks will put an end to the intercourse between 
the two families. Arrived home in season to dress for dinner. 
Directly after dinner, Mr. Bingham took the train for 
London, where he is going to witness the Cambridge and 
Oxford Regatta and expects to be absent several days. He 
politely offered to perform any commission I might have for 
him. I thanked him for his kindness, of which I had no need 
to avail myself. Monsieur Chevalier accompanied him to 
the station. Retired early, being very weary after my 
adventurous day. 

Tuesday, March 16 

Did not go out to-day. Took a dictee from the "Hotel 
de Ville" and read from "Un Voyage autour de mon Jardin" 
by Alphonse Karr. In the evening attended Dr. Milburn's 
lecture on "What a blind man saw in England." Made 
arrangements with Madame to send some one for us at the 
close of the lecture, but Dr. Raymond was going ; so we went 
together. The lecture was excellent, exceedingly enter- 
taining, and one of the most peculiar mental productions I 

[357] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

M 

ever listened to ; a combination of blank verse, poetry and wit. 
One could get no idea whatever of the whole from any of 
its parts. He says it is a pilgrimage to enter into an 
Englishman's heart. First you must gain his attention ; then 
his interest, his respect, his esteem, his confidence, his re- 
gard, his friendship ; and once a friend, he is a firm one upon 
whom you can rely. He will, if one may be allowed the ex- 
pression, hold on to you till the last button gives v/ay, and 
when that is gone, he will throv/ his arms about your neck 
and hold on still. A letter of introduction to an Englishman 
always insures you one dinner at least, where you may be 
sure of the best wine, the best company, and the best enter- 
tainment that it is in his power to provide. He said while in 
London he received a call from, a gentleman to whom he had 
delivered a letter of introduction. As he was about to take his 
leave the Englishman asked, "Will you dine with me next 
Saturday?" — ''Yes, with pleasure. I have no engagement 
for next Saturday ; ' ' but the acceptation was premature, for 
he had not yet finished, and continued, ''next Saturday five 
weeks !" "Why, my dear sir, in five weeks I expect to be in 
— Jerusalem." At first thought, such an invitation would 
seem rather strange, but he knew, as I did not, that his 
friends whom he would invite to be present on the occasion 
to do me honor, were engaged for at least five weeks ahead, 
and he could not in less time than that bring everything 
about to provide for me such an entertainment as he in- 
tended. 

The lecturer gave an interesting account of one of the 
many pleasant evenings he spent with Thomas Carlyle, giv- 
ing a specimen of the conversation of that celebrated man, 
who was the one person above all others that he wished to 
see. After tea, as they sat in the garden with a little round 

[35®] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

table drawn up between tliem upon which were placed the 
tobacco and other appurtenances for smoking;, Dr. Milburn 
remarked, "You seem to be a sufferer from dyspepsia." To 
which his host responded, "Unhappily, I am often reminded 
that I am the possessor of that troublesome organ known as 
the stomach. My father and my grandfather before him, ar- 
rived at their three-score years and ten without experiencing 
the slightest difficulty from being the proprietors of that 
infernal organ, the stomach, and I had lived for five and 
twenty years without being aware that my physical con- 
struction included a stomach." He continued in this strain 
for over five minutes, his voice sometimes attaining an ex- 
ceedingly high upward inflection and then suddenly falling 
to a lower pitch until it seemed to proceed from his very 
boots, when it would rise gradually only to be precipitated 
again into the depths profound. 

The lecturer's description of English character was re- 
markably correct and just, rather raising his subjects in the 
estimation of those who listened, not passing over their 
peculiarities, but when his remarks reached the dangerous 
line that separated pleasantry from ridicule, he would finish 
his sentence so adroitly that the English auditors could not 
take offence, even if their vanity and self esteem were not 
positively flattered. At home in reading the Parliamentary 
debates he vv^as always at a loss in what manner to interpret 
the "Hear! Hear! Hear!" which occurred every now and 
then. He always supposed it to be a mark of applause, and 
that what went before was probably something beyond his 
ability to comprehend, the brilliancy of which was perfectly 
clear and comprehensible to those upon the spot, who thus 
expressed their appreciation. But, since listening for him- 
self, he had come to the conclusion that it was uttered upon 

[359] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the mutual-assistance principle, as he always remarked that 
when a member was particularly troubled for a word, hesi- 
tating and stammering more than usual, the others would 
cry out ''Hear! Hear! Hear!" as if to encourage him to 
persevere; as sometimes at home in the spring of the year, 
when the roads are difficult to travel, the wheel of a heavy 
team creaks and turns with difficulty until finally it is com- 
pletely stuck in the mud, and the laborers, coming to the 
rescue and putting their shoulders to the wheel shout out 
encouragingly, " Yo ! Heave ho ! " 

Arrived home just before ten and retired immediately. 
Dr. Raymond thumped once or twice upon the door leading 
to Dr. Bemette's chamber, but receiving no response, that 
gentleman being asleep, he went downstairs to his own room. 

Wednesday, March 17 

Snowy and cold. Read, recited and wrote a dictee from 
the ''Hotel de Ville." In the salon coffee was served as 
usual, after which the gentlemen went out; but just before 
going. Dr. Raymond proposed a conundrum: "Why is a 
United States greenback more valuable than gold?" Be- 
cause you double it on putting it into your pocket and on 
taking it out you find it in creases. 

Sat up until nearly midnight talking with Madame. 
She told me about the boarders she had this winter. They 
Iiave been accustomed to play cards for money, and Madame 
rsees nothing wrong in it, as it was not the money they cared 
for, the highest sum never exceeding ten sous. A young Mr. 
Warren that was here, often suggested playing for a larger 
sum, but the others would not agree to it. Monsieur Cheva- 
lier came in just before midnight; so we said "Bonne nuit" 
and retired. 

[360] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Thursday, March 18 

Learned the fable of ^'Le cerf se voyant dans I'eau," 
besides nearly two pages of grammar, and after reciting my 
lesson and writing a dictee, started with EUie to visit the 
Eglise St. Augustine. Dr. Raymond thinks it the handsomest 
church he was ever in. I was rather disappointed in it. It 
reminds me of Dr. Milburn's lecture, being decidedly pecu- 
liar. It had a fresh, clean, new look, having been recently 
finished, and the architecture is stiffly graceful, if such a 
thing is possible. Along the sides are thirty-two alcoves, six- 
teen on each side, eight above and eight below. Most of the 
lower ones are occupied as confessionals. The dome is magni- 
ficent, and you seem lost in immensity as you stand under it. 
The choir is at one end, as in Protestant churches and con- 
tains an immense organ. A smaller organ stands just be- 
hind the "Maitre Autel" under the dome, and beyond the 
dome is a chapel hung with blue and dedicated to the Virgin,, 
who is represented in marble v\^ith the Infant in her arms. 
The image occupies a niche behind the altar. There was to 
be a sermon, and the people were entering as we left. The 
little organ seemed to be undergoing a tuning process. Here 
and there were little taper-stands tended by women. The 
tapers are provided by individuals in accordance with certain 
vows which they have made and are given in charge to the. 
woman, who keeps them lighted until they are burned out. 

As we were walking along the Boulevard Haussmann, we 
saw a small crowd collected about something. Thinking it 
was some sort of a magical exhibition, I approached and took 
a glance, and found that a glance was enough. It proved ta 
be a poor old cab-horse in the last stages of existence. A. 

[361] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



1 



broken cab stood near '^witli the air of remorse a cab would 
naturally have at the death of its horse/' 

Started to call on Madame Ducrot, but met Helene on 
the Avenue de I'lmperatrice, who said there was no one at 
home, her mother having gone to call for Francine; so we 
accompanied Helene as far as the Rond Point des Temes, 
whence we returned home. Just before dinner the troupe of 
singers to which belongs the woman with the v/onderful voice, 
who used to enchant us last winter, came into the neighboring 
court and performed several pieces, one of the men playing 
the accompaniments on a harp. The sotis rained down from 
all sides, and if they are as well received everywhere they go 
as they are here, they will soon accumulate a fortune. 

To-day Madame brought in a letter which she asked me to 
translate into French for her, as it contained some commissions 
which she did not understand very well. It ran as follows: 
''Please send the envelope; put a stamp on it; with the white 
lace to Miss D. and give the one with the black lace to Miss E. 
The little cloak take yourself to Mile. A. 61 Rue des E curies 
d'Artois. Tell her to take out the lining and return it and 
have the merino colored a handsome scarlet ; then line it with 
a pretty white silk and arrange it the way it now is, with 
a little capote and put a white silk cord with tassels on the 
neck. Tell her it is for Sarah to throw over her shoulders 
on a warm evening; Sarah thought she should like it and I 
can get it done better and cheaper by sending it to you than 
I can here. Tell her to bring it to you when finished, and you 
bring it when you come. Pay, of course. Mother." 

" Envoy ez, s'il vous plait I'enveloppe; mettez-y un timbre 
poste avec la dentelle blanche, a Miss D. et donnez I'une avee 
la dentelle noire a Miss E. Portez vous-meme le petit manteau 
a Mile. A. 61 Rue des Ecuries d'Artois. Dites-lui d'oter la 

[362] . 







Dr. Raymond 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

doublure et de la rendre, et de faire teindre le merinos d'une 
belle ecarlate, et puis de le doubler d'une jolie sole blanche et 
de I'arranger de la meme facon qu'a present, avec une petite 
capote, et de mettre un cordon a glands de sole blanche au cou. 
Dites-lui qu'il est pour Sarah de mettre sur ses epaules les 
soirees quand il fait chaud. Sarah pensait qu'elle I'aimerait, 
et je puis le faire faire mieux et a meilleur marche en vous 
I'envoyant qu'ici. Dites-lui de vous I'apporter quand il sera 
fini, et apportez-le quand vous viendrez. Payez, bien entendu. 
Mere." 

I have discovered that Dr. Raymond very much resembles 
Louis in his manner of speaking. He has the same dry way. In 
serving the coffee Madame let fall the sugar-tongs which he 
hastened to pick up. He performed the act without bending his 
knee, merely bending his body and reaching out his hand, while 
one of his legs flew up sternly behind as a balancing pov/er. The 
tongs in his hand, he knelt on one knee, the other leg stretching 
far out behind, and presented them to Madame in the most 
courtly manner, while the spectators of the little impromptu 
laughed most immoderately. Played a game of whist, my 
partner being Monsieur Chevalier, while Madame and Dr. 
Raymond officiated as opposition. Our side beat every time. 
Poor Madame was, as usual, much distressed in looking over 
her cards, between the deals exclaiming, "Quelle horreur!" 
or " Ce n 'est pas permis ! " " Je suis desolee ! ' ' Louise and la 
Mere Topin called to deliver a message from the Ducrots. 
Madame Chevalier remarked in alluding to Madame Ducrot, 
''What you tell me of Madame Ducrot gives me much pain. 
You did well to advise her to go to the priest, he will set her 
right in a few minutes." What sort of a character is that 
Madame that can have a belief changed by some one else 
in a few minutes and a belief so important ? This was apropos 

[363] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of a conversation one evening, with Madame Chevalier about 
Roman Catholicism versus Protestantism. Madame had said : 
' ' You protestants have so many different beliefs — there are 
Methodists, Baptists, Congregationalists, and others — but our 
church, the Roman Catholic, has but one belief and is the only 
true church." I suggested that the Protestant sects differed ■ 
only in non-essentials, the essential belief being the same, and I 
the differences are not so great as in Madame Ducrot's case. 
Perhaps if the Roman Catholic Church were as careful in their 
investigations they might find more cases of dissension, leading 
to what practically could be regarded as different sects in the 
' ' one true Church. ' ' 

Friday, March 19 

Rainy. Rose as usual at a quarter before eight. After 
cafe wrote letters until half -past eleven, the hour for dejeuner. 
Recited, wrote a dictee, and read in ''Un Voyage autour de 
mon Jardin." Wrote until half-past four, when we dressed 
ourselves for a call at Madame Ducrot's. It was raining a 
little when we started, but before we had accomplished half 
the distance it began to pour in torrents, and the wind blew 
so hard that I could scarcely hold the umbrella; so we were 
quite wet on arriving at Madame Ducrot's. Found her and 
the cocotte in the little chamber we used to occupy, with a 
bright fire burning in the grate. Cocotte seemed delighted to 
see me to-day and hastened to perch himself on my finger i 
where he bowed low two or three times, saying "Bon jour, 
bon jour" and holding up his bill for a kiss. Madame said 
he missed me very much the first two or three days after I 
went away, and would sit silent and dejected, perched on the 
outside of his cage. While I was here, Francine arrived drip- 

[364] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ping wet. We were obliged to prolong our call on account of 
the rain and did not start for home until after six. Dinner was 
waiting ; so hastily smoothing our hair, we entered the dining- 
room, where we met Madame, who told us to go and change 
our dresses or we should surely take cold, and as Dr. Bernette 
had not come in, she would wait dinner until we were ready, 
and in the meantime possibly Mr. Bingham would arrive from 
London. Neither of the gentlemen, however, appeared, and 
we adjourned after dinner as usual to the salon, where Mon- 
sieur, after doing the honors in the cafe line, offering me a 
cup which I always refused in my stereotyped speech of ''Pas 
ce soir, je vous remercie,"^ — sank into the depths of an easy- 
chair and called out, ' ' Sho — Shosephine ! " — he usually 
makes two attempts upon the first syllable of her name, which 
seems difficult for him to pronounce, — ''apportez ma pipe." 
Dr. Raymond descended to his chamber to study until 
eight o'clock, at which hour we arranged to have a whist 
party. Dr. Bernette came in soon after. He had dined with 
some friends and had been over the new Opera House in com- 
pany with some celebrated architects. He says the building 
will not be completed for four years yet, and it has been 
already six years in building. He describes it as ''Splendid! 
Magnificent!" Our whist party formed at eight. Dr. Ray- 
mond and Madame were jubilant over their victory, while 
Monsieur and I bore the reverses of fortune gracefully. It 
was my fault entirely that we did not beat, for I played con- 
tinually against my partner, and for the other side, and poor 
Monsieur found that three against one was too much even for 
his skill to counteract. He expostulated with me but once, 
saying, "II ne faut pas jouer a tort et a travers, Mademoi- 
selle," and then left me to my own heedlessness. 

[365J 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



Is I 



Saturday y March 20 

Rainy. Business affairs in the morning. Received calls 
from le cordonnier, la hlanchisseuse, and la teintiiriere, the 
one to take our measure for several pairs of shoes, and the 
others to bring our clothes home from the wash, with some 
flannels that had been cleansed. Recited "Le Vieillard et 
TAne," two pages of grammar, a verb, and wrote a dictee. 
Had company to dinner. Col. and Madame Rogier. Madame 
Chevalier was more elaborately dressed than I ever saw her 
before. She wore a black silk with a sort of pelerine of black 
velvet over her shoulders, black velvet bracelets on her arms, 
numerous rings on her fingers, jet earrings and pin, and a 
black lace headdress with purple satin ribbons. Madame 
Rogier is a pretty little black-eyed lady perfectly frangaise 
and much younger than her husband. Madame Chevalier 
says before the Colonel was married, he was in the habit of 
drinking to excess, and was often gris, so that it seemed to be 
a fixed habit, but since his marriage eight years ago, he has 
entirely changed, drinking only le vin ordinaire, excepting on 
state occasions, when he partakes of the stronger liquors very 
sparingly, always regarding his wife's wishes, when she ex- 
presses them to the effect that he has taken enough. Madame 
Rogier was only eighteen years old when he married her, tak- 
ing her from school where she had been since she was four 
years old, utterly inexperienced, an orphan, but with an im- 
mense fortune. From his position as an army officer, she 
was obliged to go more or less into society, give grand dinners 
and now knows how to manage affairs remarkably well. She 
wore a black silk, and on her black hair a scarlet velvet ribbon, 
which was exceedingly becoming. They had breakfasted en 
ville and the tempting dishes that came from Madame 's kitchen 

[366] 



MY LIFE IN" PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

seemed rather lost on them. For the first course there was 
soup a la Julienne; then a pate composed of mushrooms and 
crabs, the crabs all in the shell, looking so lifelike and 
ferocious that I did not venture to attack one ; third, chicken, 
with potatoes, epinard^, followed by a salade a St. Honore, a 
sort of patisserie which melts in the mouth, oranges and a 
variety of small confections of different shapes and colors. 
The Colonel partook very sparingly of the fine wines and 
champagne which Monsieur urged upon him with French hos- 
pitality. After dinner Col. Rogier, offering me his arm, es- 
corted me to the salon where coffee was served for the ladies, 
Monsieur and the Colonel returning to the salle-a-manger to 
enjoy their pipes, cognac, and coffee together. After her 
guests had gone, Madame came into our room and stayed more 
than an hour, talking of a variety of things too numerous to 
mention. I put a spear of my hair into a little gold heart 
attached to one of Madame 's rings; she, doubting the possi- 
bility of accomplishing the feat, promised to give me a merle 
hlanc (a white blackbird), if I succeeded. When I demanded 
my reward, she said, ' ' Since there is not in the world a merle 
hlanc, that promise is never expected to be kept. ' ' 

Sunday, March 21 

Dr. Bemette accompanied us to church. He says he has 
many Quaker relatives. Dr. Robinson preached from Acts 
1:11. He expressed his belief that there are at least three 
human bodies in heaven and probably many more. I saw 
Mrs. Gleason after the service, who says she expects to start 
for Marseilles to-morrow on her way to Italy, to be gone about 
three months. It rained, and while Dr. Bernette was gone for 
a carriage, Dr. Raymond came and offered us his umbrella, 
saying he was going to walk home with a friend and should not 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

need it. While we stood talking at the chapel door, Dr. Ber- 
nette drove up in the carriage, jumped out, and while he held 
the door open. Dr. Robinson politely escorted us down the 
steps. Just after we arrived at home, Madame came to invite 
us to take coffee with her in her chamber, an extra, as we 
do not usually have coffee after service. Attended the Sunday 
School concert in the afternoon. Met many persons carrying 
branches of palms, this being ' ' Dimanche des Rameaux. ' ' The 
horses' heads were also trimmed. Madame had in her room 
a large vase of palms which had been blessed by the priest. 
She said she observed to-day in one part of the church service 
where all should kneel and kiss the ground, that the elegantly 
dressed ladies did not kneel very low, and she was sorry to 
see it. 

The concert was very interesting. The first gentleman 
who addressed the children offered to give the little red book 
he held in his hand to the one who would tell him the reason 
why he liked to talk to children. Several reasons were thus 
drawn out, but the one who gained the prize said it was be- 
cause he liked to be talked to when he was a child. Dr. Robin- 
son interested them in his own peculiar, original and happy 
way, in which he cannot be excelled, by asking them questions 
on Bible history. They learned that the name Elijah signifies 
''The Lord is Grod," and every time ''LORD" occurs in the 
Bible in small capitals it means "Jehovah." He had given 
them certain questions, the answers to which they were to find 
out, and he began by asking how many had found them out 
without assistance; then, hesitating a moment, said, "I've a 
good mind to ask how many have not tried at all, but I think 
I won't. We won't suppose there are any here that have not 
tried at all." He finished his remarks by introducing Dr. 
J. G. Holland, who has consented to officiate as superintendent 

[368] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

of the Sunday School while he remains in Paris, probably for 
three months or so. 

Dr. Holland spoke for about half an hour, giving a little 
history of his travels in Italy during the past winter. 
He spoke of the wretchedness and poverty he met with, 
especially in Naples, notwithstanding there were eight thou- 
sand priests and three hundred churches. At Rome he 
saw the Pope, who was brought in on the shoulders of the 
people, preceded by soldiers with drums and trumpets, and 
looked like a great idol. Dr. Holland was very unhappy all 
the time he was in Rome and left the city without regret. 
Venice is a wonderful city, a city in the sea. Not a horse in 
the streets ; the streets are all canals ; one steps out of his front 
door into a boat. 

Dr. Raymond sat in front of us with his friend. Dr. 
Storey, who took coffee with him between services. Dined at 
six, as usual. It is so nice to have the meals so regular and 
exact. Cafe at half-past eight, dejeuner at half-past eleven, 
and dmer at six. Madame Chevalier's housekeeping arrange- 
ments move like clock-work. 

In the evening the conversation took a theological turn. 
Mr. Bingham said something about adoring images, which 
shocked Madame, who said, ''Oh, they never do that! That 
cannot be ! " I had at that time a Catholic prayer-book in my 
hand, and my eyes fell upon these words, "L^ adoration de la 
Croix," which I read aloud. Madame seemed to regard that 
as quite a different thing. Christ had suffered upon it, and it 
was right to adore it, and she said she always felt like falling 
upon her knees before one who had suffered a great deal. Here 
she was interrupted by Monsieur, who, in the depths of an 
easy-chair had been listening to the conversation behind his 
pipe, exclaimed, ' ' Dis done, Marianne, j 'ai bien souf f ert depuis 

[369] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

mon marriage ; mets-toi a genoux devant moi ! ' ' The conver- 
sation was turned upon buckwheat cakes, and soon after, I 
said "Good night" and went to bed. 

Monday, March 22 

Did not recite my lesson, as Monsieur was engaged with 
Count Mniszech. Eead and studied. Madame came in to show 
me the waist of her new black silk dress, which is very 
prettily trimmed with black lace and satin. Before dinner I 
went into the salon to sit with Madame, and presently Dr. 
Bernette came in to exhibit some of his purchases and after- 
wards sat down by the fire and talked until dinner was served. 
Dr. Raymond dined with some friends. After dinner Mr. 
Bingham served coffee ; that seems to be his special duty. 

The gentlemen have all had their pictures taken to-day 
at Levitsky's. Dr. Bernette showed us some photographs 
he had taken in Berlin, the finest specimens of the art that 
I have ever seen. He gave one to Madame. I wanted one 
but did not like to ask for it. Madame offered to officiate 
for me after he had left the room, but I was not enough 
acquainted with him to warrant such a request. Madame 
exclaimed, "There is some difference between you and Miss 
Roberts, who asked all the gentlemen for their pictures!" 
Miss Roberts, I should think, was a curious sort of individual. 
She told the gentlemen here to call her "Bob," and Monsieur 
Chevalier, in speaking of her, has several times used that 
diminutive, though he is too much of a gentleman to call her 
so to her face, notwithstanding she has particularly requested 
it. He always called her "Mees Roberts," but at last yielded 
to her objections sufficiently to say "Mees Bob," and after 
that she said, "Now without the Miss, call me Bob for 
short" So now he calls her "Bob-tout-court." She has 

[370] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

announced her intention to dine here to-morrow. She came 
from Jamaica to England when she was ten years old, and 
now she gives lessons in music in this city. 

Worked on my worsted embroidery. The gentlemen are 
curious to know to what use it is to be put when it is finished, 
as they think it is too large for a toilet-cushion and too small 
for a chair-cushion, Mr. Bingham is astonished that I have 
no pattern to guide me, but Madame explained to him that, 
after the first row, there was nothing more to do but to put 
in the shades, which seemed to quiet relieve his mind. 

Tuesday, March 23 

It has been a lovely day. It is now half-past four, and 
I have recited my lesson, which consisted of two pages and a 
half of grammar, mot pour raot, and the fable of ^'Le Lievre 
et la Tortue," besides a dictee. Bllie sits at the other window, 
alternately netting a bag of hemp-twine to boil eggs in, and 
knitting some moss trimmings for Madame 's flower-pots, 
delighted to have something interesting to do v/hich will not 
trouble her eyes. 

Upon the table beside me is a little vase filled with 
violets and several other kinds of flowers, yellow and white, 
the names of which are unknown to me; Madame brought 
them in. 

Prince Leon dined and spent the evening here. 
Madame sometimes makes mistakes in speaking, and Mon- 
sieur amuses himself in correcting her. She was expatiating 
upon the head of wine vs. water, and said, ''I think that when 
water is pure, it is all that is necessary for the drink of man, 
and I shall never forget a glass of water I once drank when 
I was nine years old; I enjoyed it so much." ''Mais quand 
I'eau est mauvais comme {^^ze^' interrupted Monsieur from his 

[371] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

side of the table). Madame smiled consciously and con- 
tinued, ''Comme a Paris, je trouve que le vin est beaucoup 
meilleur pour la sante. Je crois que si les cboses com- 
passees etaient necessaires, Dieu les aurait fait": — ^Hes/* 
suggested Monsieur again, when Madame exclaimed laugh- 
ingly as she rose from the table, '^11 aime me corriger tou- 
jours." 

In the salon after cafe the gentlemen engaged in a game 
of whist. Monsieur Leon enjoyed his cigar alone, as none of 
the others smoked. Madame Chevalier and I were busied 
with our embroideries and knitting, while Ellie arranged the 
moss for the flower-pots. Late in the evening, Madame 
brought in some vin ordinaire heated, spiced, and served in 
little glasses. Dr. Raymond and I cast deprecating glances 
at each other when we received it, as we were the only 
total (?) abstainers present. We Americans all agreed that 
it tasted exactly like mince-pies. 

Wednesday, March 24 

Bright and cold. The gentlemen took their coffee earlier 
than usual, the ''Medical Faculty" wishing to be in season at 
the hospital. Ellie and I took ours alone later, Madame having 
gone to market. Studied and read until dejeuner. Miss Poul- 
ters, an English lady, governess to the Princess Sonlkoska 
came to-day to spend four days with Madame Chevalier. She 
is in Paris to perform some commissions for the Princess, 
who is at Cannes. She is very pretty, ladylike and accom- 
plished, speaks French perfectly and German very well. While 
we were at dejeuner a woman called to show some specimens 
of lingerie to Mademoiselle Stanton. She was sent into 
Madame 's cham-ber to wait, but as I knew I should not buy 
anything, I thought I would go at once and send her away; 

[372-] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

but she kept me with her winning ways, until she had ex- 
hibited the contents of a large green box in her hand. 

While I was reciting my lesson, I was interrupted by a call 
from Madame Ducrot, who stayed nearly an hour. After her 
departure, finished my lesson and dressed for dinner. Played 
whist in the evening, Mr. Bingham and I against Dr. Bernette 
with Miss Poulters, Monsieur Chevalier sitting at my elbow 
and making suggestions for my benefit. At the end of the first 
game, our little cimetiere did not look very gay, but we gained 
all the time afterwards, which was the more remarkable, as 
Monsieur Chevalier went down into the cave to arrange his 
wines, leaving me to my own resources. Miss Poulters is 
doing a very handsome piece of worsted work. At about 
nine o'clock Dr. Raymond came up from his room, where he 
usually spends his evenings in study, and the conversation 
turned upon travels in Switzerland, the dangers in climbing 
mountains, etc. Retired at about eleven. 

Thursday, March 25 

Clear and very cold. This is Holy Week, and there are 
many ceremonies observed at this time in the Catholic 
Church. Madame Ducrot had invited us to accompany her 
to-day to witness some of them. After dejeuner Ellie went to 
Madame Ducrot 's, and after my lesson Monsieur went with 
me to the Duchesse de Berghes', Ave. Cours la Reine, where I 
had arranged to call for Madame. On arriving, sent word 
to her by the concierge that I was waiting, after which Mon- 
sieur and I promenaded up and down the sidewalk until she 
made her appearance. We met in the meantime the two sons 
of the Duchesse, one of them, the young Prince de Berghes, a 
great favorite of Madame 's who is very handsome. They 
stopped to shake hands and speak to Monsieur Chevalier, lifting 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

their hats in recognition of my presence, an act which they re- 
peated a short time after, as Monsieur incidentally men- 
tioned my name. Just after they entered the house, Madame 
appeared, and we all three walked to the Eglise St. Philippe 
du Route on the Faubourg St. Honore, Monsieur leaving us 
just before we arrived there, to go to Prince Leon. 

To-day in all the churches there is what is called a ' ' Tom- 
beau, ' ' that is, a representation of the place where Christ was 
buried. It is usually in a chapel in a remote part of the church. 
We visited five others, St. Augustine, La Trinite, La Madeleine, j 
and St. Roch, besides a less pretentious one whose name I 1' 
have forgotten. We succeeded in obtaining a coup d'oeil of 
the Tombeau at St. Augustine, but v/ith difficulty on account 
of the great crowd; this was rather provoking after our 
laborious descent of the stairs, for the chapel was in the 
basement of the church. The most beautiful one was at the 
Madeleine, though unlike the others it was not in the dark, 
but in one of the little side-chapels which form a part of the 
body of the church. I will describe only the one at ,St. 
Phillippe, as it was the first we entered and will serve as a 
model for the rest. We encountered, as usual, at the door, 
the man holding the brush wet with holy-water, after touch- 
ing which, Madame devoutly crossed herself. We preceded 
directly to the Tombeau, v/hich was in a small chapel com- 
municating with the church. It was darkened and at the 
farther extremity we could distinguish numerous candles, i 
Yv^e passed down the aisle and found seats directly in front, 
where the view was unobstructed. Behind some curtains of 
red velvet, gracefully looped up, was a carpeted enclosure. 
In the background high above the altar was a large cross, 
over the arms of which was thrown a strip of white cloth 
market I. H. S., as we often see represented in pictures. The 

[374] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

altar and the steps leading to it, as well as the floor, were 
covered with shrubs and pots of flowers, while numerous 
lighted tapers were disposed in a manner to produce the most 
beautiful effect. Upon each side of the entrance to this en- 
closure was stationed a small boy in a white gown, who had 
in charge a large bronze crucifix lying in a horizontal posi- 
tion in front of him. These images were kissed upon the feet, 
hands and heart, by the different worshippers as they passed 
along, the boy wiping them with a cloth after each embrace. 
Some of the people hurried through the performance in any- 
thing but a devotional manner; while others, like Madame, 
performed the ceremony solemnly and devoutly. 

At the Madeleine, to prevent confusion in the crowd, 
sergeants de ville were stationed at different places in the 
church, to direct the people in regard to the route to be 
taken, in order to see what was to be seen. 

From here took a carriage a Uheure to St. Eoch. Here 
we stopped for a few minutes at one of the side-cliapels to 
witness a baptism, and after visiting the Toniheaii returned 
home, where we arrived just before six o'clock. Ellie en- 
tered soon after, having visited the Pantheon, the churches 
St. Honore, St. Etienne du Mont, and St. Sulpice with 
Madame Ducrot and Francine, besides making with them a 
call upon the Comtesse Marguerite de la Grangerie. I did not 
feel very tired until dinner was about half over when tout a 
coup, my strength departed and I had not force enough to 
eat or to speak. I was making my escape from the dining- 
room as quietly as possible, while the others were entering 
the salon, when Monsieur spied me and called out, "Made- 
moiselle, est-ce que vous n'entrez pas au salon?" I gave an 
evasive answer and went to my room, where I was sound 
asleep in five minutes. 

[375] 



1 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



Friday, March 26 

I was so weary with my exertions of yesterday that I did 
not rise until just before dejeuner. Had no lesson to-day, as 
Monsieur has a conge. Looked over Mr. Bingham's stere- 
opticon-viev/s, which he has collected in Italy, Switzerland, 
and Germany. Read in "Les Mysteres de Paris" until 
dinner-time when Dr. Bernette came in with a new lot of 
views which he had just purchased. 

After dinner started immediately for Notre Dame with 
Monsieur and Doctors Raymond and Bernette. We pro- 
ceeded to the Champs Elysees, where, after some trouble, we 
succeeded in securing a voiture a quatre places, those with two 
places being much more numerous. Admired the brilliantly 
lighted avenues as we passed along, and all agreed that no 
city in the world (except Manchester, N. H.) could compare 
with Paris. We found the great Cathedral nearly full. The 
body of the building was reserved for men, while women 
were obliged to content themselves with seats in the side- 
aisles. We found seats commanding a fine view of one of the 
ponderous columns which hid the pulpit, Pere Felix, and 
everything else not in our immediate vicinity. We sat directly 
in a draft of air, and the "Medical Faculty" took the pre- 
caution to put some white handkerchiefs around their necks. 
Dr. Bernette expressed his regret that he was not settled in 
Paris, in anticipation of the many persons who would probably 
catch cold and be sick. The eloquence of Pere Felix was 
quite lost upon us, as we could hear only a word or two now 
and then, and Dr. Raymond on returning home declared 1 
that he had got more cold than ideas into his head. After 
the sermon the "Stabat Mater" was sung. The chorus of so 
many voices was grand. The services were concluded with 

[376J 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

the procession of the holy relics. These relics consist of a 
piece of la vrcde Croix, the crown of thorns, one of the nails 
used at the crucifixion, etc. They were carried by priests 
and other church dignitaries. Were not sorry when the 
ceremonies were over and we on our way home. Walked to 
the Place du Chatelet before we could find a carriage. In 
passing over the bridge, the doctors, who were in a lively 
mood, suddenly called out ' ' Adieu, a la Morgue ! " at the same 
time making an ominous gesture as if they were going to 
throw themselves into the river. They concluded, however, 
not to sacrifice themselves just then, as they had not seen all 
the interesting sights of Paris. 

As we were passing the Palais de Justice, Monsieur 
suggested singing the Marseillaise, when forthwith Dr. Ber- 
nette began in a clear voice much to the terror of Monsieur, 
who tried to hush him up, as the Marseillaise is a prohibited 
song, and especially dangerous in that particular vicinity. 
After we had proceeded a little farther, Monsieur began sing- 
ing it himself, urging us to join in, which we did, with the ex- 
ception of Dr. Raymond, who said he was not going to "be 
taken up" if the rest of us were. Monsieur told him that he 
might as well join in, for when they came ''to take us up" we 
would all three say it was Dr. Raymond "chant ant tout seul/^ 
I remarked that I would not say so, to which Monsieur re- 
sponded, "Eh, bien! nous dirons que c'est Mademoiselle 
Stanton et Dr. Raymond. ' ' However, Dr. Raymond at length 
joined in, and as each of the gentlemen had a remarkably fine 
voice. Monsieur singing the air, Dr. Bernette the bass. Dr. 
Raymond the tenor, and I the alto, our music was quite charm- 
ing. Then Monsieur and I performed a duet, "L'Etoile qui 
file," with which the others were so delighted that they ex- 
pressed their determination to buy the music and learn it them- 

[377] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

selves. The gentleman sang ^^Les Gueux, les Gueux sant les 
gens heureux" and various other airs, until we arrived at 
irente-cinq. Found Madame with her knitting and Miss 
Poulters with her embroidery in the salon. Some of the gentle- 
men having said they were very thirsty, Madame went out 
and prepared a punch composed of cognac, spice, and v/ater. 
Just after it was passed around, I told them I would say 
good-night before it began to take effect, as I dared not re- 
main in their company any longer; and notwithstanding the 
expostulations of Monsieur, who said they were going to 
sing etc. etc., I suited the action to the word. 

Saturday, March 27 

Madame and Miss Poulters were at church when the 
rest of us arrived in the salle a manger at half-past eight. 
After cafe, went to my room, which I found in the most dire 
confusion, presided over by "Sho — Shozephine" and Marie, 
who were engaged in putting it to rights; so I took my 
grammar to the dining-room where I found the two doctors 
and Mr. Bingham consulting over their photographs v/hich 
they had just received from Levitsky's. All were excellent 
excepting Dr. Bernette's. Presently the gentlemen went 
away and Miss Poulters arrived and sat down to her coffee ; 
soon after Madame came in, and without removing her 
bonnet or cloak sat and talked for at least an hour. She is 
decidedly one of the most fluent talkers I ever heard and one 
of the most intelligent and interesting. 

No subject is introduced that seems new to her or upon 
which she is not competent to converse. Studied until 
dejeuner. Changed hours for recitation with Mr. Bingham for 
to-day, as it was more covenient for both. Recited ''Le 
Charretier Embourbe," two pages of grammar, and the verb 

[^7^ 



i 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

'^sortir," after which I read aloud in '^Un Voyage^' etc. 
Did not go out to walk. Miss Poulter has finished her visit 
here for the present. After dinner, came to my room to write 
until eight o'clock. Just after the clock had struck, Ellie 
came in, saying she had been sent for me. She had told them 
that she believed I was studying. On going into the salon I 
found Madame knitting, and she called me sauvage to run 
away in that way, while Monsieur commenced questioning 
in his usual style. Dr. Bernette informed me that he had pur- 
chased a stereoscopic view of the Champs Elysees. When 
I asked him if he had found one that did not look like a ceme- 
tery with the Arc de Triomphe like a great tomb in the dis- 
tance, he said he thought he had, and went to his room to 
fetch it, when to the amusement of all, it proved to be a view 
of the ''Hotel de Ville!" The doctor laughed at his mistake 
as heartily as any of us, although he was a little bewildered 
at first. He brought also his views of Italy, which were very 
fine. Mr. Bingham coming in soon after, the conversation 
turned upon cathedrals in general and St. Peters in Rome in 
particular. 

Monsieur had difficulty in lighting his pipe, being, as 
usual, beset by Ellie, who embraces like occasions to retaliate 
for various pinches and snaps she has received from time to 
time. 

Madame, in speaking of an eglise used the pronoun, "il," 
when Monsieur suggested that ^^ Eglise" was -^une femme." 

Madame informed us that the negro she admired so 
much she admires no longer. She met him to-day and in- 
quired the news respecting his master's family, the terrible 
Parker infants, and he shocked her by chewing tobacco! 
She thinks it the most disgusting habit she ever knew. Then 
followed a long demi-conversation, demi-discussion of 

[379] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO ,; 

American manners and customs, Mr. Bingham and I on one ' 
side and Dr. Bernette on the other. I think by this time \ 
Madame 's ideas must be rather confused in regard to the' 
customs of our country. There is a report to-day that I 
Andrew Johnson is dead, which was contradicted in this ■ 
evening's papers, though they say he is very ill. j 

Sunday, March 28 | 

Accompanied Madame Chevalier and Monsieur to the i 
church on the Rue Chaillot where we saw Queen Isabella of | 
Spain and the rest of the Royal family. The Queen has! 
purchased a hotel on the Avenue du Roi de Rome, and con- j 
sequently this is the church of the parish to which she be- 1 
longs. It is quite large and pretentious. Over the arch \ 
which separates the altar from the body of the church, is a { 
representation of God sitting upon the throne, with a lamb in ; 
front, and at the sides the f our-and-twenty elders in white \ 
robes casting their crowns at his feet. It is a perfect daub | 
and might have been designed and executed by a house- 
painter. 

Arrived some time before the Mass commenced and took 
seats nearly in front, for which we paid each two sous to the 
man who came round to collect the rents. A priest appeared 
soon after, announced in a loud voice by the Suisse, who, in a 
livery of black, trimmed with gold lace, and a two-cornered hat, 
preceded him, striking his baton every now and then upon 
the floor and raying, ''Pour les pauvres de la paroisse, s'il 
vous plait." At the left of the altar were seats of crimson 
velvet arranged for the ex-royal family, and carefully dusted 
just before their entrance. Suddenly the people rose and 
stood for a moment, on the tiptoe of expectation, but seated 
themselves again as the rumbling of wheels, which were sup-,. 

[380] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

posed to be those of her Majesty's carriage, proved to be- 
long to an omnibus which passed in front of the church. 
Shortly after, several carriages drove up, and there was 
another general uprising. This time it was not a false alarm, 
and the royal procession came marching down the aisle, pre- 
ceded by the " Suisse" striking his baton and followed by 
one of the dames d'honneur, who led by the hand the Prince 
des Asturias, the Queen's eldest son, who was about ten years 
old. Then came the Queen with the King on her left. After 
these were seated another reinforcement entered; it consisted 
of three little princesses, who might have been of the respec- 
tive ages of eight, six, and four years, all dressed in garnet- 
colored velvet, with white feathers in their hats and white 
scarfs around their necks. They were accompanied by three 

dames d'honneur and the Queen's favorite. Monsieur . 

The little princesses seated themselves with the first-comers, 
while the dames d'honneur took the seats reserved for them 
at the right of the altar, where they were joined by Monsieur 
''Le Favori, " after he had presented the Queen with her 
prayer-book. She received this with a gracious smile and a 
slight inclination of the head. The Queen was dressed in a 
rich silk, the pattern being large bouquets of flowers upon a 
white ground, with a long train and an immense petite tour- 
nure. Instead of a bonnet she wore the Spanish mantilla, 
a sort of veil thrown over her head, very graceful and pretty. 
Mass being over, the priest left, pausing to salute the 
Royal Family and passing out directly after. The Queen did 
not look in the least sad or unhappy, but walked as proudly 
as if the crown of Spain still rested in peace and quietness 
upon her brow. She bestowed a gracious smile and nod in 
our direction as she passed up the aisle, which Monsieur 
returned no less graciously. 

[381] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

On arriving home we had another clandestine coffee in 
Madame 's room, and after Monsieur had smoked une petite 
pipe, he went with us to the Madeleine. It was a magnificent 
day, and the walk there was very agreeable. Found a large 
crowd but went in at a side-entrance which led directly into 
the choir, where fortunately we found near one of the pillars 
a low chair. We were in an excellent position for hearing 
the music, though too far away to hear the sermon, which 
continued at least an hour after our arrival. But we felt 
quite repaid for waiting, for the music was beautiful. The 
grand organ was played. It is said to be the finest in Europe. 

On our way home we waited for Madame, who, with 
Mr. Bingham attended services at a little convent on the 
Avenue de la Beine Hortense, walking up and down on the 
opposite side of the street until the services were finished, 
when they joined us, and we walked home together. We had 
a cake at dinner called a Mocha, a sort of flaky pastry 
covered with frosted foam and flavored with coffee, from 
which it takes its name. It is a competitor with another cake 
of the same class known as the St. Honore, which we had 
some time ago. 

Found it snowing this morning and the ground quite 
white. The walking was so disagreeable that we did not 
attempt a promenade. Studied all the morning. Madame 
received by express from Nice a magnificent bouquet, which 
looked almost as fresh as if the flowers had just been 
gathered. As it was made up entirely for effect, the stems 
being too short to reach the water, we took it to pieces and 
arranged it in sand in two bouquets, each even handsomer 
than the original. Madame wishes now that all her friends 
would call before the flowers fade. 

[382] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Monday, March 29 

Monsieur has two days' vacation this week, only con- 
tinuing our lessons. As we were in the midst of arranging 
the bouquets, he came to give me my lesson and as I could 
not leave them, he said he would go down into the cave to 
finish arranging his wines and come up at five o'clock, when 
I should be ready. Poor Madame is nearly ill with a cold, 
and stiff-neck, occasioned by her putting on her little new 
gray silk last evening, which was thinner than the one she 
had been wearing. She took a transpiration at about three 
o'clock, and called me into her room to see the fire that 
Josephine had built. The grate was heaped up to its utmost 
capacity with burning coals and the heat therefrom was 
something fearful. 

Tuesday, March 30 

Rainy, dull and disagreeable. After cafe took "Les 
Mysteres" etc. and went into the salon to read until our 
room should be in order, while Madame was giving Dr. 
Raymond his German lesson in the salle-a-manger. That 
finished, Angelina came to sew by the window. Presently I 
heard Monsieur's voice, ''Mademoiselle Stanton, venez ici!" 
On entering the salon I found him seated in his corner by the 
poele smoking a petite pipe. After first drawing up a chair 
for me and talking in a general way for some time, he told 
me the story of "Monte Cristo," which occupied all the time 
until dejeuner, so I had only time to learn a fable, a verb, and 
about half a page of grammar before the hour for my 
lesson. If the day had been fine, we were intending to go to 
Malmaison, but the weather does not seem very promising 
and I fear we shall not go there for some time to come if at all. 
After dinner, the gentlemen all went out. Madame worked at 

[383] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

trimming a little opera-hood that she has been knitting, and 
I cut the tassels for her while she told me about "Miss Bob." 

Wednesdaif, March 31 

Studied and read. Monsieur gave me two hours of lesson 
to-day, as he was not obliged to go to Prince Leon's until 
four o'clock. 

This evening ''Miss Bob" came in. She talks French 
very rapidly, but makes a great many mistakes. Seems very 
sprightly and full of life, but is not possessed of too much 
dignity. She gave an amusing account of an adventure she 
met with in going from here to Versailles. She evidently 
thinks herself very fascinating and pretty. Dr. Bernette has 
taken to sneezing at table. Yesterday, just after going 
through the performance, he turned to me and asked if I 
had remarked this new habit of his, thus calling my attention 
to it; so that to-day when the same thing occurred, I could 
not help laughing, especially as he said immediately after, 
"Didn't I tell you so?" The doctor thinks the wine the best 
he ever tasted, and eulogizes it at almost every meal. 

Thursday, April 1 

The day passed with no ^'Foisson d'Avril." The two doc- 
tors and Mr. Bingham, accompanied by Madame, visited the 
Sewers this afternoon. 

After reciting my lesson and finishing a letter, went to 
call on Mrs. Griswold. Met little Annie at the door with her 
waterproof on, and the hood drawn up over her head. She 
looks as fascinating as ever, notwithstanding the " barber "-ous 
operation which she performed the other day on her hair with 
the scissors. It has only changed the style of her beauty, for 
now she looks like a very handsome little boy. Mrs. Griswold 

[384] 






Dr. Bernette 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

read us some letters she had received from her mother who is 
now traveling in Italy, the last being dated at Genoa. She 
writes that the hotels in Kome are so full that it is almost 
impossible to find accommodations at any price, and persons 
so fortunate as to have carriages, sleep in them at night for 
want of better quarters. Annie insisted upon our going in to 
see her little sister, as we started for home. She was in the 
arms of a black nurse and crying at the top of her voice. 
She has grown wonderfully and is now quite a pretty baby. 
Hurried home lest we should be late for dinner, as it was 
already past six. 

On going into the salon I found Dr. Bernette, who had 
returned from the Sewers, having left his companions at dif- 
ferent places on the route, and none of them had yet appeared. 
Mr. Bingham and Dr. Raymond had stopped at the ^'Foire au 
pain d'epice" at La Place du Trone, and Madame had a few 
commissions to attend to before returning. Presently Mon- 
sieur came in and we sat down to dinner, where we were soon 
joined by Madame and Mr. Bingham, the latter bringing a 
long paper-roll containing some nonettes de Dijons, which were 
distributed as dessert. I recognized them at once, notwith- 
standing the new name, as belonging to the same family of 
sweets as the gingerbread we bought last year at St. Cloud, 
the day of our ride with Dr. Mong Shaw Loo, which we gave 
to our cocker, as we could not eat it ourselves. In the evening 
Dr. Burnette received a call from one of his friends, whom 
he took into the salon. Dr. Bernette leaves for London to- 
morrow morning at half-past six and sails for America in the 
Russia the tenth of this month. 

Friday, April 2 
Bright day. Was kept awake nearly all night by the 

[385] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

noise of workmen in the court, and this morning by the stir 
in the house attending Dr. Bernette's departure. "While writ- 
ing my dictee, I nearly fainted away, a performance quite 
uncommon for me. Monsieur looked so scared that I could 
not help laughing when I recovered myself a little. He as- 
sisted me to my room and presently came in with a sugar- 
bowl and a phial of essence of peppermint, judging from the 
taste. He saturated a lump of sugar which he administered, 
saying at the same time it would be good for me. Madame 
was out, and laughed on coming in when Monsieur told her 
of the peppermint, and said that it was Monsieur's sovereign 
remedy for all ills. Monsieur seemed discomposed at her 
mirth and anxiously asked if it did not do me good; he was 
quite triumphant when I said I thought it did. He recom- 
mends me to eat a great deal of beef almost raw, and to drink 
wine without adding water to it. 

Prince Leon dined here and expressed his sorrow on 
shaking hands, that I had been souffrante. I was presently 
established in the big easy-chair with a cushion at my back 
and a tabouret at my feet. After cafe the four gentlemen 
engaged in a game of whist at one table, while Madame and 
I sat at the other. Monsieur Leon from time to time sang 
snatches from the Opera of Faust, in which the others would 
join. He has a remarkably fine voice, and the music was 
really excellent. Madame translated for me a little story from 
the German about "the three rings." Retired early. 

Saturday, April 3 

At cafe this morning Dr. Raymond had a little book, a 
dictionary of the languages of the different tribes of Indians 
in the Territories of the United States. It is called the 
' ' Chinook, ' ' and is a queer sort of jargon composed of French, 

[386] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

English, and Spanish, interspersed with Indian. I was amused 
on looking it over to find that the synonym for America was 
Boston. Madame 's little cotduriere came to try on some 
dresses. Cashmere over-garments are very fashionable, and 
Madame is having a black one made. The flowers in the salon 
are still looking bright and fresh ; the lilies blossom out every 
evening in the rays of the lamplight and look as if just culled. 
After dinner the gentlemen went out. Madame and I worked 
at trimming the little woolen capeline, nearly completing it. 
Much to my surprise and delight she informed me it was for 
me to take to America as a souvenir of Madame Chevalier and 
the pleasant evenings we had spent together working upon it. 
It was also agreed that she is to knit one for herself before I 
go away, that I may have the pleasure of making the tassels. 
Monsieur came in just at this time. I exhibited to him my 
beautiful present, which he insisted upon my trying on. 

Sunday, April 4 

It rained steadily all day long. Madame went to Mass, 
as it is a ^'peche morteV against the Church to be absent from 
Mass on Sunday, but Monsieur thought such a temps de chien 
would warrant his staying in the house. At dejeuner he in- 
formed us that Le Figaro had something in it in reference to 
onr Chapel on the Rue de Berri, but we need not feel bad, as 
Le Figaro had no respect whatever for anything religious, al- 
though it was the most spirituel paper printed. Here he laid 
down his fork and called "Shozephine, cherchez Le Figaro. 
C'est dans ma chambre sur le bureau!" ' ' Shozephine " dis- 
appeared, presently returning and handed it to Monsieur, 
who proceeded to read an item to the effect that last Thurs- 
day evening the minister of the Eglise Protestants de la Rue 

1 [387] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

de Berri gave a little exhibition of the lantern magique, illus- 
trating his travels in Egypt. 

The gentlemen told ns about their visit yesterday to the 
Catacombs, and Monsieur read an account of some one who 
had been discovered robbing graveyards. Mr. Bingham, in 
alluding to a friend of his, recalled him to Monsieur's mind 
by saying, ''the gentleman with whom you spoke English," 
when Monsieur turned to me and said: "I has spock Eenglish 
with the friend of Mees~ter Bing--ham ! ' ' 

Had cafe in the salon after Madame returned from Mass. 
She read a story of Rhineland from an English newspaper; 
during this time Monsieur, who had finished smoking, fell 
asleep and began to snore, utterly oblivious for the first time 
of all French etiquette. In the evening Mr. Bingham brought 
in an article for Monsieur to read from ' ' Molecules, ' ' written 
in English. Nothing daunted, he began the translation, which 
he rendered easily, notwithstanding it was very difficult. 
After an interesting conversation on molecules, the gentle- 
men took their leave. 

Monday, April 5 

Started to hear Monsieur Laboulaye for the last time. 
Arrived much earlier than usual at the College, where we 
found the professor who precedes M. Laboulaye expatiating 
to a very thin audience, which rapidly increased during the 
last fifteen minutes of his discourse, a fact which under the 
circumstances could not have been very flattering to his 
vanity. Met in the omnibus at the Place du Chatelet a lady 
who attends the lectures regularly and who has every appear- 
ance of being a ' ' blue-stocking. ' ' She was accompanied by a 
young lady, tall, stout, and alert-looking, whom I always fancy 

[388] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to be her niece, though I have no idea who she is. Monsieur 
Laboulaye was remarkably spirituel and said nothing more 
malicious than at the opening of his remarks the simple word, 
''Messieurs,'*' as usual. 

Met the Polish lady who greeted us with a nod and a 
smile as we were going out. Visited La Sorhonne, a church 
rebuilt in the sixteenth century, where we saw the tomb of 
Cardinal Richelieu, Christ of the Pillar, and a cenotaph to 
the Due de Richelieu. 

Finding ourselves in the vicinity of the Pantheon and 
St. Etienne du Mont, we entered. To-day is the Fete of 
the Annunciation, and the altars were elaborately decorated 
with flowers, artificial and natural, in the various churches 
we visited. We passed the Ecole des Mines which, next to the 
Polytechnic, is the highest civil school in France. On the Rue 
St. Jacques, passed the institution for the Sotirds Muets, and 
a gin-shop with the remarkable sign, ''Au port Salut." 
Apropos of signs there are some here as droll as those in 
London. For instance : a drygoods establishment on the Fau- 
bourg St. Honore bears in large letters this questionable de- 
vice: ''A LA TBNTATION," probably improvised by some 
infidel who never read the Lord's Prayer; "AU DIABLE A 
QUATRE" — "MYOSOTIS," an establishment of mourning 
goods; ''A LA SAINTE VIERGE"; ''A L 'ENFANT 
JbSUS, ' ' — millinery shops. 
. Went into a pastry-cook's and purchased some 'brioches 

I and other cakes to satisfy the pangs of hunger, after eating 
i which, we continued our church-visiting. St. Jacques du Haut 
\ Pas on the Rue St. Jacques is an unpretentious edifice exter- 
j iorly speaking, but it is nevertheless interesting. The chapels 
to the different saints are very pretty, and the representations 

[389] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

in bas-relief of what is called Les Stations du Chemin de la 
Croix, of which, there are fourteen, are very fine. The Vesper 
service was in progress. The singing was beautiful, performed 
by a choir of boys and priests in white robes. 

The Val de Grace is the church connected with the mili- 
tary hospital of the same name, which accounted for the pres- 
ence of a guard of soldiers at the entrance-gate. We did not 
see the interior to advantage, as the columns under the dome 
were nearly concealed by a temporary staging, owing to some 
repairs that were being made. 

Le Jar din du Luxemhoicrg traversed, we entered St. 
Sulpice, and read in the chapel of the Virgin the account of 
several miracles which had been performed in answer to 
prayers offered there to the Virgin. Our last visit was to ' ' St. 
Germain des Pres" said to be the oldest church in Paris. 
It was built in the eleventh and twelfth centuries from the 
remains of an ancient convent in an adjoining street. In the 
choir are colums which were constructed in the sixth century 
by Childebert I. The effect of the colored columns and the 
ceiling was much like that at St. Denis. The nave and choir 
were beautifully frescoed, their subjects being taken from the 
Old and New Testaments, for instance, ''The Burning Bush," 
''The Passage of the Red Sea," "Jonah leaving the Whale," 
"The Institution of the Lord's Supper." 

Returned to St. Sulpice and took an omnibus with a 
correspondance for the bureau of the Madeleine, where we 
waited until five omnibuses of the Passy et Bourse line passed, 
all bound for "COMPLET," when we wisely concluded that it 
would be unwise to wait any longer, and so made the best of 
our way home on foot, arriving just before dinner, after which 
I was so tired that I retired immediately. 

[390] 



]VIY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Tuesday, April 6 

Did not go out to-day. Eead, studied, and played a game 
of chess in the evening with Mr. Bingham, who was not proof 
against the united efforts of Monsieur and myself. 

Wednesday, April 7 

Worked on the trimming of Madame ^s "capeline" until 
dejeuner, after which went in company with Ellie and Madame 
to visit ^'La Maison des Petit es Soeurs des Pauvres/' The 
poor woman to whom we gave the contributions of the little 
green tirelire last winter has been admitted to this institution 
through Madame 's influence. After a long ride and some 
difficulty in finding the place, we at last arrived. The day 
was bright and beautiful, and the inmates were out walking 
in the garden. It was an odd sight, so many poor women to- 
gether, some decrepit and lame, walking with canes; some 
arm in arm, and others alone, some in caps, some in calico 
hoods of queer patterns. We were directed by the concierge 
to the parloir opposite the lodge of the concierge to await the 
appearance of our protegee. She soon came, an intelligent- 
looking little old woman who had seen better days. She looked 
as neat as possible in her ruffled white cap, and seemed very 
grateful for Madame 's kind attentions. It was not Visitors' 
day, and when Madame asked if we could go over the insti- 
tution, she said she would ask "Notre bonne Mere." She left 
us and after a short absence returned with a pleasant-faced 
woman who greeted us politely, and unhesitatingly accorded 
the permission asked by Madame, saying she would send us 
a "petite soeur" for a guide. While waiting for her, we 
watched the old women, who finally went into the house. 
Madame Dessuie, Madame 's protegee, said they were treated 

[391] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

kindly and made quite comfortable, had enough to eat, though 
she shrugged her shoulders quite expressively when the in- 
quiries went beyond that, as to what they had to eat. How- 
ever, she did not complain and said it was better to be there 
than to have no place. In the winter they had a fire in the 
room where they sat, only on reception days when visitors 
were expected, and consequently they sometimes suffered with 
the cold. They always have for their supper beans or lentils 
and are obliged to go to their rooms at six o'clock and to be 
in bed by seven, even in the summer. Our guide presently 
arrived with a large bunch of keys at her waist. She con- 
ducted us first to the chapel, where some of the sisters in black 
hoods and cloaks were engaged in the Vesper service. We re- 
mained until it was finished, and they passed out, each one 
dipping her finger in the eau henite and crossing herself as 
she left the chapel. Our guide dipped her finger and offered 
it to us, bestowing a most severe look upon me as I passed out 
without accepting the proffered boon. She afterwards re- 
marked to Madame that in the chapel she noticed that we 
were not Catholics; she "saw it in our faces" and expressed 
her horror. Madame apologized for her afterwards, saying 
they were all rather ignorant and looked upon Protestants 
as a sect of horrid monsters. We were taken into a large 
room, the family sitting-room, where the women were sit- 
ting by the tables engaged in patching, darning, mak- 
ing-over clothes, and sewing generally. The room was pleas- 
antly lighted by several windows and looked quite cheerful, 
but the air was exceedingly close, and I was glad to leave. 
In another room a petite soeur was kneeling near the door and 
seemed to be conducting a service, the women saying words 
over after her, while at the same time they sewed or knit. 
She rose and bowed respectfully as we entered, but immedi- 

[392] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

ately resumed her kneeling posture and went on with the 
prayers. The dormitory was the perfection of neatness, with 
comfortable-looking single-beds, each furnished with two pil- 
lows. The beds were arranged along the sides of the room and 
made up with much care. The rooms were pleasant and airy, 
each one adorned with an image of the Sainte Vierge or some 
saint, and a crucifix. The lingerie was arranged in a most 
convenient manner, this being the place where all the linen 
of the establishment was kept. The shelves contained piles of 
white sheets, pillow-cases and towels, all folded carefully and 
numbered. The clean clothes of the inmates are also arranged 
on the shelves, each one having her own number. The beds 
in the Infirmary were covered with white spreads, and looked 
exquisitely neat. Two of them were occupied by sick persons. 
One part of the establishment is devoted to poor old men. 
We were taken into their sitting-room also. Here they seemed 
to be amusing themselves according to their tastes ; some were 
playing cards, and some doing nothing. On either side of the 
house there is a large garden where they take their promenade, 
on one side the men, and on the other the women. The room 
for the aged and infirm women was remarkably cheerful-look- 
ing, and the occupants, some of them sitting in easy-chairs, 
some bolstered up in bed, were employed, if they were able, 
in some light sort of work, sewing or knitting, while they were 
listening to the Vesper service conducted by one of the petites 
soeurs, who was kneeling in their midst. This Institution has 
at present two hundred and thirty inmates who are in charge 
of twenty-one petites soeurs. There are four others of the 
same sort in Paris, all supported by voluntary contributions. 
From here we went to the Blind Asylum, passing on our 
way one of the puits artesiens. We did not accept the invita- 
tion of the concierge at fifty centimes apiece to mount to the 

[393] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO » 

top to obtain the fine view, but contented ourselves with de- 
scending from our carriage and casting our eyes up. We spent 
more than an hour in making the tour of the ' ' Institution des 
Aveugles, ' ' where we were much interested in witnessing the 
various performances of the scholars. First visited the depart- 
ments for the young men and boys. In one room, seated upon 
benches around a table, a dozen or more were engaged in net- 
ting filets of hemp ; most of these occupants were intelligent 
and bright-looking. One of them especially attracted our at- 
tention, and Madame and I went into an enthusiastic admira- 
tion in English of his large and beautiful blue eyes, which he 
now and then raised from his work, and we could hardly realize 
that he was blind, though his face had that dreamy and listen- 
ing expression peculiar to those who are deprived of the sense 
of sight. In another department they were engaged in type- 
setting and composition. One man, a proof-reader, we watched 
a long time, as he manipulated with skilful fingers, each one of 
which seemed possessed of a pair of eyes, the type, reading and 
correcting sentences with wonderful expedition. Everybody 
was busy and all seemed happy. After seeing them weave 
chair-bottoms, make various articles of wood such as napkin- 
rings, small cups, etc., we were taken into a music-room where 
a modern Beethoven performed on the organ to our delight 
and surprise. After thanking him for his music, Madame said 
to him, 

''Vous aimez beaucoup la musique, n'est-ce pas?" while 
he responded with a smile of enthusiasm, 
"Oh, oui, Madame!" 
' ' Cela vous console-t-il un peu ? ' ' 
" Je n'ai pas besoin d'etre console, Madame." 
We passed along several corridors lined on either side 
with small music-rooms, in which one was practicing on 

[394] 



p 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



a violin, another on a piano,, or a melodeon, or a small 
organ, and others npon the violoncello, flute, and other wind- 
instruments. They would feel the raised notes carefully and 
then take up their instruments to practice. In larger music- 
rooms a number of pupils were collected, while a professor 
gave them lessons in reading the notes. There is a handsome 
chapel, beautifully frescoed, which is separated from the 
concert-hall by heavy curtains gracefully arranged between 
stately double columns. On state occasions these are looped 
up, throwing the two chambers into one. In one of the small 
music-rooms a little girl was studying her grammar-lesson. 
Our guide opened the door for us to enter, which we did to 
hear her read her lesson aloud, though the matron suggested 
that we should all adjourn to a large room adjoining, where 
we could hear her to better advantage. She seemed a little 
embarrassed at first and could scarcely read, but soon recov- 
ered her composure. Her fingers glided rapidly over the raised 
lines of her book, which she read glibly. In a large hall nearby 
furnished with benches and tables, the girls were knitting, 
netting, etc., and Madame called my attention to one little girl 
with a face exactly resembling the pictures in Les Mysteres de 
Paris of "le maitre d'ecole." While we were in this room, 
the recreation-bell sounded, and the girls put up their work 
and went to amuse themselves. Through a glass door leading 
into the garden, I saw one little girl crying, while a whole bevy 
of companions had collected around to comfort her. Our final 
visit was to the exposition-room where the things made by the 
scholars are for sale. Madame purchased a pair of worsted 
socks, saying she should have an opportunity to give them to 
some poor child when winter came again. In the courtyard 
of the Asylum is a handsome statue in white marble of Valen- 
tine Hauy, the founder of the institution, teaching a blind 
person how to read. 

[395] . . 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

In the evening we went to the Palais Eoyal with Monsieur 
Chevalier. We walked along admiring the ' ' innumerable num- 
ber" of all sorts of things displayed in the windows. One ob- 
ject peculiarly attractive was an oblong dish, its brim shaped 
obliquely, that is, with the circumference larger at the top. 
The bottom was an oblong porcelain medallion upon which 
was painted a large Arc de Triomphe. The sides were of gilt 
wire-work with every now and then a small medallion-painting 
of some view in Paris, for instance. La Place de la Concorde, 
Le Tour St. Jacques, La Place de la Bastille, La Place du 
Chatelet, etc. We went into a cafe of the Palais Royal, as Mon- 
sieur said it was a place rather amusing to see, and the enter- 
tainments, though perfectly cowime il faut, were not of a 
remarkably high style. It is frequented by the calicots and the 
grisettes. We descended a flight of steps and found ourselves 
in a hall, not very high-posted and furnished with long marble 
tables and benches. At these were seated various couples, talk- 
ing and seeming to enjoy themselves generally. At another end 
of the room was a stage upon which was an orchestra composed 
of blind men ; small theatricals were performed here. We ar- 
rived during an interlude and seated ourselves outside the 
railing-barrier at the table near the desk, where a stout dame 
and a younger person, who might have been her daughter, kept 
the accounts of the establishment. Presently a gargon in a 
white apron and shirt-sleeves came along to see what we would 
take, when Monsieur ordered a glass of beer for himself and 
one of syrup for me. The interlude having ended, the orches- 
tra struck up a dancing-air, and directly a man dressed like 
a wild Indian sprang out from behind the scenes and began 
playing alternately upon two drums, skipping from one to the 
other in a most agile manner. This was an introduction 
to a play which might have been either a tragedy or a comedy, 

[396] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

for we did not stay to see the end. The actors, an uncle, a 
niece, and a lover were dressed in their clothes of tous les 
jours, and performed their parts with much spirit and en- 
thusiasm. We left at about half-past eleven and found the 
rain pouring. Waited some time, hoping to find a carriage, 
but were finally so fortunate as to secure the two places 
vacant in an omnibus, which left us within three minutes' 
walk of home. 

Thursday, April 9 

Instead of taking a lesson, I went to purchase some books, 
under the escort of good Monsieur Chevalier, who in his 
capacity of "professeur" can obtain them much cheaper. It 
was raining fast, but we started in defiance of the weather, it 
being the only leisure day that Monsieur could count on for 
some time to come. He was in his great overcoat and I in my 
waterproof and a fur collar, each with an umbrella. We 
walked to the extremity of the Avenue Josephine where we 
took an omnibus for the Latin Quarter. Before we arrived, 
the sun came out '4n torrents," and our umbrellas were only 
useful for the shade they afforded, while Monsieur's great-coat 
and my fur collar were superfluous, excepting so far as they 
kept the heat out. We visited several bookstores where Mon- 
sieur searched in vain for a program of a function at which 
the young students aspiring to the title of A. B. were to be 
examined the coming November, his pupil. Prince Leon, being 
one of the number. We found ourselves at last in the large 
wholesale establishment of Hachette et Cie. where we made 
our purchases. We were obliged to search elsewhere for ''Le 
Merite des Femmes" and ''Paris en Amerique," the former 
of which we did not find at all. Purchased some photographs 
of Lamartine, and as it was nearly four o'clock, the hour for 

[397] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Prince Leon's lesson, we took the omnibus home, Monsieur 
Chevalier descending at the point most convenient for him, 
while I rode on to the Rue des Acacias. 

In the evening attended Dr. Robinson's lecture upon his 
travels in Egypt, illustrated by stereopticon views. They were 
very fine, for which I was glad, as Monsieur and Madame 
Chevalier accompanied me. It was a magnificent evening, and 
on arriving home Madame suggested that Monsieur and I 
should improve it by a walk, for she was so tired that she 
wished to go to bed immediately. I waited at the foot of the 
stairs until Monsieur saw her safely up, and then we started 
for the chemist's to order some sort of a mixture prescribed 
for Madame 's rheumatism. Rheumatism is her hete noire. 
She can always tell when there is to be a change in the 
weather by the douleur she feels in her limbs. Monsieur 
thinks it quite convenient to have a barometer in the family. 

Friday, April 9 
Letter day. Spent all the time possible outside my lesson 
in writing and felt relieved at five o'clock to get my letters 
off. Went into Madame 's chamber to sew with her, or rather 
to darn some stockings, she being engaged in the same kind of 
work. Just before dinner Madame de la Yalette arrived. She 
is a pleasant little lady whom I met here several times last 
winter. Monsieur de la Yalette was rather en retard, and we 
were already at the table when he appeared. Prince Leon 
was also here, and it seemed quite like one of the companies 
of last winter. Monsieur de la Valette is a perfect specimen 
of a Frenchman, has heaucoup d' esprit, and consequently it is 
quite as agreeable not to be able to understand all that he says. 
However, he was rather sober and preoccupied this evening 
besides being afflicted with a sore throat and talked compara- 
tively little. 

[398] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Saturday, April 10 

Beautiful day. Did not go out until evening. Read, 
studied and wrote. In the evening, accompanied by Monsieur, 
took another promenade down town. Ran all about for ^'Le 
Merite des Femmes, ' ' which we at last found. Bought a photo- 
graph of Rev. Monsieur Bercier. Monsieur Chevalier told me 
a little of the history of his cousin, Monsieur de la Valette, 
who was here last evening. His father was a French noble- 
man, and he was the eldest son. He inherited a large 
fortune, and lived for several years in the most extravagant 
manner; had an elegant chateau, numerous servants, horses 
and carriages. One day he found that his millions had 
dwindled to thousands, and only a few at that ; so, in his old 
age, for he must be near sixty, he is obliged to work for his 
money. He conducts a journal devoted to agriculture, and 
as he is very talented and possessed of energy and perse- 
verance, he gains a good deal of money. He is now very much 
preoccupied and is using all his influence in trying to obtain 
for a friend of his a certain government offi,ce. As the Emperor 
favors his plans, he has great hopes of succeeding. 

I was very thirsty and expressed a wish for a glass of 
nice cold water. Monsieur said that that simple beverage was 
the most difficult of all to obtain in Paris, and tried to induce 
me to take some wine or coffee or syrup, all of which I refused. 
Finally we entered a sort of restaurant where Monsieur called 
for some water, and a bowl of sugar, which the waiter brought 
with the addition of a tiny bottle of eafw de fleur d' orange for 
each. On tasting the water, I found it warm, and Monsieur 
called the gargcm back to order some ice-water. Monsieur pre- 
pared for himself a glass of sugar and water with a flavoring 
of orange-flower, but he did not tempt me in the least to spoil 

[399] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 



1 



my beverage in the same way. He advised me to put the 
sugar which remained into my pocket, and I followed his 
advice. 

Sunday, April 11 

Had a discussion at dejeuner about whether it is right to 
sacrifice principle to politeness, occasioned by my mentioning 
the severe look bestowed upon me by the '^Petite Soeur de 
Charite" when I refused the ^'eau benite" which she offered 
me. Madame Chevalier and Monsieur seemed to think it would 
have been polite to have accepted it, as it was not necessary 
for me to cross myself. But Mr. Bingham sustained us in the 
opinion that it was better to stop at the first step than to 
advance a little and then stop, and when Madame considered 
it in the light of a principle at stake, she quite approved of 
what we did. I was reminded of a conversation Mademoiselle 
Francine Ducrot and I had on this very subject when in reply 
to my opinion that if principle and politeness were at vari- 
ance the former should rule, and she responded, ' ' That is just 
the difference between an American and a French girl; a 
French girl would always sacrifice principle to politeness. ' ' 

Attended the morning service. Text in Kings 14:9 the 
sixth and last of the Old Testament Parables. It seemed a 
continuation of this morning's conversation at the breakfast- 
table. Mr. Bingham joined us as we were walking home. 
Eemained at home in the afternoon, for it was really uncom- 
fortably hot for walking. 

Monday, April 12 

Went on a shopping expedition to the Petit St. Thomas 
accompanied by Madame Chevalier, and afterwards to the 
dressmaker's. Called at Madame 's milliner's to see about 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

ordering some hats and bonnets. Was quite charmed with the 
''young person," who has beautiful large brown eyes, and is 
decidedly the handsomest French girl I have seen, notwith- 
standing Mademoiselle Francine. 

In the evening finished the trimming for Madame 's hood. 
Dr. Raymond was amusing as usual. He found pulses in the 
ends of our fingers, experimented in sleight of hand, and other 
hand performances which he wound up by a hand-illustration 
of a little ditty: 

''Here's a church, 
And here 's a steeple ; 
Open the door, 
And there 's the people. ' ' 

He went to his room, and the rest of us played whist, 
Monsieur and I against Madame and Mr. Bingham, whom we 
didn't beat! Mr. Bingham afterwards showed us some mys- 
terious tricks with cards, which he had learned in college ! We 
began to think him a real sorcerer until we were initiated into 
the mysteries. 

Tuesday, April 13 

Another lovely day, but rather hot. The promenaders on 
the Champs Elysees sought the shady side, and it was like run- 
ning the gauntlet to pass down the long lines of people seated 
in chairs placed along the avenue. The trees are of that misty, 
dreamy green, where the limbs and branches are as yet very 
vague like the forms of nymphs in mousseline drapery. 
W^alked to the dressmaker's in the Rue de Verneuil, where 
EUie tried on her dress. The dressmaker lives on the cinqui- 
eme etage in a house that in America we should call seven 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 



f|i 



stories high. Here it is only five. She is a little body, and 
all her surroundings seem little, — a little room with a little 
round table in the middle of the floor, a little sofa and little 
chairs. She has, however, quite a large collection of birds, 
which seemed all to be singing and talking at once. Took a 
cab, returning home by the Champs ElysSes, which was filled 
with carriages. 

Arrived at home and found Prince Leon, who dined with 
us. He has recently shown a decision of character which has 
delighted his friends- and made him quite a hero amongst them. 
He received a very flattering invitation from the Empress to be 
present a.t a private Monday evening soiree at the Tuileries. The 
Empress had met him once at a hunting-party, at which time 
she was so much pleased with his appearance that she remem- 
bered him. Monsieur Leon was delighted with the invitation 
and imediately ordered a new suit for the occasion. Saturday 
he dined with a Princess, one of the dames d'Konneur and in 
speaking of the prospective soiree. Prince Leon was convinced 
from some remark of the Princess that he could not accept the 
invitation of the Empress and then refuse invitations from 
persons whom he would meet on that occasion. Should he 
accept them all, he would find himself already a man of the 
world with his studies not yet completed. As he is hoping 
to pass the examinations next November, he heroically resolved 
to forego the pleasure he had anticipated with so much delight, 
until his studies should be completed. The Countess Mniszech 
therefore wrote a letter to the Empress, gracefully declining 
the honor in her son 's name, giving the reasons for his decision, 
and expressing the hope that after his studies should be com- 
pleted, and he should be at liberty to go into the world, her 
Majesty would extend to him her favor. If he passes his 
examinations, he will no longer have need of a Professor, 

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MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

and Monsieur Chevalier will then be free to devote all his 
time to those who board with him. The Count Mniszech ex- 
pressed his wish, in talking with Monsieur, that his son should 
give good attention to his studies, but if Monsieur Chevalier 
could possibly prevent him from passing his examinations, he 
hoped he would do so, as by that means he could keep him 
one year longer a boy at home, instead of his becoming so 
soon a man of the world and rushing into all its excitements 
and pleasures. 

After dinner I went to bed at once, having begged Mad- 
ame to excuse me, for I was too tired to sit up, I left her 
enjoying a cigarette with Mr. Bingham. Monsieur did not 
approve of my retiring so early and tried to tempt me to play 
a game of ''whisk." Some musicians came into the court and 
played a long while, as they were rewarded pecuniarily for 
their efforts by the appreciative auditors in the salon and 
dining-room windows, who smoked and listened and shouted 
''Bravo!" between the scenes. After a long time I awoke 
and could hear through the open windows the whist party in 
the salon talking and laughing, and now and then singing 
snatches from Les gueux, les gueux sont les gens heureux, qui 
s'aiment entre eux, Vive les gueux." ''Berger tu dis que 
notre etoile regie nos jours et hrille aux deux." 

Wednesday, April 14 

A lovely day. At cafe Dr. Raymond came up with his 
hands filled with various literature, among which was a 
"Harper," the "Broadway Magazine," and "Not wisely but 
too well," by the author of "Cometh up as a flower," the 
last of which he especially recommended as worthy of notice. 
He threw them all upon a side-table, saying, "There is some 
reading. Mademoiselle!" The pretty modiste came to try on 

[403] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

some hats and bonnets. While engaged with her we were 
summoned to dejeuner. I was expanding upon the beauty of 
the "young person" when Mr. Bingham inquired of Madame if 
she supposed the young person had been to breakfast; but 
Madame, not comprehending the significance of the question, 
innocently responded in so matter-of-fact a way as to make us 
all laugh. Dr. Raymond then said that he wanted some lace 
for handkerchiefs and inquired if she would be likely to have 
any. After dejeuner she came to finish her commissions. 
Monsieur Chevalier, having given Mr. Bingham his lesson, 
rapped, as usual, on my door to announce that he was ready 
for me. He is suffering from a stye on his eye, and had tied 
a white handkerchief over it ; this he snapped off quickly as he 
popped his head in at the door, seeing there was some one here. 
Madame Chevalier carried a hat into Mr. Bingham's room to 
show him, leaving my door wide open. Mr. Bingham took the 
opportunity to cast a sly glance at the "young person" shortly 
after as he passed out for a walk. He called at the Doctor's 
room on his way down and informed him that that young 
person was about to take her leave ; so he and the doctor started 
out, waiting at the concierge's lodge in order to get a glimpse 
of a sight somewhat rare, a handsome French girl. There are 
many handsome children, but their beauty fades before they 
are grown up. 

Thursday y April 15 

Had no lesson to-day. Monsieur went to Charenton im- 
mediately after dejeuner, having received word from his 
brother who resides there, that his little nephew was very ill. 
Monsieur's eye is very much swollen, pains him a great deal, 
and annoys him very much. Read aloud the story of Gringalet 
et Coupe-en-deux or the ^'Moucheron d'Or'' to Madame. As 

[404] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

I sat in my room reading aloud in Les Mysteres while Madame 
put the trimming on her hood, Dr. Raymond rapped at the 
door and came in to borrow Paris en Amerique. 

In the evening went to the Rue de Berri Chapel to hear 
Dr. Robinson's lecture. The subject was his ''Travels in 
Palestine and the Holy Land, ' ' and the stereopticon illustra- 
tions were very fine. I sat near the machine which was 
tended by Dr. Robinson's "colored gentleman," and had 
some fears lest it might blow up, but no such catastrophe 
happened. We had many different views of Jerusalem. The 
Garden of Gethsemane, and the Mosque of Omar. Madame 
could understand very well what was said and was much 
pleased with the exhibition. The evening was magnificent, 
the sky a deep, dark blue studded with stars, over which 
fioated light fleecy clouds, and the week-old moon hung just 
in the center of one of the arches of the Arc de Triomphe. 
In going home we discussed the question whether great men 
were indebted to circumstances for their greatness, or 
whether they would be great just the same under different 
circumstances ; General Grant for example. 

Friday, April 16 

Chilly. Samu arrived from London, having started yes- 
terday at six o'clock P.M. by the New Haven & Dieppe 
route. He came in upon us just before twelve, while we 
were at dejeuner. The room adjoining ours, which has been 
ready for him ever since Dr. Bernette left, was taken to-day 
by a young gentleman, a Mr. Butler of Detroit, U. S. A., who 
preferred it to any of the others that are vacant. I am glad 
for Madame but sorry for us, as it would have been 
pleasant er to have Samu here instead of in the apartment 
below. However, he has the chamber we had last winter; it 

[405] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

has a natural air, though, some changes have been made in 
the furniture. We have had premonitory symptoms of his 
arrival for some time, for instance, Mr. Bingham found him- 
self using two knives, and to-day at dejeuner, the doctor was 
sporting two forks just before he came. 

Started immediately after dejeuner to attend to our shop- 
ping affairs. We took an open carriage, and as it looked as 
if it might rain on the slightest provocation, we returned first 
to trente-cinq to get Samu's coat, Ellie's cloak, and my water- 
proof. I sat in the carriage, which stopped just opposite a 
cafe while Samu and EUie went in for the things. It is not 
quite convenahle for a lady to sit or ride in an open carriage 
alone, and I was rather annoyed to notice some of the inmates 
of the cafe slyly observing me from behind the window cur- 
tains. When Samu and Ellie finally appeared, Samu said 
that while we had been out, he had had a call from his two 
traveling-companions whose acquaintance he had formed last 
night on the boat: Professor Mitchel of Alton, 111. and Mr. 
Converse of Boston, who leave Paris this evening for a trip 
to Palestine and the Holy Land. Samu was intending to 
call on them on our way to the Bon Marche, but fortunately, 
as we were passing down the Avenue Friedland, we met them 
driving up. The carriages stopped a moment and it Vv^as 
decided that we should continue on our way to the Bon 
Marche and they would follow after, as Professor Mitchell 
also had some shopping to do. We had taken our cocker a 
VheurCy as they had theirs, and ours, taking the lead, drove 
around the longest route possible, no doubt for his own benefit, 
as well as to do a good turn to the jockey who followed after ; 
^'Les gueux, les gueux sont des gens heureux qui s'aiment entre 
eux!" In addition to a long route he united a slow pace, and, 
despairing of ever arriving, we suggested to him that we 

[406] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

should be pleased to have him go a little faster, when he ex- 
pressed his fears that in that case the other would not be 
able to keep up with him. 

Arrived at last, we occupied the next two hours in fol- 
lowing the lead of various calicots to whom we were succes- 
sively consigned. I assisted in buying four flannel shirts for 
Prof. Mitchell, two desstis and two dessous, as he could not 
speak French. Our purchases made, we started for the 
banking-house of Munroe & Co., hoping to find a carriage on 
the way, but performed the distance on foot, as the carriages 
were all gone from that station when we arrived, and there 
were no wandering ones empty. While we were there. Dr. 
Robinson entered, — a very f ortunnate circumstance for 
Rev. Dr. Mitchell who was intending to call on him, but was 
needing the time for something else. After a long conversa- 
tion. Dr. Robinson took his leave, expressing his hope to see 
Mr. Mitchell again on his return to Paris ''and Converse with 
him." 

From here we took carriages home. Professor Mitchell, 
''Converse" and I in a four-seated one and Samu and Ellie 
in a cab. We arrived first and the gentlemen went to Samu's 
room to await his appearance. At the dinner-table met Mr. 
Butler, the new boarder, a handsome young man of about 
'"eighteen summers." Poor Monsieur has a bandage over 
his eye, according to a prescription of Dr. Raymond. His 
nose is such a barrier that to see well he is obliged to turn 
squarely round, and, in attempting to serve me to some wine, 
he held the decanter over my plate instead of over the glass, 
I said something to him which he pretended to understand 
in another way; when Madame suggested that his hearing 
was affected on account of his eye. Monsieur responded with 
a sly look at the doctor in retaliation for something that 

[407] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

gentleman had said just before, lie thought the doctor's 
prescription had had that effect. Adjourned, as usual, to 
the salon, and after a short time retired. Madame had 
finished her hood. 

Saturday f April 17 

Cold and rainy. Spent the day with my brother Samu 
in shopping. Poor Kit had taken a severe cold and was ill in 
bed all day. We took an open carriage a Vheiire from the 
Champs Elysees, and we had the top and boot pulled up to pro- 
tect us from the rain. All the morning until dejeuner was 
devoted to getting Samu fitted to a pair of boots. Two large 
magasins exhausted their treasures in vain; his feet was trop 
petit, but in a third, we were more successful. Our cocker 
waited for us at the door until after we had breakfasted when 
we started again. Went first to the office of Le Journal des 
Demoiselle to change the address, then to La Comipagnie des 
hides where we bought a shawl and some laces for Yina. After- 
wards to the Bon Marche, then to the banker's and finally to an 
English chemists. Called on the Griswolds and arrived home at 
about four o'clock, finding Madame sitting with Ellie. Dear, 
good Madame ! She is just as kind as she can be ! The ' 'Modiste" 
had brought the hats and bonnets. Louey's and mine look 
like frights on the head, but in the hand are pretty and 
elegant. The hats, however, do nicely, and they will try 
again on the bonnets. Was busy with various affairs, the 
washerwoman etc, until I found I had hardly time to dress 
for dinner. Monsieur de la Valette dined with us and spent 
the evening. Mr. Butler, the new boarder, seems well-bred 
and agreeable. Samu took his coffee in the salon with the 
rest, but returned to Ellie and me directly after. At about 
half -past eight I left them with Marie and Josephine who 

[408] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

came in to make the bed, and went into the salon. Found 
everyone there except Mr. Butler, and they were talking about 
concierges, but the subject was soon dropped and we all joined 
in singing a variety of songs, among them a parody of the 
Marseillaise ; as the real words of that song are prohibited : 

"Allons, enfants! a la cuisine; 
Le jour pour boire est arrive !" 

I 

Monsieur de la Valette was not as talkative as usual, 
though when he did speak, his remarks had the effect of 
setting the company into a roar of laughter. He left at about 
ten o'clock, while the rest of us enjoyed the time until after 
eleven in playing ''What is my thought like?" practising 
"Peter Piper" and "Theophilus Thistle," translating it into 
French, much to Madame 's edification, and talking about the 
facilities of writing "shorthand." At Madame 's request I 
read a few passages from my journal. Sat up with Madame 
after the gentlemen had gone to their rooms, until Monsieur 
came home. 

Sunday, April 18 

Ellie is still feverish and unable to sit up. Dressed for 
church, but when it was time to go, the rain was pouring; so 
Samu went alone. In the afternoon attended the Sunday 
School concert. Dr. Robinson delivered a short, extempor- 
aneous sermon on three words beginning with the letter " S, " 
given him by the children in the morning for a text. ' ' Scrip- 
tures, Sin, Satan," exceedingly pointed, practical, and original. 
Dr. Holland officiated in his capacity as superintendent, read- 
ing the hymns from beginning to end. His daughter, a very 
pretty girl of eighteen, sat in front of us. Waited after the 

[409] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

service for Samu to speak with Dr. Holland, who expects to be 
in Paris for about two months, and then to go to Germany to 
spend the summer. 

Monday, April 19 

Samu went to the Bois after cafe, and brought home a 
beautiful bouquet of wild-flowers which are now in a vase 
over the fireplace. Spent the afternoon in shopping in com- 
pany with my brother and Madame. Visited the Bon Marche, 
Petit St. Thomas and Bowles & Co., Bankers. Mr. Butler very 
kindly offered to give up his room to Samu. He is very 
gentlemanly and obliging. Went out in the evening with 
Samu, to a shop on the Avenue Wagram to see about getting 
his traveling-bag repaired. There was a man there who 
spoke English so drolly that we were much amused. Went 
down town in an omnibus to see about getting our return 
tickets for London. Visited several bookstores, in one of 
which we saw a beautiful illustrated edition of Beranger for 
eighty francs. 

Tuesday, April 20 

Started for Fontainebleau this morning at seven o 'clock 
in company with Samu, Madame, and Mr. Bingham. The 
morning was rather cloudy, but as I took the precaution to 
carry my ''impermeable," it did not rain. The carriage was 
at the door before we finished cafe, Monsieur having ordered it 
last evening. On our way to the station, Samu and Madame 
got into a discussion in German. Mr. Bingham and I lis- 
tened, but as neither of us understood enough to follow the 
thread of the discourse, we talked English and amused our- 
selves by looking out the window. We passed the ''Hotel de 
rUnivers," a very unpretending sort of public-house, and 

[410] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

noticed a number of others of the same class ; the smaller and 
more insignificant the building, the more sublime and im- 
posing the name. Our route on the chemin de fer lay through 
pleasant fields hedged with green, with picturesque views of 
husbandmen guiding the plow and preparing the soil, of 
cows feeding in the distant meadows, while the clumps of 
trees in their fresh draperies of many-shaded green, looked 
like huge bouquets placed along the way by the hand of 
Dame Nature in honor of the festival of Spring. Our wagon 
seemed to be the "Hub of the Universe" around vv^hich all 
Nature was turning with more or less rapidity according to 
the distance, the circle in our immediate vicinity whirling 
with lightning speed, while far away, near the horizon, 
houses and trees marched with slow and stately dignity. 
Occasional glimpses of the Seine, sometimes beside us, and 
then winding away until it was lost to view, varied the 
beauty of the landscape. For some distance the scenery 
consisted only of a high embankment that hedged us in on 
either hand, the green sides seeming to ascend to the very 
skies. They were covered with yellow^ flowers which 
Madame called "coucou" in French, "himmelschlussenchen" 
in German, which latter, she said meant ''Heaven's little 
kej^s," and then asked what they were called in English 
It seemed a rapid coming-down from ''Heaven's little keys" 
to "cowslips," but cowslips they were, and on the whole I 
think that the best name for them. "Himmelschlussenchen" 
for a cowslip is as sublimely ridiculous as "Hotel of the 
Universe" for a little beer shop! After a ride of an hour 
and a half, the last ten minutes through the Forest, wc 
arrived at the city of Fontainebleau, which is situated in the 
center and contains about ten thousand inhabitants. En- 
gaged a carriage to take us to the Forest, where we spent 

[411] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

more than two hours. The ride was delightful. Mr. Bingham 
and Samu jumped in and out ''ad libitum" as they from 
time to time spied violets and dandelions and various flowers 
with unknown names, and even Madame, in spite of her 
rheumatism, could not resist the temptation to follow their 
example. We looked for champignons but could find none. 
Went to "Napoleon's fort" to which we ascended by means 
of a flight of stone steps, and obtained a fine view of the 
surrounding country, especially of the Forest. 

Descending, we again drove on, Samu occupying the 
footman's place in preference to riding backwards. A stag, 
the only one we saw, startled probably by the sound of the 
carriage wheels, sprang across our path and disappeared 
among the trees. Mr. Bingham found a curious sort of milk- 
weed plant, whose flowers seemed to be leaves of a darker 
green and of a peculiar form. Just as we were descending 
to inspect the flower, we were met by a genius of the Forest 
in the shape of a brown-faced, short, fat woman picturesquely 
dressed in a gay turban and Scotch-plaid gown. She served 
as guide to the visitors who wished for her services, and 
conducted them to different places of interest. Mr. Bingham 
asked her the name of the shrub and she said it was called 
^'Mal aux yeux.^' It was so significant that we threw away 
the branches we had and wiped our hands carefully. 

It is not easy to get lost in the Forest, as here 
and there the rocks and trees are marked, so that if one 
stands with his back against the mark, his face will be turned 
towards the city. However, we engaged the old woman 
leaving our cocker in the road. She took us first to a little 
basin of water under the shade of a rock, and we all drank 
from it. We then looked at some canes, paper-cutters and 
other articles in wood, all made from the trees of the Forest. 

[412] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Mr. Bingham bought a paper-cutter, after which our guide 
conducted us to a huge rock which was suspended in the air, 
resting only upon three points. The genius climbed upon a 
rock and began jumping up and down to show us that the 
very rock would rock, and I felt it "shake unshocked," and 
could not help smiling to see how queer the little guide 
looked as she practiced her gymnastics for our edification. 
After visiting various other rocks whose names were sugges- 
tive of legendary lore, and climbing about until we were 
tired, we were glad to see our carriage waiting for us in the 
road. Dismissed the guide with a small fee, and she 
disappeared at a round trot, her elbows elevated like the 
wings of a chicken, and we were soon on the way to another 
part of the Forest, which we explored until the passing time 
warned us to stay no longer. From our last point of view 
we descried upon the summit of a rock the hat of a sergent- 
de-ville, or rather what Mr. Bingham announced to be the 
hat of the Little Corporal, in a remarkably good state of 
preservation considering its age. 

Drove to the city to a restaurant, very plain in appear- 
ance, but where we were served to an excellent breakfast. 
Mr. Bingham supposed the room to be the same used by 
King Charles I. as a salle-a-manger. Some one suggested 
that the circle of bread in the center of the table was 
the one eaten by him, as there was no end to it. Poor 
Madame, who was almost perishing from hunger, begged 
Samu for a piece of bread, which he positively refused to 
cut, laughing and shaking his head at her plaintive, "S'il 
vous plait un petit morceau de pain." Had she begged in 
German, he would have been less hard-hearted, but her 
French entreaties were lost on him. Mr. Bingham came at 
last to her aid, cutting the bread, and we were each glad of 

[413] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

a piece. Our excellent repast was finished with some deli- 
cious cream-cheese peculiar to Fontainebleau. Our next visit 
was to the Chateau, where we spent the first fifteen minutes 
in feeding the carpe which abound in the lake in the court- 
yard of the palace. One of them is an old blind fellow, 
yellow from age, that has to trust to the chance of having 
something fall into his mouth. It is amusing to watch them 
all struggling and crowding together for the pieces of bread 
we throw to them. Mr. Bingham purchased a gingerbread 
"Napoleon" of the woman v\^ho tends a little stall on the 
bridge. He threw this into the water, and there was for a 
few moments a desperate struggle. The gingrebread Em- 
peror floated tranquilly upon the surface over the noses of 
the cannibal enemies, but finally disappeared, and when he 
again rose to view, he was minus both legs, and it was not 
long ere we saw him no more. 

Our guide appearing at this time, we left the fishes, to 
follow him over the Chateau. It is a queer, rambling old 
pile, most of it having been constructed under Francis I. in 
1547, but additions had been made from time to time by the 
different monarchs, Henry IV., Louis XV., Napoleon I. and 
finally by Louis Philippe. This is a favorite palace of the 
Empress Eugenie, who spends two or three months of every 
summer here. The spot abounds in interesting historical 
associations. It contains five courts. The first one was where 
Napoleon parted from his old guard after his abdication, 
April 20, 1814. It was in this palace that Louis XIV, in 1685, 
signed the "Revocation of the Edict of Nantes," by which, 
in 1598, Henry IV. had granted toleration to the Protestants. 
The dethroned monarch of Spain, Charles IV., was confined 
here several days by the order of Napoleon, and it was here 
the divorce of Napoleon from Josephine took place. In the 

[414] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Salle d' Abdication is shown the table upon which Napoleon 
signed the document by which he resigned his imperial dignity. 
The sleeping-chamber adjoining is in the same condition as 
when occupied by him. The Galerie des Assiettes is so named 
from the porcelain plates that decorate the walls. These 
contain exquisite views of the scenery in and about Fon- 
tainebleau, as well as of other places of interest in the Empire. 

The apartments of the present Empress are magnificent. 
In an ante-room leading to the grand salon, is a large 
oil painting of Eugenie surrounded by her dames d'honneiir, 
which has been so extensively copied and engraved. Just 
under it is a most exquisite bronze statue of an Egyptian 
woman, bearing a pitcher upon her head. The drapery of 
the figure is in onyx-stone of the most beautiful colors. There 
were wonderful and curious Chinese ornaments which we 
had not time to examine, as we wished to return by the half- 
past three train to Paris. In one of the rooms, we encoun- 
tered the Begisseur with eight or ten men, directors, to whom 
he was showing the reparations necessary to be made before 
the arrival of their Majesties for the summer. 

Our ride home was remarkably quiet, as we had a wagon 
all to ourselves and went to sleep. The name FontaineMeau is 
derived from Fontaine-helle-eau. 

Wednesday, April 21 

Went out after dejeuner with Samu to buy books. We 
visited first the Luxembourg Gallery. The two pictures of 
Rosa Bonheur, ''The Hay Making" and a farming scene 
were so true to nature that we stood before them in wonder 
and astonishment, admiration and delight, taking good care 
in the meantime to keep out from under the feet of the oxen. 
Rosa Bonheur received the decoration of the "Legion 

[415] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

d'Honneur" in 1865. We had an amusing search after the 
works of Beranger, entering one bookstore after another 
and leaving with only a new address as a result, given us by 
the proprietors or clerks. We were fortunate in obtaining 
a nice open carriage with two places, conducted by an excel- 
lent cocher and drawn by a spirited horse. Were directed to 
55 Boulevard St. Michel, to which place, after a long ride, we 
did not arrive, as there was no such address. Passed on our 
way some acrobats who were performing their balancing 
acts in the open air, dressed in rainbow colors, and sur- 
rounded by a crowd of spectators. Found at last the books 
we were in search of. They were beautifully bound in red 
with exquisite illustrations. They are designed as a present 
for Monsieur Chevalier, whose kindness has been unbounded 
from the fir^ day of our arrival. We were rather late to 
dinner, but found them all at table, Prince Leon, Mr. Butler, 
Monsieur and Madame Chevalier, and Mr. Bingham, the doctor 
dining out. The last mentioned attends the ball this evening 
at Anson Burlinghame 's on the Champs Ely sees. Com- 
menced a game of whist after dinner. Monsieur Chevalier 
and I against Prince Leon and Mr. Bingham. Had not time 
to finish the game, as Samu and I went to call on Madame 
Ducrot; so Madame Chevalier took my place. Found 
Madame Ducrot and Helene with Madame Chapoteau and 
Juliette and la Mere Topin seated around the table in the 
dining-room, the salon being in a state of partial demolition, 
the chimney torn down, the carpet taken up, and the furni- 
ture covered over. Francine had retired; so we did not see 
her. The "cocotte" came to see me; he also looked very 
dilapidated, having pulled out most of his feathers. Madame 
Ducrot says he can say '^ petit oiseau" which I taught him. 

[416] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Helene talked English with Samu very successfully. They 
have promised to call on us to-morrow, as we shall not leave 
till Monday. Returned home and found Madame Chevalier 
alone. She came into our room and stayed till midnight, 
looking over Ber anger, Monsieur having joined us in the 
meantime. He is not aware that the books are for him, and 
admired them exceedingly and was so absorbed in looking at 
them that Madame 's warning in regard to the lateness of the 
hour fell unheeded upon him, and she turned to me and said, 
''That man is capable of sitting here till nine o'clock to- 
morrow morning with those books." Finally Monsieur 
started up as if the idea had just occurred to him and sug- 
gested to Madame that they were keeping us up, and that 
we no doubt by this time were thinking them very tiresome 
people. He added that he should like to look at the books a 
little more before we went away if we would be so kind as to 
lend them. 

Thursday, April 22 

My brother went with Mr. Butler after cafe to take a 
lesson in velocipede riding, and I spent the morning in receiv- 
ing the calls of the milliner and dressmaker. After dejeuner 
went out with Samu, Ellie, and Madame to finish our shopping 
commissions. Purchased a French dictionary of synonyms. 
The day was lovely, and we took an open carriage. The Jardin 
des Tuileries was filled with people sitting under the trees 
or promenading. As we went up the Champs Elysees it 
seemed as if everybody was there, too. One of the Chinese 
ambassadors in native dress and long pigtail was slowly 
promenading in the shade of the trees and holding a parasol 

[417] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

over his head, while at a respectful distance behind, followed 
a domestic dressed in the same style but less richly. 

At breakfast Dr. Raymond gave us an entertaining 
account of last evening's ball. He talked Chinese with the 
greatest presumption to illustrate the conversation between 
some of the ambassadors and the interpreter. In the even- 
ing, after dinner, we talked of the earthquake in San Fran- 
cisco. Dr. Raymond v\^as there during the last one. He says 
the sensation is exactly what we might imagine a fly to have 
on a horse when the animal shakes his hide to drive it off. 
The city was much damaged, the soil in some places sinking 
two feet. He says it is astonishing to see how quickly such 
an event is forgotten, real estate deteriorating scarcely at all. 
There have been already three shocks, and long before there 
was ever an earthquake at San Francisco, it was prophesied 
that the city would be destroyed by one, and when the first 
shock was felt, people began to think it might be true. The 
shock is preceded a few seconds by a heavy, rumbling sound. 
"One cannot imagine what a terror-stricken feeling that 
rumbling sound gives one," said the doctor. Just then 
Madame Ducrot and her daughters were announced, and I 
went into my room to receive them. They stayed about half 
an hour, after which we returned to the salon, where Mon- 
sieur and I sang some of the songs from Beranger, while 
Samu and Madame looked over an illustrated German book. 

'^Le Petit Homme Gris." 
"II est un petit homme tout habille de gris 
Dans Paris, joufflu comme une pomme. 
Qui sans un sou comptant vit content 
Et dit'moi je m'en ma foi moi je m'en ris 
qu'il est gai, le petit homme gris !" 

[418] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Friday f April 23 

This evening, after cafe, as we were all sitting in the salon, 
Madame suggested that we should have a game of "What is 
your thought like?" So some one thought of a spider, and 
among other resemblances, it was like a needle's eye because 
it "drew a thread after it." Mr. Bingham and the doctor 
who were leagued together, took the responsibility of mak- 
ing extemporaneous rules for the game, and amendments to 
those rules when it came their turn to put them in practice. 
This had the effect of demoralizing the company who de- 
cided to play something else. Mr. Bingham was called on to 
perform some of his sorceries with cards, and he kept us in a 
state of wonder for some time over one little trick, which con- 
sisted of giving an ace to someone, who put it in the center 
of the pack again; after which the pack was shuffled. The 
sorcerer then took the pack carefully in his fingers, and 
after a few mysterious manipulations raised it to his lips, 
blew on it, and then turning it to the eyes of the astonished 
beholders revealed the ace. Like all other things of the sort 
it is easy enough when you know how. In this instance, for 
example, if it is the ace of diamonds that has been "mixed 
up," the sorcerer takes the three-spot of diamonds and 
places it so that it is at the bottom of the pile face down- 
wards, so that by placing his thumbs carefully over the two 
diamonds at the end before he "blows," the middle spot 
seems to be the ace. But it is needless to say, "Things are 
not always what they seem. "Then the doctor gave us some 
puzzles : 

"J'ai traverse Paris sans souliers" 
"Prove that one half of twelve is seven." 

[419] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

There were others but as it was nearly midnight, Mr. 
Bingham pretended that they were beyond his capacity, and 
saying "bon soir" left the room, and it was not long ere we 
followed his example. 

Saturday, April 24 

Spent the afternoon in shopping. Bought photographs 
and stereoscopic views, among them a view of the Avenue de 
1 'Imperatrice, in which figures the Ducrot Mansion. Saw the 
beautiful Angora cat that was a kitten when we were in the 
same shop a year ago. Were a little late home at dinner and 
found them all at the table, and in addition to the usual 
family, a friend of Dr. Raymond, whose father is so rich that 
he counts his money by millions. This gentleman has a sister 
in Paris, in a school under the charge of Rev. Monsieur Bercier. 
He talked with Mr. Butler about the military school at Sing 
Sing, U. S. A. where both he and the doctor had been educated. 
After dinner went out with Samu to see about getting some re- 
turn-tickets to London. We took an open carriage and I 
tried to realize that I was taking my last ride in Paris. 
Drove to I'Hotel de VAthenee where I sat in the carriage 
while Samu called at the residence of an English captain, 
whom he did not find at home. Went into two or three shoe- 
shops on the way to find some "pantoufles" but did not 
succeed. 

Sunday f April 25 

Lovely day. Attended church all day. At noon took 
cafe with Madame in her chamber. Monsieur Chevalier went 
to Chareton to see his brother. The doctor remarked that 
such an expedition for him incurred much risk, as there is an 
asylum there for mad folks. Held a consultation with 

[420] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Madame as to whether her lace shawl or velvet mantle was 
the more appropriate for her to wear to-day. The mantle 
was finally decided upon. She accompanied us on our way 
to the services as far as the Champs Elysees and the last 
view I had of her at that time she was making her way across 
the avenue in the midst of myriads of carriages. Saw Mr. 
Butler at church with his father and mother, Mr. Cyrus W. 
Field was there, too, and stopped a minute to shake hands 
with Samu. We met him years ago in Washington at a 
military review just before our Civil War. As we went out, 
Mr. Thompson, the '^hoop-skirt man" with his wife and 
daughter were just in front of us. Their carriage drove up 
and. Mrs. Thompson with some friends got in, but Mr. 
Thompson and his daughter walked home. His daughter is 
about thirteen, and very handsome, with great black eyes 
and dark hair, just witchy enough looking to give a piquant 
air to her ladylike appearance. Mr. Thompson is at present 
inventing a promenade costume for ladies. It is of felt, all 
in one piece, that is to say, without seam, but is not yet per- 
fected. One would have said that everybody was on the 
Champs Elysees, only they seemed to be everywhere else as 
well. On arriving at the Place d'Etoile, just as we were 
considering whether or not to cross over to the Arc de Tri- 
omphe where a large crowd was waiting, to see the Emperor 
pass on his way from the Bois, whom should we see but 
Madame Chevalier coming toward us. We met her half- 
way, and went with her to wait a few minutes to see if per- 
chance we might have another view of His Majesty; but we 
were not so fortunate, though we saw many elegant 
carriages of modern Dukes, Counts, and Marquises, with now 
and then a sprinkling of old nobility of the aristocratic 

[421] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

Qimrtier de St. Germain of whom Madame highly approves, 
as decidedly convenaUe. On arriving home, we spied a lady 
at the salon-window bowing to Madame, who had no idea 
who she was. At the dinner-table met Madame de la Valette 
and her sister, who had been waiting in the salon for more 
than two hours. What made it rather provoking was that 
Monsieur Chevalier had been sitting quietly in his room all 
this time, quite unaware that the deux dames of whose arrival 
Sho — Shosephine had informed him were his cousins. 
After dinner we had a pleasant conversation with Madame 
de la Valette who told me of French life in the country, the 
patois, etc. 

Monday, April 26 

Beautiful day. Rose at about six o'clock to get things 
ready for packing, and before cafe Samu had accomplished 
wonders in that line, only complaining of having "too much 
room!" I dressed myself for the journey and spent the rest 
of the time in mending gloves and attending to various little 
et ceteras in reference to our ''coming departure." After 
cafe Samu went with Mr. Butler to take another lesson on 
the velocipede, and was gone until breakfast-time. He also 
agreed to go again with Mr. Bingham at half-past one, a 
' ' strategic movement ' ' on the part of Mr. Bingham, who wishes 
to induce him to prolong his visit a few days. Received a most 
provoking piece of information from Monsieur Chevalier, 
namely, that Prince Leon and his father were going to Havre 
and consequently he would have three days ' vacation. He said 
he could go all about with us if we could only stay, which of 
course we could not. Madame ordered dinner for us at half- 
past four, as we were to be at the station at six, and our last 

[422] 






....J 


Place d'Etoile 
Arc de Triomphe 





MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

dinner in Paris was taken with Madame and Monsieur, con- 
sisting of an omelet with jelly poured over it, broiled steak 
with accompanying vegetables, a pudding, confitures and nuts. 
"We rose from the table and put on our hats and gloves, left the 
''Beranger" done up in a package and directed to Monsieur, 
who would find it after we were gone, and a note begging him 
to accept it. Monsieur went with us to the station, Madame 
accompanying us as far as the door of the cab. Were at the 
station some little time before the train left, which we em- 
ployed in promenading up and down a low passageway where 
an old woman was making bouquets of fresh roses and pansies. 
Monsieur stepped before her stall and bought for me the one 
she had just finished, for which she demanded two francs, and 
he ordered another made for Ellie. She was highly delighted 
at the patronage and in order to show her gratitude held up 
a beautiful pensee, which she offered Monsieur at the same 
time expatiating upon its uncommon beauty. But he told 
her to put it into the bouquet and be as expeditious as possible, 
or v/e should be obliged to go without it. 

We were at last seated in the wagon and whirling off to 
E/Ouen. Long after I thought I had taken my last look at 
Paris and had settled down in one corner to realize the idea 
in retrospect, — thinking the dear old Arc de Triomphe 
would never serve me again in the capacity of umbrella in a 
sudden shower, that probably I had looked upon it for the last 
time, when lo ! happening to raise my eyes, I suddenly beheld 
it there in dignified and stately grandeur, quite isolated as 
if it had just stepped outside the gates of the queenly city, 
like a faithful old friend to say ''Adieu" to its tearful 
protegee. * 

[423] ,. . 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

After a pleasant ride of nearly three hours we found our- 
selves 

AT ROUEN. 

On descending from the wagon, whom should we meet 
but Prince Leon, who was in the same train on his way to 
Havre and had stepped out to reconnoitre, as the train stopped 
here for fifteen or twenty minutes. He recommended to us 
two hotels, the Victoria and the Hotel d 'Angleterre, both of 
which were very good. At last the warning whistle sounded, 
and as we shook hands all around, he said in his charming 
English accent, "I do not know Mademoiselle Stanton, when 
I shall see you again, perhaps at Manchester, N. H.," and 
with a graceful bow, he left us. Presently we saw him again 
at the window, lifting his hat as the train passed slowly out of 
the station. After waiting a little, we were conducted to our 
hotel, which was about five minutes' walk from the station. 
Here we were shown into a pretty room with red hangings, 
which was assigned to Ellie and me, while Samu was taken 
to one overlooking a most beautiful garden. After putting our 
bouquets into water to revive their drooping spirits, we set out 
for a promenade to see the city by gaslight, taking a cheerful, 
bright-looking street fronting our hotel, called "Rue de I'lm- 
peratrice." The shops were pleasant and spacious-looking. 
In one Samu purchased a cane; in another some figs; and 
in another, we inquired the price of a graceful little basket 
work-table, a facsimile of one in Madame 's salon, a present 
to her from Prince Leon. We wanted to buy it for Louey, 
but concluded the price, twenty-five to thirty francs, was put 
on for our special benefit, as Americans are supposed to have 
no bottoms in their purses. 

Descending on the right-hand side of the street, we came 

[424] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

to a large tower very much like the Tour St. Jacques in 
Paris, After walking until we were tired, we returned and, 
ordering cafe to be brought up at eight o'clock to-morrow 
morning, went to bed. The rumbling of cabs, and the various 
street noises to which I was unaccustomed, kept me in a state 
of consciousness all night, and I was not sorry to see daylight. 

Tuesday, April 27 

Spent a delightful day in visiting the many places of 
interest in this old city. Immediately after cafe pressed a 
pansy and a rose-bud as souvenirs of my departure from 
Paris, and then started for the church of Le Bon Secours, 
which is picturesquely situated upon the green summit of a 
very high hill overlooking the city. We walked through a 
pretty little park leading from the Rue de I'lmperatrice and 
found ourselves near Saint Ouen, a beautiful church very like 
York Minster. We went in, and a guide took us about and 
expatiated upon the paintings, the architecture, and the won- 
derful perspective from different points. He called our atten- 
tion to two windows of stained glass, circular in shape, but of 
different designs, one the work of a celebrated artist, and the 
other made by his pupil. The work of the pupil was far more 
beautifully designed and executed, which so excited the jeal- 
ousy of the master that he killed him. They are both buried 
in the church, and their monuments were afterwards shown 
to us. 

Our walk to Bon S Scours was tedious in the extreme. We 
did not imagine it to be half so far away, and when we began 
to realize the distance, we had walked too far from the car- 
riage-stations to find a conveyance ; so there was nothing left 
for us but to climb perseveringly on. We should have been 
almost rewarded for our pains, if we had not been so very 

[425] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tired, by the occasional views we obtained of the Seine wind- 
ing along, here and there spanned by a picturesque bridge, its 
banks lined with Lombardy poplars, which are not in them- 
selves remarkably beautiful, but taken in with the landscape 
as a whole, add to its character and beauty. The last quarter 
of a mile before reaching the chapel, we traversed a path bor- 
dered on either side by tall hedges, green and beautiful except 
in some places where caterpillars had made their nests. Samu 
destroyed several, beating them with his cane and scattering 
them thick and fast in all directions. Just before reaching 
the chapel we found ourselves in the midst of a flourishing 
little community of stalls and houtiques furnished with 
wreaths, images, pictures of saints and tapers, besides harm- 
less little menageries of theological beasts and birds, lambs, 
asses, cocks, doves, etc., to say nothing of trinkets and toys 
of a secular nature. The prices (like the situation) were very 
high. Bon Secours is exceedingly like its Parisian sister, La 
Sainte Chapelle. The day was bright, and it is impossible 
to conceive of the effect of the sunlight streaming in through 
the windows of stained glass in all its gorgeous splendor. 
The morning Mass was over, and the altar was covered, but 
one of the priests politely told us that if we wished to see it, 
he would have the covering removed, which was presently 
done, revealing to our eyes a magnificent display of gold and 
gilt quite in keeping with the rest of the edifice. The speaker's 
desk or pulpit was a most elaborate and beautiful specimen 
of carved wood. The back of it seemed of the finest and most 
delicate lace-work carved so openly that the colored light from 
the window behind it was scarcely intercepted. As we stood 
admiring the altar, a priest came round for contributions and 
looked quite disgusted at Samu for giving only a franc. 

Our return v/as accomplished in much less time than it 

[426] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

took us to walk up, from the fact that we found a shorter 
route, and besides, it was downhill. Samu destroyed several 
more caterpillars' nests in the hedges. We all stopped to ad- 
mire a pretty Angora cat, sleeping in the sunshine upon the 
window-sill in one of the little shops. Our notice of the 
animal seemed highly to please the inmates, who were eating 
breakfast at a little table drawn up to the window. One of 
the women gave us quite a history of the cat's life, saying she 
had four kittens whose eyes were not yet open. Were escorted 
down the hill by a polite French dog, a handsome creature 
with a tail like a fox's brush. He trotted on just before, never 
leaving us until we had reached the city, though he frequently 
met friends and acquaintances upon the way. He left us with- 
out even asking for pourhoire, which I am sure he would have 
refused had we offered it. 

Finding ourselves in the vicinity of St. Paul, an old 
church of Eoman architecture, we entered for the purpose of 
resting awhile and being sheltered from the hot rays of the 
sun. Looked in vain for a carriage until we arrived at the 
cab-stand, where we chose from a large number one with no 
vestige of a cocher, excepting a hat which was lying upon the 
floor. We entered and took possession, notwithstanding the 
assurances of the other Jehus of the profession that their car- 
riages were just as good. They said, moreover, that the cocher 
had '^gone to dinner;" some thought he would be back very 
soon, others thought he wouldn't. In the midst of the con- 
flicting opinions, he made his appearance and we engaged him 
''by the hour" until we should have finished the rest of our 
sightseeing. 

First, we drove to our hotel and ordered breakfast, which 
they said should be ready for us in half-an-hour, during which 
time we drove through the Boulevard Jeanne D'Arc to the 

[427] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEAES AGO 

Place de la Pucelle to visit the monument erected on the spot 
where the Maid of Orleans was burned. Near it is the birth- 
plac of Corneille. A rambling old structure stands in the 
place of the original building, which long since went to decay. 
Passed under the Arch of the Tour de la Grande Horloge 
which reminded me of Temple Bar in London. We then went 
to the Palais de Justice visiting the Salle des Assises, the ceil- 
ing of which is most elaborately and beautifully carved, and 
finding we had exceeded our half -hour, returned to the Vic- 
toria to breakfast, our carriage waiting in the meantime at the 
door. 

After consulting a guide-book lent us by our obliging 
hostess, we started for St. Gervais, and on arriving, believed 
at first that we had made a mistake, for we found ourselves 
in the midst of various debris and building materials. We 
concluded to explore the place before quitting, and descend- 
ing from the carriage entered the graveyard. A large bell 
was resting upon the ground, waiting for the completion of 
the belfry. In the church we met a guide, who informed us 
that the present edifice, not yet completed, is the fourth 
church which has been built over the ancient crypt, dating 
back to the third century. It was here that the early Chris- 
tians met in secret to perform their religious rites, and here 
was the altar where the first Mass was celebrated. The 
tombs of the first two Bishops sent to Gaul by the Christians 
at Rome are placed at the side of the chapel. It is lighted 
by means of a windov/ comparatively modern, though sev- 
eral centuries old. In ancient times the crypt was totally 
dark, lighted by candles only during religious ceremonies. 
The early Christians entered by means of a subterranean 
passage, and we by a trap-door communicating with the 
interior of the church. The walls and arches are exactly as 

[428] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

tliey were in the third century, save in one little place where 
repairs were commenced but not continued, as the difficulty 
of demolishing the old wall was too great to be overcome; 
and then again it was wisely decided that the old wall was 
more interesting than the new one. We were taken to the 
rear of the building and shown a part of the old wall of the 
first church, which is still so strong as to serve in the present 
structure. It was left standing when the building was 
destroyed by William the Norman. Were shown the spot 
where the Conqueror died, now one of the chapels belonging 
to the church. We left St. Gervais feeling fully compensated 
for our exertions and proceeded to the Cathedral, passing on 
our way a market where we invested in some oranges. The 
Cathedral we found in no way different from other edifices 
of the same class, more ponderous and less graceful than St. 
Ouen. A large number of boys and girls had assembled and 
were rehearsing the exercises for their ''Premiere Com- 
munion," which would occur two days later, when they 
would take a solemn oath to stand by the Catholic Church 
for all coming time. One of the priests directing them, see- 
ing probably that we were strangers, explained the exercises 
to us, inviting us to be present next Thursday, as then the 
children would have on their fete dresses, and from what we 
saw to-day we could get no adequate idea of the fine effect of 
the real ceremony. We thanked him all the same for his 
courteous invitation, though it was impossible to be present. 
Left Rouen at quarter to five, and had a first-class 
wagon all to ourselves, so large and spacious that it seemed 
quite like a little salon. There were eight windows, four on 
each side, three large sofas and three fauteuils, and an ele- 
gant carpet. We made ourselves quite at home. Samu 
substituted his slippers for his boots, and we all removed our 

[429] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

hats. I settled myself comfortably in one of the fauteuils 
with ''Not Wisely but too Well" to beguile the time. Ar- 
rived at Dieppe after a delightful two hours' ride through 
a most romantic and charming country, which our guide- 
book pronounced a "miniature Switzerland." Proceeded 
directly to the steamer, where we secured berths, and then 
started for a walk on the plage, ordering dinner at a neat little 
restaurant opposite the pier, to be ready on our return. 
Entered the Cathedral on our way, and found some ladies 
busily engaged in decorating an altar in honor of the Sainte 
Vierge to be placed in one of the small chapels. We left 
them unmolested and proceeded down the old street, which 
seemed to me to be a dilapidated caricature of the beautiful 
Rue de Rivoli. It was delightful upon the beach ; the even- 
ing was warm and bright, and we stood and watched the tide 
coming in, disputing inch by inch and foot by foot, surely 
and mightily the land, which hurled back in impotent and 
noisy wrath its rocky missiles. As I watched the progress of 
this mighty battle between ' ' Old Nep ' ' and ' ' Mother Earth, ' ' 
I thought of one of the wise maxims of Monsieur's favorite 
La Fontaine : 

^'Faiience et longeur de temps ■ 

Font plus que force ni que rage.'' ' 

The steamer did not leave until half past two, the tide 
not serving. Dined and went on board at about ten; found 
several ladies and one little girl named Gracie in the cabin. 
The stewardess was busy and obliging, arranging cushions 
and trying to make us comfortable. She consented to 
let me have a clean towel to put over my bed cushion 
upon my promising to use it in the morning for my 

[430] 



MY LIFE IN PARIS FIFTY YEARS AGO 

toilet, as by some mismanagement for which she was not 
responsible the washing had not been sent back before the 
boat left New Haven in the morning. Some of the ladies 
thought having a clean towel to lay their heads on a capital 
idea, and she indulged them in the same way after exacting 
from them a similar promise. The night was beautiful with 
scarcely a ripple on the water, and the stewardess predicted 
a calm voyage, but advised us all to go to sleep before the 
boat should start. I followed her sage counsel, and the 
last sound I heard was the voice of the mamma of ' ' Gracie, ' ' 
the little girl, saying, '' Gracie, you make a noise just like a 
little pig eating your cake," Avhich seemed to amuse Gracie 
mightily. I awoke at about seven and saw a great red sun 
just rolling up from the water and looking boldly in at the 
round porthole at the foot of my berth. The flickering 
shadows of the rippling water danced upon the ceiling, and 
the boat pitched gently over the waves. The stewardess 
said, "I shall not disturb you just yet, for there has a little 
swell come up." I peered over the side of my berth to see 
to whom she was talking and saw a very pale face with a 
washbowl for a companion! I turned away, for the sight 
was almost too much for me. Gracie was flitting about, 
first upon the deck and then down into the cabin to look after 
her mother and her grandmother. After trials upon which 
I will not expand, in the toilet line, we at last found ourselves 
on deck. The boat was delayed on account of the tide, and 
it was nine o'clock before we landed. Once again upon the 
shores of England, my regrets at leaving LA BELLE 
FRANCE vanished into air, and I thought only of the happi- 
ness of being at home again. 



[431] 



1919 

HAMPTON, N. H. 

August 26 

As I have read over the pages of my Journal to prepare 
it for the press, the friends seem to spring into life and I have 
lived again the happy days of long ago. Some I know have 
passed away from this life. I am going to write a letter to 
'^ Monsieur Bobe" who was one of the youngest of the party, 
and he may yet be alive. If he should ever receive the 
'Hramp" letter, after this interim of more than fifty years, 
I am sure he would respond to it at once. We shall see. 

September 4 

Mirabile dictu! The tramp letter reached its destina- 
tion ! And to-day comes a letter from Mr. Robert Olyphant, 
who of course was no little surprised at receiving mine. He 
writes that he is well, and also that his eldest grandchild is 
just about the same age that he himself was when I knevf him 
in Paris. 

Thus endeth my Paris Journal. 



[432] 

















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